Seraikella, once a princely state, is a largely Oriya-speaking town, which was merged with Odisha after Independence but is now somewhat uncomfortably lodged in Jharkhand. It’s now famous for two things: the Chhau dance and sev laddoos. The Seraikella Palace has always been closely associated with the Chhau dance and not just as patron. Bijoy Pratap Singh Deo – the younger brother of a former king – is a name that recurs. He took an old martial folk form, turned it into a delicate, ballet-like dance with gorgeous masks, and launched Seraikella Chhau on the stages of Europe in the late 1930s.

Try to time your visit to coincide with the Chaitra Parva festival, held annually around Basant Panchami. Though the focus is on Seraikella Chhau, troupes from West Bengal and Odisha are also invited to perform Purulia Chhau and Mayurbhanj Chhau.

Masks in Susanta Mahapatra’s Workshop
Masks in Susanta Mahapatra’s Workshop
Dhiman Bose
Drama and colourful masks in Seraikella Chhau dance performance
Drama and colourful masks in Seraikella Chhau dance performance
Dhiman Bose

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

There are no hotels in Seraikella. One option is to call the Seraikela Chhau Academy (Tel: 06597-234360) and request them to make arrangements. You could also stay in the dharamsala in the bazaar. The Sri Kedar Art Centre is also known to accommodate guests. Else, stay in Jamshedpur. Choices include the upscale Fortune Hotel Centre Point (Tel: 0657-3988444; Tariff: ₹5,750-7,500; W fortune hotels.in) and the Boulevard Hotel (Tel: 2425321-22, 2434411; Tariff: ₹1,550-4,500).

The eateries are basic but the food can be good. For Bengali fish curry-rice, try Ravi Hotel near the main bazaar. Lots of places serve basic vegetarian puris and chhola, and you will get great pakoras around the Durbar Square. Also, don’t miss the famous sev laddoo.

When to go November-March Location 42 km SW of Jamshedpur Air Nearest airport: Ranchi Rail Nearest rail: Jamshedpur