My first day in Leh, I fancied I detected a strain of worry in
On day two, we were still being acclimatised and the itinerary included Khardung La and a leisurely tour of a couple of Leh’s fine monasteries. On our way back, there was a shout — we pulled up and brought out the big lens. The weather on Stok Kangri was clearing, and only a few wisps of dark cloud still clung to the peak. For the first time since we arrived we could see it fully. It is a beautiful mountain.
The next day, from admiring the scenery we went into it. Our group of six: Aman Nugyal, Amit Sharma, Takako ‘Coco’ Inamori, Aaron Wolff, Rajesh Huddar and I. Assisting Pankaj with guide-work were Chain Singh and local boy Rigzin Tamchos. The route took us past Spituk Gompa and over the mighty Indus; the bridge so heavily adorned with prayer flags I was only able to see the river through the chinks. Then from a point in Zingchan, we started to walk, making our way through rain to stop at Rumbak (9,842 ft). This was the first time I was trekking at elevations so high. The two days spent in Leh getting used to the thin air helped, but not enough. The trek was arduous enough but the challenges piled up with the weather. Ladakh’s summer, July to September, is known for its congenial temperatures — climate change, however, knocks all assumptions out of reckoning. It had been raining incessantly: the streams were swelling, and we were obliged to trek and camp in the rain.
I puzzled the first couple of days at my fatigue — not all your reading of how altitude affects the human body prepares you for the fact of it. Terrain I thought I should be traversing with reasonable ease became formidable; my feet seemed dipped in treacle, my breath dragged in far less than I needed. It was lowering. If the first foray was gruelling, the second day was tougher still. We headed to Mounkarmo (13,944 ft) via the cruelly placed Stok La pass (16,043 ft). Footsteps became small and great effort was needed to make even minuscule advances. Once over the hump though, we skied down mud paths, and made quick work of the descent. When we finally tramped into camp, I sat down to watch lammergeiers in the cliffs surrounding us.
So far, we had been circling Stok Kangri like wary boxers. It was time to make a move. Day Three saw us make a bold stroke — we moved to Stok Kangri Base Camp (16,322 ft). This, I must say, is something like an international camping festival. A wide-ish meadow with a stream running by, it is a necessary pit stop for trekkers on their way up and those on their way down. A shack here provides the essentials — instant noodles, energy bars, chocolate, beer and rum. Tents of every hue are pegged here, and the scene has campers walking about, kitchen fires going with wholesome aromas, and mules and horses tethered here and there, nibbling at grass and at each other. I fell asleep to the hum of voices and the jangle of mule-bells.
We were now to see the whites of the eyes of our target — Advanced Bas Camp (17,438 ft). A flattering name, for all it is really is a pile of rocks, with barely enough room for four tents. Our cook Ravinder conjured up some divine khichdi and soup, and we all huddled into the kitchen tent to tuck in. The air was nippy — Stok Kangri (20,187 ft) was sending out tendrils of biting cold to run their fingers down our spines.
The summit push
Our bid for the summit started, as these often do, in the middle of the night. The plan was to climb up to a ridge on the mountain and then crawl along the ridge to the summit. The weather seemed fine and would hold out, God willing. Layers of clothing were donned, miner head-lamps were fastened, a preparatory cup of tea was imbibed with biscuits. We set off over rocks at first and then over the glacier, stamping to keep the ice off our shoes, digging in the pick axes as we scrambled for purchase. We began to climb in earnest. A trail of sorts there was, but difficult to pick out in the dark. All I was sure of was the direction: up. In the distance behind and ahead of me, I saw headlamps bobbing in the dark. About 20 trekkers were trying to summit that day.
A few hours into the foray and it started to get light over the east. The sun crept up from behind snow-rimmed peaks, lighting them an eerie and utterly gorgeous orangey-yellow. I was tiring. Some of the others in my group had long gone ahead. Nausea rose up my chest and I was beginning to get light-headed. Rigzin was with me, holding my hand to prevent me falling, sometimes dragging me, sometimes urging me on. Stopping, gasping, grunting, moving… Some time after daylight, I staggered onto the ridge and flung myself down.
I was wondering if I should climb on. My tired mind came up with reasons for ‘not’. I saw no glory in struggling on for the next two or three hours, in such a state as I was in, dragged across by a guide. On the other hand, now that I had made the ridge, I should wait for 10 or perhaps 20 minutes. A renewal of energy would put a different spin on things. This would not be the first time I had been intimidated by challenges that I eventually tackled.
It was not to be, though. Coco, who had reached about 330 ft from the summit, had collapsed. She had to be given oxygen and brought down quickly. While those close to the peak would go on, it would be difficult for the expedi-tion to guide me to the summit as well. Fate had taken a hand and made up my mind for me. So I took in the view of the magnificent Karakoram, took a few pictures and descended.
Ladakh and Stok Kangri beckon climbers like a flame. Over the six days we walked, we must’ve encountered at least 200 trekkers, a large majority of whom were foreigners. On the way to Mounkarmo, through the high pass of Stok La, there was a veritable traffic jam and my head hurt from nodding at passing trekkers, porters and pack-mules. “Juley”, we all went, bonhomous in a fellowship of trekkers.
Why do people climb mountains? The famous retort is ‘because they’re there’. Nearly everyone agrees that mountain-climbing is an internal business. The mountain is inside you, and the obstacles. Whether you summit or not, there are lessons for everyone — character faults loom before you, personality-driven walls come up slap in your way. Your belief matters. What effort you consider significant matters. How kamikaze you’re prepared to be in your attainment of a goal matters.
And so it was that three of six touched down on the peak of Stok Kangri and three of us didn’t. I shall probably keep trekking, so if an opportunity like this comes offered on a platter again, I’ll take it as if it was meant.
THE INFORMATION
When to go Stok Kangri (20,187 ft), the highest mountain in the Stok Range, is among the most popular summits to scale. This is due to its proximity to Leh (24 km), and also because it is one of the few peaks over 6,000 metres that is a trekker’s mountain, requiring no special equipment or expertise in the summer months (July-September). Later in the year, it does need mountaineering skill
Permits Foreign nationals will need a permit (USD 50 per person) to ascend from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (The Director, IMF, 6, Benito Juarez Road, New Delhi-110021; Tel: 011-24111211; Website: indmount.org). Permits are also issued at their branch in Leh. Contact Everest hero Sonam Wangyal (Mobile: 09697459678)
Operators We climbed with adventure operators Aquaterra (₹55,815 plus air fare; Delhi Tel: 011-29212641, 29212760; Mob: 09811103831; Web: aquaterra.in), who have a well-designed 10-day trip that builds in acclimatisation as well as a spectacular trekking route. A night was allowed at the Base Camp, one more at the Advanced Base Camp and the ascent was made the following day. Among other reputed operators are Rimo Expeditions (Gurgaon Tel: 0124-2806027-29, Leh Tel: 01982-253348, 251897; Website: rimoexpeditions.com) and Snow Leopard Trails (Delhi Tel: 011-26133165, 26124788; Website: ladakh-tour.com).
Acclimatisation It is inadvisable to land in Leh and climb Stok Kangri before acclimatising. Weather conditions on Stok Kangri are notoriously unpredictable which can be dangerous for the under-prepared. It’s a trekking peak, but not to be underestimated
Jammu Kashmir & Ladakh Guide
Ladakh
Zanskar Range
