For many people, Jammu conjures up an image of lush green hills dotted with pretty hill towns and sacred shrines. While this is certainly true of most parts of the region that encompasses the Pir Panjal, the Greater Himalaya and the Shivalik foothills, Jammu city itself lies in the low-lying Tawi river basin at the edge of the northern plains. Tracing Jammu’s beginnings into pre-history, oral traditions say that Raja Jambu Lochan founded the city in the Vedic period, around the 14th century BCE. Once while out hunting, he saw a tiger and a goat drinking from the same watering hole. Amazed at this demonstration of peaceful coexistence, he founded a city here, calling it Jambupora, which evolved into Jammu. The king’s brother, Bahu Lochan, is said to be the original builder of Bahu Fort on the banks of the Tawi River.

At Manda Deer Park
At Manda Deer Park

In more recent times, the entire Jammu region comprised a number of small states that had been carved out of Ahmad Shah Durrani’s Afghan empire (founded in 1747). These states were ruled by Rajput kings, either independently or as vassals of the Mughals, until Maharaja Ranjit Singh annexed them into the Sikh Empire in 1814, leaving the Dogra Rajput, Maharaja Gulab Singh, to rule Jammu in his stead. With the help of General Zorawar Singh, Gulab Singh expanded the Sikh empire to include the whole of Ladakh, Gilgit and Baltistan, encompassing about 84,000 sq miles. In 1845, war broke out between the British and the Sikhs, and in the aftermath, the British sold Kashmir to Gulab Singh for 7½ million rupees. Thus, from 1846, Jammu became the winter capital from where the Dogra kings ruled the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir until 1947.

On the eve of Indian independence, Maharaja Hari Singh came under pressure from both India and Pakistan to join one of the newly formed countries. Although he wanted Kashmir to remain independent of both Pakistan and India, Pakistan forced Hari Singh’s hand by attempting to take Kashmir by force. Hari Singh asked India for assistance, which she provided only after setting a precondition that Kashmir must accede to India. The ruler complied and ceded Kashmir to India by signing the Instrument of Accession in October 1947. Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru then sent troops to push back Pakistani forces in what became the first Indo-Pak War, but Pakistan managed to retain the western area around Muzaffarabad and the northern areas of Gilgit-Baltistan. Ever since, Kashmir has remained divided between India and Pakistan along the de facto border called the Line of Control. Maharaja Hari Singh’s son, Rajya Sabha MP Dr Karan Singh, remains the present titular Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir.

Bahu Fort beside the Tawi River, Jammu
Bahu Fort beside the Tawi River, Jammu
Vandana Mohindra

Modern-day Jammu is the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir state. It styles itself as a ‘city of temples’ and lists no less than 46 shrines of the Hindu, Sikh, Muslim, Christian and Jain faiths within its limits. The city also serves as a hub for millions of pilgrims who visit its hill shrines each year, including the popular cave temple of Vaishno Devi. Although it only has a handful of sights, Jammu nevertheless makes a pleasant stop in winter. The city has remained relatively safe from violence, and has been a haven for its predominantly Kashmiri Pandit, Hindu Dogra and Sikh population. In April 2013, a heart-warming attempt at reuniting J&K’s Muslim and Hindu youth came in the guise of a Sufiyana concert, where singers from Srinagar performed for Jammu’s residents. With cultural events such as this on the rise and domestic tourist numbers growing annually, the future seems to hold even better days to come.

ORIENTATION

The Tawi River runs east to west through Jammu City. The Old Heritage City housing Amar Mahal and the Dogra palace of Mubarak Mandi sits on a ridge overlooking the river’s northern bank. One kilometre south lie the crowded bazaars that make up the heart of the Old City. Also located here are the J&K Tourist Reception Centre and Tourist Taxi Association and Booking Office (Tel: 0191-2546266, 2563358; Mobile: 09469550309) on Residency Road, a short walk from Raghunath Mandir. The General Bus Stand is right next to Jammu’s Super Speciality Hospital, under the BC Road Flyover. Across the river from the Mubarak Mandi Palace is Bahu Hill, where the ramparts of Bahu Fort overlook the Tawi from its southern bank. Jammu’s newer neighbourhoods lie further away from the southern bank, reached via any one of the four bridges that span the river. Jammu Tawi Station is also beyond the southern bank, just south of Jammu University, off the Jammu-Kunjwani NH1A Bypass, which links Jammu to Srinagar and Jalandhar. Plenty of taxis and shared taxis are available here. Jammu’s Satwari Airport is just south of Jammu Cantonment, on Ranbir Singh Pura Road.

