Sulthan Bathery: A Farewell to Arms

While its name is reminiscent of its rather unromantic past as an ammunition dump, Sulthan Bathery offers much more than stories about marching armies, munitions and battles that marred the picturesque and peaceful scenery of the area. History has defined Sulthan Bathery. It was once known as Ganapathivattam, or the circle of Lord Ganapathi, but its name was changed when Tipu Sultan marched into town with his army and started to store arms in a Jain Temple, dated to the 13th century. Today, a police station is located on the site of Tipu’s erstwhile fort. Despite its grim and slightly defeating history, there is plenty of fun to be had in Sulthan Bathery, at the fascinating Edakkal Caves with drawings dating back to the Neolithic Age, the Chethlayam Falls and the Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. The mountains within which Sulthan Bathery is nestled are also ideal for trekking, with jungle trails that fire one’s wanderlust.

ORIENTATION

Sulthan Bathery spreads along either side of NH212, which connects Mysore to Kozhikode, cities 100km apart from each other. The town is located around 30km from the trijunction of the state borders of Kerala, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. The Karnataka border is a few kilometres away from the Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary at Muthanga. The forests and hills at this ‘trijunction’ are part of the huge Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, which covers the Bandipur Sanctuary in Karnataka and the Mudumalai Sanctuary in Tamil Nadu. Sulthan Bathery has a few good hotels, and excellent sights to see, all of which are just a short drive away.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

It is possible to visit all relevant sights around Sulthan Bathery in two days. The sights are spread out along the roads out of the town, to the east and the west. The Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary and the Chethalayam Falls are located to the east, and can be covered in about a day; the Edakkal Caves and the Ambalavayal Museum are situated to the west of the town. Hire sturdy jeeps for sanctuary visits, and visit shops selling handicrafts, honey and coffee along the way.

Entrance to the ancient Edakkal Caves

Prashant Panjiar

Edakkal Caves

Edakkal literally means ‘other stone in between’ in Malayalam. The caves, located on an ancient route connecting the ranges of Mysore to the ports of Malabar, are a source of mystery to archaeologists. The origins of the engravings in the caves remain unknown: while some believe they date to the Neolithic Age, others have pointed to engravings which seem to be from the Mesolithic Age, when celts (prehistoric stone or metal implements) were used.

The Edakkal Caves were discovered by Fred Fawcett, then the Superintendent of Police of Malabar, during a trip to the Ambukuthy mountain range. While on a hunting trip in Wayanad, in 1890, he found a Neolithic stone axe in a coffee estate. This led him to the rock-shelter 1000-ft high on the mountain, and subsequently, to the undiscovered drawings in the caves.

Private vehicles can only travel up to the first kilometre of the gradient, where they must be marked at the notified common car park. Hereafter, you may hire a jeep for 1hr 30 min, for one single trip to and from the caves. Special ginger sherbet and herbal masala soda are sold where the jeeps stop. The herbal drinks are believed to promote wellbeing. The Kurichias of Wayanad, who live here, are known to have long life spans primarily because of their diet. Vinay Handicrafts sells interesting carvings made from coffee wood.

A slightly tough climb to the top follows the jeep ride, but the view makes it worth your while. Acres of green forest and hillocks stretch out in all directions, and can be viewed through a telescope, thoughtfully provided.

The caves are said to have been formed many thousands of years ago, when water flowed from the earth between the rocks. The first enclosure at the site still has a trickle of water in the corner across from the entrance. There are two levels, and the drawings are only found on the second level. The paintings depict the lives of tribes that might have lived here thousands of years ago. The carvings are elaborate and suggest that they were etched into the walls by several people, some of whom may have worked from platforms, given the height of the carvings. Among the 15 engravings found here are a prominent human figure with headgear, a few male and female figures, a human figure on a wheeled cart, an elephant and deer.

Location Ambukuthy Hill near Ambalavayal Entry ₹10 Parking ₹10 Guide ₹100 Photography ₹25 Videography  ₹150; Timings 7:00am–5:00pm

Heritage Museum, Ambalavayal

This museum houses many various objects associated with the tribes in this region. The terracotta figurines, collected from many places across Wayanad, are displayed alongside pottery dating back to the Megalithic period, as well as ornaments, hunting traps and musical instruments used by indigenous tribes of Wayanad.

