Daksum: River Music

Daksum is a village of some 70-odd houses of Kashmiris and Gujjars. It’s the last village in the Brengi River Valley, after which the road rises 32 km to Sinthan Top, a 12,450-ft-high pass en route to Kishtwar. Daksum has one Tourist Bungalow perched at the top, a narrow valley around and slopes on either side dense with conifers. River Brengi adds its musical hum to it all and numerous streams join her at every step.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

It is rare to find a place as forested as Daksum without needing a trek or a guide or a safari. Make the most of it. Head into a nearby forest; short walks are completely safe during the day. If you want, you can ask the staff at the JKTDC Bungalow to find a local to be your guide.

Brengi River

Just below the JKTDC bungalow, near a bend in the road is the access point to the Brengi river. On good weather days and holidays, you’ll find a few cars, or a bus with schoolkids, parked here with the occupants picnicking by the river. There is a bridge to walk over to the other side, a garden on the hillside above. Walk left along the river upstream. In a few minutes you will be on your own, except for the river rushing by and pine trees for shade.

Dessu Village

If you turn right after crossing Brengi and walk downstream, you will get to Dessu Village after a few minutes’ walk. This is a delightful walk too – the river on your right, streams trailing off it, riverside village houses with small kitchen gardens, water mills and fruit trees.

Mathar Nallah

Just below Dessu, a mountain stream, Mathar Nallah, comes down from the southeast into the Brengi. A path goes up along the nallah, leading up to a stone dam, which forms a tiny, pretty lake and fall.

The pristine Brengi river, Daksum

Sanjay Rawat

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

JKTDC’s Tourist Bungalow (Cell: 09469515050, 09596369601; Tariff: ₹1,500), a pleasant cottage, is the only choice here. The cook dishes out nice, fresh but basic dishes.

When to go April to September Location At 8,046 ft, just upstream of the confluence of Brengi river and Rajparian Nallah in Anantnag District, in a narrow valley Air Nearest airport: Srinagar Rail Nearest rail: Jammu