Thalassery: The Heritage Town

At first glance, Thalassery seems like a poor relation of its neighbours, Kannur and Kozhikode. But venturing a little deeper reveals remarkable facets of this unassuming little town by the sea. Who would have thought, for instance, that cricket, now a national obsession, was first played here? That aromas from the first cake to be baked in India once wafted through its streets? But Thalassery is perhaps best known for the evolution of the Indian circus, an innovative synthesis of kalari exercises and movements from other art forms, pioneered by the legendary Keeleri Kunhikannan almost a 100 years ago.

In addition to cake and cricket, a number of Europeans left their mark on this Colonial town: Hermann Gundert, compiler of an unrivalled Malayalam-English dictionary, Brennan, the educator, Logan, oft-quoted for his work on the Malabar, and Thomas Harvey Baber, the English administrator, to mention a few. As recorded in Logan’s famous manual, Baber also helped preserve Thalassery’s temples and, after defeating the Pazhassi Raja, sought to honour him by placing the Raja’s body in his own palanquin, ensuring that “customary honours were performed at his funeral.” In Thalassery, locals often serve as proud guides, taking the curious traveller to Colonial relics such as Overbury’s Folly.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The historical sights are located to the east of Thalassery, bound by Logan’s and Gundert Roads. At one end is the famous maidan which hosted the first cricket matches ever played in India, some by the father of the famous English cricketer, Sir Colin Cowdrey. Not only that the first cricket club was founded here in 1866. It is said that the Duke of Wellington introduced the red cherry to these parts; his mates included faithful retainers, dhobis and butlers, who came together to form the team. However, today not only have a number of lovely churches disappeared but the fort lies in ruins, a testament to the ravages of time. The more popular tourist attractions now include dazzling beaches, holy temples and hallowed kalaris.

A beautiful sunset as seen from Overbury’s Folly

Prashant Panjiar

Colonial Tellicherry

Constructed in the 17th century, its massive ramparts overlooking the sea, Tellicherry Fort was built by the British. Lord Wellesley suppressed many rebellions by the legendary Pazhassi Raja from this fort. Dramatic stories of an underground tunnel leading to a huge circular drawing room, an engineering feat in those times, are popular myths given the dilapidated state of the fort, which makes it impossible to excavate and validate their existence.

Thalassery also was the first British settlement on the Malabar Coast. The Cherakkal Raja granted the site to the British East India Company in 1663, to build a trading station and control the lucrative pepper trade. The fort was completed in 1708, only to be attacked by Hyder Ali in 1781. Situated on a headland that stands sentinel over the port, the fort offers a panoramic view, creating the impression of invulnerability.

Timings 10.00am–5.00pm

From the ramparts of the fort, one can see the ruins of the Holy Rosary Church, recently reconstructed. On the left, ensconced within the dense foliage, is the picturesque ruin of the old Anglican Church. Edward Brennan is buried in the cemetery. Further honour was bestowed on him by naming a college in Thalassery after him.

Overbury’s Folly, a picnic spot built by EM Overbury, a Britisher who served as a judge in area in the 1870s, is located on the slope of a rocky promontory overlooking the sea. It also has a circular Colonial bungalow-turned-restaurant.

On one side of the Thalassery stadium is Gundert Park, with a rather severe and uncompromising looking statue of Hermann Gundert, who compiled the first Malayalam-English dictionary. He was a prolific writer and published 18 other books in Malayalam. His daughter Anna, who was born in Thalaserry, and her husband, served as missionaries in India; their son, Hermann Hesse, was the author of Siddhartha.

The façade of Tellicherry Fort, blackened over time

Other landmark bungalows include Wellesley’s Bungalow, which belonged to TH Baber. The house was named after Lord Wellesley, who was a guest at the manor, largely because it was Wellesley who created space for Indians cricketers. The game had been played on Indian soil but only by the British. The house is now the home of a sub-collector. Gundert’s Bungalow is on a hill not far away, in Illikunnu. It is a proper Colonial mansion with deep eaves, wide verandahs and massive doors. To visit this bungalow, one needs to get permission from the Principal of Nettur Technical Training Foundation (number below), a technical training institute which now occupies the bungalow.

