It just isn’t possible to talk about Arunachal Pradesh and the Siang River without sounding completely foolish
We were often asked “But why Arunachal?” A strange question indeed, because if you must leave home that is the only place to head for. Reality check. Since Susan’s visit to Daporijo many years ago, I dreamt of this journey and waited patiently for my kids to grow up enough to be left home-alone.
If you look at the topography of the state, its obvious that you can only travel in a north-south (or south-northe) direction. This is because the roads follow the river valleys. With a two week leave of absence granted by members of my household, there was no choice but to decide on just two districts to visit. The three-way tie was between West Siang (following the Siang River as far as possible), Changlang District (to the famed Namdapha National Park) and West Kameng/Tawang (Tawang gompha & Bumla pass) districts. West Siang and Tawang were voted in. But in retrospect, I wish it had been Changlang or the Dibang Valley instead of Tawang.
It is imperative to get an Inner Line Permit from Arunachal Bhavan in Delhi to enter the state. These are valid for a week at a time and need to be renewed at the office of the Development Commisioner at any district headquarter, a fairly time consuming job for which half a day is recommended. In Along, we had the good fortune to ecounter Mr. Pugi Potom Sr.PA to DC, as his all important sign board informed the world. The Inner Line Permit was instituted by the British to keep the tribals in and now keeps the non-tribals out.
Our friend Ravindranath, who works with the Rural Volunteer Centre in Akkajan, provided the all important snippet of information, as told to him by his marwari trader friend, that there existed this magical place. It was fabled, that, in this place with a name worthy of intrigue, caulifowers grew to ten kilos and radishes heavier than you could carry! This tale was enough to decide the course of our travels for the first part of our foray into Arunachal Pradesh. We set course on the road to Mechuka.
Landing in Dibrugarh airport is charming, it felt like the airports of my childhood. The stairs being pushed across the tarmac with no real need for speed, slightly grubby windows and a luggage carousel which made enough noise to drown out any possible conversation. A taxi took us to Bogibeel ghat where we would cross the River Bhramaputra. It was Holi day, but despite active festival participants, no one threw colour or mud on clean-clothed passer’s by. The views approaching the ghat are quite astounding: thousands and thousands of similarly sized river rocks piled way-high and numbered in code. These are being stored to build the new bridge across the Brahmaputra at Bogibeel Ghat. An astounding 9 lakh cu. metres of stone are required at the North bank and 8 lakh cubic metres on the South. As you drive into Arunachal, you see collection sites for these stones and sad and empty river and stream beds. It is a terrifying thought as to what will happen this year, in the monsoons, as colossal volumes of eroded soil are washed down to the plains of Assam.
The Brahmaputra is a truly mighty river. It is extraordinary. It is leaves you speechless. The day was a grey one, making it hard to discern where the horizon met the waters. You can take the bhudbhutti (engine boat) or Fighter or the snazzier gear operated engine boat (the car ferry) which is much more expensive and does not operate so frequently. The bhudbutti was fabulous with a teeny outboard engine and as long as you don’t mind being crowded in with milk cans and chickens, it is definitely the best way to cross this river. The bhudbutti follows the currents and drops off people along the way, taking roughly an hour and a half to get to the other side, depending on the currents. The journey was serene, the sheer volume of water tremendous and what an amazing way to begin our journey.
There are also many smaller river channels that have to be crossed and during the rains the number of these channels increase in number. We had to cross the Tongani rivulet by hath nau, ‘hand boat’ or river raft which is punted manually. These hath nau’s charge upwards of Rs. 10 and are managed by committees and the profits are shared amongst 14 flood affected villages in the area that have lost their agricultural lands due to flooding and sedimentation.
A twenty minute drive took us to the Rural Volunteer Centre at Akkajan, an NGO borne out of the Social Work and Research Centre Tilonia, where we stayed the night. This is also the last place where you can access an internet connection before you enter Arunachal!
