Kondagattu: The Sacred Grove

Legend has it that about 300 years ago, there was a cattle herder who came to Kondagattu while searching for his lost buffaloes. After a very tiring pursuit, he fell asleep on a hillock. In his dreams, Lord Anjaneya came to him and revealed the whereabouts of the buffalos. When he woke up, he found a glowing statue of the deity next to him. As a gesture of gratitude, the shepherd built a temple for Lord Anjaneya on the hill. Today, there is a large temple at the same spot, surrounded by sacred groves and gently sloping hillocks. The Anjaneya Swamy Temple attracts devotees and tourists from all over the state. It is believed that the present structure of the temple was constructed by Krishna Rao Deshmukh around 160 years ago.

There is a parking lot near the entrance of the temple complex. Here you will find many beggars and fortune tellers (most of whom speak only Telugu) armed with a pack of cards and a wise parrot. Under a shed nearby, priests conduct vahana poojas – prayers to bless vehicles, usually newly-bought tractors or motorcycles. As you go ahead, you will come across small boards mentioning the name of patrons who donated to the temple. Further to the right, is a line of shops selling items for pooja rituals and snacks. At the southeastern corner of the temple, is a small tank where you can see devotees bathing and washing clothes. Next to the tank, pilgrims get their heads shaved as a part of the ritual.

The temple is rectangular in plan with a grand gopuram at the entrance that opens into a courtyard. The architecture of the temple is completely functional and devoid of many decorative elements. Several unsightly accoutrements have been added – the courtyard has been closed off with a metallic roof and grills have been installed around the sanctum sanctorum to control the flow of devotees. Apart from Anjaneya, the temple also has idols of Venkateshwara and Laxmi. To the east of the temple, you can buy prasad – pulihore and laddoos. At the time of research, the temple complex and its surroundings were undergoing renovation. A larger temple tank has been built to the northeast of the temple, though it is not being used yet.

Near the new temple tank, a rocky path downhill leads to the Muneeshwara Guha. You have to remove your shoes at the beginning of the trail and walk between fissures in the rocks to reach the guha (cave). The grotto is dark, save for a few lamps lit for prayers. Inside, there is a shivalinga and small statues of Muneeshwara and Yellama. The cavern is a preferred spot for conducting exorcist rituals on young women to rid them of evil spirits. The shrieks of the possessed resonating within further amplify the claustrophobia of the cave.

Located behind the Anjaneya Swamy temple, is a recently built structure dedicated to Betala Swamy. Between the two, there is a water tank and a mass of boulders. Climb up to the top of these boulders for sweeping views of the temples and the surrounding forests. To the west of the Betala Swamy temple, a trail leads into the forests to an ancient well. In case you are not religiously inclined, the forests around the shrine are as much of a draw as the temple itself.

About a kilometre away from Anjaneya Swamy, there is a small shrine known as Bojapottana. A trail behind this temple leads into the adjacent forest and is a preferred spot for young men with a fondness for alcohol.

Entry Free Timings 4.00am–8.30pm

TIP Keep a stick handy to ward off monkeys, especially if you plan to venture deep into the forests

Where to Stay & Eat

Telangana Tourism’s Haritha Hotel (Cell: 09491677931; Tariff: ₹599–999) is the only option to stay here. On offer are 15 well-maintained rooms with attached bathrooms, and their restaurant serves vegetarian south Indian meals. There are a few small eateries in the town selling the usual idli, dosa and thali.

AROUND KONDAGATTU

Jagtial Qila (14km)

The town of Jagtial is famous for its star-shaped fort. It was built in 1747 CE by French engineers at the behest of Mirza Ibrahim Khan Dhamsa, who also held sway over the forts of Elgandal and Nirmal.

Built of stone and lime mortar, the fortification encloses a sprawling field that is largely empty. Tall and thorny bushes that harbour snakes have taken over the fort. However, amidst the vegetation, you can still find an old stepwell. There are also a few extant chambers along the ramparts, which were earlier used to store weapons. There were many cannons inside which have now been arranged in a semi-circular fashion at either end of the fort. There were revenue buildings inside that collapsed in the 1930s.