Location Anjarakandy Road Timings 8.00am–5.00pm Tel 04902351423

Odathil Palli Mosque

This 500-year-old mosque at the heart of Thalassery was built by a rich Arab merchant on land donated by the Portuguese. Built along the lines of a typical Kerala Hindu temple, this mosque is unusual in that it has neither domes nor minarets. Its ceiling is made of copper and its wooden walls have fine carvings. The mosque has been renovated with the help of the Fundação Oriente Institution in Lisbon, Portugal. Somewhat contradictory to its multicultural past and heritage, Odathil Palli is not open to non-Muslims and it is quite difficult to catch more than just a glimpse.

Location 500m from the fort

Muzhappilangad Beach

Muzhappilangad Beach is located along a beautiful coastline, garlanded by lovely beaches. Amongst the longest beaches in Kerala, it has the distinction of being the only drive-in beach in the state. Cars can be driven all the way up to Kannur along the tightly packed sand, a truly awe-inspiring drive. A ring of black rocks protect the shallow sea off the beach from the currents of the deeper ocean, making it perfect for bathing. The Dharmadam Island across the Anjarakandy river can be seen from the Muzhappilangad Beach, and at low tide, the adventurous visitor can wade across all the way to the island.

Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory

Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory

The British introduced cakes to Thalassery, and the legacy lives on at Mambally Bakery. Established by Mambally Babu in 1880, this bakery is so small and inconspicuous that its hardly noticeable without the sign. Even so, it claims to be the first bakery in Kerala.

Planters and British officials used to converge at Thalassery to play cricket in the winter months. They patronised Mambally for cakes and biscuits, especially for gifting over Christmas. Today Bappu’s descendants bake biscuits of all kinds, which are on display invitingly in tall glass jars. Mouth-watering, crisp and delicious, these cakes and cookies use ingredients as diverse as cashew nuts, cornflakes, coconut, jam, fruit, cream, chocolate and Indian spices.

Location Harbour City, Shopping Mall Timings 10.00am–8.30pm; Tel 0490-2342578

Suryanarayana Temple, Kadirur

Dating back to the 13th century, the idol at this temple is believed to have been consecrated by Lord Rama while on his way to Sri Lanka to rescue Sita. Kadirur is the shortened form of Kadiravanur, the land of Suryanarayana. Much later, on orders from T.H. Baber, prayers were offered here to help the army that was marching to annex Coorg. When they won the battle, a grateful Baber supported renovations of the temple, which had been badly damaged in earlier skirmishes with Tipu Sultan.

Location 5km from Thalassery on SH30 to Kuttuparamba Timings 5.30–11.30am & 5.30–8.30pm

Fishing boats anchored off Mahe Beach

Courtesy Kerala Tourism

Mahe

Situated on the south bank of the Moolakadavu river and bisected by the Mahe river, Mahe is part of the Union Territory of Pondicherry. Like Pondicherry, Mahe was once a trading post of the French East India Company. The traders built a fort here as well, though it is now in ruins. All sights worth seeing in Mahe are either on the waterfront or near the beach. A statue of Marienne, symbolic of the ideals of the French Revolution – liberté, égalité, fraternité – graces Tagore Park, which is next to the beach. Mahe’s distinctive look is derived by blending of French and local architectural styles. However, a structure built purely in the French style is the Government House, completed in 1855.

Timings 9:00am–5:00pm

St. Theresa’s Church situated in this little town is known all over Malabar for the efficacy of prayers offered here. People of all religions descend on the church for the fête (5–22 October), which is considered to be an especially auspicious time.

St. George’s Fort at Cherukallu offers spectacular views of Mahe and its environs.

Kalaripayattu

The bell metal lamps, lining each step in the kalari, are lit as early as 6:00am, when the air is still thick with the night’s mist. The steps lead to Bhagavathi, the Goddess of Kalari, the embodiment of courage. To the right is the Guruthara, an altar dedicated to the ancient preceptors of the art. To watch young men and women, who are training in the art of Kalariyapattu, pray for strength to the goddess and their teachers, in a semi-dark world lit by bell-metal lamps and infused with incense, is a beautiful sight to behold. They follow this up with exercises with incredible grace. The CVN Kalari was founded in 1921 by CV Narayanan Nair. The present Gurukkal, CV Devadas, also does marmachikitsa, based on training techniques of the art and used for curing injuries, bruises and fractures, and improving circulation.

