Pathanamthitta: Garden of the Gods

Every year, for centuries, several hundreds and thousands of pilgrims have made their way up the sacred slopes of the Sabari Hills to the abode of Ayyappa in Pathanamthitta, passing by the towns of Adoor, Pandalam and Thiruvalla. However, few other travellers walked this way, despite the obvious beauty and heritage of these places, even though visitors are attracted in droves to the neighbouring backwaters formed by the Pamba, Manimala and Achankoil rivers. Pathanamthitta is one of those rare tourist-free zones, just about ready to be discovered.

Those who do venture beyond the backwaters step into a land shaped by antiquity, the only place in the world where metal mirrors are still painstakingly hand-crafted, and where an entire village practices vaasthu vidya in its purest form as a community.

Here lies what some believe is the oldest church in India, built by St Thomas himself. Like the Sabarimala Sanctuary, this church draws hoards of devotees who come together in Asia’s largest Christian gathering, upon a dry river bed not far from the shrine in the month of February.

The sacred shrine of Sabarimala is located high up in the Ghats in the northeast corner of the district, looking down on the Periyar Sanctuary.

Thiruvalla, the biggest town, is located in the northwest corner of the district, near the borders of the Kottayam and Alleppey Districts. Thiruvalla, as well as its neighbouring villages, hold some of the finest examples of traditional Travancore architecture and crafts that one can witness.

The district is home to countless, rich and varied sights – the only temple in Kerala where Kathakali is performed as an offering to god, the Garuda Sthambha made of a single block of granite in 57 BCE, a church built in the style of a temple, a temple where menstruation is celebrated and worshipped, the Aranmula metal mirror, a rust resistant hourglass made of a special alloy, and many more – all beautifully protected from the intrusive presence of modern tourism.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Thiruvalla is the largest town in Pathanamthitta District. Located at the confluence of many state roads from Kottayam, Alleppey, Ambalapuzha as well as Thiruvananthapuram, it serves as an excellent reference point for uncovering Pathanamthitta’s secrets. The town itself has a number of sights, and one can comfortably spend a day or two here, exploring. A number of these are located within a 20km radius around town, such as the temples of Adoor, Pandalam and Chengannur, the churches of Niranam and Parumala, the cultural hub of Aranmula, and a quite a few warm and welcoming homestays tucked away in quiet villages. Further southeast from here is Pathanamthitta town, the district headquarters.

Sree Vallabha Temple, Thiruvalla

The magnificent 4000-year-old Sree Vallabha Temple occupies a sprawling complex on the banks of River Manimala in Thiruvalla. Here, visitors will find the Garuda Sthamba, constructed by Kerala’s legendary architect, Perunthachan. The stambha is a unique flag mast made from a single block of granite. Towering over at a height of 54 ft, it also extends 50ft into the ground, and is crowned by a stone idol of Garuda, the mount, or vahana, of Lord Vishnu. Today, only the very top of the sthamba is visible, encased in a structure built when it was noticed that the sthamba was beginning to tilt – the ‘Leaning Tower of Pathanamthitta’!

A beautiful 8-ft-tall idol of Sree Vallabha towers within the sanctum, flanked by another idol of Lord Sudarshana Moorthy. Both these idols are brought out, seated upon giant lumbering elephants, during the processions of the 10-day utsavam in the month of Kumbham February–March). As many as 12,000 bunches of padatti pazham a variety of yellow bananas) are offered to the gods on the first day of this festival.

The Sree Vallabha Temple also has the distinction of being the only Indian temple where Kathakali is performed as a daily offering to the gods. However, since performances are late at night, there are seldom any witnesses aside from the gods. However, the dancers always perform with a passion that is awe-inspiring for those who do witness them.

