Way back in the 1930s, late Dr Salim Ali had described Thattekkad as “the richest bird habitat in peninsular India, comparable only with the eastern Himalayas”. A sanctuary was established here in 1983. Today, as many as 300 species of birds are said to be found here, along with numerous elephants, tigers, snakes and other wildlife. The undulating terrain is covered by tropical evergreen and semi-evergreen forests, and grasslands. Teak, red sandalwood, jungle jack, rosewood and endemic species such as Lagerstroemia microcarpa and Terminalia paniculata abound, along with the huge Tetrameles nudiflora – locally known as cheeni. Another find here is the rare telli, whose aromatic sap is used as incense.

The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary lies across the Periyar river, at one end of the recently built Thattekkad bridge. The entrance gate is 50m to the left, as is the counter where you pay your fee for entry and guide services. As soon as you enter the sanctuary gate at Sivakshetrapadi, steps to the right lead down to the Animal Rehab Centre. Opposite the centre, steps lead up to the Deer Park. The Taxidermic Museum is adjacent to the park.

Papilio Ulysses butterfly
Papilio Ulysses butterfly

Guides can be hired at the Assistant Wildlife Warden’s office at Thattekkad, close to the bridge. Vehicles are not allowed inside the sanctuary. You can park your vehicles either outside (in which case, safety cannot be guaranteed) or right inside the entry gate (vehicle entry fees apply).

The sanctuary is intercepted by the Old Munnar Road, and to its east lies 22sq km of dense forest. The Forest Inspection Bungalow is to the eastern side, and is close to the road. Inchathoty village is to the northern side of the sanctuary; there are two seasonal streams of Ovunkal (to the eastern side) and Kolambay (which is the sanctuary’s easternmost boundary).

◆ Entry Indians ₹ 25; Foreigners ₹ 100 Timings 8.00am–5.00pm Photography ₹ 38 Videography ₹ 225

Things to See & Do

Besides the beauty and the wealth of wildlife in this sanctuary, there are many other features that amaze tourists. For instance, the peninsular bay owl, considered extinct in these parts, has been spotted again. An exciting find has been that of tiger pugmarks – the lord of the jungle was earlier practically unheard of.

Thattekkad is a birdwatcher’s paradise. It is also known for its small mammalian population. Elephants are seasonal migrants, often found at Inchathotty, a village on the sanctuary’s eastern periphery. They also frequent the two seasonal streams of Ovunkal and, further east, Kolambay. The pachyderms share the forests with other mammals including sambar, the shy and solitary barking deer, wild boar and bonnet macaques. Besides giant squirrels, the trees are also home to the magnificent Travancore flying squirrel. The forests are also full of snakes. We had seen a vine snake camouflaged against a little bush beside our path. Indian rock pythons and king cobras are to be found in the dense evergreens close to the streams, while the spectacled cobra, the Russell’s viper, and the bad-tempered saw-scaled viper prefer the deciduous forests.

Stacked bamboo logs floating down the Edamalayar reservoir
Stacked bamboo logs floating down the Edamalayar reservoir

From Kothamangalam, a 15-km/ 20-min ride on the Kothamangalam-Edamalayar route takes you to this popular picnic spot. The dam, its reservoir and a children’s park are big attractions here. Another picturesque option is the Edamalayar Lower Dam, 12km further in from Bhootha-thankettu. Visit the Animal Rehab Centre, where wounded or stray animals are fed and cared for, until they are ready to be released back into the wild.

Opposite the centre is the Deer Park, which has sambar and beautiful chital in open-air enclosures. The Taxidermic Museum showcases the rich variety of Thattekkad’s denizens.

◆Timings for all 8.00am–6.00pm

Where to Stay

There are two good accommodation options in Thattekkad; both confusingly named Hornbill, though they are separate entities.

The privately-run Hornbill Camp (Kochi Tel: 0484-4012700, 2092280, Cell: 09895026679; Tariff: ₹ 6,500, with meals) is for serious birders. It is located outside the sanctuary. The cottage tents have sit-outs and ensuite bathrooms. Kayaking with guide, plantation walks and eco-tourism activities are on offer.

The Forest Department’s Hornbill Inspection Bungalow (Tariff: ₹ 900), with two rooms, is on the opposite bank, to the right on the Poyamkutty Road. The caretaker arranges meals on request. Or stay at the three-storey Frogmouth Watchtower (Tariff: Indians ₹ 2,500, Foreigners ₹ 5,000), located a kilometre into the forest and perfect for spotting birds. There is one room here and the tariff is inclusive of meals and guide fee. For bookings, contact the Wildlife Warden, Idukki (Tel: 04862-232271)

In Anakkayam, 8km from Thattekkad via Kuttampuzha, is the lovely Periyar River Lodge (Kochi Tel: 0484-2588315; Cell: 09447707173, 09526100118), smack on the riverbank. The 75-year-old teakwood house is built in the traditional nalukettu style. Settle into a charu kasera (armchair) and watch the Periyar glide by. The caretaker makes Keralite meals and offers packed lunches with advance notice. The lodge also offers birdwatching in Thattekkad, various boat tours to Bhoothathankettu and tours to Peendimedu Falls.

At the time of research, the lodge was undergoing renovation – it is likely to be functional from April 2016. Please check with the lodge before making bookings.

Kothamangalam Plantation Stay (Tel: 0485-2570717, Cell: 09388620399; Tariff: ₹ 10,000–12,000, with meals), also known as Mundackal Plantation Homestay, located in the sprawling Mundackal Estate next to NH49 at Pindimana (near Kothamangalam), is another excellent option outside Thattekkad. Set in a rubber plantation, the homestay offers birdwatching tours led by an ornithologist, cycling, hiking, trekking and plantation tours.

Fast Facts

When to go Any time of the year, except in the monsoons (July–August) Best sightings are from November–January, during the winter season, when several exotic species arrive here from the north

Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices

Assistant Wildlife Warden

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary

Njayappalli PO, Thattekkad-686691

Tel: 0485-2588302, Cell: 09495218122

Wildlife Warden, Idukki WLS

Vellappara PO, Idukki

Tel: 04862-232271

STD code Thattekad 0485 Idukki 04862

State Kerala

Location Also known as Thattekkad, the sanctuary is in the foothills of the Western Ghats in Ernakulam District. A part of the Bhoothathankettu Dam river lies within the sanctuary

Distance 74km NE of Kochi

Route from Kochi NH47 to Aluva; SH16 (Aluva-Munnar Road) to Kothamangalam via Perumbavoor; SH to Keerampara; ferry to Thattekkad.

Getting There

Air Nearest Airport: Cochin Inter-national Airport, Nedumbassery (49km/ 1.5hrs). Taxis (Tel: 0484-2610115, extn: 2017) to Thattekkad cost ₹ 1,245–₹ 1,380

Rail Nearest Railhead: Aluva (47km/ 1.5hrs), is served by most trains to Ernakulam Junction. A taxi to Thattek­kad will cost around ₹ 1,200

Road From Ernakulam, take NH49 to Kothamangalam via Thripunithura, Vadayamabdi and Muvattupuzha. From Kothamangalam, drive 7km down the Kothamangalam-Perumbankuthu Road to Keerampara, then another 6km to the ferry to Thattekkad. On the opposite bank, the road goes right, and the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary is 50m to the left Bus There are no direct buses from Kochi. One can take a bus from Ernaku­lam’s Central Bus Stand (Tel: 2372033) to Kothamangalam from where buses to Thattekad ply every 30 minutes