Ponmudi: A Walk in the Clouds

Each turn on the journey from Thiruvananthapuram to Ponmudi, along winding roads up the ghats, is breathtaking, because of the sharp curves and the stunning scenery both of which evoke awe, albeit of different kinds. Ponmudi offers the opportunity to experience heartstopping exhilaration of both kinds at the same time, calling for a certain kind of abandon. Literally meaning ‘Golden Crown’, Ponmudi is located at a height of 3,002ft above sea level. A veritable scenic feast, the drive here dazzles one’s senses with a kind of careless grace, that makes it difficult to remember to panic about hairpin bends, as mountains and valleys stretch out all around, playing hide and seek with the fluffy white clouds. Ponmudi is even more beautiful after a light drizzle, when the mist descends on the lush hill station to wrap it in a mysterious cloak. It then truly becomes a walk in the clouds, to be cherished for years to come.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

This quaint hill station is always welcoming, primarily because of its pleasant weather and the sheer number of tourist attractions. Travellers will be spoilt for choice – be it in terms of the natural beauty, trekking opportunities, a wildlife sanctuary and more.

 The Quiet Hill Station

It is from Kallar that the Western Ghats and the hairpin bends with their spectacular vistas, while en route to Ponmudi from Thiruvananthapuram, begin. The thick forests that offer such amazing sights in the first half of this journey give way to tea, cardamom and pepper plantations. Other than in summers, charming little rivulets and springs are visible from nearly all points along the road. The air continues to become more and more crisp as one passes by houses of workers from the tea estate and a few tea shops in the Merchiston Tea Plantation, until the road ends at Ponmudi.

Ponmudi is not a tourist destination by any means, but is a rare offering of nature’s beauty that is untouched by touristy gimmicks. Ponmudi proper now occupies the area that was once known as Lower Sanatorium, where the tourist complex, the Government Guest House, the KTDC restaurant and the beer parlour are now located.

Meenmutti Waterfalls gushing down the mountain

It is possible to do some easy trekking in the areas around, to what was earlier the Upper Sanatorium but is now known somewhat confusingly as the Deer Park, which offers plenty of exciting views and relaxing walks, however, no deer to speak of. Smoking is prohibited here and vehicles are not allowed, quite a big relief for wildlife lovers, who can enjoy listening to birds and watch butterflies flutter while breathing in fresh air.

Meenmutti Waterfalls

Meenmutti offers the option of a casual hike through cool forests, beside a bubbling Kallar river, punctuated only by the cries of birds and crickets. As part of its Ecotourism project, the Forest Department of Kerala protects about 200 hectares of the forest land in and around Meenmutti. To trek to the Meenmutti Falls, visitors will need to get in touch with the Chief Conservator of Forests in Thiruvananthapuram for a permit. It is advisable to dress sensibly, wear shoes with a good grip, and pay attention to the board at the entrance cautioning visitors about slippery boulders, deep ponds and flash floods. The Forest Department had built some tree-houses for birdwatchers here, though only three remain. One of these, atop a particularly tall tree, offers panoramic views of the forest.

The trek has a number of points, beginning from Point 1, Vattappara. Railings have been constructed where the pathway is particularly narrow, though these are not continuous and it is advisable to be aware of where they end – so that one is not suddenly grasping at thin air. Point 2 is Vellarippara, where there is a rough pathway that leads down to the river, where visitors can swim or relax for a while on the rocks – a place obviously earmarked for families. The next point is Mamoodu, a fishing point, which a board curiously calls the bachelors’ area’. Further ahead is Vellarippara Up, where two huge, overhanging rocks form a stone canopy for trekkers. The clearing underneath has a couple of ramshackle wooden benches and there is a small cave nearby, which one has to crawl through for a spectacular view of the river.

Further on, after crossing the river, the trail finally reaches the Meenmutti Falls. For ardent trekkers who want to challenge themselves, there is a more difficult path over the mountain that leads to the falls as well. The river is only accessible through this path when in full spate during the monsoons.

For most of the year, the waterfall presents a glorious sight of an almost unbroken sheet of water falling with great force. It is possible to take a dip in the huge pool that the water makes though it is best to avoid bathing at the deep end. The 2km trek takes about an hour to get to complete, though the return journey is easier and can be managed in just about 40 minutes.

Peppara WLS

Peppara lies about 12km from a diversion that heads off the Thiruvananthapuram-Ponmudi Road, just before Vithura. The Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary provides a haven for birdwatchers and butterfly lovers. The Peppara Dam, built on the Karamana River, provides water to the sanctuary, as well as most of the district. The sanctuary includes part of the Palode and Kottoor reserve forests, covering an area of 53sq km. It is possible to do day long and overnight treks here, with permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden in Thiruvananthapuram, whose office also gives permits for trekking in the Neyyar Sanctuary.

Timings 8.00am–4.00pm Tel 0471- 2360762 Email ww-tvm.for@kerala. gov.in 

Lush forests line the course of the Kallar river

Kallar – The River of Stone

Located 16km before Ponmudi, this spot is so spectacular that it threatens to draw visitors away from Ponmudi. The Vamanapuram River takes the name Kallar, literally ‘the river of stone’, as the riverbed and banks here are crowded with boulders, rocks and smooth pebbles of all shapes, sizes and colours, left behind by landslides during the monsoons. Kallar is a small destination with a few tea shops which offer a reasonable lunch and excellent cups of tea, as well as Shaji’s Golden Valley River Resort. A kilometre from Kallar lies the Golden Valley, where the monsoons form a seasonal confluence of the Kallar river with a tributary.