Dogra palace of mubarak mandi
Dogra palace of mubarak mandi

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Jammu’s three main historic sights all lie on the banks of the Tawi River: the Amar Mahal Museum and adjoining Hari Niwas Hotel; the old Dogra palace of Mubarak Mandi with its excellent Dogra Art Museum; and Bahu Fort with its adjoining Bagh-e-Bahu gardens on the opposite bank. The sights and smells of the Old City’s bazaars and shrines are also worth taking in. It’s wise to hire an auto rickshaw that will help you zip around the Old City’s narrow galis with ease. Autos charge approx

₹350 for 2-3 hrs.

Amar Mahal Museum and Library and Hari Niwas Hotel

When approaching Jammu from Nagrota in the north, the first structure you see is the red brick Amar Mahal Museum and Library, perched high on a ridge surrounded by trees, overlooking the Tawi River’s northwestern bank. Rhesus monkeys play catch on top of a signboard that points to this 19th-century palace that was the last official residence of the Dogra kings. Designed by a French architect for Raja Amar Singh, it looks a little out of place, with its rose-pink sloping roofs and square castle tower. It now houses a museum run by the Hari-Tara Charitable Trust, and has a fine collection of miniature paintings from the Kangra school featuring the archetypal lovers, Nala and Damayanti. The Durbar Hall has portraits of the Dogra rulers, another gallery includes works of renowned artists such as MF Hussain, J Swaminathan and Laxman Pai, while a third gallery displays less remarkable canvases depicting Vishnu’s ten avatars. The entrance hall has an excellent photographic display on the life and times of scholar and statesman Dr Karan Singh, from his birth to meetings with world leaders, including His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. The first and second floors house a library with 25,000 antique books.

Amar Mahal
Amar Mahal

The former living quarters of Maharani Tara Devi have been preserved and showcase period furniture, photographs and even a Victorian bathtub! A highlight is the solid gold Dogra throne that weighs 120 kg and is kept in a dusty room protected by amiable armed guards. The manicured back garden offers dramatic views over the wide Tawi River and distant hills.

Entry fee Adults ₹20, children Rs 10 Cameras Still ₹50, video ₹200 Timings 9 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm Oct-Mar, 9 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm Apr-Sep Tel 0191-2546279 Website karansingh.com

Located within the same 50-acre complex is another crisp white palace, fronted by cannons and the Dogra crest — the Hari Niwas Palace. Built by Raja Hari Singh and converted into a hotel in 1990, it is one of Jammu’s best heritage properties.

Manda Deer Park

Situated opposite the Amar Mahal Museum, the Manda Deer Park is actually a zoo housing leopards, barking deer, ghoral, nilgai, porcupines and even a sadlooking emu, who is very far away from home. A shop sells T-shirts, peak-caps and other merchandise, and all proceeds go to the Department of Wildlife.

Entry fee ₹10

Mubarak Mandi Palace and Dogra Art Museum

Travelling south from the Amar Mahal Museum you reach Panjtirthi in Jammu’s Old Heritage City, named for its five holy temples (tiraths). From Radio Chowk, marked by the AIR building and prominent Jama Masjid, turn southeast towards the river down the narrow Palace Road, past old mansions with ornamental gables, to a pink sandstone double gateway that leads to a dead-end on the river’s edge. Here lie the ruins of the oncemagnificent Mubarak Mandi Palace, the old seat of the Dogra rajas.

