Pathanamthitta: Pilgrim's Progress

Every year, for centuries, several hundred thousand pilgrims make their way up the sacred slopes of the Sabari Hills to the abode of Ayyappa in Pathanamthitta, passing by the towns of Adoor, Pandalam and Thiruvalla. Yet, few other travellers walked this way, despite the obvious beauty and heritage of these areas, even though visitors are attracted in droves to the neighbouring backwaters formed by the Pamba, Manimala and Achankoil rivers. Pathanamthitta is one of those rare tourist-free zones, just about ready to be discovered.

Those who do venture beyond the backwaters step into a land shaped by antiquity, the only place on Earth where metal mirrors are still painstakingly hand-crafted, and where an entire village practises vaasthu vidya in its purest form as a community. Here lies what some believe is the oldest church in India, built by St Thomas himself. Like the Sabarimala Sanctuary, this church draws hoards of devotees who come together in Asia’s largest Christian gathering, upon a dry river bed not far from the shrine in the month of February.

Kathakali dancer, Sree Vallabha Temple

Prashant Panjiar

The sacred shrine of Sabarimala is located high up in the Ghats in the northeast corner of the district, looking down on the Periyar Sanctuary. Thiruvalla, the biggest town, is located in the northwest corner of the district, near the borders of the Kottayam and Alleppey districts. Thiruvalla, as well as its neighbouring villages, hold some of the finest examples of traditional Travancore architecture and crafts.

The district is home to countless, rich and varied sights – the only temple in Kerala where Kathakali is performed as an offering to the gods, the Garuda Sthambha made of a single block of granite in 57 BCE, a church built in the style of a temple, a temple where menstruation is celebrated and worshipped, the Aranmula metal mirror, a rust resistant hour glass made of a special alloy, and many more – all beautifully protected from the intrusive presence of modern tourism.

THING TO SEE AND DO

With the Sree Vallabha Temple, St Mario’s Orthodox Church, Parthsarthy Temple and Parumala, the first church in India, Pathanamthitta is for a ideal destination for visitors who are spiritually inclined.

Sree Vallabha Temple, lit up at night

Prashant Panjiar

Sree Vallabha Temple, Thiruvalla

The magnificent Sree Vallabha Temple occupies a sprawling complex on the banks of River Manimala in Thiruvalla. Here, visitors will find the Garuda Sthamba, constructed by Kerala’s legendary architect, Perunthachan. The stambha is a unique flag mast made from a single block of granite. Towering over at a height of 54 ft, it also extends 50 ft into the ground, and is crowned by a stone idol of Garuda, the mount, or vahana, of Lord Vishnu. Today, only the very top of the sthamba is visible, encased in a structure built when it was noticed that the sthamba was beginning to tilt.

A beautiful 8-foot-tall idol of Sree Vallabha towers within the sanctum, flanked by another idol of Lord Sudarshana Moorthy. Both these idols are brought out, seated upon giant lumbering elephants, during the processions of the ten-day utsavam in the month of Kumbham (February-March). As many as 12,000 bunches of padatti pazham (a variety of yellow bananas) are offered to the gods on the first day of this festival.

The Sree Vallabha Temple also has the distinction of being the only Indian temple where Kathakali is performed as a daily offering to the gods. Due to the lateness of the hour, there are seldom any witnesses aside from the gods for the performance. However, the dancers always give their best and perform with a passion that is awe-inspiring for whoever watches.

Friendly faces greet visitors at Pathanamthitta

Prashant Panjiar

St. Mario’s Orthodox Church, Niranam

The Niranam Church is one of the oldest churches in India, built in 54 CE and reconstructed four times since. It is counted among the seven-and-a-half churches said to have been established by St. Thomas in Kerala. Within, there are 500-year-old urns, ancient chandeliers and aged brass lamps, which add to the sense of the church’s antiquity and legacy. To truly witness the beauty of the lamps and urns, it is advisable to visit after 3.00pm.

Parumala Church – ‘The First Church in India’

Three kilometres from Niranam on Mavelikara Road lies the Parumala Church. While some people believe that this is the first church in India, the Palayur Church near Guruvayur is widely accepted by most to have that distinction. The Parumala Church does have an air of history, and has been reconstructed several times. The main prayer hall is spacious and full of light. Four massive pillars carry the weight of the entire building, believed to correspond with the four gospels, according to some of the priests here. The church houses the tomb of St Geevarghese Mar Gregorious, the first saint of the Malankara Church, popularly known as Parumala Thirumeni. Lakhs of devotees come here in November to pray to the saint during the feast of St Gregorious.

Perumala Church

Prashant Panjiar

The Goddess of Chengannur

The Chengannur Mahadeva Kshetram offers a stark contrast to the abode of Ayappa in east Pathanamthitta, and indeed to a number of temples across India. Here, rather than being treated with secrecy and disgust, menstruation is deeply celebrated. The goddess at this temple is none other than Parvathy, who shares the sreekovil with her husband, Lord Shiva. It is believed that the goddess was menstruating when she visited Chengannur. Her natural feminine cycle is worshipped at the annual Thripoothe Arattu Festival, where devotees strain to touch the goddess’s pavada. Chengannur is also home to three of five temples believed to have been built in the region by the Pandava brothers from the Mahabharata .

