Idukki: Power and Glory

Idukki offers a burst of colour tantalisingly bright and spread out like a rainbow on Earth. Sometimes, on winter mornings, a fine white sheet of mist cloaks the blue rivers and green hills. There is a sense of mystery, a hint of gentleness in the softened edges of mountains. Idukki is incredibly beautiful in the winter months, however, visitors are best warned against the stifling heat of the summer nights, usually spent waiting for the electricity to come back. Although the swirling waters of the rivers of Idukki produce over 60 per cent of all electricity in Kerala, supply to the district itself is incredibly poor. As a result, Idukki is seen as more of a power centre and less of a holiday spot.

This classification has its fringe benefits, of course. There is no organised tourism in this region, which lies in the shadow of Thekkady and Munnar, and is as off the beaten track as it gets. Yet, Idukki indulges its visitors with stunning mornings, the heady scent of spices and beautiful waterfalls, teasing away the worries of an urban existence.

ORIENTATION

It is a good idea to use Thodupuzha as your reference point while exploring Idukki, especially as most accommodation options are spread over a wide area around it. Thodupuzha is a trading town, where the produce of plantations from the hill ranges is sold. It serves, thus, as a confluence of many important routes. Thodupuzha is the entry point to the Idukki District, while coming in from Kochi via Muvattupuzha, 18km away. It lies to the west of the district capital, Painavu, 40km down SH33. Painavu is the access point for the three great dams on the Periyar river. SH8 comes up from the south to Thodupuzha from Pala in Kottayam District. Buses, autorickshaws, jeeps and taxis are easily available for travelling in and around Thodupuzha town.

A cascade flowing down a forested mountainside

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Central Idukki was initially a part of the Keezhmalainad Kingdom, from 100 to 1600 CE, before being conquered by the Vadakkumkur kings, who ruled at Karikodu, 3km from the centre of Thodupuzha town. As the political centre, Karikodu is also home to a number of temples and mosques. Other interesting sights to be seen here – from waterfalls to shimmering reservoirs – can be found along the Thodupuzha-Painavu Road, marked by numerous hairpin bends.

Malankara Dam

The Malankara Reservoir is an artificial lake, located 6km from Thodupuzha on the Moolamattom-Idukki Road. Spread over 11km, the reservoir is a popular picnic spot. Visitors may stroll along the pathway at the top of the dam, to take in the commanding view of the catchment area and the greenery surrounding it. Most buses on the Thodupuzha-Moolamattom Road stop at the entrance of the dam. One can also get autorickshaws or taxis from Thodupuzha.

Kurusha Para

About 17km (or 40 minutes) from Thodupuzha lies the hillock of Kurusha Para. Literally translated, this means ‘the rock on which stands a cross’. The hill, from its pinnacle 2,685ft above the ground, offers a breathtaking view of the Malankara Reservoir and the plantations all around. To get to the Kurusha Para, visitors need to take a bus from Thodupuzha, alight at Kudayathoor to hire an auto to Aavarancity via the Kuval-Bhagam Road. A steep trek begins where the road ends, along a path flanked by homes of the locals almost all the way to the top of the Kurusha Para.

Thomankuttu Waterfalls

Favoured as a beautiful picnic spot, Thomankuttu offers a series of waterfalls which don’t fail to amuse anyone who plans a visit here.

Located about 20km from Thodupuzha, the seven-stepped falls are surrounded by a number of caves. Each step has a cascade and a pristine pool beneath. Visitors can take taxis or autos from Thodupuzha to reach Thomankuttu.

Swirling mists above the green landscape of Ilaveezha Poonchira

Keezharkuttu Waterfalls

Surrounded by lush forests, the Keezharkuttu or Rainbow Waterfalls gush down from a height of around 200ft. These falls, which lie 25km from Thodupuzha, are surrounded by a number of medicinal plants and tribal homesteads. The DTPC Office at Idukki organises a number of trekking, rock-climbing, mountaineering and camping trips from the falls.

Ilaveezha Poonchira

Ilaveezha Poonchira, literally ‘a pond of flowers atop a hill where no leaves fall’, is a little hamlet situated at the top of the Kudayathoor Mala peak, near Kanjar, about 20km from Thodupuzha. Among the highest peaks in Kerala, the Kudayathoor Mala rises 3,680ft above sea level, and is refered to locally as ‘Kudayathoor Vindhyan’. Lore surrounding the mountain speaks of the Pandavas from the Mahabharata visiting the place during their exile. It is said that Bhima caught sight of a few people watching Draupadi bathe in the pond and placed his crown as a barrier to protect her from their gazes. The rocks later appeared where the crown had been placed. Surrounded by three enchanting hillocks – Mankunnu, Kudayathoor and Thonippara – this location is ideal for day picnics and treks.

