Adventure-loving British were the first ones to have explored the valley around the Kunthi river
The valley is nestled in the Nilgiri hills, and is therefore, cut off from the rest of the world. As access is difficult, it remains largely untouched by human interference, and the flora and fauna have enjoyed an unbroken period of evolution over a million years.
Spread across an area of 89.52sq km, the Silent Valley National Park is divided into four divisions – Nilikkal, Sairandhri, Poochipara and Walakkad. The valley was in the eye of a storm when the Kerala State Electricity Board had decided to build a dam across the Kunthi river in the 1970s, to harness its waters for power supply. Environmentalists, including the late Salim Ali, had waged a battle against its construction, which threatened to destroy the rare animal and plant life found in the valley.
ORIENTATION
The park can be reached from its southern part, through Mukkali. On the Anakatti Road, you will see signboards indicating the way to the park. To your left (while driving to Mukkali from Palakkad) is another road on which the Assistant Wildlife Warden’s office, the dormitories and the Inspection Bungalow are located. One has to pay the entry fee at the Wildlife Warden’s office here. This is also where you can get a guide, usually a person from the tribal community. It is compulsory to hire a guide before entering the forest.
After getting the permit, head on the same road to reach the watch-tower at Sairandhri (23km). The first 15-odd km of the road passes through coffee plantations and offers excellent opportunities for birdwatching. At the end of the plantations, there is a lovely viewpoint, from where you can gaze at magnificent mountains to your heart’s content. Down in the bed of the valley, you will be able to see the settlements of the indigenous Mudukar tribe. The watchtower is located at the end of the road; further up there’s an Inspection Bungalow and an Interpretation Centre. A 1.5-km-long walking trail from here leads to a hanging bridge across the Kunthi river; the trail is ideal for a short trek.
Note: Guided trips are run jointly by the forest department and eco-development committees in their vehicles. The four-wheelers ply only up to a point called Sairandhri, which is situated along the buffer zone of the park. No private vehicles are permitted inside the park.
◆ Timings 8.00am–1.00pm Package tour ₹1,750 for 5 pax includes entry fee, a vehicle and two guides Camera Still ₹25; Video ₹300
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Silent Valley is not oriented towards tourism, so there is not much for visitors to do here. A little bit of photography and the occasional sighting of wildlife is all that you can hope for. However, this national park is an ideal destination for those looking to get away from the daily grind of city life and enjoy the tranquil beauty of the forests.
Drive to the watchtower
A drive to the watchtower at Sairandhri is the perfect way to enjoy the beautiful valley. It’s also your best chance to spot deer, langurs, Malabar giant squirrels, birds, and if you are lucky, even a leopard or a herd of elephants. Jeeps run by the forest department will take you to the watchtower and back, at Mukkali. A jeep to the watchtower from Mukkali, including waiting at Sairandhri, will cost Rs. 100 per hour for every additional hour.
Stop the vehicle here, get down and walk till a few points of the drive. Besides the dense flora around you, look for pugmarks of big cats, such as tigers and leopards. Be cautious of leeches, which thrive in plenty here. Carry some salt as antidote.
The watchtower at Sairandhri gives the visitor a panoramic view of the beautiful valley below and some of the peaks of the Nilgiris in the far horizon. The Interpretation Centre near the watchtower has information and photographs about the park. Children will, in particular, love the innovative ‘jungle orchestra’ at the centre, wherein the sound of a particular animal can be reproduced at the press of a button.
Trekking
A short trek of 1.5km from Sairandhri watchtower to Kunthi river is a must-do and needs no special permit. The more adventurous tourists can trek the entire 23-km stretch from Mukkali to Sairandhri, which will take around 5 hours one way. The path is full of leeches and is certainly not for the faint-hearted.
Earlier, there were certain paths chalked out for trekking, such as one along the Kunthi river till Poochapara, which went further up till Walakkad Division and Anginda. However, all trekking is discouraged now.
One is allowed to enter the areas that are otherwise closed for specific research purposes, but even for this, permission has to be sought from the Chief Conservator of Forests in Thiruvananthapuram.
WHERE TO STAY
In Mukkali
The Forest Department Guest House (Tel: 04924-253225, 222056; Tariff: ₹1,000), which also doubles up as the Information Centre, at Mukkali is quite basic but comfortable. This option is recommended only if you wish to stay for more than two days to explore the valley. It was closed and undergoing renovation at the time of going to print.