Various royal halls are arranged around a central garden — the old High Court, the Maharaja’s Durbar, the Toshakhana (treasury), even the Army Headquarters and Foreign Department of the erstwhile kings. Built in a wonderful mix of Rajasthani, Mughal and European Baroque styles, the oldest building dates to 1824. Pink stone façades are adorned with jharokas, railings with jali work support arched verandahs, and here and there, peepal saplings grow out of slowly crumbling walls. It is eerily quiet, as if time has stood still in this forgotten corner of the city.

Gummat Bazaar — best for dry fruit
Gummat Bazaar — best for dry fruit

The Pink Hall, now painted lemon yellow, houses the splendid Dogra Art Museum spread over two floors. It houses a rarexcollection of miniature paintings from the Basohli School, as well as works from the Kangra, Jammu and Poonch schools. Additionally, 5th-6th century terracotta heads from the Kushana Buddhist site of Ambaran; copper and silver coins from the British, Mughal and Kushana periods; and arms including khukris, swords, tamancha (pistols), single, double and eight-barrel rifles, even a British Winchester! Equally fascinating are the ancient manuscripts including bhojpatra (birch bark) and an incredible 17th-century Ramayana in Persian. Upstairs, there is silver jewellery, Kangra ruler Sansar Chand’s evocative artworks and a fossilised elephant.

Since 2008, the Mubarak Mandi Jammu Heritage Society has been entrusted with renovating the palace complex, but so far, only the old Army Headquarters and Foreign Department have been restored.

Entry fee Indians ₹10, foreigners ₹50 Cameras Still ₹100, professional video ₹3,000 per gallery Timings 10 am-5 pm, Mondays closed Tel 2578834 (Deputy Director), 2561846 (Curator)

Almost the entire Hindu pantheon is worshipped at Raghunath Mandir’s 17 shrines
Almost the entire Hindu pantheon is worshipped at Raghunath Mandir’s 17 shrines
Courtesy J&K Tourism

Shri Raghunath Mandir, Old Heritage City

Jammu’s largest temple complex, Shri Raghunath Mandir lies at the heart of the Old Heritage City at the junction of Raghunath Temple Road and Residency Road. Its bright orange façade and gilded spires are clearly visible through the tangle of electricity poles and wires that front it. To beat the crowds, visit early, when flower sellers sit on the empty street, threading marigold garlands. As is the norm for every major attraction in Jammu, armed personnel stand guard behind sandbags at the temple doorway. A sign requests visitors to deposit “mobile, camera, pen, ladies bag, cigarette, gutka and tobacco.” Commissioned by Maharaja Gulab Singh in 1851 and completed by his son Ranbir Singh, the complex houses 17 shrines containing statues of almost the entire Hindu pantheon. The main shrine is dedicated to Raghunath (Lord Rama), and its inner walls are plated in pure gold.

Timings 5 am-9.30 pm

Raghunath and Gummat bazaars, Old Heritage City

Heading north along Raghunath Temple Road, Raghunath Bazaar is famous for its dry fruit shops (mainly selling sackfuls of graded walnuts), barfi shops, traditional Dogra jewellery and Kashmiri handicrafts. The bazaar houses the old Gurudwara Sri Guru Singh Sabha, whose nondescript entrance is barely discernable from the rest of the busy shop fronts. Walking in the opposite direction (southwards) takes you down Gummat Bazaar Road, also lined with dry fruit stores as well as tailoring shops, tiny guest houses and dhabas. Other items to look out for here are pashmina shawls, woollen pherans and Kashmiri wood-carvings. Towards the end of Gummat Bazaar is Dargah Peer Baba Hazrat Roshan Shah Wali, the mausoleum of a very tall holy peer known as Peer Nau Gazia (or nine-yard peer). The raised marble grave, draped in sumptuous green fabric, is 12-14 ft long.