It was only here that we were able to lay our hands on detailed maps of the region and understand the constraints of this mountainous terrain. There are very few plains drivers who are capable of handling the roads in the area. It is essential to ensure that your driver has driven in Arunachal before and is somewhat mechanically minded, that the vehicle has a permit for entering the state, and if it’s a taxi, the owner has paid his license fees. The other essentials are a large jerry can for fuel, a spare tyre in good condition and an extra tube. Other than in Along, there are very few places to get a vehicle repaired. The most commonly used form of transport is the Tata-Sumo, and in fact means ‘transport’ in this region.
Silapathar is an ugly market town, 6 km from Akkajan, and it is a good idea to stop here and buy whatever essential provisions you may require for the week ahead. From camera film to music cassettes and rubber slippers to oranges it is all available here.
At Lekabari, you enter the wonder that is Arunachal. Make sure you have a window seat and your camera handy as the views only get better.. The vegetation is dense, untouched and tropical. Banana trees as high as houses and enormous ferns that must pre-date the Jurassic. The climb begins as soon as you cross the border and the first river you see is the Ego. Make sure you give yourself enough time to get anywhere, because if you are anything like us, you need to stop at every river, stream and waterfall. And I promise you, there is one around every single bend in the road.. The water is so clear that each pebble actually gleams. The route takes you past beautiful Adi hamlets such as Bassar. The roads are quite fabulous, meticulously maintained by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) and General Reserve Engineering Force (GREF). The rest of the country has much to learn from them.
Our first night halt was at Along an 8-10 hour drive from Akkajan, a pretty town with a river that runs through it. It hosts a large military presence including the Assam Rifles regional head quarters. Accomodation in the East Siang district is hard to come by and needs to be organized in advance. There is a Circuit House and a PWD bungalow. But on that night, everything was booked up. In desperation we decided to sleep in our Sumo with our wiry Vishwakarma as guard. In a miraculous sort of way, the Assam Rifles Unit gave us a room for the night, seeing two women traveling on their own in this distant land. And we met people who had actually been to Mechuka, we were obviously in the right place!
The next day we set off for Mechuka, armed with new maps and contacts, following the lyrical Siang. If I could write poetry, I would dedicate every verse to that river. If I could sing a song, it would be in deference to the sheer beauty of that river. If the might of the Brahmaputra left us speechless, the extraordinary beauty of the Siang had us totally gobsmacked. The mountainsides beyond Along get even thicker and impenetrable. Even though commercial tree felling has been disallowed there is a fair amount of felling taking place under the guise of slash and burn agriculture, leaving unseemly bald patches scattered across the mountain sides. It will take at least 15 years for these forests to re-generate, but in the meanwhile what will become of the soil is anyone’s guess.
As we neared Tato, our vehicle had a puncture. This turned out to be quite a trial because we did not have the all-important extra tube and traveling further with a damaged tyre was not a good idea. After a long wait and much distress (it was almost 5pm) the GREF came to our rescue by driving a truck over our tyre to loosen it! The night was spent in Tato, in what was the closest thing to a bunker I have slept in, officially known as an Officers Mess. I doubt very much that any officer has ever stayed a night there, but we were very grateful for beds. Beware of the dim-dams, minute flying creatures that cause enormous swelling on any part of the body they find exposed.
When night fell, the roof of our dwelling in Tato turned into the most spectacular planetarium. We were at an elevation of 4,300 ft (1320m) and I am sure I touched the stars that night.
The next morning we were determined to reach Mechuka before mid-day, and set off early. The hillsides turned into enchanted forests with moss covered trees and the first flowering trees we had seen thus far, as the vegetation turned from Tropical to Alpine. And we saw the tantalizing, first snow covered peaks. After a five hour drive, we reached the end of the road, and loaded our bags onto donkeys. I am not sure how to describe the next part of our journey, it’s hazy and dreamlike, which is what it felt like at the time too. We walked for an hour along the most spectacular riverbed, across tiny wooden structures which enabled us to cross streams and as the valley opened up what awaited was astonishing.. A flat table-land at 6,200 ft (1890 m), surrounded in a horse-shoe formation by brown, virtually treeless, hills ringed beyond by the most incredible sight of the snow covered Eastern Himalayas.