Anappara

Around 6km beyond Kallar on the Thiruvananthapuram-Ponmudi Road just beyond Vithura, lies Anappara, a hamlet so tiny that it does not feature on all tourist maps. A winding, unpaved road from this village leads to Duke’s Forest Lodge, a lovely, traditional Kerala house, situated in a sprawling rubber plantation stretching across 130 acres. Five spacious cottages offer spectacular views from their balconies, each equipped with its own swimming pool. A sixth, thatched cottage offers a shared swimming pool. A gurgling brook, part of the Kallar river, separates the property from the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary. Duke’s Forest Lodge can arrange for treks to Meenmutti, Peppara and Bonacaud.

Tel 0472-2859272-74 Email info@ nikkisnest.in W dukesforestlodge.in

Neyyar Dam

The Neyyar Dam lies on the Thiruvananthapuram-Ponmudi Road and offers a beautiful, long stretch over the dam to walk across and gaze at the milky water thundering down the sluices. The park here has unusual, life-like statues of men engaged in various activities such as angling, operating a jack-hammer and taking photographs. Covered in rich vegetation, the Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary was set up in 1958. Spread over 128sq km over the Western Ghats, the Sanctuary lies in the drainage basin for the Neyyar river and its tributaries.

There are many things to do here. including crocodile watching, boating, trekking and yoga. The first of these activities can be pursued via the Wildlife Information Centre. Steps beside this office lead down to the Crocodile Protection Centre, where crocodiles can be seen sunning themselves languidly. Further ahead is a medicinal garden that houses 178 varieties of plants.

The Wildlife Information Centre also arranges trips to the Lion Safari Park. Established in 1984, this park is the home of nine Asiatic lions. The rickety, prehistoriclooking bus gives visitors the feeling that they’re travelling through Jurassic Park.

The District Tourism Promotion Council Boat Club organises boat rides across the waters. There are safari boats that can accommodate a maximum of 10 people (Fare ₹250 for 20 minutes; ₹400 for 30 minutes) and high-speed boats that can only accommodate four people (Fare Rs. 200 for 10 minutes). Close to the Boat Club is a watchtower, which offers a panoramic view of the dam. The boats will go around at least two of the six islands in the reservoir, where visitors might get to spot elephants, monkeys, sambar and some interesting birds. The ride also offers an excellent view of towering Agasthyamalai peak (6,129ft).

Boating Fare Safari Boat ₹400 for 20 minutes or ₹25 per head; High Speed Boat ₹250

In addition to this, the famous Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantri Ashram of Madurai has a branch here in Neyyar, only a 10-minute walk from the dam enroute to the Lion Safari Park. Visitors can come here to practice yoga or avail Ayurvedic treatments for various ailments.

Tel 0471-2273093

WHERE TO STAY

Stay at the KTDC’s Golden Peak (Tel: 0472-2890225/ 186, Cell: 09400008641; Tariff: ₹2,200–5,000). There is also a Government Guest House (Tel: 2890230; Tariff: ₹600), which must be booked in Thiruvananthapuram. You can rent rooms or cottages designed by Laurie Baker. Enroute to Ponmadi in Kallar lies the charming River County (Tel: 2786677, Cell: 09895577994; Tariff: ₹2,500–3,000), an island-like retreat surrounded by the Kallar River. There is a restaurant an adventure sports such as trekking can be arranged here.

You may also stay at Neyyar Dam. KTDC’s Tamarind Easy Hotel (Tel: 0471-2272160; Tariff: ₹1,000) has seven rooms and a restaurant. The charming Bio Veda Ayurvedic Hill Resort (Cell: 09645864754, 09447049021; Tariff: ₹1,800–3,000) has lovely cottages in great surroundings, offering Ayurveda and good food.

WHERE TO EAT

Options for restaurants and cuisines in Ponmudi are quite limited. Most visitors head to the KTDC Golden Peak Hotel or the Government Guest House. It is advisable to order basic local dishes here, for somewhat faster service and more recognisable meals.

Myths and Miracles

Like the abominable snowman who is said to leave his footsteps behind in the snowclad mountains of the Himalayas, many mythical creatures are believed to dwell in the forests of Kerala. While none are as monstrous as the Yeti, the animals that the tribes living here claim to have sighted in the forests are no less incredible: the white bison, a jungle cat that is not quite a leopard and pygmy elephants to name a few.

Pygmy Elephant

Sali Palode

Pygmy elephants – which are in fact known to exist in Africa – have, in recent years, sparked quite a controversy after photographer Sali Palode clicked what he claims are 5-ft-tall (or short!) elephants in the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary. Tribesmen in this region claim that these animals, though short, have all the characteristics of normal adult elephants, and are thus distinct from baby elephants. The first report of pygmy elephants came from members of the Kani tribe living in the Agasthyavanam forests. Experts spent many months trying to trace them, before dismissing this as make-believe. But these recent pictures have started yet another debate.

Deepa Anand