Keoladeo Ghana National Park is a gem in India’s ecological crown despite being one of
The monsoon season witnesses the maximum avian activity in the park. However, tourists often ignore spotting the resident birds as all their attention is diverted to the winter and the accompanying migratory birds. During the rains, some of India’s most spectacular birds deck themselves in their finest plumage, get together to court their mates and nest in huge colonies in the trees inside the sanctuary.
One afternoon, when I was standing by the lake, watching birds through my binoculars, an open-billed stork descended in front of a babul tree. Suddenly there was a cracking sound on the road behind me and another open-bill stork was wrestling with a small branch of a tree. It slowed down its pace and then grabbed the branch in its heavy bill and wrenched it away before jumping into the air and flying to its nest. A pair of open-bills were arranging twigs together to build their new home. Another pair was mating, some were were sitting on their eggs, eyes half-shut, looking profoundly content. I was sure that they would not look so happy once the chicks were born. The chicks are notorious for growing at a fast pace and demanding food in loud voices.
Hopping along the road in front of me, as I strolled towards the Keoladeo Temple in the centre of the park, were some of the permanent residents – the little brown jobs or LBJs as they are called by birdwatchers. These were, in fact, the creatures responsible for the popularity of Dr. Salim Ali, India’s greatest ornithologist. As a child, Salim Ali had received an airgun from his father and he used to amuse himself by shooting birds that perched near his house. One day he shot what he assumed was a house sparrow. Then he noticed it had a yellow patch on its throat. He became curious and started investigating which species it was. They were chestnut-shouldered petronias.
While rains bring their own charm to the sanctuary, winter remains the best time to visit this national park. When the park was made a World Heritage Site, its guests in the cold season included the Siberian cranes. Sadly, the sanctuary proved too unfriendly a place for the flock as they were driven away by consecutive years of drought. Siberian cranes are now on the verge of extinction. They were last sighted in India in 2002. It would require a real miracle to bring these cranes back to this sanctuary now. A comforting fact is that although the vegetarian Siberian cranes are gone, there is still the chance of seeing demoiselle cranes, common cranes, or the resident crane, the sarus, that have not gone down in number.
ABOUT KEOLADEO GHANA NP
Keoladeo is the name by which locals refer to Lord Shiva here. There is a small temple of Shiva in the heart of the park. There is a canteen next to the temple, where you get tea and snacks. Ghana refers to the thick tree cover the area once had.
This sanctuary is also known by the name of Bharatpur, the adjoining town. It was named after the king who ruled this region in the late 19th century. He had been instrumental in developing the park, after he recognised the potential of the woodland. The lake inside the park was formed by a natural depression that was filled by water diverted here via irrigation canals. The king is also said to have built small dams and a system of dykes and shooting butts, and succeeding in converting the area into one of the richest wetland habitats in the world.
In 1956, the area was declared a sanctuary. However, the king continued to use the grounds for hunting till 1972. It is ironic, though, that the population of birds decreased after the central government banned hunting in the area. Drought, cattle grazing and contamination of water from pesticides have been blamed for the decline in the number of migratory birds here. The huge number of tourists visiting the park has also contributed to the decline of the park’s ecosystem. Many tourists leave behind plastic bags and bottles, which have adversely affected the grounds.
The lake inside the park constitutes about one-third of the park’s 29sq km area. Today, around 350 species of birds migrate to this park in winters and around 120 species are residents of the sanctuary.
ORIENTATION
The park is open from 6.00am–6.00pm – it pays to be an early bird here, as morning is a great time for birdwatching. The main gate, where the entrance tickets are purchased, is situated at one end of the tarred road that runs from the north to the eastern side of the park, along the Ghana Canal. You can park your vehicle either at the gate or at the nearby ITDC Hotel. If you reach the park on a rickshaw, you can also take it inside. The rickshaw pullers have been trained by the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) in recognising birdlife. At the main gate, bicycles and tonga (horse cart) are available for hire. You can also walk. Cars and bikes are not allowed in the park.
◆Entry fee Indians ₹75, Foreigners ₹500 Vehicle fee ₹50 Guide ₹150 per hour Video camera ₹200 Bicycle ₹45 per day Rickshaw ₹100 per hour.
Book online at W rajasthanwildlife.rajasthan.gov.in/wildlife
Tip Maps of the park are sold at the Tourist Reception Centre
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Birdwatching
There are many routes inside the park, but opt for the ones that are laid out near the swamps for the maximum number of sightings. Take the route to Sapan Mori, and then turn right for Keoladeo temple. A left turn from here will take you to the sunning ground of pythons. The Mansarovar and Hansarovar marshes and the lakes of Bharatpur form one of the most important heronries in the world.
