Alumkadavu: Sleepy Paradise

Not all destinations offer jawdropping grandeur, awe-inspiring spectacles and heart-pounding excitement. Some offer blessed relief, and the luxury of letting time slip by without the necessity of making every moment amazingly memorable. Alumkadavu offers the ease of being left alone in a quiet celebration of personal space and relaxation. This area, in Kerala’s sleepiest paradise, embodies the peace and tranquility that ubiquitous pictures of boats on the backwaters can only try to communicate. As though joining in the celebration of life in its natural flow, this region is occupied by a number of simple, peaceful little shrines, representing the quieter aspects of God’s own country. The Alumkadavu-Sasthamkotta Lake region in North Kollam particularly urges travellers to take a break from hectic itineraries, and smell the earthy, redolent flavours of incense and coir, of wood on water and gently spiced fish.

The ‘Hugging Saint’, Amma

Prashant Panjiar

THING TO SEE AND DO

The Alumkadavu-Sasthamkotta region represents a way of life rarely seen elsewhere. One of the best ways to experience the tranquil offerings of this region is by vallom, or a small boat, which allows visitors to row past small homes on the banks of the backwaters, past serene churches, and quiet homes, perhaps occasionally surprising a pair of sheepish lovers. The peaceful water has a sense of almost languid contentment, of knowing all’s well with your world. Time spent on these boats can be an elemental and exotic experience for first-time visitors. But for the people who live here, the boats are simply a means of transport to schools, the marketplace and their workplace. Valloms seat up to four people, and the rest of its passengers have to stand. Choosing to embark on one of these boats as a commuter offers the unique prospect of discovering Kerala and her people, not the somewhat more decked out Kerala represented in attractive brochures and prime tourist locations.

Coir-Making at Alumkadavu

Kollam and Alleppey are famous for coir products. One of the more accessible coir-making centres can be found close to the Green Channel Backwater Resort in Alumkadavu. Here, it is possible to witness around ten people working silently at raattus – spinning wheels, not unlike a charkhas – and coaxing coir into ropes by hand.

Visitors experiencing life on a houseboat

Courtesy Kerala Tourism

Dharmasastha Temple and Sasthamkotta Lake

The Dharmsastha Temple is one of the major temples dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. The temple’s roof of corrugated sheets was made in deference to the hordes of monkeys that are its respected guests, who took to playing with the tiles that had been installed originally, used in most traditional temples across Kerala. Another unusual custom here requires devotees to step on what seems to be monkey droppings along the path, as monkeys are said to be dear to the child-god whose idol is housed here. Fortunately, the path is only paved with sand and gravel. The temple is located in the town of Sasthamkotta, right next to the Sasthamkotta Freshwater Lake, the largest freshwater body in Kerala, which provides drinking water to the entire district. Steps lead down from the temple to the lake, though there is no space to sit comfortably for long hours to take in the beautiful expanse of the water surrounded by the hills.

Twin Temples of Cheriazheekal

The Sri Kashi Vishwanathar Temple, also known as the Deccan Kashi Temple, celebrates the legend of a priest who went to Kashi and found a shivalinga while taking a dip in the Ganga. The linga was brought back and installed at this temple. It is also believed that this site originally housed a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It was built around 2,000 years ago and was washed away by the sea before being rebuilt 150 years ago. In an intriguing blend of legends and traditions, the temple as it stands today is dedicated to both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. As a result, Mahashivarathri is celebrated annually for ten days, as grand as the festival of Shri Krishna Jayanti.

Craftsmen making the traditional wooden kettuvallams

Prashant Panjiar

The Vadakkenadayil Bhagavathy Temple is located right opposite the Sri Kashi Vishwanathar Temple, facing west. The original structure, believed to be 1,800 years old, was washed away by the sea. The temple that has come up in its place is only around 13 years old. Legend has it that pilgrims brought idols of Kannagi Devi from the now submerged Chola city of Kaveri Poompattinam off the coast of Tamil Nadu. Her idol is now worshipped here. The ten-day Thottampaattu Festival is celebrated here every year in the second week of May. The festivities include an enactment of Kannagi’s story, as rendered in the ancient Tamil epic Silappattikaram. Another festival that celebrates the legend of Kannagi is the famous Bharani Festival of the Bhagavathy Temple in Kodungalloor.

Azheekal, just a few kilometres away from the Vadakkenadayil Bhagavathy Temple, offers a great view of the coast from a long walkway that stretches into the sea itself. Huge rocks line both sides of the walkway, and the view at the end is spectacular.

The Hugging Saint at Amritapuri

Amritapuri is located about 14 km from Alumkadavu by road, and is also accessible by boat. With the TS Canal Lake on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other, this spot offers an idyllic and picturesque setting for the ashram of spiritual leader Mata Amritanandamayi, also known as Amma, famous around the world for her selfless love and compassion for all beings. Her name itself translates as ‘Mother of Absolute Bliss’. Amma’s teachings are not based on any particular religion and she attracts people from all faiths and corners of the world. Devotees wait in line for hours for a meeting, or darshan, which includes the therapeutic hug, described by Amma as her karma to console those who are sad. As a result, she is known as the ‘hugging saint’.

Façade, Vijaya Castle

Mata Amritanandamayi’s ashram is situated near her birthplace in the fishing village of Parayakadavu, which can be accessed via the Beach Road from Karunagapally across the backwaters, or via boat from Vallickavu. The ashram is a city in itself, with a hospital, a number of buildings for accommodation for devotees and staff, a temple where devotees can meet Amma, and a café that serves food such as banana cashew bread, oatmeal cornflake bars and pizza. Anyone may visit and stay at the ashram with ten days notice. Visitors can participate in ashram activities, such as yoga and meditation. Mass pujas are also conducted. For a darshan of Amma, however, it is advisable to call ahead and make sure she is not on tour.

WHERE TO STAY

In Alumkadavu is Green Channel Backwater Resort (Tel: 0476-2628134; Tariff: ₹ 800-1,500), a small, no-fuss place with double rooms that seem unassuming until you open the door to the verandah. Were it not for the railings, you’d walk right into Ashtamudi Lake. The resort has a two-bedroom house-boat of its own. Their 2D/ 1N package costs ₹16,000 and includes three meals and a cruise on the river. Indoor games like carrom and chess are provided on request.

Sasthamkotta has Vijaya Castle (Tel: 2835348/49; Tariff: ₹2,400-5,500), a deluxe option. It has 25 rooms, an Ayurvedic spa, a multi-cuisine restaurant, bar and book shop.

Hotel Comfort Regency (Tel: 2623888; Tariff:  ₹2,000-4,000) is near the KSRTC bus stand on NH47 in Karunagapally. It has 19 rooms, a restaurant, bar and travel desk. It also arranges boating.

WHERE TO EAT

The local cuisine spoils visitors for choice: crabs, fried lake fish like karimeen, prawns and shellfish (chippi), boiled tapioca typically eaten with spicy fish and beef curry are some of the local specialities. Most resorts and hotels have fairly decent restaurants and cafés. The best of these is the Green Channel Backwater Resort, which has huge spreads of local delicacies every afternoon. Puthiyakkavu, 4 km from Karunagapally, is home to Mother’s, a modest restaurant with excellent offerings.

When to go The season from October to March is the most agreeable, and it is best to avoid the heavy monsoons between June and August Location Alumkadavu is located 4 km from Karunagapally on NH47 along the north Kollam backwaters, 10 km from the Ochira Temple on the Kollam-Alappuzha district border Air Nearest airport: Thiruvananthapuram-Rail Nearest rail: arunagapally, Kollam’s Quilon Junction