Timings 4.30–11.30am & 5:00– 8:00pm Kathakali Pooja 10.00pm–1.00am Main Festival 10-Day Utsavam in February & Uttaram Sreeveli in March Tel 0469-2700191
W srivallabhatemple.org

Sree Vallabha temple against the backdrop of a night sky

St John’s Cathedral, Thiruvalla

This relatively new cathedral, designed by architect Laurie Baker, was built to replace the original church that stood in Thiruvalla. The modern structure combines elements of contemporary architecture with the traditional Kerala aesthetics. Thus, one finds a copper covered roof and flag mast, outer walls flanked by stone lamps and pillars, and a huge brass lamp within the premises. The circular church can accommodate 2000 people, both in the cathedral as well as in the crypt. There is a sense of immense spaciousness, light and vibrancy inside the church, reflecting the priests’ belief that sitting upon Mother Earth with a sense of grounding and connection brings one closer to Christ.

Timings Morning Prayer 6.15am, Evening Prayer 6.15pm & Perpetual Adoration 6.00am–6.00pm (In the Crypt) W stjohnsmetropolitan cathedral.org

St. Mario’s Orthodox Church, Niranam

St. Mario’s Orthodox Church

The Niranam Church is one of the oldest churches in India, built in 54 CE and reconstructed four times since. It is counted among the seven-and-a-half churches said to have been established by St Thomas in Kerala. Within, there are 500-year-old urns, ancient chandeliers and aged brass lamps, which add to the sense of the church’s antiquity and legacy. To truly witness the beauty of the lamps and urns, it is advisable to visit after 3:00pm.

Location 7km from Thiruvalla on SH6 to Mavelikara Timings 6.00am–6.00pm Main Feast St Mary’s Feast, 1–8 September Tel 0469-2611006 W niranamchurch.com

Parumala Church

Three kilometres from Niranam on Mavelikara Road lies the Parumala Church. While some people believe that this is the first church in India, the Palayur Church near Guruvayur is widely accepted by most to have that distinction. The Parumala Church does have an air of history, and has been reconstructed several times.

The main prayer hall seems as if painted in strokes of light and space. Four massive pillars carry the weight of the whole building, believed to correspond with the four gospels, according to some of the priests here. Every evening the chanting of evening prayers fills the air, and, witnessing its vibrations, it is not difficult to believe that these chants have been echoing for 2,000 years now.

The church houses the tomb of St Geevarghese Mar Gregorious, the first saint of the Malankara church, popularly known as Parumala Thirumeni. Lakhs of devotees come here in November to pray to the saint during the feast of St Gregorious.

Main Feast The Feast of St Gregorious on 1 and 2 November Timings Monday–Saturday 5.00am–9.30pm W parumalachurch.com

The Goddess of Chengannur

The Chengannur Mahadeva Kshetram offers a stark contrast to the abode of Ayappa in east Pathanamthitta, and indeed to a number of temples across India. Here, rather than being treated with disgust and revulsion, menstruation is deeply celebrated. The goddess at this temple is none other than Parvathy, who shares the sreekovil with her husband, Lord Shiva.

It is believed that the goddess was menstruating when she visited Chengannur. Her natural feminine cycle is worshipped at the annual Thripoothe Arattu Festival, where devotees strain to touch the goddess’s pavada (feet).

Chengannur is also home to three of five temples believed to have been built in the region by the Pandava brothers from the Hindu epic Mahabharata\.

Location On MC Road Timings 3.50–11.30am & 5.00–8.00pm
Email [email protected] W chengannurtemple.com

Entrance to Chengannur Mahadeva Kshetram

The Maramon Convention

The Maramon Convention (W marthoma.in), which takes place in the dry bed of the Pamba river in Kozhencherry, 3km from Aranmula, is Asia’s largest congregation of Christians. The event originated from an effort to unify and thus counter the Latinisation of the Syrian Church by Portuguese missionaries in 1889, and is now organised by the Mar Thoma Evangelistic Association.

Parthasarathy Temple, Aranmula

The soul of the heritage village of Aranmula is the centuries old Sree Parthasarathy Temple. It is believed that the idol housed within the temple was carried along the Pamba River and brought here in a raft made with aru (six) pieces of mula (bamboo), leading to the name of this village – Aranmula. The Parthasarathy Temple is the most important of the five temples believed to have been built by the five Pandava brothers along the banks of the Pamba. Three of these are located in and around Chengannur. Each of these five temples corresponds with one of the five Pandava brothers: Yudhishthira is said to have established the temple at Thrichittattu, Bhima at Thripuliyoor, Nakula at Thiruvanvandoor and Sahadeva at Thrikodithanam, near Changanassery, and Arjuna here, in Aranmula.