Winter is the best time to see the various birds of prey come together. It is fascinating to study and compare their sizes, their plumage and other unique features. The largest and most impressive of these birds is the eagle. It has a habit of gliding low over an assembled row of ducks and chasing them.
Boat ride
You can book boat rides from the tourist reception centre. Boats are available for hire from the jetty near the ITDC Hotel.
◆ Boat ride ₹350 (4pax)
WHERE TO STAY
A majority of hotels are along the Salim Ali Road, which runs from Bharatpur city till the park entrance. The pride of place is the Laxmi Vilas Palace (Tel: 05644-223523; Tariff: ₹6,000–10,000), a fine heritage property run by members of the Bharatpur royal family. It is set amidst 50 acres of land in Kakaji-ki-Kothi on the old Agra-Jaipur Road. The palace is small and ornate, with a large courtyard. The Bagh Resort (Tel: 228333, 225415; Tariff: ₹7,500), on the old Agra-Achnera Road, has a restaurant, bar and coffee shop. They also arrange safaris. A popular option, 23km from the park, is Chandra Mahal Haveli (Delhi Tel: 011-66617837/ 38; Tariff: ₹10,090–11,870), in Peharsar on Jaipur-Agra Road. It has a restaurant as well.
ITDC’s Hotel Bharatpur Ashok (Tel: 222722/ 60; Tariff: ₹4,500) in the park has the best location, but it requires renovation. It has a multi-cuisine restaurant and bar. Birder’s Inn (Tel: 227346; Tariff: ₹2,700–5,500) is located near the park entrance. Kadamb Kunj Resort (Cell: 09214204489, 09414023709; Tariff: ₹4,500–8,000) on Fatehpur Sikri Road, 3km from the park, has a restaurant, a pool and organises cultural events in the evenings.
Hotel Sunbird (Tel: 225701; Tariff: ₹3,084–3,672), close to the park, offers clean rooms. RTDC’s Hotel Saras (Tel: 223790; Tariff: ₹1,100–1,300) has 27 rooms. At Shanti Kutir, 2km inside the park, near the tourist reception centre, the Wildlife Warden’s Office complex (Tel: 222777; Tariff: ₹1,100) houses an FRH with four rooms for forest department officials.
WHERE TO EAT
Salim Ali Road is the best bet, as most of the restaurants in the hotels are open to non-residents.
Hotel Sunbird offers tasty breakfast while Nightingale has tandoori options. ITDC is still the best place to head to for lunch. It serves delicious Rajasthani, Indian, Mughlai and Continental cuisines.
AROUND KEOLADEO GHANA NP
Bharatpur Fort (3km)
The central citadel of Bharatpur, the Bharatpur Fort, was built by the Jat ruler Suraj Mal in 1730. The fort complex is beautiful and offers a perfect setting for photoraphy.
◆Timings 10.00am–4.30pm Closed Friday and gazetted holidays
Deeg (36km)
The second capital of Suraj Mal’s kingdom in the 18th century was at Deeg. The king had defeated a combined Mughal and Maratha army of 80,000 odd men at this place. Suraj Mal’s palace, Gopal Bhavan and the gardens in the Mughal-Rajput style make the trip worthwhile. There is also an old Hanuman temple here, which has a secret passage to the king’s bedroom. There’s a water fountain system that works even today, but it is turned on only on special occasions.
◆ Palace entry ₹10
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: Agra (60km/ 2hrs). Taxi to Bharatpur costs ₹3,500
Rail Nearest railhead: Bharatpur Junction (42km/ 20mins)
Road A smooth six-lane highway till Mathura
Bus Rajasthan Roadways has regular services from ISBT Sarai Kale Khan (Tel: 011-24353731)
Halt at Dabchick Resort, Hodal or at Country Inn at Kosi en route
FAST FACTS
When to go November–February is an ideal season for spotting birds. August–October are the peak months for breeding
Wildlife/ Forest Dept offices
Keoladeo Ghana NP
Near Shanti Kunj (park area)
Tel: 05644-222777
Tourist Reception Centre
Dept of Tourism
Agra Road, Bharatpur
Tel: 222542
STD code 05644
State Rajasthan
Location In Bharatpur
Distance 205km S of Delhi, 185km NE of Jaipur
Route from Delhi NH11 to Keoladeo Ghana National Park from the Bharatpur-Mathura road via Yamuna Expressway; Alternate Route NH2 to Mathura via Faridabad, Hodal and Kosi Kalan; state road from Mathura to Bharatpur
North Zone
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Rajasthan
