An old rock crumbled under my feet and bounced down the side of Ranthambhore Fort
Leaving the madness, gloom and grime of Mumbai late in the evening, I arrived to the bright light, cold air and red brick of Sawai Madhopur Station the next morning. If all journeys are metaphors, this is an especially poetic one – the scene changing from Maharashtra’s city slums at dusk to the benign open scrub and field of the desert state at dawn. And as I moved out of mobile coverage area, I found myself shedding all urban angst, counting Indian rollers, blue jays, tree pies… and actually noticing three distinct shades of blue in the sky. Once at Sawai Madhopur, the short drive from the station to the park was equally uncreasing; apart from the busy market place at the start of the journey, it was all camel carts, heaps of guavas and that dazzling mirror work on the outfits of Rajasthani women sauntering by.
Once through the main gate, a canopy of trees provided leaf-dappled shade from the harsh desert sun and the air was at least a few degrees cooler. My open-top gypsy added whiplash wind to the experience, and at the ticket counter I was greeted by Ranthambhore’s omnipresent residents – langurs. Scavenging on the leftovers from picnics, screeching for attention, somersaulting, showing-off, swinging from the vines, they landed with unnerving thuds on the tops of tourist buses, and in one case, even urinated to the disgusted delight of an open canter full of school kids.
Ranthambhore is a popular holiday destination and in winter (the best season weather-wise), it is often chock-full of noisy tourists on an obsessive search for tigers, driving through the reserve talking noisily while waiting for an audience with The King. It is hard not to hope for tigers when you’re in Ranthambhore, but there is something tainted about tracking them with walkie-talkies and harassing them with a constant barrage of gawkers.
The trick to getting the most out of the park is to distance yourself from the madding crowd and be satisfied with just breathing the cool air. Everything about the park becomes thrilling then.
On my first day in the park, while watching cormorants dry their wings on a bare tree in the middle of Rajbag Lake, someone in the next vehicle swore they spotted a tiger peeping through the window of a ruin far on the other bank. Everything looks like a tiger when you are desperate to see one, I said, but around the bonfire at Ranthambhore Bagh (a lovely tented accommodation) that night, a photographer confirmed reports of a young tigress hiding her cubs there. The next day, back at the same spot, while a sambar foraged in the water, I watched with stripes on my brain.
About a quarter of an hour later, for no apparent reason, the sambar stumbled out of the lake, antlers festooned with vegetation, and dashed off. The mother tigress had begun her languid amble towards me long before I had noticed her. Making her way across a sliver of land in the water – literally a catwalk across the lake – she stopped a stone’s throw from my parked vehicle, crouched down and began to drink. Close enough to see her whiskers quiver, the slapping of her flat pink tongue against the water was the only sound I heard for what seemed to be an eternity. Finally, she crossed the path in front of us and walked ahead, letting us follow her in our vehicle for at least 20 minutes down the road before disappearing into the foliage (leading us as far away from her cubs as she could). Tigers, my guide informed me, like walking on untarred roads because these are soft on the paws. The road, therefore, made an unlikely place for tiger sightings.
Slightly peeved with the six vehicles blocking the path in front of me the first thing the next morning, I was forced to join the fray waiting for their promised tiger (a tip-off from a forest guard). There was no way any wild animal was going to make an appearance with those many people around, I thought. I was wrong. Not only did the tiger make an appearance, he was on a hunt. Slipping silently into the tall grass just off the road, he crouched, waiting. There was no prey as far as anyone could see, but soon there was a wretched yelp, which was immediately thwarted. A few minutes later, out came the gorgeous predator awkwardly dragging along a chital (almost as big as himself) by the neck. There, right on the road, in full view of a few dozen awestruck homo sapiens, he sat down and half-hidden by the grass, began to feast.
Not all trips to tiger reserves are this rich. Even forest guards don’t see a kill often – tigers are only successful once in 20 tries – and at the end, it’s down to luck. Leaving the park a few days later, as I drove past Rajbag, past Jogi Mahal, past Gomukh, past the soaring cliff-face where eagles nest and leopards hide, past the last racket-tailed drongo and dhok tree, I turned around just in time to see the fort looming like a vision borne of opiate excess. Leaving Ranthambhore is like leaving a vital organ behind. You have to come back for your heart.
ABOUT RANTHAMBHORE NP
Once the hunting grounds of the maharajas of Jaipur, and later of the British, this area, spread over an expanse of 392.5sq km, was declared the Sawai Madhopur Wildlife Sanctuary in 1955. In 1973, it was declared the Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger. An area of 274.5sq km from within the Tiger Reserve was notified as the Ranthambhore National Park in 1980. With the launch of Project Tiger in 1973, the National Park began to be protected in earnest, and as the forest returned to health, aquifers in the area began to replenish, much to the benefit of surrounding villages. Even now, the difference in the ecology inside the park and out side it is staggering. The surrounding areas of Kaila Devi Sanctuary (674sq km), the Sawai Mansingh Sanctuary (127sq km) and the Kualji Close (7.58sq km) were consolidated and added to the park in the year 1992, increasing the expanse of the reserve to 1,174sq km.