This legendarily built temple is dedicated to Parthasarathy, who is none other than the charioteer Krishna. It was he who recited the Bhagavad Gita to Arjuna on the battlefield, in the Mahabharata; tradition defines their relationship as a guru-shishya one at times, and of deep camaraderie and love at others.

The great platform on which the temple stands is a testament to the power of the Pamba in the monsoons. Its eastern façade has 18 steps, wide enough for an elephant to climb. Eight beautiful elephants associated with the temple live in the anakottil (elephant stable).

Every year, the Aranmula Vallomkalli Boat Race commemorates the consecration of the 5-ft tall idol, believed to have been installed here 700 years ago, during the month of Chingam (August–September). The day of Lord Krishna’s birth, Ashtamirohini, is also celebrated with great fanfare, concluding with a beautiful snakeboat procession. The annual 10-day Koodiyattam Festival falls in the Malayalam month of Makaram (January–February).

Email [email protected] W aran mula.net

Vaasthu Vidya Gurukulam, Aranmula

The gurukulam at Aranmula is an excellent place to learn about vaasthu vidya, an ancient Indian science of eco-friendly construction and design that incorporates universal principles of creation. The institute’s art gallery across the road showcases artwork demonstrating age-old techniques used to create murals for temple walls. Prices for the mural paintings start from ₹3,000 per sq ft.

Location Near Parthasarathy Temple Tel 0468-2319740 W vastu vidyagurukulam.com

Devotees in the Parthasarathy Temple complex

Vijnana Kala Vedi, Aranmula

Louba Schild’s folk art school, set in a century-old building, is a mustsee in Aranmula. Visitors can enjoy Kathakali, Mohiniattam and Bharatanatyam, percussion as well as Kalaripayattu performances this haven of artistic traditions.

Location Tharayil Mukku Timings 10.00am–4.00pm Closed Weekends W vijnanakalavedi.org

Thekkekudi Cave Temple

Thekkekudi is a beautiful, 50-ft-high rock-cut cave temple dated to the 8th century CE. Built in the Pallava style of architecture, the carvings here are believed to be the earliest specimens of stone sculpture in Kerala.

Location 9km from Thiruvalla Timings 5.00–11.00am & 5.00–7.00pm Main Festival Thekkekudi Utsavam in December Tel 0469- 2619665

Valiya Koikkal, Pandalam

This nondescript town comes alive every year, at the time of the Sabarimala pilgrimage, Pandalam being the birthplace of Lord Ayyappa. It is said that the king of Pandalam found an abandoned baby and brought him up as his own son. The boy-prince was Ayappa, who left his palatial home to meditate in the cool forests of the Sabari Hills, where he has lived ever since. Ayappa’s ornaments are still sent to the Sabarimala Temple from his former home every year during the procession of Thiruvabharanam. The Valiya Koikkal Palace houses a silver representation of Ayappa and murals cover the outer walls of the sreekovil.

Location 18km south of Thiruvalla on MC Road

Devotional items for sale in Valiya Koikkal

Parthasarathy Gajamela, Adoor

The towering statue of Parthasarathy beside the temple pond offers a compelling reason to pause at Adoor. Crowds gather here for the Gajamela Festival in January to watch nine caparisoned elephants make their way slowly to the Chennapatti Temple, 3km away. Another good time to visit is during the celebrations for Lord Krishna’s birthday, Ashtamirohini, celebrated over 10 days with Ottanthullal, Mayooranritham as well as Velakali performances.

Location 35km south of Thiruvalla on MC Road Main Festival Utsavam in Medam (April–May)

WHERE TO STAY

The Hotel Hills Park (Tel: 0468- 2226262-63; Tariff: ₹2,000–3,000), with a multicuisine restaurant, is a good option. Pathanamthitta offers some excellent home stays.

