Daman: In High Spirits

People come to Daman for three main reasons: its beaches, liquor or history. Of beaches, the town has two. If you are at the rocky Devka Beach at sunset, you’ll see the wet, black rocks glow red in the sun’s dying light, while at the quiet Jampore Beach, the sun vanishes quietly. In the dark, the waves wash back to the shore, showering you with sea water, and keeping you from returning to your hotel room.

If you were to pause on the bridge across the Damanganga, between Moti and Nani Daman, you can see colourful fishing vessels moored on either side. A walk through the old town will reveal a plethora of Colonial houses, churches and official buildings. Neither tourism nor the hotel industry has affected the small-town atmosphere of Daman. Its beaches aren’t remarkable or exciting, but time flies by on them rather pleasantly.

BEACH WATCH

Thanks to the sea and three rivers, tiny Daman has a surprisingly large waterfront, of which about 12.5 km qualifies as seafront or ‘beach’. However, the waters are quite unsuitable for watersports, and forget swimming, even taking a dip at Devka is inadvisable as its underwater rocky formations are dangerous. Jampore Beach, on the other hand, is all sand without any slope. At low tide, which is usually from about 10.00 am to 6.00 pm, you will have to walk a mile to get the water up to your knees. But you can rest assured that the sea here is almost free of undercurrents.

Church of Bom Jesus

Punit Paranjpe

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The Damanganga Creek bifurcates the 72 sq km across which Daman spreads into Nani Daman (Little Daman) and Moti Daman (Big Daman). If you arrive from Vapi, the Dabhel Checkpost will be your point of entry into Daman. Ahead is the Nani Daman Market, from where a right turn leads to Devka. The rocky Devka Beach lies about 5 km down the road, and is Daman’s tourist hub, with many hotels.

Nani Daman not only has a large market but also the small St Jerome Fort. The bus stand and the Tourism Department’s office also lie close to the fort. Most of the sightseeing in Daman is concentrated across the Damanganga, in Moti Daman.

Visitors enjoying a camel ride at Devka Beach

Punit Paranjpe

Devka Beach

While you can’t go swimming off Devka Beach, its rocks make a good perch from which to watch the sunset. The swimming here happens in hotel pools and water parks, but wetting the ankles is not all that difficult even on the gritty beach. The Mirasol Water Park at Kadaiya village, 2 km from Devka Beach, is quite popular. It has a wave pool, party grounds, a children’s pool, giant water rides, boating, toy train, a lake-side restaurant, fast-food corner, video games and fountains.

Water Park charges Adults ₹700, children ₹600 Timings 10.30am-6.00pm Tel 0260-2220541

Spend leisurely moments at the pretty Mirasol Lake Garden close by. A bridge connects the two islands set in this man-made water body. The kids can enjoy a ride on the toy train while you savour hot coffee and snacks at the restaurant here.

Devka Amusement Park has joyrides for children, food stalls and a garden.

Timings 5.00am-10.00pm

Manicured gardens of the Deltin Hotel & Casino

Nani Daman

The town imme diately north of the Damanganga is a magnet for tourists. It has the regular mithai and chaat shops and also cheaper liquor than what’s available in hotel bars.

The Damao Pequeno Jetty here has a popular fast-food complex and the St Jerome Fort built by the Portuguese in 1627. It was built as a protection against the then-powerful Mughals. The small fort looks pretty from a distance. Its low south gateway, with a statue of St Jerome set in a niche above the arch, is especially beautiful.

Moti Daman

The old fort here is packed with ancient buildings, of which the most beautiful are the two churches, the Church of Bom Jesus and Our Lady of Rosario. The Church of Bom Jesus is larger and older, and decidedly more splendid from the outside, but the other church’s altar is widely considered the most ornately carved and gilded amongst all Portuguese churches in India. The Archaeological Survey of India has restored many of the old buildings here. The fort also houses the Governor’s Palace, with a spectacular flight of stairs and ornate chandeliers.

Jampore Beach

Infinitely quieter than Devka, the beach at Jampore has a pastoral air about it. The Tourism Department has placed a few benches under the trees. You can sit on one and take in the beauty spread in front. By afternoon, the sea is a long way off and you would have to wade through the squelching black mud in vain to get to it. Camel and horse rides are on offer and if the tide is running low you can enjoy a short walk in the sea.

SHOPPING

The Maharaja Shopping Complex, opposite the police station, remains the hub for trade in ‘imported’ goods, chiefly comprising electronics, toys, cosmetics as well as toiletries. Another place for imported goods is the aptly named Foreign Market, near the police station. For cheap imported chocolates, imitation jewellery and watches, head to the shops at the 200-year-old municipal market on Char Rasta. At night, the Beach Road past the hotels in Devka remains brightly lit, and offers cheap garments, footwear and toys.

WHERE TO STAY

The Deltin Hotel & Casino (Tel: 0260-6699123; Tariff: ₹8,000-1,69,000) is the swankiest hotel here, with top-notch amenities. Hotel Miramar (Tel: 2254471; Tariff: ₹6,000-12,500) on Devka Beach has a kids’ play area and a swimming pool. The Mirasol Lake Resort and Park (Cell: 07574861906; Tariff: ₹6,000-8,000), also of the same group, is 2 km further down the road from Devka, in Kadaiya village.

Cidade de Daman (Tel: 2250591; Tariff: ₹3,900-9,000) on Devka Beach has lawns and a sea-view restaurant. Hotel Sovereign (Tel: 2255023; Tariff: ₹1,900-2,300) is a decent budget option, and their thali is very popular. Hotel Jazira (Tel: 2254330; Tariff: ₹4,000-10,000), on the beach, is a clean, dependable property with a restaurant, bar and pool table.

WHERE TO EAT

Daman does not have a distinctive cuisine but it offers a variety of food, to cater to its diverse clientele. Most hotel restaurants offer good food. In Moti Daman, Jampore Beach has snack shacks. Gurukripa, situated between Moti Daman and Devka Beach, offers a rich variety of seafood.

There are many choices in Nani Daman. There’s a fast-food complex on Damao Pequeno Jetty, next to the Nani Daman fort. The restaurant inside Devka Amusement Park offers everything from pao bhaji to pizza and ‘Mexican’ fare. Further down the road, the quaint Oliaji’s Duke Hotel serves Parsi food.

When to go October to May and during the Nariyal Poornima Festival. Daman is also very festive at Christmas Location Between Maharashtra and Gujarat just north of the interstate border, on India’s west coast Air Nearest airport: Mumbai Rail Nearest rail: Vapi