Location Chellattom Veedu, Thiruvangad, 1km from Thalassery

Students practising Kalaripayattu at CVN Kalari School

Gireesh G.v

Anjarakandy Cinnamon Estate

The Anjarakandy Cinnamon Estate is the biggest cinnamon plantation in Asia. Established by British East India Company agent Murdoch Brown in 1798, it is also Kerala’s first cinnamon plantation, immerssed in the magical aroma of cinnamon. Visitors need to take permission from the CEO of the Prestige Educational Trust to arrange a visit.

Tel 0490-2852355/ 75

WHERE TO STAY

There are a few good stay options in Thalassery. Ayesha Manzil (Cell: 09847002340, 09496189296; Tariff: ₹17,000, with meals) sits on a cliff overlooking the sea. They serve great food. Right in the heart of town on Logan’s Road is Paris Residency (Tel: 2342666-68; Tariff: ₹1,200–3,500) offers a travel desk and a restaurant, which serves good food.

Clean and well staffed, the Pearl View Regency (Tel: 2326702-04; Tariff: ₹1,650–3,250) boasts a multi-cuisine restaurant, a bar and offers Ayurvedic treatments.

Soubhagya Residency (Tel: 2341203-04; Tariff: ₹1,800–3,300) on Logan’s Road offers 24 rooms and Internet. Their restaurant serves authentic Thalassery food. However, parking is a problem at this hotel. Park Lynne Beach (Cell: 09846433766; Tariff: ₹2,750–3,500) is a beautiful homestay with all rooms facing the sea. A good budget option is Saravanapriya Guest House (Tel: 0497-2827333, Cell: 09744559779; Tariff: ₹350–675) near Muzhappilangad Beach with 45 rooms, a restaurant, indoor games and room service.

WHERE TO EAT

Thalassery has a number of carts that sell kallumakaya, or mussels, a north Malabar delicacy. Thalassery enjoys the distinction of having had the first Western-style bakery in Kerala, the celebrated Mambally’s. The savoury petti pathiri, bread stuffed with meat and egg, and fish pathiri that are served over here are particularly sumptuous. Thalassery is also known for its biryani, or the Kerala biryani. What sets it apart from other forms of biryani is the blend of cultural influences, evident in its preparation. Some of the best biryani can be eaten at the Paris Residency, located on the Main Road. Vegetarians may head to Green Leaf Restaurant, on Gundart Road opposite the stadium, for authentic and spicy Kerala dishes. Some of the best food in Thalassery is served in a contemporary, relaxed ambience at Rara Avis Restaurant on Logan’s Road. Olive Garden, on Thalassery-Kodiveri Road serves good south Indian meals.

AROUND THALASSERY

Shiva Temple, Thodikkalam (24km)

This temple at Thodikkalam is known for being the hiding place of the Pazhassi Raja, when he was running from the British. Legend associates it with King Harish Chandra as well. It is said that Shiva, pleased with the honest king’s ethics, gave him a lingam.

The king, while searching for a suitable site to install it, witnessed Shiva dancing in a cremation ground and decided on that location. The name ‘thodikkalam’ comes from chutala kalam, which means ‘cremation ground’. Eighteen laterite steps lead up to the temple, whose exteriors are marked with exquisite murals of episodes from the Ramayana, Rukmini Swayamvaram and some rare ones of Adi Shankara.

Location 2km from Kannavam via Kuttuparamba and Nedumpoyil Timings 5.00am–7.30pm

Akkara and Ikkara Temples, Kottiyur (50km)

Deep in the lush forests of Kottiyur, on either side of the river, are the twin temples, Akkara and Ikkara. The former has only a Shivalingam with a thatched roof, while the latter is unusual in that it has a nalukettu, giving it a homely appearance.

Location 21km from Nedumpoyil via Kuttuparamba Timings 5.00am–1.00pm & 4.00–8.00pm Pooja Timings 7.00–8.00am, 12.00–1.00pm & 7.00–8.00pm Main Festival 20-day Dakshina Kashi in Edavam (May–June) Tel 0490-2430434

Inputs by Ambika Menon