Mannas Veedu (Tel: 0468- 2360399, Cell: 09447601239; Tariff: ₹12,500) is a beautiful homestay in Prakkanam, 8km from Pathanamthitta town. It offers seven rooms, homecooked meals, visits to rubber plantations and to the big sights of Pathanamthitta District including the elephant camp at Konni. Learn traditional Kerala cooking here.

Hevenly Homestay (Tel: 0469- 2682814, Cell: 09447072224; Tariff: ₹750–1,000) near the KSRTC stand in Mallapally, 11km north of Thiruvalla, offers two rooms, home-cooked meals and Ayurvedic treatments. The owners will arrange sightseeing tours in Pathanmthitta and to most of Kerala’s biggest destinations.

Thulasidhalam (Tel: 0469- 2662190; Tariff: ₹650) is a heritage homestay in Theliyoor, 10km from Thiruvalla. They offer trips to Konni, the breathtaking Perumthenaruvi Water Falls and Charal Kunnu Mountain. The week-long Urichi Koni (market), where traditional utensils are sold, is a draw in January- February. The homestay also runs a yoga centre, 4km from Theliyoor. From Thiruvalla, drive to Kumbanad and take the diverson for Theliyoor.

Just 5km south of Thiruvalla, on the glorious banks of the Pamba at Chengannur, is the best hotel in the district.

The eight-room Vanjipuzha Palace Heritage Resort (Tel: 0479- 2452004; Cell: 09447051332; Tariff: ₹750–1,500) was the former summer palace of the princely state of Vanjipuzha, once part of central Travancore. The present owner, Rajan Kannad, is very knowledgeable about the history and heritage of the Pathanamthitta region and is a very good source of information.

Thiruvalla’s best offering among a host of mid-range and budget hotels is Hotel Elite Continental (Tel: 0469- 2740160, Cell: 09061002153; Tariff: ₹1,400–3,000) and Club 7 (Tel: 3051111; Tariff: ₹2,500–7,000) near SCS Junction. They have a multicuisine restaurant, beer parlour and Inter-net. Another good option is Hotel Bessota International (Tel: 2631224-25; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,000). This too has a restaurant and a beer parlour.

WHERE TO EAT

Apart from the modest offerings of the chai kadas (tea shops), visitors will need to stick to their homestays or hotels for meals, as Pathanamthitta does not have a wide culinary selection when it comes to the number of restaurants.

Heavenly Homestay near the KSRTC stand in Mallapally, 11km north of Thiruvalla, offers warm homecooked meals, so does Mannaas Veedu in Prakkanam, which is 8km from Pathanamthitta town. Thiruvalla’s Hotel Elite and Club 7 both have multicuisine restaurants.

Inputs by Janaki Venkatraman

Aranmula Metal Mirrors

A rickety signboard in front of the nondescript building has Aranmula Metal Mirrors written on it in Malayalam, English and French. This is the house of P. Gopakumar, who comes from a family of craftsmen that has safeguarded the secrets of making the unique Aranmula metal mirrors for generations. This rare craft is incredibly sought after, by patrons as imposing as the Queen of England!

Non-refractive metal mirrors were originally used in Italy and Crete at least as far back as in 3000 BCE. At Khajuraho, there is a sculpture of a woman gazing at her reflection in a metal mirror, pointing to their presence in the subcontinent in the first millennium CE. Today, however, Aranmula is the only place in world where these are made anymore.

The story of how metal mirrors came to be manufactured in Aranmula is intriguing. A group of craftsmen were invited from Tamil Nadu to work at the Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple. Quite by chance, they discovered the reflective properties of the special alloy while making a crown. This alloy, comprising copper and white lead, is blended together in a particular ratio and poured into a clay mould, which, once cool, is broken open. These tasks require precision, skill and experience; four out of ten mirrors crack when the mould is broken open. Polishing the mirror is another task that requires skill, practice and perseverance; mirrors are polished with soft cloth for several long hours, before a final polishing with velvet. Finally, gleaming brass frames and handles are affixed with lac.

The size and prices of these mirrors varies, and they can be made to order with particular specifications as well. Orders will take upto two weeks to complete, depending on size.

Location Near the Parthasarathy Temple and opposite PWD Rest House
Email [email protected] W aranmulametalmirror.com