Mapusa (maap being Konkani for ‘measure’) is the capital of Goa’s Bardez Taluka and a trading centre. This was once an agrarian community, where villages worked on community land and shared the profits. Market day was a major event, with goods brought in from every district to one central area.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The city is said to have grown with the blessings of Lord Bodhgeshwar, whose temple stands off NH17. The influx of his devotees further encouraged trade in oil, diyas, fruit, flowers and the ubi quitous coconut. Mapusa has thus been a market town for many centuries.

Friday Market

Today, Mapusa is synonymous with its Friday Market, located outside the Mapusa Municipal Market. Friday sees most housewives from Bardez and Tiswadi descend on the stalls selling a staggering variety of local produce brought in by farmers and small entrepreneurs from all over Goa.

If you are looking for the essence of Goa, this market is a must-see. The place is a riot of colour and noise. Goan women dressed in their colourful best come in from surrounding villages to sell their wares, including spices of all kinds. Fresh fruit, mostly organically grown, is in abundance. Get yourself a string of churis or Goa’s mouthwatering sausages, spiced and marinated in feni. And there’s Goa’s secret ingredient for all those sweet and sour curries – round lumps of seedless tamarind, or amot as it is known locally.

Fresh produce at the Friday market
Fresh produce at the Friday market

The Friday Market winds up by dusk and Mapusa gets back to normal, until the following Friday.

Bodhgeshwar Temple

Whether you see it by night or day, the Bodhgeshwar Temple nestled under a banyan tree is a special sight. Lit up, it glows like a jewel with the night sky above. Bodhgeshwar was a very accessible god who used to sit below the banyan tree around which this small but beautiful temple has been built. Goans of all faiths would come to him with their troubles and he would offer solutions, a tradition that continues into the present. Grateful supplicants from all over Goa flock to this temple for the annual mela, held in the third week of January.

The Hanuman Theatre just across the road from the temple holds local plays – tiatrs in Konkani, nataks in Marathi and performances by visiting troupes from outside Goa. The next ward Cunchelim has quaint houses dating back to Portuguese times.

Mapusa Church

This church is known both as St Jerome’s Church and also as the Church of Our Lady of Milagres, with the Milagres Feast celebrated every third Sunday after Easter. This feast is important to both Hindus and Christians who participate enthusiastically.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Hotel Satyaheera (Tel: 08322262849; Tariff: 1,700-4,500) has a popular rooftop restaurant. Green Park (Tel: 2250667; Tariff: 1,500-2,900) and GTDC’s Mapusa Residency (Tel: 2262794/ 694; Tariff: 850-2,580) are the best hotels.

Bodhgeshwar Temple, lit up at dusk
Bodhgeshwar Temple, lit up at dusk
Tribhuvan Tiwari

The municipal market has Simonia Bakery that serves the best pinagre, dodol, doce and bebinca. Visit St Francis Bakery and Café Aurora for Goan food.

Try Hotel Vrindavan for southIndian food or Moon Light near the Municipal Garden, Ruchira Restaurant, Babaji, a juice and snack bar that also sells packed meals, Bawarchi or the more upmarket Satyaheera, both next to the Hanuman temple.

When to go Late October-February Location At the heart of Bardez Taluka, Mapusa is 13 km north of Panjim Air Nearest airport: Dabolim Rail Nearest rail: Thivim Station

THE INFORMATION

Tourist Offices

Department of Tourism

1st Floor, Paryatan Bhawan

Patto Plaza, Panjim, Goa

Tel: 0832-2494200

W goatoursim.gov.in

Central Reservations Office

GTDCL, 2nd Floor, Paryatan Bhawan

Patto Plaza, Panjim, Goa

Tel: 2437701, 2438002-03, 2438866

GTDCL

Facilitation Counter

Goa Airport, Dabolim

Tel: 2540829, 2540031

W goa-tourism.com

GTDCL

Opposite Municipal Garden

Madgaon. Tel: 2715528, 2715096

GTDCL

Mapusa Residency

Near bus stand

Calangute – Mapusa Raod

Mapusa

Tel: 2262794/ 694

GTDCL

Vasco Residency

Near Railway Station

Vasco

Tel: 251319, 2511002

Mollem NP

Deputy Conservator of Forests

Wildlife and Eco-Tourism, Panjim

Tel: 0832-2229701

W forest.goa.gov.in

STD Code 0832