The people of Mechuka are the the peaceful, chhang drinking Buddhist Membas. A chance encounter with Bino Lama Naksang was so very appropriate. Bino had returned home after eight years of living in monastries, as a practicing Buddhist monk, and more recently in Oxford where, as a lay-monk, he manages a vegetarian restaurant. Ammi, his mother chatted as though we had always known each other and plied us with many cups of hot chhang. We ate momos at a great little café run by Bino’s cousin and were introduced to his many other cousins along the way. Crossing the jhoolta-hua-bridge was scary to say the least, as it really does swing in great arcs as you walk across it. By the time we walked along the river at sunset, I had already planned as to how I would move my family, how many solar units could be installed at the local school and ways to repair the broken glass at the hostel. I am guilty of having done none thus far.
The following day we walked up to Samten Yongcha, the local gompa, which was basking in the glory of a recent visit from the Dalai Lama. Crossing the jhoolta-hua bridge was scary to say the least, as it really does swing in great arcs as you walk across it. By the time we walked along the river at sunset, I was already working out how I would move my family, how many solar units could be installed at the local school and ways to repair the broken glass at the hostel. That was a year ago, but I’m still dreaming
The information
Getting there
By air: There are no flights directly into Arunachal. But it’s most convenient to fly from Kolkata to any of these cities in Assam — Dibrugarh, Guwahati, Jorhat or Tezpur. (We flew into Dibrugarh.)
To enter Arunachal, the Brahmaputra will have to be crossed – by a bridge at Tezpur and Guwahati or by ferry at other points. From Bogibeel Ghat near Dibrugarh, you can take the bhudbhutti (engine boat) or freighter or the snazzier car ferry, which is much more. The latter also does not operate so frequently.
Permits
All visitors to Arunachal Pradesh need an Inner Line Permit to enter the state. The permit is available from the office of the Resident Commissioner in Arunachal Bhavan in Delhi (011-23013915, 23013956) or the Deputy Resident Commissioners in Kolkata (033-23341243) or Guwahati (0361-2452859), as well as from the Liaison Officers stationed in Shillong, Tezpur, Dibrugarh, Lilabari and Jorhat. The permits are valid for a week at a time and need to be renewed at one of these offices or at any district headquarter. Tthis is a time-consuming job for which setting aside half a day is recommended).
Where to stay
In Along, there’s more than one option for budget accommodation, including the Circuit House and PWD Inspection Bungalow (03783-222232), Hotel Magson (222434) and Holiday Hotel Cottage (222039). Mechuka only has a Circuit House and Inspection Bungalow.
When to go
The region is bet visited between mid-September and mid-December; and again, from mid-March to mid-June.
What to carry
Sleeping bags, sweaters, mosquito repellent and basic medicines.
Tips
The sun rises at least an hour earlier in this region than in the rest of India. Make sure you set out early, around 5.30am, to cover as much ground as possible.
The travel is long and fairly arduous, not particularly recommended for the very young or the elderly.
Hindi is spoken extensively.
The most commonly used form of transport is the Tata-Sumo, and in fact means ‘transport’ in this region.
There are very few plains drivers who are capable of handling the roads in the area. It is essential to ensure that your driver has driven in Arunachal before and is somewhat mechanically minded, that the vehicle has a permit for entering the state, and if it’s a taxi, the owner has paid his licence fees. The other essentials are a large jerry can for fuel, a spare tyre in good condition and an extra tube. Other than in Along, there are very few places to get a vehicle repaired.
Silapathar is an unattractive market town, 6km from Akkajan, but it is a good idea to stop here and buy whatever essential provisions you may require for the week ahead. From camera film to music cassettes and rubber slippers to oranges, it is all available here.
Resources
The following websites are useful when planning a trip to the region:
www.arunachaltourism.com
www.westsiang.nic.in
www.arunachalpradesh.nic.in
www.northeastindiadiary.com
www.jungletravelsindia.com
Brahmaputra River
India
nature
