Pahalgam: Life by the Lidder

A bunch of kids run towards the camera, their giggling red cheeks and snotty noses filling up the frame. Outside the frame, in a small grassy clearing amidst a hilly forest, stand a few stately deodar trees and boulders. There’s a young man sitting on one of the rocks, waiting for the children. He’s their teacher, and this is a school that I have interrupted — a summer school for children of the shepherd households that move up here when the snow melts and go back down to their villages in winter. I chanced upon this open-air learning experience while walking in the hills here, not that far away from Pahalgam town itself. In a nutshell, this is what Pahalgam is all about. The small town offers a retreat next to the very pretty and very Himalayan Lidder River, along with a few unexpected surprises like a golf course and an amusement park. But close by is an altogether different world — a set of beautiful hillsides forested with tall pine trees. There are gentle walks by the river and through the woods to luxuriant meadows and endearing valleys.

Betaab Valley is named after the 1983 Bollywood flick that was shot here

Krishna Angira

Once a humble shepherd’s village (pahal = shepherd, gam = village), high up in the Himalayas at the confluence of two streams on the route to Amarnath, Pahalgam grew to become a popular tourist resort. All through the 70s and 80s, it was visited by hordes of pilgrims, trekkers and honeymooners. You really hadn’t seen India till you’d seen Kashmir, which really meant Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Then, the rise of militancy killed off tourism, and Pahalgam, forgotten by the world, reverted to its old self. However, with peace slowly coming back to the Valley, Pahalgam’s shrugged off its sleepy air and regained its status as one of the most important and popular tourist destinations in Jammu & Kashmir.

ORIENTATION

Pahalgam lies along the Lidder. As you approach the town from the south on the Khanabal-Pahalgam Road (KP Road) from Anantnag, you’ll find the Lidder on your left and forests all around you. On the way, you cross the small village of Ganshibal to your right, the Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports, and a few hotels. In the centre of town, near the main mosque, is a crossroads. The JKTDC Tourist Reception Centre is over here as well. Right from the crossroads will take you past a couple of hotels and the main Taxi Stand to a road running parallel to the main KP Road. This goes past the JKTDC guest house complex all the way to Laripora Village (which lies along Lidder East and has a number of guest houses next to the river) to the north of Pahalgam. From the crossroads, the road to the left crosses the Lidder and heads towards the town’s helipad and the Mamleshwar Temple.

The main KP Road winds its way through the town, passing shops, restaurants and hotels all the way past the village of Laripora, the heavenly Betaab Valley on the way to Chandanwari (16 km from Pahalgam), one of the base camps for the Amarnath Yatra. At Laripora, a turn-off to the right takes you back to the JKTDC huts. On the way is another fork, with a road heading to Baisaran. Instead, if you cross over the river just before Laripora, you’ll come to a fork right after the bridge. Turning left here will take you to Aru, via the Lidder Amusement Park and the Pahalgam Deer Park & Zoo. And to the right, is the golf course; the road heads past the golf course and several hotels, rejoining KP Road after Laripora.

The once humble shepherd’s village beside the Lidder River

Tribhuvan Tiwari

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Pahalgam used to be a one-and-a-half street town, but has grown in the past few years. The centre of the town has some shops, small restaurants, most of the hotels, the taxi and bus stands, and the Tourist Reception Centre. The reasons why Pahalgam has long been one of the most famous hill stations in India are the Lidder River and the simply stunning surrounding countryside.

The Lidder

Lidder River is what makes Pahalgam so alluring. The Lidder has two main tributaries — Lidder East (flowing from Sheshnag Lake) and Lidder West (from Kolahoi Glacier). The two streams tumble down the mountains and come together in a relatively flat and broad stretch right next to the town proper. There are mountains all around but just about enough space for the main street to run along the river for a bit, and for visitors to stretch their legs next to the streams, and even wet their feet in the snowmelt. Walking near the river bank is a rejuvenating experience; take a stroll around and chuck a few pebbles into the river at the Lidder View Park, right in the centre of town. During season, and on holidays, the riverside in the town can see hectic activity, with groups and families and couples in picnic mode.

For a different riverside experience, you can walk along Lidder East, past the golf course into Laripora Village. The Lidder East divides into two streams for a short stretch here; part of the village is on an island between the two streams. You will find hens and children bathing in the river, women washing clothes and ponies quenching their thirst.