Parthasarathy Temple, Aranmula

The soul of the heritage village of Aranmula is the centuries old Sree Parthasarathy Temple. It is believed that the idol housed within the temple here was carried along the Pamba river and brought here in a raft made with aru (six) pieces of mula (bamboo), leading to the name of this village – Aranmula.

The Parthasarathy Temple is the most important of the five temples believed to have been built by the five Pandava brothers along the banks of the Pamba. Three of these are located in and around Chengannur (mentioned above). This temple is dedicated to Parthasarathy, who is none other than Arjuna’s charioteer, Krishna. It was he who recited the Bhagavad Gita to Arjuna on the battlefield, in the Mahabharata; tradition places their relationship as one of a guru-shishya at times, and one of deep camaraderie and love at others.

Lamps at Parthasarathy Temple

Prashant Panjiar

The great platform on which the temple stands is a testament to the power of the Pamba in the monsoons. Its eastern façade has 18 steps, wide enough for an elephant to climb. Eight beautiful elephants associated with the temple live in the anakottil (elephant stable).

Every year, the Aranmula Vallomkalli Boat Race commemorates the consecration of the 5-ft tall idol, believed to have been installed here 700 years ago, during the month of Chingam (August-September). The day of Lord Krishna’s birth, Ashtamirohini, is also celebrated with great fanfare, concluding with a beautiful snakeboat procession. The annual 10-day Koodiyattam Festival falls in the Malayalam month of Makaram (January-February).

Vasthuvidya Gurukulam, Aranmula

The Vasthuvidya Gurukulam (Tel: 0468-2319740) at Aranmula is an excellent place to learn about vaastu vidya, an ancient Indian science of eco-friendly construction and design that incorporate universal principles of creation. The institute’s art gallery across the road showcases artwork demonstrating age-old techniques used to create murals for temple walls. Prices for the mural paintings start at ₹3,000 per sq ft.

Cottage at Mannaas Veedu

Vijnana Kala Vedi, Aranmula

Louba Schild’s folk art school, set in a building, which is over a century old, is another must-see in Aranmula. All are welcome at this haven for the preservation of artistic traditions, where visitors can enjoy Kathakali, Mohiniattam and Bharatanatyam, percussion and Kalaripayattu performances.

Thekkekudi Cave Temple

Thekkekudi is a beautiful, 50-ft-high rock-cut cave temple dated to the 8th century CE. Built in the Pallava style of architecture, the carvings here are believed to be the earliest specimens of stone sculpture in Kerala.

WHERE TO STAY

Pathanamthitta offers some excellent homestays and hotels. Hotel Hills Park (Tel: 0468-2226262- 63, Cell: 09947399222; Tariff: ₹2,480- 3,600) on Kumbazha Road is a 4-star property. There is a multi-cuisine restaurant, modern AC rooms, forex services, Wi-Fi and ample parking. It is conveniently located for those travelling to Sabarimala, Kinni and Aranmula.

Fried fish at Mannaas Veedu

Heavenly Homestay (Tel: 0469-2682814; Tariff: ₹750-1,000) near the KSRTC stand in Mallapally, 11 km north of Thiruvalla, offers two rooms, home-cooked meals and Ayurvedic treatments. The owners can arrange both backwater cruises as well as sightseeing tours in Pathanamthitta and to most of Kerala’s biggest destinations.

Mannaas Veedu (Tel: 0468-2360399, Cell: 09447601239; Tariff: ₹12,500) is a beautiful homestay in Prakkanam, 8 km from Pathanamthitta town. It offers five rooms, home-cooked meals, visits to rubber plantations and to the big sights of Pathanamthitta District including the elephant camp at Konni. Visitors can learn traditional Kerala cooking here.

Very near the Elephant Cafe in Konni lies the Kutties Residency (Tel: 0468-2242423, 224444; Tariff: ₹1,350-1,800) with modern spacious rooms and suites. There is a multicuisine restaurant and travel desk. The hotel accepts credit cards.

WHERE TO EAT

J-Mart Arabian Restaurant near St Peter’s Junction serves Arabian, Chinese, Mughlai and Keralite cuisine. Khyber Pass Bake and Grill has good ambience and delicious food. The in-house restaurant at Hotel Hills Park and Kutties Residency serve multi-cuisine fare.

When to go February-March is the best time to be here, as most temples in the region have their annual festivals. The period from April to August is quite pleasant as well. Please note that most of Pathanamthitta shuts down for ten-day Onam in August-September. Location Pathanamthitta District is located in south Kerala, flanked by the Western Ghats along its eastern border, and fed by the Pamba, Manimala and Achankoil rivers. Air Nearest airport: Kochi Rail Nearest rail: Thiruvalla