Annamalai Temple, Karikodu

The 1,800 year old Annamalai Temple at Karikodu stands apart due to its age as well as the Chola style architecture that few other temples in the region use. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this ancient structure retains characteristics from when it was built, unlike most other temples here, and has been spared attempts at restoration and renovation. Some of the distinctive architectural features of this temple are the window with nine lattices, which represent the navagrahas (the nine planets), and the window with five lattices, representing the pancha bhoothas (the five elements). Trust authorities claim that the idols and lamps have been carved from stone and metal and date back to the 14th century. A step-well near the temple is also thought to be sacred, believed to never run dry. The temple is managed by a private trust and the Archaeological Survey of India. The latter stepped in during the 1960s, taking many of the relics from the temple to house them in the museums of Kozhikode and Thrissur.

Location Diagonally opposite the Karikodu Bhagavathy Temple at Karikodu, 3km from the centre of Thodupuzha Tel 04862-228505

Striking façade of the Karikodu Bhagawathy Temple

Courtesy Karikodu Bhagawathy Temple

Karikodu Bhagawathy Temple

This temple, diagonally opposite the Annamalai Temple, is said to be around 460 years old, though the outer structure was rebuilt in the last century. The main shrine, dedicated to Bhagavathy, is flanked by ancilliary shrines to Ganapathy. The Kumbha Bharani Festival in the month of Kumbham (February– March) is the most important festival in the central Idukki region, drawing lakhs of devotees.

Timings 5.00–11.00am; 5.00–8.00pm

TIP Only Hindus are permitted

Nainar Masjid, Karikodu

Situated a few metres ahead of the Karikodu Bhagavathy Temple, this mosque is believed to be as old as the temple. It is indeed the largest and the oldest mosque in Idukki. Although its present structure was built in 1979, the mosque bears quite a few marks of the original structure, including inscriptions in ancient script, a water tank on the eastern side believed to have been sculpted out of a single rock, and some old pillars, architecturally similar to those found in Hindu temples, next to the water tank.

Krishnaswamy Temple, Thodupuzha

Legend has it that a travelling ascetic, while in this region, had a vision of Lord Krishna at the spot where the Krishnaswamy Temple stands today, and proceeded to pray and make offerings. The king of Keezhmalainad, ruling from Karikodu, then constructed the temple. The temple hosts the 10-day annual festival, Chothiyoothu Utsavam, in the month of Meenam (March–April).

Location On the riverbank, at the heart of Thodupuzha Timings 4.00am-11.00am; 5.00–7.30pm Tel 04862222488

TIP Only Hindus are permitted. Men must be bare-chested and wear a mundu, women must wear a sari or salwar kameez

Uravappara Temple

The Sree Subramanya Swami Temple at Olamattom is known as the Malayala Palani, referring to the famous Subramanya Swamy Temple in the eastern Palani Hills of Tamil Nadu, which lies adjacent to the hills of the Idukki District. It is said the Pandavas camped here during their exile and the three big boulders within the grounds served as ovens for their kitchen. When they had difficulty finding water, Bhima is believed to have created an indentation with his foot on the rock, from which a spring flowed, giving the temple its name: uravappara means ‘a rock from which flows a spring’. The pond can still be seen today.

Location 1.5km from Thodupuzha on the Moolamattom Road

Thumpichi Kalvari Samukhyam

Saibal Das

St. Thomas Church, Mylacombu

St. Thomas Church at Mylacombu, believed to have been founded in 600 CE, is thought to be the oldest church in Idukki, and is known as the ‘Parent Church of the East’. The church was rebuilt about 50 years ago, but still retains key components such as the ancient bronze bell with calligraphic inscriptions dating back to 606 CE and an ancient baptistery from the same time period. Altar decorations, beams and carvings can be found inside. While legend has it that St. Thomas built the original church, there are no records to prove that the apostle came here at all.

Location 8km from Thodupuzha

Kalvari Mount

Thumpichi Kalvari Samukhyam is a famous Christian pilgrimage centre on the Moolamattom-Idukki Road, 35km from Thodupuzha. A large cross dominates the landscape, carried to the top of the hill in 1953, accompanied by a small chapel dedicated to Infant Jesus. The pathway leading to the top is marked at regular intervals by 14 murals describing the Stations of the Cross. The climb is rendered worthwhile even for those not interested in the Church, by fabulous view of the Idukki countryside that can be enjoyed from the top of the hill.

WHERE TO STAY

There are excellent holiday options spread across the region, a short drive away from Thodupuzha or Painavu. The River Banks (Tel: 04862-224942, 226743; Tariff: ₹2,100–2,800) resort is 4km from Thodupuzha, on the road to Moolamattom, which faces the Thodupuzha river. The architecture is traditional Kerala style. The resort offers 17 rooms and great views of the Thodupuzha river and the greenery around.