Shrines off Residency Road, Old City

Running perpendicular to Raghunath Mandir is Residency Road, which at the best of times is a crush of 2- and 3- wheelers, thelas, rickshaws, pack mules, dogs and pedestrians. Walking eastwards, you’ll spot a McDonald’s outlet, ATMs, electronics and camera shops, the J&K Government Arts Emporium, the Tourist Taxi Association booking office, the Tourist Reception Centre, J&K Tourism’s Hotel Jammu Residency, the Indian Airlines booking office, a number of restaurants and the towering rotunda of Hotel KC Residency with its famous revolving restaurant. Just past Café Coffee Day, a lane leads north to the Panchvaktra Temple. Known locally as Rupiya Wala Mandir because of the silver coins embedded in its chequered floors, this saffron-yellow shrine is one of Jammu’s oldest (built in 1687), and is dedicated to Shiva in his most abstract form — with five faces (panchvaktar) representing his five divine aspects. The peaceful grounds house several shrines topped by domed shikharas, a garden and even a gaushala (cow shelter).

Just 100m ahead is Jammu’s main Jama Masjid at Talab Khatikhan. It is currently being rebuilt from the ground up, and the only structure still standing is its ornate green-and-white gateway.

Barely 300m northeast from the masjid is another popular shrine, that of Peer Mitha, the sweet-spoken 15th-century Sayyid (descendant of Prophet Muhammad) known as Qutul Alam. Just off the eastern end of Residency Road, the Protestant St Paul’s Church is the oldest church in Jammu. Maharaja Hari Singh granted land for the church in 1928.

Dargah of Budhan Ali Shah, or Peer Baba, behind Jammu Airport
Dargah of Budhan Ali Shah, or Peer Baba, behind Jammu Airport

Ranbireshwar Temple, Old City

On Shalimar Road, 1 km north of Raghunath Mandir is this temple, which claims to be the largest Shiva temple in north India. Named after its founder, Gulab Singh’s son Maharaja Ranbir Singh, it houses a 7-ft high Shivaling, surrounded by 2-ft high crystal lingas and 1,25,000 tiny lingas said to have been brought from the River Narmada.

Peer Kho

A kilometre northeast of the old quarter on Circular Road is the Peer Kho (cave) shrine on the banks of the River Tawi. It is also known as Jamvant Gufa as it is widely believed that Jamvant, the bear god mentioned in the Ramayana, meditated here. After half-crawling, halfcrouching through a low tunnel, you reach the highly venerated Shivaling, where the ingenious priests have found a way to keep both Lord Shiva and themselves cool in summer — by fitting an air-conditioner into the wall of the cave! The market outside sells religious paraphernalia and Kashmiri shawls.

Bagh-e-Bahu at Bahu Fort, said to have been built by Bahu Lochan in Vedic times
Bagh-e-Bahu at Bahu Fort, said to have been built by Bahu Lochan in Vedic times

Bahu Fort and Bagh-e-Bahu

From Indira Gandhi Chowk on the Tawi’s northwest bank, cross New Tawi Bridge to the southeast bank and turn north towards Bahu Fort and the Bagh-e-Bahu Gardens. Set on a hill overlooking the Tawi River, the fort is believed to be Jammu’s oldest extant structure, as it is said to have been built by the Vedic-era king, Bahu Lochan, over 2 millennia ago. Maharaja Gulab Singh refurbished its low-slung ramparts in the 1820s and also built the Mansabdar’s Palace within. In front of the fort are the lovely terraced gardens of Bagh-e-Bahu, full of seasonal flowers and fountains. Early mornings and evenings are the best times to visit, if only for the views across the Tawi River and the twinkling lights of the Old City beyond. The Mubarak Mandi Palace is clearly visible on the opposite bank.

Entry fee Adults ₹10, children ₹5 Timings 8 am-10 pm Apr-Aug, 9 am-8 pm Sep-Mar, open daily

Fronting the fort is a large, colourful building that houses the excellent Aquarium-Cum-Awareness Centre. Run by the Department of Fisheries, it is a great place for children and zoology students, featuring video presentations, well-captioned fish tanks, and rare species bottled in formaldehyde.