Lidder Amusement Park

This park is around 2 km from the taxi stand, on the road to Aru, adjoining the Lidder West. It’s been controversial for not fitting into the Himalayan backdrop, but nevertheless, the 9-odd rides have become quite popular with the locals — don’t be surprised to see families from as far away as Srinagar come by on day trips. Across the road, the river offers great picnic and camping options right next to the flowing water.

Entry fee Adults ₹100 for 7 rides, children ₹25 for 4 rides Timings 9 am- 7 pm, Fridays closed Season April-November Mobile 09419746713

White water rafting on the Lidder

Sanjay Rawat

Pahalgam Deer Park and Zoo

Another kilometre ahead from the Lidder Amusement Park is the Pahalgam Deer Park and Zoo. It’s quite small but they’ve got a leopard, along with some deer and a bear. Makes a great trip for the kids but even the adults won’t complain about walking through the forested grounds.

Walk to Baisaran

There are also many walks to the lakes and meadows scattered all around Pahalgam. The most popular of these walks is the one to a large meadow called Baisaran (1½ hour walk), surrounded by magnificent pine trees. You can also opt for a pony ride (₹350 per hour) or drive up here (6 km from the Pahalgam taxi stand), but the road (more of a dirt track) is not in the best shape so check with the local authorities or your hotel before setting off. The tea and snack stalls at Baisaran make it a great picnic spot.

Mamleshwar Temple

For those interested in history, Pahalgam is home to the ancient Shaivite Mamleshwar Temple. In Mamal village, across the Lidder, the shrine (also known as Mamalika Temple) is believed to date back to the 12th century CE reign of King Jayasimha and is still in use today — making it perhaps the oldest surviving temple in the Kashmir Valley.

Betaab Valley

Halfway along the Chandanwari Road lies Betaab Valley (8 km), a gorgeous expanse by the Lidder offering fantastic views of the Himalayas. Made famous by (and named after) the Sunny Deol-Amrita Singh flick that was shot here, Betaab Valley (earlier known as Hagan Valley) is a picture-perfect little expanse of green with a river flowing through it and mountains as a backdrop. The tourism department has built a park here (Entry fee ₹20), on a little island that splits the river. Take a stroll or a pony ride. You’ll also find snacks stalls outside the park.

TIP Hire taxis from Pahalgam’s official stand; ponies can be hired in the market

Pahalgam’s 18-hole high-altitude Himalayan golf course

Rafting and Adventure Sports

Pahalgam’s also the right destination if you’d like to take up adventure sports in a serious fashion. The renowned Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports (Tel: 01936-243129, Mob: 09906967830, Website: jawaharinstitutepahalgam.com), on the KP Road just before Pahalgam, offers a wide variety of adventure sports courses — from mountaineering and rafting to paragliding and outdoor skills for children. Operators offer rafting on the Lidder a little below Pahalgam; you will see them as you drive in to Pahalgam.

Mountain Magic Trek n Tours (Contact Ibrahim; Mobile: 094692 84249; Website: mountainmagictours. com) and Jungle Guide Adventures Trek & Tour (Contact Imran; Mobile: 09419923810, Email: [email protected]) are two good operators who undertake white water rafting in Pahalgam. The white water rafting season here extends from April 1 to August 15. Approved rates are ₹400 for a short rafting ride (2 km) and ₹800 for a long ride (5 km).

Pahalgam Golf Course

Avid golfers would be doing themselves a disservice if they don’t play a round at the Pahalgam Golf Course, across the Lidder on the western side of the town. Renovated a few years ago, this Himalayan course is now a proper 18 holes. It offers much you won’t find in a big city — cool air at this altitude, the craggy Himalaya visible from anywhere on the course, the Lidder flowing nearby… Contact the CEO, Pahalgam Development Authority (Tel: 01936- 243049, Mobile: 09419594280) to tee off.

Fishing

The Lidder and other small streams are also packed with enough trout to make a day spent angling worth your while. Don’t forget your fishing license (₹1,000 for 6 fish) from the Department of Fisheries in Srinagar (Gogjibagh, Jawahar Nagar, Tel: 0194-2312046; Website: jkfisheries.in). You won’t be able to get one in Pahalgam.

