Harihareshwar: The Pilgrim’s Progress

While most people come to Harihareshwar for its temple, the beach here is quite popular as well. Waves lap at the shore of this Om-shaped stretch of sand so gently that it seems as if you are standing by a lake; and the sea’s magnificence is in full view only from atop the rocks dotting the shore. Near the other end of the beach is the residence of the local deity, the Kalbhairav Temple.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The Kalbhairav Temple is the nucleus of this temple town. Visit the temple in the morning, retreat for a short siesta, and then visit the beach during late afternoon.

The Beach

The long Harihareshwar Beach is deserted on weekdays. Its southern side is tranquil and placid. Although the clear waters look inviting and calm, there are strong undercurrents, which locals will testify to, citing mishaps in the past. Swimming is not advisable.

Stalls line the narrow Temple Road

Bharat Aggarwal

The northern stretch of Harihareshwar Beach sees few tourists on most weekdays. It has a couple of chaat stalls frequented by pilgrims and fishermen. Apart from munching the snacks on offer there and walking on the sand, there’s little else to do here. The sense of isolation is complete on the southern side of the beach, where the black sands and rock formations are usually all yours.

Water World

Harihareshwar Boating Point lies just beyond the MTDC Resort as you descend to the beach. Operating from morning till twilight, and mostly during season time, private entrepreneurs offer scooter and boat rides.

Kalbhairav Temple

The Kalbhairav Temple, consisting of idols of the Hindu Trinity as well as the Goddess Parvati, is shrouded in mystery as far as its year of construction is concerned. However, most believe the first Baijirao Peshwa reconstructed it in 1723. The architecture is fairly simple and the one-storeyed structure is located within a large compound facing the sea.

Visitors at the rocky Harihareshwar Beach

Courtesy MTDC

WHERE TO STAY

The MTDC Resort (Tel: 02147-226036; Tariff: ₹2,100-2,300) located along the beach has Konkani huts set in a bamboo grove. However, their rooms were under renovation at the time of going to print so call them in advance to check.

Harihareshwar Beach Resort (Tel: 226002, 226376; Tariff: ₹2,500-3,500) is located near the Shiva Temple. They have rooms, cottages and a restaurant.

Shiv Sagar Caterers (Tel: 226038, Cell: 09273147421; Tariff: ₹600-2,000) offers airy but modest rooms.

At the beginning of Temple Road is Ganga Nivas (Tel: 226243; Tariff: ₹400-500), a homely stay option. Gokul (Tel: 226439; Tariff: ₹1,400-4,000), opposite Kaatal Lake, has six basic rooms and four airconditioned rooms.

WHERE TO EAT

Considering you’ll have to walk all around Harihareshwar looking for food if you feel hungry after 9.30 pm, you would do well to place your order at a gharghuti (a home serving food) well in advance. The ones situated close to the temple, such as Prachitee, Mohan Kutumbe Restaurant and Kiran Wakankar’s of Mauli Beach Resort, serve only vegetarian food. Shiv Sagar Caterers, close to MTDC, serves Konkani cuisine, and specialises in prawn masala and crab curry. Try the surmai thali at Vishranti Bhojanalaya. The Guru Geeta restaurant offers vegetarian food. MTDC’s Grasshopper Inn, although more pricey than the other joints, serves good food.

When to go Monsoon (June-August) is when Harihareshwar is most green and beautiful, but November-February is best for a beach holiday Location Situated in Raigad District, the temple town of Harihareshwar is set on a low cliff on the Konkan coast where the Savitri river flows into the Arabian Sea, surrounded by the four hills of Harihareshwar, Harshinachal, Bramhadri and Pushpadri Air Nearest airport: Mumbai Rail Nearest rail: Mangaon