Aquarium entry fee Adults ₹20, children ₹10 Still Camera  ₹50 Timings 9 am-9 pm Apr-Aug, 9 am-8 pm Sep-Mar, open daily

Remnants of the Gole Ghar within the Mubarak Mandi Palace ruins
Remnants of the Gole Ghar within the Mubarak Mandi Palace ruins
Courtesy J&K Tourism

The fort also houses a venerated temple to goddess Maha Kali, the city’s presiding deity, known locally as Bahu or Bawey Wali Mata. The entrance to the temple is lined with stalls selling religious items. Entire families of Rhesus macaques have made the fort their home, but do keep your distance as the large males can be quite aggressive. The local goats, however, are much friendlier, and seem to make a habit of sitting on the roofs of cars parked in the adjacent car park.

TIP Bags, cellphones and cameras are not permitted inside; you have to stow them in lockers outside

Also in Jammu

The Dargah of Budhan Ali Shah, or Peer Baba, located behind the airport is the most revered dargah in Jammu. Many locals never take a flight without first paying their respects here. Situated 5 km west of the Old City along Talab Tillo Road is the 150-year-old Gole Mahal, set in a mango orchard in the Hazuri Bagh area. Recently declared a heritage building, it was built by Maharaja Pratap Singh and is famous for its round, lotuslike shape and arched gateway.

SHOPPING

Specialities to try in Jammu are the traditional achaar made from kasrod, mango, saunf and zimikand, sweets such as patisa, and a delicious processed cheese made only in winter called kalaadi. Pahalwan-di-Hatti (Tel: 0191-2344120) at Gandhi Nagar is famous for it. Don’t forget to snap up your year’s supply of dry fruit when in Raghunath Bazaar. You can pick up traditional Kashmiri or modern handloom items like pashmina shawls and even tweed cloth from the J&K State Handloom Development Corporation’s Polish stores at Residency Road (Tel: 2564012) or Gole Market in Gandhi Nagar (Tel: 24338982). You’ll also find plenty of small handicrafts and handloom stores in the lanes around Residency Road and Raghunath Bazaar. The popular City Square Mall on Gulab Singh Marg has brands and a food court.

Maharaja Hari Singh’s Hari Niwas Palace, now a heritage hotel beside the Tawi River
Maharaja Hari Singh’s Hari Niwas Palace, now a heritage hotel beside the Tawi River

WHERE TO STAY

Located adjacent to the Amar Mahal Museum, the Hari Niwas Palace (Tel: 0191-2543180, 2547216; Tariff: ₹3,600- 15,000) is Jammu’s best heritage property. Built by Maharaja Hari Singh, it is spread over 50 acres of landscaped gardens, with 34 luxurious rooms, a swimming pool and health club. The highlight is dining outdoors on the lawns with views over the Tawi river basin.

Inaugurated by Dr Karan Singh in 1972, ITDC’s Hotel Jammu Ashok (Tel: 2543571-76, Mobile: 09796438907; Tariff: ₹2,700-6,500) is one of Jammu’s oldest hotels, located in a lane opposite Hari Niwas Palace. It has 43 AC rooms and two suites. Although fitted with all the mod cons, the standard rooms have a slightly rundown air, but the deluxe rooms are far better.

Situated in the heart of the Old City on Residency Road next to the Tourist Reception Centre, JKTDC’s Hotel Jammu Residency (Tel: 2579554, 2549065, Mob: 09419212450; Tariff: ₹1,000-4,100) has 148 rooms spread over several ‘blocks’ — Chenab, Jhelum, Tawi View, Eagle, Trikuta and Royal. Each block houses rooms of a particular grade, with Chenab having the simplest and Royal the best. Though the corridors are dingy, the old-fashioned rooms in the Royal Block are enormous, with an adjoining verandah and terrace. There is an excellent wazwan restaurant, bar and vegetarian canteen here. Just opposite is Hotel Premier (Tel: 2543436; Tariff: ₹2,200-3,300), known more for its Café Coffee Day, Sagar Ratna and Wazwan restaurants than for its rooms. A quick look at the 25 AC rooms revealed that they weren’t great — clean and carpeted but run-down.

