Nallamala Hills: The Tranquil Retreat

Home to expansive forests, pristine waterfalls and the largest tiger reserve in India, the Nagarjunasagar-Srisailam Reserve, the Nallamala Hills are the premier destination in the state for nature lovers. The hills are also home to Srisailam, a major pilgrimage site, though after the bifurcation of the state, it became a part of Andhra Pradesh.

The hills, a part of the Eastern Ghats, have an average elevation of 1,500ft to 2,000ft. The highest peaks are Bhairani Konda (3,048ft) and Gundla Brahmeshwara (2,964ft). The forests, of the tropical dry deciduous type, have about 1,500 flowering species, of which 353 are known to have medicinal properties.

The hills have many plateaus, though it is largely uninhabited apart from a few clusters of Chenchu settlements. Chenchus, the aboriginal inhabitants of the region, earlier subsisted on fees collected for guarding the hill tracks and routes and by gathering forest produce and hunting animals. With civilisation encroaching into the forest, their traditional way of life has been unsettled and now many have turned to agriculture, cattle rearing and selling honey and other such items.

TIP Visit during the week as day trippers from all over the state throng to the hills on weekends and holidays. During winter, it can get cold in the mornings

ORIENTATION.

The Nallamala Hills are spread over an area of 9,000sq km, of which 60 per cent is in Telangana. The NH 765, which originates from Hyderabad, runs through the hills all the way to Andhra Pradesh. The entry point for the hills in Telangana is Munnanur. Further to the south, there is Mallela Theertham and then. Uma Maheshwaram, slightly off this route, can be reached from the Mahbunagar-Achampet Road (SH 20).

THINGS TO SEE

Uma Maheshwaram Temple

Close to Achampet, on a hill of the Nallamala range, there is a cliff with rock formations quite unlike any other in the vicinity. Nestled in the rocks, lies the Uma Maheshwaram temple dedicated to Shiva. It is the northern gateway to Srisailam and one of the jyotirlingas. The shrine was historically an important stopover for those making the pilgrimage to Srisailam.

Not much is known about the history of the temple, though some speculate that it was built in the 2nd century CE. The shrine is made of stone and there is a statue of Uma-Maheshwar at the entrance that has been painted over. The linga of the temple is unique in colour – it is white on one side and red on the other. Further ahead, there are numerous shrines dedicated to serpent deities. At Papanasham, a short walk away, there is a continuous stream of water originating from the rocks. There is an ancient temple tank at the base of the hill. The location of the temple is such that hardly any sunlight falls on it throughout the day, which keeps the environs cool.

Uma Maheshwaram Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva

Syed Saad Ahmed

Directions: From Achampet, head east on the road to Mannanur. After about 9km, turn south and continue for 4km. From here, the road goes steeply uphill to the temple. You can also ascend on foot using the staircase next to the temple tank.

Mannanur

Although Mannanur itself is not a tourist destination, you will have to cross-through here, as it is the entry point for Nallamala. There is a forest department check post (Toll for Heavy Vehicles: ₹10, Light Vehicles: ₹20) here that is closed from 9.00pm to 6.00am to regulate traffic.

At Mannanur, there is a rather forgettable Environment Education Centre (Timings: 9.00am–1.00pm; 3.00–6.00pm; Ticket: ₹5), which has basic information about the forests and the Chenchu tribe. There is also a Forest Department office here, where you can ask for permission to visit restricted areas of the jungle, though it is not usually granted to tourists.

TIP Mannanur is a good place to stop for a cup of tea and stock up on food for the journey ahead

Farahabad

Driving from Mannanur through the Nallamala forest, you will come across various trails off the highway that lead deeper into the forest. However, the only place tourists are officially allowed is the Farahabad Tiger View Point. About 17km ahead of Mannanur, on the NH 765 that goes to Srisailam, there is a sharp left turn, which is the entry point to Farahabad. From here, a dirt road goes uphill to the edge of a cliff, known as Farahabad Tiger View Point. Private vehicles are not allowed on this road, so tourists must take the jungle safari (Timings: 9:00am–5:00pm; Fee: Rs. 800, max 6 persons). The safari covers a return journey of 16km in 1.5 hours.

Farahabad was once the summer resort and hunting grounds of the Nizams. At the beginning of the safari, you can see the Nizam’s mansion on the left. Further ahead, the road forks out – the left road, that goes through Chenchu villages, is the old pilgrimage route to Srisailam, while the road on the right goes up to the view point. There are two watch towers en route – a great vantage point for the canopy of forests covering the hills, but not as good for wildlife spotting due to the undulating terrain. Sightings are rare throughout the sanctuary, but if you are lucky, you might come across spotted deer, porcupines, a variety of birds and perhaps a sloth bear. The Farahabad Tiger View Point is a rather misleading name as it is next to impossible to spot tigers or other big cats. However, the spectacular view from the cliff makes the long journey worth it. In the valley, you can see an unbroken blanket of forests and a lake in the middle. During the monsoon season, the verdure is denser and shrouded in mist.