Greenberg Resort

Courtesy Greenberg Resort

Further down the Moolamattom Road, nestled among the hills and close to Nadukani and Kulamavu Dam is Greenberg Resort (Tel: 259954/ 84-85; Tariff: ₹5,500), 35km from Thodupuzha. Situated at a height of 3,000ft, the resort has 18 (33) tastefully designed cottages, an organic vegetable farm, an orchard, a tea plantation, trekking and overnight camping facilities. Its Kodumudi Restaurant serves traditional Kerala cuisine. Among its many facilities, the resort even boasts an open-air auditorium.

The Pimenta (Cell: 09447302347, 09744770227) is a unique resort at Kadalikad, 6km from Thodupuzha on the Muvattupuzha Road. Four bungalows, built in the traditional Kerala architectural style, compliment the natural setting. There’s also an organic spice garden. They arrange guided treks, swimming in the river, visits to local temples and to an elephant training centre, cultural events and cooking classes.

Edassery Resort (Tel: 04868272711, 272001; Tariff: ₹1,500– 3,500) is in Kattappana, close to the Idukki Arch Dam. The resort offers 20 rooms and a restaurant.

In Thodupuzha town, Maurya Monarch (Tel: 04862-222697/ 797; Tariff: ₹690–1,200) has eight rooms and three restaurants and Internet. Geminy Tourist Complex (Tel: 222734-35, Cell: 09447097734; Tariff: ₹533–1,777) has 30 rooms a multi-cuisine restaurant, beer parlour and a travel desk. Hotel Stoneage (Tel: 235477); Tariff: ₹600– 2,000) is a budget option in Cheruthoni, with a restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT

In Thodupuzha, small time local eateries such as Gopuram and Sagar, both on the Muvattupuzha Road, serve tiffins, and Keralite and Chinese meals. Sagar is known for its roast chicken, fish curry and paranthas. The Biryani Hut, also on the Muvattupuzha Road, is perhaps among the most highly recommended restaurant that is in Thodupuzha, and serves authentic Malabar Biryani amongst various other dishes. At Cheruthoni, Pappen’s Restaurant offers Chinese and Keralite cuisine, and prepares tiffins as well. Most restaurants here are attached to the hotels. Of these, the Maurya Monarch offers a multi-cuisine experience with no less than four restaurants and delicacies like crab chilly fry and chilly rabbit. The Sicilia Hotel also has a multi-cuisine restaurant called Swad and a separate beer parlour.

Idukki Arch Dam

The ‘Happily Ever After’ Dam

The word idukki literally means ‘narrow gorge’; the district itself derives its name from one such gorge along the great Periyar river, where India’s only arch dam, the Idukki Arch Dam, was built. The second highest dam in the country, it straddles the river at a height of 555ft and, together with the Cheruthoni and Kulumavu dams, forms the largest reservoir in Kerala. The Idukki Arch Dam links the Koravan Mala (839ft) and Kurathi Mala (925ft) hillocks.

It is not surprising that in a region so wrapped in legend and lore, the impressive construction has its own story as well. It is believed that during their exile, Rama and Sita of the Ramayana passed by the Periyar river. One day, a Koravan (native man) and a Kurathi (native woman) were caught staring at Sita while she was bathing in the river. In anger, Rama cursed them and turned them into stones, on opposite banks of the Periyar. They begged Rama to reunite them, since they had never been apart. Overcome with pity, Rama blessed them and promised that, one day in the future, they would be together once more. The building of the dam is thus seen almost as the fulfillment of this prophecy.

In 1922, a superintendent of the Malankara Tea Estate met the head of the Araya community while hunting, and the latter showed him the way to the narrow gorge between the hillocks. His friend, Mr. Thomas Edattu, sensed the potential of the spot and conceived the idea of building a dam here. The estate approached the Government of Travancore to set up the dam in 1932, but the project did not take off until after independence when surveys were conducted on and around the site. It took over two decades for work to commence in 1969, and the storage of water only started in 1973.

Entry Adults ₹10 Boating fee ₹600 for 5 people Timings 9.00am–5.00pm

TIP Photography and mobile phones are not allowed

Cheruthoni Dam, the highest gravity dam in Kerala at 454ft, falls en route to Idukki, about 56km to Thodupuzha. It can be viewed from Hill View Park at Cheruthoni, an eight acre stretch named for the majestic and panoramic view of the Idukki Arch Dam, the Cheruthoni Dam and the countryside. Herds of wild elephants have often been spotted from this park, and the herbal garden and children’s park are added attractions. Tickets for the park can be purchased from the Kerala State Electricity Board (KSEB) in Trivandrum (Tel: 0471-2448972). For 15 days around special occasions, such as Onam and Christmas, tickets can be bought at the KSEB counter on site.

Entry ₹15 Timings 9.00am–5.00pm

TIP Photography prohibited

Kulamavu Dam towers over the landscape at a height of 328ft, 53km from Cheruthoni, offering amazing views. The Greenberg Resort at Kulamavu also organises treks around the dam area.

Tel 04862-259954/ 84/ 85