Continue north on the highway from Mahasena city for another 50 km and you will reach Siddhpur. Here you come across rows and rows of palatial wooden 19th-century townhouses. Painted in muted pastel colours and built three-to-four storeys high, most of them were built by Gujarat’s prosperous mercantile Muslim community. Today, most of the houses remain locked for the better part of the year and present the strangely quiet look of a deserted European town.

Also located in Siddhpur are the enigmatic ruins of Rudra Mahalaya, the remains of a 12th-century temple with tantric overtones.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

There are quite a few good options to stay in Siddhpur. Hotel Anand (Tel: 02767-224786, 224440, Cell: 09638388337; Tariff: ₹800-1,800) on the highway has AC rooms, Internet, a restaurant and an ice-cream parlour. Hotel Marigold (Tel: 292440; Tariff: ₹750-990) near Bindu Sarovar, has AC and non-AC rooms and a multicuisine restaurant. Hotel Milestone (Tel: 220121, 292121, Cell 09825530413; Tariff: ₹850-1,750), also on the highway, offers Internet services and multi-cuisine fare.

When to go October to March Location On the banks of Sarasvati, in northern Gujarat Air Nearest airport: Ahmedabad Rail Nearest rail: Siddhpur