Jama Masjid at Talab Khatikhan
Jama Masjid at Talab Khatikhan

KC Residency (Tel: 2520770, 2575444; Tariff: ₹4,000-9,500) on Residency Road has 56 standard, deluxe and luxury rooms and suites. Its revolving restaurant Falak is one of the city’s most popular. The suites are carpeted and have four-poster beds.

Near Tawi Bridge is Hotel Asia (Tel: 2435757-60; Tariff: ₹5,000-8,000), a smart, centrally air-conditioned hotel with a Chinese and Indian restaurant and a bar. Although the deluxe rooms and suites don’t have great views, they are very well appointed.

ITC’s Hotel Fortune Inn Riviera (Tel: 2561415; Tariff: ₹5,500-9,500) is located on the banks of the Tawi, on Gulab Singh Marg. It’s a business hotel with three conference halls and a boardroom, as well as 29 well-appointed rooms and suites. It is located a stone’s throw away from the popular Moti Mahal and Yo China restaurants.

Jehlum Resorts (Tel: 2470079/ 82; Tariff: ₹5,000-9,500) is conveniently located near Jammu Tawi Railway Station opposite Bahu Plaza in Gandhi Nagar Extension. With its modern, glass-fronted façade, and elegant, airy rooms, this is every bit a stylish business hotel.

WHERE TO EAT

The bazaars around Raghunath Mandir throng with dhabas and halwais. Try the famous Amar Vaishno Dhaba near Raghunath Mandir for its rajma-chawal; Khana Khazana on BC Road near the General Bus Stand for its famous Dogri thali; or Pahalwan-di-Hatti in Sanjay Nagar (south of Gandhi Nagar) for its kalaadi, (special processed cheese), chhole-poori and chocolate barfi.

The reasonably-priced Wazwan restaurant in JKTDC’s Jammu Residency is very popular with locals and hotel residents alike for its Kashmiri cuisine. Nadroo yakhni, Bhaderwahi rajmah, tabak maaz, rogan josh, rishta, methi maaz, mirchi korma and dhania korma are some of the favourites on offer. The carpeted cabins, quiet decor and samovar for washing hands rounds off the experience. What’s more, they have ghazal singers performing every Friday, Saturday and Sunday (7.30-10 pm).

Sagar Ratna in Hotel Premier on Residency Road (Tel: 0191-2543436, Mob: 09906347843) is a franchise of the Delhi-based chain, with the same excellent dosas, chutneys and service. Hotel KC Residency’s revolving rooftop restaurant Falak is a great place to dine. It offers great views of the city, moving with a slight judder to complete one revolution every 90 minutes. It serves Awadhi and Mughlai dishes with regal names. Jehlum Resorts has two well-known restaurants: Fiesta for ice cream and fast food and Gulnar for Kashmiri.

Residency Road has several imports from Delhi such as Moti Mahal, McDonald’s, Café Coffee Day, Yo China, Barista and Domino’s, all located in City Square Mall on Gulab Singh Marg. You can also visit Hot Billions (off NH1A, Ambphalla, Rehari Chungri) for fast-food Indian cuisine.

Mubarak Mandi Palace lit up for Jammu’s Baisakhi Heritage Festival
Mubarak Mandi Palace lit up for Jammu’s Baisakhi Heritage Festival
Courtesy J&K Tourism

Festivals of Jammu

Of all Jammu’s festivals, the 9-day Bahu Mela held twice a year during the navratras (Mar-Apr and Sep-Oct) at Bawey Wali Mata Temple in Bahu Fort, probably attracts the largest number of visitors. Held during the two Navratras (March-April, October-November; March 31-April 8 and September 25-October 3 in 2014), the Bahu Mela sees worshippers pay obeisance to Maha Kali. But even if you aren’t a pilgrim, the colourful atmosphere will definitely keep you entertained. There’s food to sample, and handicrafts and other shopping at the crowded market that springs up around Bahu Fort.

Shivratri is also celebrated with gusto, especially at Peer Kho, the Ranbireshwar Temple and the Panchvaktra Temple. Urs are held all year round, when people of all faiths visit the graves of holy peers in the Jammu region on their death anniversaries.

