Ramgarh’s laden orchards, thickly forested hill-sides and babbling brooks means that the verdant enclave is a favourite with prosperous Delhites who head for their stylish cottages in the area to escape the heat of the summers. After all, the capital is just eight hours away. And never mind if you can’t boast of your own little kothi (bungalow) among the apple trees: there’s plenty to do for the average traveller who wants to cool off in the hills during the sweltering summer months.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Ramgarh itself is a bunch of hamlets spread sparsely across fruit- and forest-laden hill slopes, with a ‘Malla Ramgarh’ on top and a ‘Talla Ramgarh’ at the bottom. A long road meanders from top to bottom. The best way to explore the countryside is to drive a short distance and then walk around through the sleepy hamlets. And if you’re not up to haring around, grab a rug and curl up on a grassy knoll. The only sound that’ll interrupt the peace is the tinkle of cowbells.

Excursions and Picnics

The hills around Ramgarh offer a plethora of picnic spots. Park your car at Gagar, close to Malla Ramgarh bazaar. Hike up through the forests to the old Shiva temple on a hilltop. Drive down to Talla Ramgarh, or, even better, walk down the shortcut paths the locals take and picnic by the stream that runs through the valley. Visit the Aurobindo Ashram while in Talla Ramgarh. Drive past Bhowali, get onto the Almora Road and stop alongside the river near the Khairna Bridge. There are plenty of sandy coves around to spread out your rugs, basket of food, and books to enjoy a picnic.

Angling

Anglers can get a fishing permit for about Rs. 170 per rod per day from the Forest Department’s Office at Ramgarh. Don’t fall for false assurances that a permit is not required. Your best bet is to ask your hotel or camp to make the necessary arrange ments at the time of booking. Your efforts will be rewarded – there is mahseer in the Kalirao and Kosi rivers.

Adventure

There are enough adventure sports at Ramgarh, and trained instructors are available if you are in a large enough group. Prior intimation is required, though, so make sure that you inform your hotel when you book your accommodation. Also get in touch with KMVN in Ramgarh, which will help you find instructors.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The Ramgarh Bungalows (Tel: 05942-281156/ 37, Cell: 094111 08156; Tariff: ₹2,500-7,000), operated by the Neemrana ‘nonhotels’ chain, are beautiful. Food is homely and the jams and other preserves here are great.

Cedar Lodge (Tel: 281154, Delhi Reservations: 011-29551191, Cell: 09811168841; Tariff: ₹5,600-7,700) boasts great views of the Kumaon Himalayas. You can look forward to horse riding, boating in the nearby lakes and long drives through the fragrant forests.

The WelcomHeritage group runs the very charming Taradale Cottage (Tel: 281189, Delhi Tel: 011-46035500; Tariff: ₹12,499-21,499, for 3D/ 2N).

KMVN’s Hill View (Tel: 281155, Cell: 08650002531; Tariff: ₹1,700-2,300) is a good, affordable option.

All the hotels have restaurants and, as a rule, serve good Indian food. You can also try one of the several dhabas in the market.

When to go All year round, except the monsoon months Location At a height of approximately 5,870 ft, this Kumaoni jewel is 14 km ahead of Bhowali Air Nearest airport: Pantnagar Rail Nearest rail: Kathgodam