A field of asters makes a floral carpet for a Pahalgam hotel

Courtesy Senator pine ‘n’ peak

Kashmir’s trekking capital

Just out of Pahalgam, you’re in picture-postcard territory: Grassy meadows, tall peaks, frothy streams and tall fir trees. Baisaran can be done as a day trek or on horseback but there are other longer, and tougher, options for the experienced trekker.

Tulian Lake (11,811 ft), to the south west of Pahalgam via Baisaran, is a 10-12 km, 2-day return trek for experienced hikers. Another trek close by is to Sheshnag Lake (12 km from Chandanwari) on the Amarnath trail. But one of the best treks you’ll find anywhere is the Kolahoi Glacier Trek, via Lidderwat. This follows the course of the Lidder River from Pahalgam up to the Kolahoi Glacier, Kashmir Valley’s largest. From Pahalgam, you spend a day walking up the Lidder valley to the village of Aru (12 km). The trek proper (3-day return from Aru) begins after that, up the Lidder West, through alpine meadows and boulders around the Kolahoi massif, before arriving at the glacier itself. Right in the middle of the Great Himalayan Range, this is one of the easier glaciers to get to. Lidderwat (9 km from Aru; 2-day return) is a gorgeous Himalayan meadow that is a good choice for a shorter trek.

Many trekking agencies offer the Kolahoi Glacier trek, including Mountain Magic Trek n Tours (Mobile: 094692 84249) and Jungle Guide Adventures Trek & Tour (Mobile: 09419923810) in Pahalgam. Approximate cost is ₹10,000- 15,000 per person (depending on size of group) for a 2N/ 3D trek, inclusive of boarding, lodging, guide and porters. The Leh-based Northern Escapes (Mobile: 09871511133, 09868013714, Website: northernescapes.in) also conduct treks to Kolahoi Glacier for ₹25,000-30,000 per person for a 7-day trek, inclusive of porters, guide, boarding and lodging.

WHERE TO STAY

Most hotels are located in and around the main market or along KP Road all the way till Laripora. There are also a few across the Lidder, near the golf course.

Grand Mumtaz Resorts (Mobile: 09013527195, 09810616990; Tariff: ₹9,000-13,000), a massive property, is the town’s classiest — it has lovely views, is in peaceful surroundings, and offers good service and food. Pine Palace Resort (Tel: 01936-254466; Tariff: ₹7,000-10,500) is giving it competition, but Pahalgam’s best seems to be the Senator Pine’ N’ Peak (Tel: 243210; Tariff: ₹12,000- 30,000), close to the amusement park. Also around this part of town are the Alpine Inn (Tel: 243065, Mobile: 09906756030; Tariff: ₹4,000, with meals), a small-but-cosy gem of a place. Or try Hotel Heevan (Tel: 243219; Tariff: ₹10,000-23,000).

Among several high end options are: Hotel Pahalgam (Tel: 243252; Tariff: ₹12,000-14,000) in the main market, an old favourite around since 1931. It has a nice lawn overlooking the river. Hotel Woodstock (Tel: 243219; Tariff: ₹6,200-8,800) is next door, also with a lawn, but its bulky stone look does not gel with the surroundings. The Mansion (Tel: 243354/ 56; Tariff: ₹8,500-13,000) is at the beginning of Laripora Village and its Lidder-facing rooms have lovely views. Hotel Mountview (Tel: 243221, 243321; Tariff: ₹8,900-9,900) offers a gym and a pool table. Hotel Natraj (Tel: 243225; Tariff: ₹4,000-12,500) is nestled in the woods 500m from the main Taxi stand and Volga (Tel: 243292; Tariff: ₹4,000-6,000, with meals) has basic but clean rooms in the market.

A field of asters makes a floral carpet for a Pahalgam hotel

JKTDC’s Hotel Complex & Tourist Bungalow (Tel: 243224; Tariff: ₹2,500- 6,000) has fine cottages on the hillside just above the town. Boasting a stunning view of the surrounding pine-covered slopes by the Lidder River, the pretty little Himalaya House (Tel: 243072/ 51; Tariff: ₹4,500-7,000) is a great place to enjoy the charms of Pahalgam. Pine Grove (Mob: 09419015970; Tariff: ₹6,500, with meals) has nice woody interiors.