Held around Baisakhi (April 14 in 2014), J&K Tourism’s Baisakhi Heritage Festival is a three-day celebration of the region’s cultural heritage. The historic Mubarak Mandi Palace is the focus of activities, with some events taking part at Mansar and Surinsar lakes, the Chenab riverfront in Akhnoor, and other venues. There’s traditional Jammu cuisine to sample, crafts to buy and folk dance performances to take in. Other attractions include street theatre, puppetry, sound-and-light shows, fireworks displays, art exhibitions and colourful tableaux showcasing the history and culture of the Jammu region.

The shrine of Sant Dileep Singh Manhas, or Baba Chamliyal, located along the international border in Jammu’s Ramgarh sector, attracts thousands during the Baba Chamliyal Mela in June. Devotees believe that soil (‘shakkar’) and water (‘sharbat’) from the shrine can cure skin diseases, and the mela once used to see visitors from across the border. These days, only a small delegation from Pakistan’s border forces is allowed over. A parallel mela is also held across the border.

GETTING THERE

Location The winter capital of J&K state and HQ of Jammu District and Jammu Region lies on the banks of the Tawi River at the apex of the north Indian plains

Distances 583 km NW of Delhi, 298 km SE of Srinagar JOURNEY TIME By road 8-9 hours from Srinagar, 13 hours from Delhi

Route from Delhi NH1 via Panipat, Karnal, Ambala, Ludhiana and Jalandhar; NH1A to Jammu via Pathankot and Samba

Route from Amritsar NH15 to Pathankot via Gurdaspur; NH1A to Jammu via Samba

Route from Srinagar NH1A to Jammu via Pampore, Avantipora, Qazigund, Banihal, Ramban, Batote, Patnitop, Kud, Chenani, Udhampur, Domel and Nagrota

Air Satwari Airport, Jammu is 6 km SW of Jammu’s Old City, past Satwari Railway Station on Ranbir Singh Pura Road. Jammu is connected by direct flights to Srinagar, Leh, Delhi and Mumbai by Air India, SpiceJet, Indigo, Jet Airways and Go Air. Taxi charges ₹200 to the city centre

TIP Security checks are long and stringent at Jammu Airport, so aim to reach at least 2 hrs before your flight departure time. It takes about 30 minutes from the centre of town to get to the airport

Rail Jammu Tawi Station — for now still the major railhead connecting the rest of India to the Kashmir Valley till the Kashmir Railway is completed in 2018 —is one of India’s best connected stations. Trains come from several cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, Kolkata, Bengaluru and others, including the legendary Himsagar Express running the length of India from Jammu to Kanyakumari.

Jalandhar-Jammu-Srinagar NH1A
Jalandhar-Jammu-Srinagar NH1A

Road Jammu is on the good, all-weather NH1A going to Srinagar (north) and Jalandhar (south) via Pathankot. At Pathankot you can turn onto NH15 to Amritsar, or continue on NH1A to Jalandhar, from where NH1 goes towards Chandigarh and to Delhi. Buses operate daily from Jammu to Delhi (583 km), Chandigarh (399 km), Amritsar (219 km) and other major cities. Contact the Tourist Reception Centre, JKSRTC (Tel: 0191-2576562), JKSRTC Traffic Control Unit (Tel: 2470062) or General Bus Stand (Tel: 2577475) for bookings and enquiries.

TIP Drive carefully on NH1A during the rains (Apr and Jul-Aug), as the route through the hills, especially around Banihal, is prone to landslides, which can also close sections of the highway for days at a time

Best trains to Jammu Tawi

From Delhi, Haryana, Punjab: The overnight 12425 Jammu Rajdhani originating from New Delhi stops at Panipat, Ambala, Ludhiana and Jalandhar en route to Jammu Tawi. There are many more day trains, and most trains from the following destinations also stop at these stations.

From Uttarakhand: The overnight 12207 Jammu Garib Rath leaves Kathgodam every Tuesday, stopping at Haldwani, Lal Kuan, Rudrapur and Bilaspur in Uttarakhand, and making long halts at Moradabad, Laksar, Saharanpur, Ambala, Ludhiana, Jalandhar and Chakki Bank before arriving at Jammu on Wednesday mornings at 9.40 am.

