Bateshwar: From the Banyan Tree

It is a familiar Indian motif: a temple town embraced by a river and a string of ghats. The town of Bateshwar, not far from Agra (70 km), is exactly that. And yet its relative anonymity has meant that it has retained its character with fewer tourists and more pilgrims, especially during its annual winter cattle fair – 2,000 years old and second only to Bihar’s Sonepur Mela in size. This spiritual town’s name has been derived from the Bateshwarnath Temple that is dedicated to Lord Shiva. According to a legend, it was here under a Banyan tree that Shiva took rest for a while and so this place came to be known as Bat-Ishwar or the Banyan lord.

Of the 40-odd temples that still stand here by the Yamuna, many are unique and vary in splendour, size and vintage, some dating back to the 15th century. Dedicated to Shiva, the crumbling edifices are awaiting restoration.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The UP Tourism Guest House at Bateshwar has rooms (Agra Tel: 0562-2226431; Tariff: ₹300-500) and a dormitory (₹75 a bed). There’s an in-house restaurant but inform them well in advance.

When to go October to March Location On the banks of Yamuna river, between Agra and Etawah Air Nearest airport: Agra Rail Nearest rail: Shikohabad, Agra