The current official count of tigers at Ranthambhore stands at 26. Yet tiger sightings are common as the animals have become fearless of humans. Even then, the tigers continue to fight a battle for survival as the problems of poaching and villagers grazing cattle in the park remain unresolved.
ORIENTATION
The entry point to the national park falls on the Ranthambhore Road, about 10km from the railway station at Sawai Madhopur. The road passes through the Missradara Gate to go to the Ranthambhore Fort, which lies within the precincts of the park. The Ganesh Temple is within the fort, and the Jogi Mahal lies in the vicinity of the fort. The Ranthambhore School of Art, where you can do some shopping, is on the road that leads to the entry gate of the park.
◆Park entry fee Indians ₹130, foreigners ₹870 Vehicle fee Gypsy/ Canter ₹30 Safari fee ₹350 Guide fee ₹30 Cameras Still free, video ₹60; Timings 6.30–10.00am, 2.30–5.30pm (subject to change from time to time, so confirm with the authorities before booking your trip)
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Despite its popularity with tourists, there is something primal about being in and around Ranthambhore. While truckloads of visitors may seem annoying at first, it is, if you can yourself see it that way, what makes the park not an artefact, but rather a real place where ancient ruins, wild nature and contemporary village life make layers of history almost tangible. Don’t miss the fort and wake up early to witness the forest at sunrise.
Tiger Safaris
The highlight of your Ranthambhore experience is the 3.5-hour-long jungle jeep safari for tiger spotting. As no private vehicles are permitted into the park, book a tourist jeep safari well in advance (at least 60 days before), especially in the high season. You can make a booking online at the RTDC office at Hotel Vinayak (Tel: 07462-221333) in Ranthambhore or through your travel agent. Bookings were earlier handled by the Forest Department, but are now done by RTDC. Details such as these tend to change, so get an update when booking your tour. Two jungle safaris a day, which follow certain tourist trails (eight routes for Gypsies, six for Canters), are on offer currently. Jeep movement is monitored to ensure less interference to animal movement in the park. Only 20 Gypsies and 20 Canters are allowed at a time on the routes.
Ranthambhore Fort
This ancient citadel is situated almost exactly at the meeting point of the Vindhya and the Aravalli hill ranges. The fort, after which the national park was named, is thought to have been built in 944 CE. It was occupied by Raja Hamir for many years until the siege by Allauddin Khalji’s army in 1301 forced the Rajput king to surrender. It can be tiring to walk up to the ramparts, but the view of the park and its three lakes from the top is worth all the effort. Locals believe that the mortar used in constructing the magnificent fort was mixed with the blood of brave warriors!
Ganesh Temple
Dedicated to Lord Ganesh, this temple is located inside the Ranthambhore Fort, within the park precincts. The Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations, wherein devotees join in the singing of devotional songs, draw large crowds. Entry to the fort itself is free to allow devotees easy access to the temple. They arrive on Wednesdays and on the chauth of every month.
Jogi Mahal
Located at the foot of the fort, Jogi Mahal is also home to the country’s second largest banyan tree. The Forest Rest House (FRH) at Jogi Mahal offers stunning views of the Padam Talao, which is awash with water lilies. Tourists are not permitted to stay in this rest house.
Ranthambhore School of Art
Situated on the road that leads up to the park, the school is definitely worth a visit. Its wonderful wildlife paintings, many of which feature the tiger in its natural habitat, are created by local artists. The school contributes towards tiger conservation – a great reason to buy here rather than the slightly cheaper paintings you may find elsewhere around the park. Incidentally, close to the railway station is the market place from where you can buy traditional Rajasthani bangles made of glass and lac and knick-knacks for the house.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
There are a plethora of hotels to choose from to fit every budget, most of them scattered along Ranthambhore Road, the long stretch that leads up to the park. Rates vary during the on and off-season, and it is best to book in advance. Many of the hotels include meals in the accommodation package.
Run by the Oberoi chain, Vanya Vilas (Tel: 07462-223999; Tariff: ₹65,000) on Ranthambhore Road is super lavish, with prices to match. Coming back to Vanya Vilas from a drive through the forest is always a bit of a shock. Liveried staff welcome you back with cold, scented towels and the temperature in the luxury tents is always right regardless of the desert outside. Get a massage or work out at the gym, and though you may flinch at their well-tended rolling greens and swimming pool in the midst of drought, the food here is heavenly.
The Aman-i-Khas Resort (Tel: 252052, 252223; Tariff: ₹1,05,000, with meals and safari), has air-conditioned tents designed like Mughal pavilions as well as a spa. It is located close to the park.
The Vivanta by Taj (Tel: 220541; Tariff: ₹23,000–43,000) is a heritage property run by the Taj Group of Hotels. There is a restaurant, bar, swimming pool and travel desk. The hotel also arranges safaris.