Tip Don’t forget to pack a safelight in your luggage as you will need it the most here, especially if you decide to explore the village after dark. There are two dormitories (Tariff: ₹150 per person per day) located close by. There are no private resorts or camps near the park
In Palakkad
Palakkad has a few decent hotels, but some of the nicest are outside the town. Sri Chackra International (Tel: 0491-2570901/ 06; Tariff: ₹1,600–3,700) at Krishna Gardens in Chandranagar, is amongst the best. It has 49 rooms, a pool, bar, restaurant, coffee shop, health club and an Ayurvedic centre. Their Rice Bowl Restaurant serves amazing seafood. They also offer package tours to Palakkad’s several tourist spots, including the peacock sanc-tuary at Mayiladumpara.
Kanoos East Fort Resort (Tel: 2532507, 2526935/ 47; Tariff: ₹560–900) at Fort Maidan is a good budget hotel with 23 rooms and a restaurant. Kairali Towers (Tel: 2547174-77; Tariff: ₹700–2,000) offers 20 rooms, a restaurant and a travel desk on Coimbatore Road, near IG Stadium. Kapilavasthu (Tel: 2515897-98; Tariff: ₹775–1,800) is near the KSRTC Bus Stand on Shoranur Road, and has 26 rooms, a restaurant and travel desk. Fort Palace Hotel (Tel: 2534621/ 24; Tariff: ₹1,500–3,750) has 19 rooms on West Fort Road, in the centre of town. Hotel Ambadi (Tel: 2531244, 2532244; Tariff: ₹900–1,500) with 15 rooms is located opposite the Telephone Exchange on TB Road. It is a well-reputed hotel.
WHERE TO EAT
The Forest Guest House at Mukkali doesn’t provide food, so you will have to head to one of the small teashops nearby for your meal. These little shacks serve very simple food. Hotel Priya, at the T-Junction at Mukkali, serves appams and chutney in the morning. Hotel Haritha, also at the T-junction serves biryani for lunch. Hotel Vinaya, right opposite the Wildlife Warden’s office, serves homely lunch and dinner on prior notice. It’s the right place to have dinner in case you don’t want to walk too far from your guest house. Do remember that all of Mukkali, including telephone booths, shuts down by 8.00pm.
Palakkad, on the other hand, has plenty of options. All the hotels in the town have restaurants that serve everything from local to Chinese cuisine. Hotel Ashok Bhavan on GB Road in Sulthanpet has a reputation that is well-deserved.
GETTING THERE
State Kerala
Location In Palakkad District, in the southwest corner of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve in the Kundali hills
Distance 65km N of Palakkad town, 468km SW of Bengaluru
Route from Bengaluru NH7 to Salem, NH47 to Palakkad via Coimbatore, NH213 to Mannarkad, state road to Mukkali, the entry point of the park
Air Nearest airport: Peelamedu Airport, Coimbatore (125km/ 2.5hrs), is connected to Bengaluru, Mumbai, Chennai, Hyderabad and Kolkata. Taxi to Mukkali via Anakatti/ Agali Road costs ₹10–12 per km; the road is quite rough
Rail Nearest railhead: Palakkad Junction (65km/ 2hrs) is connected to all major cities by daily trains. Taxi to Mukkali costs ₹10–12 per km. From Bengaluru, the best bet would be the Bengaluru-Kanyakumari Express till Palakkad Junction. If you are travelling from Mumbai or Delhi on the Konkan Railway, then Shornur Junction (106km/ 2.5hrs) is the closest railhead. From Mumbai, you can take the Netravati Express, and from Delhi, the Trivandrum Rajdhani. Kerala Express runs daily from Delhi and Alleppey Express from Chennai
Road Mukkali is on the Mannarkad-Anakatti-Coimbatore Road. From Palakkad, take NH213 to Mannarkad (20km) and then the Anakatti Road to Mukkali. Palakkad is connected by a good network of overnight buses from Bengaluru, Chennai and Thiruvananthapuram. You will get direct buses to Mukkali at the Municipal Bus Stand in Palakkad town
FAST FACTS
When to go The park is open all year round but the best time to visit is just after the monsoons, from September– late March. Animal sightings are the best between November–January; the lion-tailed macaque is seen more during these months, as this is the time when a tree, called culinia, flowers. The primates are fond of its flowers and fruits. Many orchids also flower in the valley during this season
Go there for Tropical rainforest, lion-tailed macaques, Nilgiri langur
Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices
Wildlife Warden, Silent Valley NP
Mannarkad PO, Palakkad
Tel: 04924-222056
Email: [email protected]
Assistant Wildlife Warden, Silent Valley National Park
Mukkali PO, Mannarkad
Tel: 253225
Email: [email protected]
STD code 04924
Western Ghats
Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve
Nilgiris