Near the bus and taxi stands are a few places like Hotel Tulyan (Tel: 243096; Tariff: ₹3,300-4,400) and Highlands (Tel: 243492; Tariff: ₹3,500-5,500). Walk on a bit further from the taxi stand towards Pine View Road and you’ll find Hotel Hilltop (Tel: 243466; Tariff: ₹7,500-9,500), earlier called Pine View, with a restaurant. A little ahead is Hill Park (Mob: 09419016869; Tariff: 5,000, with two meals), a sprawling property with some surprisingly basic rooms.

Towards the Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and some distance from the bustle of the main market is Himalayan Discover Resort (Tel: 243012; Tariff: ₹5,000-6,000, with meals), which offers simple but clean rooms.

You’ll also find a couple of places on the road to Aru. These are a great choice if you’ve got your own car. Pine Valley Guest House (Tel: 243065; Tariff: ₹4,000, with meals) at Mandalan is run by the same folks who own Alpine Inn and offers cottages and rooms. Travellers’ Inn (Mob: 09906505354; Tariff: ₹3,500) is a friendly place with simple rooms and a near-perfect location by the Lidder. Or try Yenas Lodge (Mobile: 09906764716; Tariff: ₹2,500).

Laripora Village has many hotels and lodges. Forest Hill (Tel: 243151; Tariff: ₹3,800-4,400), right next to the Lidder East has 20 rooms with TV. They also have a golf putting green. Also in Laripora but not as fancy are Valley View (Tel: 243111-12; Tariff: ₹7,500, with meals), Brown Palace (Tel: 243255, Mobile: 09469284249; Tariff: ₹2,300-12,000, with meals) and Paradise Inn (Tel: 243009-10; Tariff: ₹5,500-6,900).

WHERE TO EAT

For your meals, there’s a slew of small dhabas sprinkled around Pahalgam market, on the KP Road and in Laripora. The Punjabi Rasoi dhaba, close to the bus stand, offers cheap and hearty vegetarian fare and is always packed. Dana Pani in the main market is popular for its simple and affordable North and South Indian vegetarian fare, including paranthas and dosas.

In the hotels, Hotel Pahalgam has quite a few options: The Pine Retreat coffee shop or Café Log Inn are a good choice for light meals. The latter, a stylish joint next to the entrance of Hotel Pahalgam, serves pizzas, burgers, coffee and kahwa. But the pick of the town has to be the Troutbeat specialty restaurant, which offers fresh trout from the Lidder. The Senator Pine’ N’ Peak has two restaurants — Lolaab, Saahil and a coffee shop. Hotel Tulyan’s popular Nathu’s Rasoi, right behind the taxi stand, offers Indian and Chinjabi food.

Other popular places include the Volga’s The Lounge coffee shop and Cook’s Corner buffet restaurant. The restaurant at Heevan serves Gujarati and Continental cuisine apart from Kashmiri, Chinese and North Indian. There’s a café here offering splendid views of the Lidder. Grand Mumtaz has a multi-cuisine restaurant, Samovar, and a coffee shop as well.

AROUND PAHALGAM

Ziarat of Sheikh Zain-ud-Din Wali, Aishmuqam (19 km)

About 18 km back toward Anantnag from Pahalgam, a left turn from the KP Road at Aishmuqam takes you to the shrine of Hazrat Zain-ud-din Wali, a 15th century Sufi mystic who was a disciple of Sheikh Baba Noor-ud-din Wali of Charar-e-Sharief. Legend has it that Zain-ud-din was a prince who was taken ill and after being cured by the Sheikh, devoted his life to spirituality. The hillside green-roofed structure is visible from the main road. A flight of stairs leads to the shrine. There are around 250 steps, so keep that in mind. A spacious compound usually has villagers relaxing and taking in the views. The mausoleum itself is set in a cave in the hillside.

A storage room attached to the shrine is also said to hold some important relics, including a ‘wooden bread’ the mystic used to drive away hunger. Another interesting relic, one that hasn’t been publicly seen in years, is an old staff said to have been given to Baba Zain-ud-din by Sheikh Noor-uddin Wali himself. A legend attached to the shrine claims that the staff originally belonged to Moses and was later also used by Jesus.

Aru (12 km)

Martand Sun Temple (35 km)

Pahalgam