Sher Bagh (Tel: 252119-20; Tariff: ₹45,000–85,000) is 3km from the gate in village Sherpur. Run by polo player Jaisal Singh, this fancy set up offers 5-star comforts.
Tiger Den Resort (Delhi Tel: 011-27570446, Cell: 07877796669; Tariff: ₹8,000–9,000, with meals) is 2km from the park on the Ranthambhore Road and has a restaurant, a pool and a souvenir shop. It offers jeep safaris and nature walks. The price includes stay and meals.
Tiger Moon (Tel: 252042; Tariff: ₹8,400, with meals), on Ranthambhore Road, has 36 cottages, a dining hall, wildlife library and swimming pool.
The RTDC-run Castle Jhoomar Baori (Tel: 220495; Tariff: ₹5,600–7,500), formerly a hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Jaipur, is located on top of a hill and has great views of the park. There are 14 rooms and a multi-cuisine restaurant. Rates include all meals and taxes.
Ranthambhore Bagh (Tel: 224251; Tariff: ₹1,400–3,575) has a casual atmosphere and great food. The rooms have basic facilities and are clean and spacious. The tented camp, set in beautifully landscaped gardens is highly recommended. Each comes with electricity and an attached bath.
RTDC’s Hotel Vinayak (Tel: 221333; Tariff: ₹2,600–4,900), on Ranthambhore Road, near Vanya Vilas, has 14 rooms with attached baths. It also has a restaurant, arranges safaris and houses the RTDC Tourist Information Centre, which is functional only in the tourist season.
The Tiger Guru
Anyone who has been to Ranthambhore has heard something about the eccentricity, devotion and passion of Fateh Singh Rathore (1938–2011). He joined the Indian Forest Service in 1960 and spent many years as the Field Director of Ranthambhore. He was one of the few handpicked by Kailash Sankhala, the then director of Project Tiger, to be a part of the first Project Tiger team. Widely acknowledged as a ‘tiger guru’, his knowledge of the striped cat is legendary; he has an uncanny ability to predict where the tigers are and many have witnessed him ‘talk’ to them!
Needless to say, his single-minded drive to protect the park and its wildlife has not always been popular. Once, infuriated at the bar on grazing cattle within the protected area, villagers ambushed Fateh Singh’s vehicle, beat him terribly, and left him for dead. He was soon up and about and continued to defend the reserve, amidst plenty more threats to his life. In 1983, Fateh Singh was awarded the International Valour Award for bravery in the field.
Even after he retired from the service, he continued with his efforts to protect tigers. He started the NGO Tiger Watch in this endeavour. The organisation trained locals in alternative occupations in an attempt to stem poaching and established amenities such as hospitals and schools.
Later in his career, he also photographed tigers – his images were part of a book Tigers: The Secret Life (1990). Just before his death, he received the World Wildlife Fund Lifetime Achievement Award.
GETTING THERE
Rail Nearest railhead: Sawai Madhopur station (15km/ 30mins) is on the Delhi-Mumbai line. Most hotels arrange pick-up/ drop from the railway station. Alternatively, hire a taxi (₹300) or auto (₹100) to your hotel
Road The drive from Jaipur via Tonk and Sawai Madhopur to Ranthambhore is 10km longer than an alternative route via Kanota, Dausa and Lalsot, which is a bad road. Since private vehicles aren’t allowed in the park, it might be better to go by train instead to Sawai Madhopur
Tip If you fly to Jaipur, you can hire a car and drive a couple of hours to Ranthambhore, but a direct train from Delhi, Mumbai or Jaipur is advisable. It’s a lot cheaper as well as less complicated
FAST FACTS
When to go The park is closed from during the monsoons, and open from October to June. November to February is the best time to visit. March, April and May are oppressively hot with the desert ‘loo’ – hot and dry winds that blow during the day – baking everything in its wake. On the upside, the dry summer months allow for some fantastic animal sightings through the bare vegetation
Go there for Tigers
Wildlife/ Forest Dept office
Chief Conservator of Forests/ DFO
Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve
Sawai Madhopur
Cell: 09414043161
Tourist offices
RTDC Tourist Information Centre
Hotel Vinayak, Sawai Madhopur
Tel: 07462-221333
Tourist Information Counter
Railway Station, Sawai Madhopur
Tel: 220808
Note All safaris into the park are now booked online at W rajasthanwildlife.rajasthan.gov.in/wildlife or through the RTDC office in Hotel Vinayak. Book well in advance to avoid disappointment
STD code 07462
State Rajasthan
Location In Sawai Madhopur District
Distance 15km NE of Sawai Madhopur, 201km SE of Jaipur, 457km SW of Delhi
Route from Jaipur NH12 to Tonk via Sanganer; state highway to Ranthambhore via Uniara and Sawai Madhopur Alternative route NH11 to Dausa via Kanota; state highway to Sawai Madhopur via Lalsot route from Delhi NH8 to Jaipur via Dharuhera, Chandwaji and Amer; rest as above
OT Getaway Guides
Rajasthan
Ranthambhore National Park