A very well connected Jammu Tawi Station
A very well connected Jammu Tawi Station

From Kolkata, Jharkhand, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh: The daily 13151 Jammu Tawi Express leaves Howrah at 11.45 am on Day 1 and arrives in Jammu at 8.30 am on Day 3. Important stations en route are Barddhaman, Asansol, Dhanbad, Gomoh, Gaya, Mughal Sarai, Varanasi, Faizabad, Lucknow, Shahjehanpur, Bareilly, Moradabad, Najibabad, Laksar, Saharanpur, Ambala, Ludhiana, Jalandhar and Chakki. The daily 18101 Tatanagar-Jammu Tawi Express is a 2-day train to Jammu on the Allahabad-Kanpur line. It stops at over 20 stations in Jharkhand, departing Tatanagar at 2.50 pm on Day 1 and arriving in Jammu at 2.10 pm on Day 3. En route, it makes long halts at Muri, Ramgarh, Barka Kana, Barwadih, Daltonganj, Chopan, Chunar, Allahabad, Kanpur, Delhi, Ambala, Ludhiana, Amritsar and Pathankot en route to Jammu.

From Uttar Pradesh: The daily 12237 Begampura Express originates in Varanasi and reaches Jammu in just over 24 hours, stopping at Sultanpur, Nihalgarh, Lucknow, Moradabad, Saharanpur, Ambala, Ludhiana, Jalandhar and Chakki Bank.

From Gujarat, Rajasthan, West Punjab: The daily 19223 Ahmedabad-Jammu Tawi Express leaves Ahmedabad at 11.20 am on Day 1, reaching Jammu Tawi at 7.35 pm on Day 2, making important halts at Abu Road, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Hanumangarh, Bhatinda, Firozpur, Jalandhar and Pathankot. The daily 12413 Ajmer-Jammu Tawi Express leaves Ajmer at 2.05 pm, arriving in Jammu Tawi at 8.10 am the next day, stopping for long halts at Jaipur and Alwar before proceeding via Delhi, Haryana and Punjab.

From Maharashtra and MP: The daily 11077 Jhelum Express originates in Pune and makes long halts at Daund, Ahmednagar, Manmad, Bhusaval, Burhanpur, Khandwa, Itarsi, Bhopal, Bina, Jhansi and Gwalior before proceeding through several stations in west UP, Delhi, Haryana and Punjab en route to Jammu Tawi. The 12919 Malwa Express is a daily connection from Indore to Jammu Tawi via Dewas, Ujjain, Bhopal, Vidisha, Bina, Datia, Gwalior and Morena. The 12471 Swaraj Express leaves Bandra Terminus early every Monday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday, making long stops at Surat, Vadodara, Kota, Mathura, New Delhi, Ambala, Ludhiana and Chakki Bank before arriving at Jammu on the afternoon of Day 2.

From Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, South Kerala: The legendary cross-country 16317 Himsagar Express leaves Kanyakumari every Friday afternoon, arriving in Jammu Tawi a full 3 days later on Monday afternoon. En route, it stops at 71 stations in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, Haryana, Punjab and J&K.

TIP Find many more trains to Jammu and book tickets online at irctc.co.in

FAST FACTS

When to go Jammu is located at the edge of the northern plains, so Nov-March is the best time to visit, with temperatures remaining crisp and cool

Tourist offices

J&K Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre, Residency Road, Jammu, Tel: 0191-2548172, 2544527, Website: jktourism.org

Directorate of Tourism, TRC, Residency Road, Jammu, Tel: 2520409

J&K Tourism, Tourist Info Counter, Jammu Airport, Tel: 2431917

J&K Tourism, Tourist Info Counter, Jammu Tawi Railway Station, Tel: 2476078

Tourist Police Post, Jammu Tawi Railway Station, Tel: 2473856

JKTDC, Tourist Reception Centre,Vir Marg, Jammu, Tel: 2579554; Website: jktdc.co.in, STD code 0191