Entry Adults ₹10 Children ₹5 Photography ₹10 Timings 9:00am–6:00pm

Chethalayam Falls

The Chethalayam Falls are one of Wayanad’s lesser-known falls. Although they tend to dry up between the monsoons, the area is still beautiful and trekking enthusiasts are sure to enjoy climbing the rocks.

Jaina Temple, Kidanganad

The ruins of the Jaina Temple at Kidanganad are located along NH212 towards Kalpetta. The magnificent granite stone structure, with columns at one end, offers a study of the Jaina influence on Kerala temple architecture. The temple is taken care of by the Archaeological Survey of India

Timings 8.00am–12.00pm; 2.00–6.00pm

Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary

Located to the east of Sulthan Bathery, the Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary at Muthanga is a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. Unfortunately, elephant safaris through Muthanga were discontinued in the early 1990s. With only one watchtower and shrunken water-holes, sightings of animals endemic to the region, such as leopards, sambar deer and chital, are unlikely, but elephants and deer are spotted quite often.

Entry Indian’s Adults ₹20, Children ₹10; Foreigners ₹110 Vehicles Light Vehicle ₹50; Heavy Vehicle ₹150 Photography ₹25 Videography ₹150 Guide ₹100

Edakkal Hermitage’s cave restaurant

Saibal Das

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Sulthan Bathery has excellent resorts and homestays located just outside town. There are a couple of good mid-range hotels in town itself.

Tranquil Resort (Tel: 04936-220244, Cell: 09947588507) is a beautiful getaway set in a 400-acre coffee and pepper plantation in Kolagappara. The estate has charted out 13 treks within its own grounds, bearing such names as Indiana Jones and Cliffhanger. The easiest trek is the Cardamom Walk through 10 acres of cardamom plantations. Braveheart is true to its name, it goes uphill all the way. The resort also offers Ayurvedic massages and a swimming pool. Edakkal Hermitage Resort (Tel: 221860, Cell: 09847001491; Tariff: ₹4,950) is built into the slopes of Ambukuthy Hill where the Edakkal Caves are located.

Orchid Resort (Tel: 262844, 264044, Cell: 09447160510; Tariff: ₹3,900–9,100) is an eco-friendly resort with good facilities, 12km from Sulthan Bathery off NH212, en route to Lower Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. Wynberg Resorts(Cell: 09744541203, 09526612111; Tariff: ₹3,000–5,500) is set in the picturesque surroundings of Kuzhivayal Estate at Thrikkaipetta, 18km from Sulthan Bathery. Wynberg offers nine, one tree house, one tent and many games and excursions.

In Sulthan Bathery itself, Isaacs, the Resort (Tel: 220510-11; Tariff: ₹1,500–2,800) at Gandhi Junction, offers 10 rooms, two restaurants as well as a beer and wine parlour. KTDC’s Hotel Pepper Grove (Cell: 09400008664; Tariff: ₹1,500–3,000) near Manichira Lake offers 19 rooms and a restaurant. Hotel Mint Flower (Tel: 227179/ 81-82; Tariff: ₹1,175– 2,975) is on the highway and has a popular restaurant and bakery.

WHERE TO EAT

The Edakkal Hermitage, located close to the caves, has what is perhaps the only cave restaurant in India. They serve authentic Kerala cuisine, in a fascinating little cavern – a unique experience. The Tranquil Restaurant at the Kuppamudi Coffee Estate offers a satisfying mix of fantastic views, great traditional food and very warm service. The Mint Flower, at Chungam, has great seafood. The Jubilee Restaurant on NH212 is a pocket-friendly, accessible option. The joint is best known for Malappuram roast chicken, alfaham chicken and tandoori chicken. Kerala, Chinese and north Indian meals are offered at Hotel Prince. Isaac’s the Resort has two restaurants: the Edakkal View and the Kabini Restaurant, which offer a variety of cuisines.