A frenzied mob of devotees, led by komaram (meaning oracles), clad in red robes, brandishing traditional swords
The oracles, still in trance, walk around the temple three times while the members of their retinue pay tribute inside the sanctum sanctorum; they hurl abuses and profanities at the deity, who, they believe, accepts them with a benign motherly ardour. It is a celebration of raw energy and fierce devotion, an expression of ‘tamasic’ power.
This spectacle is enacted annually at Kodungallur Kurumba Bhagavathy temple in Thrissur District of Kerala during the Bharani festival. Devotees from all over the state attend the festival, which falls between March and April. The festivities start from the Bharani nakshatra (asterism) in the Malayalam month of Kumbham (Aquarius) and last for seven days after the Bharani in the following month of Meenam (Pisces).
History of the temple
The Kodungallur Kurumba Bhagavathy temple—dedicated to Goddess Bhadrakali, the slayer of demon king Daruka—is one of the oldest temples in the state. Situated on the Malabar Coast, Kodungallur was once a port city under the Chera kings of Tamil Nadu and an integral part of their capital Mahodayapuram.
The historical city finds mention in the Ramayana as well as in other ancient texts. In one of them, it is called Muchiri Pattanam. Muchiri (meaning cleft lip in Malayalam) denotes the three branches of the Periyar river, which open into the Arabian Sea at this town. Traders from Rome, Arabia and China used to frequent this port, which was a major maritime trade centre for spices. The Greeks knew this city as Muzris. Christianity entered India through this port and the first mosque in the country, Cheraman Perumal Masjid, is also in this town. Its architecture resembles that of a temple. There was also a flourishing Jewish settlement in Kodungallur, before they moved to Kochi.
The temple is in the middle of a 10-acre plot surrounded by banyan and peepal trees. The sanctum sanctorum faces north. The western chamber of the temple houses Sapthamatruka (seven mothers) who also face north. The idol of Bhadrakali is made of a jackfruit tree. It has eight hands and one of them carries a severed head of Daruka.
Of the many legends associated with the temple, one is that Sage Parasurama, the sixth avatar of Lord Vishnu, built this temple. Another is that the temple was a place of Buddhist worship, which was converted to a Hindu temple after locals abandoned Buddhism. Some historians say it was originally a Shiva temple and the idol of Bhadrakali was installed later. It’s also one amongst the 108 major Shiva temples in the country. According to Tantra traditions, five ‘Sri Chakras’ placed by Shri Shankaracharya here are the source of the powers of Bhadrakali.
Historians also mention that the festival could be an example of Dalit assertion. Long before Dalits were allowed into Kerala temples through the enactment of the Temple Entry Proclamation, the doors of this temple used to be open to them during the Bharani festival.
The Festival
Kodungallur Bharani festival begins with a ritualistic sacrifice of fowls, called ‘kozhikkallu moodal’. This is done to propitiate Kali and her demons. On the Bharani day, a titular king from the erstwhile royal family of Kodungallur is brought to the temple on a decorated palanquin. He unfolds a red silken umbrella – chuvanna pattu kuda – giving his permission for common people to enter the temple. After the royal nod, oracles run around the temple three times with great gusto as they knock the roof of the temple with bamboo sticks. This is the ‘Kaavu Theendal’ ceremony—the main event of the festival.
The legend behind this ceremony is that the demons that fought on Kali’s side converge here to pay obeisance to her. In the past, devotees carried swords instead of bamboo sticks. After this ceremony, devotees seek the blessings of the king. To mark the end of the rituals, the king folds up the silk umbrella and leaves the temple precincts.
Besides Bharani, the other important festival of this temple is the four-day Thalappoli festival celebrated in the lunar month of Makaram (January–February). The festivities begin on the Makara Sankranti day with religious rituals. A grand procession accompanied by caparisoned elephants is held here on this occasion.
Around Kodungallur
The Cheraman Juma Masjid, the first mosque in the country, built in 629 CE during the lifetime of the Prophet, is a great tourist attraction in Kodungallur. This mosque was most likely built by the legendary king Cheraman Perumal, after he converted to Islam. The St Thomas Church is also worth visiting. A sect of Christians believe that the structure was built by the apostle himself. Cheramanparambu and Thiruvanchikulam temples are other famous sites in the city. The Kottappuram Fort, built by the Portuguese, is also worth visiting. Being close to the Malabar Coast, the city also has some beautiful beaches such as Munambam, Kadappuram, Munakkal and Cherai.
Where to Stay & Eat
There are many good hotels and restaurants in Kodungallur. Besides, its proximity to major cities such as Kochi and Thrissur makes it easy for visitors to find accommodation nearby. Here, one can also relish traditional Kerala cuisine.
Sree Kodungallur Bhagavathy Devaswom (Tel: 0480-2803061; Tariff: ₹403–1,688) offers 25 rooms. Seashore Residency (Tel: 2812555, Cell: 08111990891; Tariff: ₹3,500–4,000, penthouse ₹12,000) has 30 rooms, a penthouse, a restaurant, coffee lounge and Internet facility.
Fast Facts
Tourist Office: District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), Palace Road, Chembukkavu, Thrissur (Kerala), Tel: 0480-2320800
dtpcthrissur.com
STD code 048
Getting There
Air Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (31km) is served by both domestic and international carriers. Taxis can be hired at ₹10–12 per km. Waiting charges are extra
Rail Nearest railhead is Irinjalakuda (15km) but Thrissur (35km) is better connected to Kodungallur
Road The coastal highway NH17, linking Kochi and Mumbai, passes through this town Bus State buses linking the city to all other parts of Karnataka stop at Kodungallur’s KSRTC depot. The city has a good network of private buses as well
Kerala
Kodungallur
Kodungallur Bharani