There are many temples deep inside the forest – Bhalrapur, Saileshwaram and Kadilivanam. There is also a Shivalayam in a valley 30km from Mannanur. The temple as well as the roads leading to it are closed throughout the year, except for five days around the poornima (full-moon night) of Chaitra (March–April).

TIP On weekends and holidays, there is a long queue for the safari, so you might have to wait to get your turn

Detailed carvings at Gopala Swamy Temple, Jatprole

Mallela Thirtham

Deep inside the forests of Nallamala, a stream falls from a height of 150ft on a shivalinga. The waterfall, known as Mallela Thirtham, is a popular destination for picnicking, trekking and camping. The stream eventually joins the Krishna and there are many smaller waterfalls along its course downstream. A fence has been built around the pool formed by the waterfall. Swimming and bathing are not permitted here – a move that has helped keep the place clean and orderly. Interestingly, locals say that bathing in the waterfall makes one’s skin fairer – a legend only an Indian could have come up with.

From the parking lot, you have to climb down about 360 steps to reach the waterfall. If you are feeling adventurous, you can climb the rock formations along the falls for an aerial view and trek along the course of the stream deeper into the forest.

Directions: From Mannanur, proceed on the NH 765 for 26km up till Vatavarlapalli, a small village with plenty of dhabas. Turn left here and continue for 8km through fields and forests to reach the waterfall. There is a daily bus from Achampet to Mallela Theertham at 7.00am, which makes the return journey at 9.30am. Buses going to Srisailam can drop you off at Vatavarlapalli. However, it is difficult to find transport from here to the falls, so it is best to hire a taxi if you want to explore at leisure.

Entry ₹10 Timings 8.00am–5.00pm Parking Car ₹20 Motorcycle ₹10

Grand façade of the palace at Kollapur

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The only accommodation option in Nallamala Hills is the Vanamalika Forest Guest House (Cell: 09505422092, 09440476242; Tariff: ₹600–1,000; Parking: ₹10) in Mannanur, which has AC and non-AC cottages. Although the rooms are set around a pleasant garden, they are rather rundown. Service here is non-existent and the reception is often empty, so it might take you a few hours to book a room. The guesthouse has a canteen and there are plenty of other dhabas in Mannanur.

If you value creature comforts, you can opt to stay in Gadwal or Mahbubnagar where there are several stay options (see p202). There are Haritha hotels in Somasila and Jatprole, that are expected to start functioning soon, though neither were operational at the time of research. Inquire from the tourism office regarding their status.

AROUND NALLAMALA HILLS

Kollapur (93km)

The samasthan of Kollapur once held sway over large tracts of the Nallamala hills. The palace of the rulers is still a major landmark of the town. However, the monument is privately owned and tourists are not permitted to enter. However, you could take permission from the guard to view the exteriors of the palace. The other attraction here is the Madhava Swamy Temple. The temple is thought to have been built in the 16th century by the rulers of Jatprole.

TIP There are barely any eateries in Jatprole, Kollapur and Somasila and the roads connecting them, so stock up on food

Somasila (103km)

A scenic road from Kollapur snakes through hilly forests and comes to an end at Somasila, about 10km away. There are 15 temples here, each of which houses a shivalinga. They are set in a sprawling complex, whose gardens are a popular picnic spot. Next to the temple complex is a museum where sculptures are arranged around a courtyard. The temples here were shifted from the older Somasila village to prevent it from bein inundated in the waters of the Srisailam reservoir.

Devotees flock here during the festivals of Shivaratri and Kartik Poornima. The Pushkar snanam (ritual dip) here during the Krishna Pushkaram, which occurs once in 12 years, is considered auspicious.

The Krishna river gently runs along the village and then disappears behind mountains to join the reservoir. At the end of the village road, the view of the river twisting between hills to blend into the horizon makes you feel as if you have arrived at the end of the world. Once the Haritha Hotel starts functioning, Somasila would be the perfect destination to retreat from civilisation.

Sculpture at the museum of Somasila

TIP There are no boating facilities along the river, but you could request the fisherfolk to take you around in exchange for a tip

Jatprole (106km)

Few tourists make it to Jatprole, but he temple complex here is worth he journey. The main shrine here is dedicated to Agastyeshwara Swamy. Like most temples in the region, these too were shifted here after the construction of the reservoir.

Near by is a Gopala Swamy Temple. The temple’s towering vimana and carvings are exquisite. A Haritha Hotel is under construction close to the Agastyeshwara Swamy temple complex.