OT: When did you decide to start Chain Reaction? What exactly do you do? Shahwar Hussain: I started
OT: What were you doing before that?
Shahwar Hussain: I ran a classic and vintage car restoration garage in Guwahati. I also worked as a sports journalist for a local newspaper. I later joined an automotive magazine in Delhi.
OT: Did you grow up in the Northeast?
Shahwar Hussain: I grew up in Guwahati but I spent a lot of time in Nagaland too. I can speak Assamese, Bengali, Nagamese and a bit of Khasi and Mizo. Nagamese stands me in good stead as I mostly travel through Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh. It opens many doors for me.
OT: Are Arunachal and Nagaland difficult places to work or travel in?
Shahwar Hussain: Most people look at the Northeast with a jaundiced eye. The permits have been revoked. Protected Area Permits for foreigners visiting Nagaland have been suspended for this year. Domestic visitors need Inner Line Permits for both states and these can be obtained easily from the state bhawans in Delhi, Kolkata, Shillong, Tezpur and Guwahati. As for the terrain: yes, it’s difficult and the roads need to be improved and the tourist infrastructure needs to be upgraded. But it’s a blessing in disguise. People who love their comforts might find it rough and ready, but the facilities are quite decent, I think. We’ve tied up with a lot of homestays and eco-camps, for instance.
OT: The best biking trails in the Northeast?
Shahwar Hussain: The road from Shillong to Cherapunjee is a dream. The sweeping curves are so well-laidout that one can ride a superbike here. The other good road is from Shillong to Mawlynnlong. It is 86km of steep hills on one side and deep gorges on the other. The mist comes rolling in every now and then, and blocks the view completely.
In Arunachal Pradesh, the road from Bhalukpong to Tawang that passes through the 13,700ft Sela Pass is one of my favourites. There can be several landslides along the way but the fantastic views of the snow-capped mountains, the dense forests, lakes and the roaring river way below are breathtaking.
For off-road enthusiasts, there is a road that runs from Mon to Tuli in Nagaland. It passes through coal mines, slush, forests of bamboo and small villages with lovely houses and churches. Then all of a sudden you hit a beautiful road that leads to Mokokchung.
OT: Your worst, or most daunting, trip?
Shahwar Hussain: There were two riders from Australia, who were not really good riders. As we started climbing Sela Pass, it started drizzling and snowing and they kept falling off their bikes. We were moving very, very slowly and I was dreading getting stuck in the middle of nowhere. There were no other vehicles on the road. We ultimately crossed the dangerous stretch without much damage to the riders, although the bikes took a real beating.
OT: What about bikers who may want to tour the area on their own? Why might they want to sign up to travel with Chain Reaction?
Shahwar Hussain: Well, anyone can travel on their own steam and seasoned travellers shouldn’t have any problems here. But when one travels with us, one gets to see much more of the region than the obvious. I avoid the usual touristy places and travel through the interiors where you see village life in all its unvarnished glory. The places off the tourist maps are the most interesting. The relationships I have built with the villagers over the years help a lot too. Also, the Northeast is far away from mainland India and transporting the bikes to the region is an expensive proposition. When they sign up with Chain Reaction, the hassles of transporting the bike, permits and accommodation worries are laid to rest. They can just land up at Guwahati and start the trip. Time is always at a premium and riders prefer riding for two extra days rather than worrying about logistics.
OT: What keeps you on the road?
Shahwar Hussain: The fact that I always learn something new, meet interesting people and listen to their stories. Like when I met two old Naga men with war medals pinned onto their shawls — one fought under the British flag and the other was with the Imperial Japanese Army.
OT: New frontiers?
Shahwar Hussain: An offroad tour through Nagaland, touring trans-Bhutan, caving, photography and a cuisine tour. Maybe a book too!
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