The dilapidated entrance of Jagtial Quila

The fort is surrounded by a deep moat, which is now clogged with garbage. There are two gates at the entrance, of which the inner one has carvings. The earlier entrance gate, made of wood, has now disappeared. Earlier, there used to be another entrance at the back of the fort. The main structure was built next to the Kandlapelli lake, which supplied water to the moat. There is a mosque next to the fort whose structure has been completely modernised. The fort is usually desolate and the only person you are likely to meet is the caretaker, B Laxman, who enthusiastically explains the history of the place in Telugu with a smattering of Hindi.

Entry Free Timings 10.30am–5.00pm Closed on Friday and government holidays

TIP Wear long trousers or denims and sturdy hiking shoes to protect yourself from the thorny scrubs and snakes

Raikal (36km)

The Keshavanatha temple at Raikal, locally known as Gudikota, was built in the Chalukyan style in the 11th century. The trikutalaya (three shrines) stone temple, crowned with three commanding spires, is thought to have been part of a larger fort. However, now you cannot see a fort or even the remains of one around the temple, which is located in a densely built up area.

Beautifully sculpted reliefs outside Keshavanatha temple

The temple, set in a landscaped garden, has been restored, though many unsightly additions – tiled floors, metallic grills and electrical fixtures – have been incorporated into the structure. The presiding deity of the shrine located here is Panchamukhalingeshwara Swamy – Shiva with five faces. This form of the deity is unique as the only other place it is found is Varanasi. The temple is mostly locked, though the priest comes occasionally to offer prayers. Next to the temple, there is a sculptural representation of the navagraha (the nine planets according to Hindu astrology) under a shed. You can also find many statues placed along the walls of the temple. There is a newly constructed shrine opposite the trikutalaya.

Other attractions in Raikal include an Ayappa temple and a shrine dedicated to Bhimanna, in whose honour a three-day-long festival (January–February) is celebrated annually. Not many tourists visit Raikal, though the temple is a popular destination for locals, especially for wedding shoots.

Paidimadugu (42km)

The only attraction of this otherwise nondescript village is an ancient banyan tree (marri chettu in Telugu) spread over five acres. The tree has become a popular pilgrimage spot. Estimates regarding the age of the tree range from 200 to 500 years. There is a rather colourful temple of Goddess Laxmi under the tree. There are also idols of Ganesha and Nagini in the temple that, according to historians, date back to the 10th century CE. Outside the grove is another temple and a makeshift shrine with idols of numerous deities of Hindu gods.

A rivulet of the Godavari flows nearby from east to west – quite the anomaly as the river flows in the opposite direction to the sea. Interestingly, there is a belief that people who have been bitten by rats can be healed if they take a dip in the stream and pray to Goddess Durga. Pilgrims from neighbouring villages come here every Wednesday and Friday to worship the goddess.

The sacred grove is also home to many birds and butterflies. As you walk through the tangled branches, keep a look out for the nests of Baya weaver birds in and around the banyan tree.

Dharmapuri (43km)

Dharmapuri, one of the temple towns along the banks of the Godavari, has historically been an important cultural and pilgrimage centre. It was named after Dharamavarma, an emperor who was a fervent devotee of Narasimha. The temple here is dedicated to Laxmi Narasimha Swamy, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. There are two idols of the deity – pata (older) Narasimha swamy and kotha (newer) Narasimha Swamy. The major festivals of the temple are the Laxmi Narasimha Swamy Jatara (March–April) and Mokshada Ekashi (December).

The village of Dharmapuri is one of the sites of the Godavari Pushkaralu – a fair held during a holy period of the river that occurs every 12 years (much like the Maha Kumbh Mela that happens on the banks of the River Ganga). Dhamapuri can be reached from Kondagattu via SH 10 and NH 16.

The only option to stay here is Telangana Tourism’s Haritha Hotel (Tel: 08724-273330; Tariff: ₹600–1,050). The hotel offers 15 rooms, a restaurant and room service. Alternately, you could also stay at the various choultries and rooms provided by Sri Laxmi Narasimha Swami Vari Devasthanam (Tel: 273227; Tariff: ₹600–1,050). There are several small eateries around the temple serving the usual south Indian fare. The restaurant at Haritha serves vegetarian south Indian meals.