Ganapatipule: The Dock of the Bay

The road to Ganapatipule from Ratnagiri is an indicator – a magical, stunning indicator – of the beauty that lies ahead. On winding pathways, a multi-hued landscape rushes past your car windows, permeated with red earth and emerald paddy fields and mango trees laden with fruits. The beach at Ganapatipule is a revelation. Its sands change colour depending on the time of day, and it is at its stunning best at sunset, when all is gold, framed by a blushing sky. Green coconut trees stand nearby as if to add some more zest to an already glorious, vast vista.

The remarkable thing about the beach is that though it is frequented by tourists – many of them devotees who come to visit the temple nearby – it never appears to be crowded. From the hillock behind the temple, the view is gorgeous: a spectacular blue sea with white-tinged waves spreads out below; a cricket match is on progress on the beach; and like a dream, the coconut trees sway in the breeze.

It’s the kind of place that makes you want to leave your job and stay on – forever, if possible – with the waves and the sands. Even if you visit for two days, you’ll take back something: at the very least a snapshot of a mesmerising place, which will lurk in your thoughts, just like the stand stuck in your feet after a day at the beach, long after you are back in the city.

BEACH WATCH

As across the west coast, swimming is not advisable at low tide at Ganapatipule as it’s dangerous. There are lifeguards on the beach.

TIP Dress conservatively

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Strictly speaking, there’s only one beach in Ganapatipule. Bhandarpule, located 2 km out of town, also has a beach, but it does not stretch for too long a distance. The unpolluted waters of the sea and the clear blue sky (unless you’re visiting in the monsoon) contribute toward making Ganapatipule spectacular.

The town’s hub is its bus terminus. The road that brings you to Ganapatipule from Ratnagiri continues past the terminus towards Malgund, with the main market stretched on both its sides. Across the road from the terminus stands the MTDC Resort, and to the left the Swayambhu Ganapati Temple, which faces the beach. All the important hotels in Ganapatipule lie along this road. Autos fares are fixed for different distances (approx ₹450 for Ratnagiri). The months of August and September, around the time when Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated, see many tourists. And, if you love hapus mangoes enough to pick them fresh off the tress in orchards, May is the time for you.

On the Beach

In spite of the huge number of people visiting it, the beach at Ganapatipule remains quiet and clean. To the left of the Swayambhu Ganapati Temple, the beach ends in large rocks, while to the right it is cut off by a creek. Ocean Adventures (Cell: 099755 53617; W oceanadventures.in) offers watersports here, including one of the only surfing training programmes (₹2,500 for 5 hrs), as well as banana rides (₹1,200/ 5-seater), bumper rides (₹500, 2-seater), jet-ski (400 per round). They are also planning to start flyboarding ($150/ 30 mins or $250/ 1 hr) soon.

Ramparts of Jaigarh Fort, conquered by aggressive monsoon winds

Punit Paranjpe

Swayambhu Ganapati Temple

Legend has it that Lord Ganesha manifested himself on a hillock by the beach, which is why a Ganapati Temple was built here. The name Ganapatipule, incidentally, means pule (sand) blessed by Ganesha.

Malgund

This is an old village located on the road to Jaigarh, about 2 km from Ganapatipule. It is mainly known for two things: the open-air Prachin Kokan Museum, and the memorial to the Marathi poet Krishnaji Keshav Damle, better known as Keshavsut (meaning Keshav’s son). Damle was born in Malgund on 7 October, 1866, and made his mark as a revolutionary and reformist poet. His old house is now a sacred space.

Entry for Keshavsut Smarak ₹5 Timings 8.30am–6.00pm daily

Malgund also has a beautiful beach called Gaiwadi, which you won’t find on a tourist map but must not miss at any cost during winter. For, between December and March, it’s home to large flocks of migratory birds.

Konkan Tourism Development Research Centre is a private agency that offers adventure sports. Call Vaibhav Sardesai (Cell: 09423855750, 09637588565) to make bookings here. He also runs the famous Prachin Kokan Museum.

SHOPPING

Ganapatipule is not renowned for any particular handicraft but it has a wealth of horticultural produce that you can take back raw or processed. If you are visiting between April and May, visit one of the mango orchards in Malgund to buy the famous Alphonso mangoes. Otherwise, tinned mango pulp, bottled kokum syrup, amla squash and sun-dried layers of mango, jamun and jackfruit pulp are readily available at a number of shops. You’ll get the best discounts on these at the Govind V Kelkar Supermarket on the ground floor of Hotel Durvankur. The Kelkars have their own mango orchards and a processing plant, and they sell their products under the brand name Ashok’. You can also buy handicrafts from the Konkan districts of Maharashtra at the Prachin Kokan Museum in Malgund. There are also many kinds of sweets, specially besan and coconut laddoos. They also have dinka-che-laddoo, made with edible gum.

WHERE TO STAY

The fanciest option, Best Western – Blue Ocean Resort & Spa (Tel: 02357-235388, 235488; Tariff: ₹8,000–22,000), is located 5 km from Ganapatipule in Malgund and has its own private beach. Another great place to stay is Abhishek Beach Resort (Tel: 235555; Tariff: ₹3,000– 14,000) which has clean rooms and villas with good views.

The MTDC Holiday Resort (Tel: 235061-62; Tariff: ₹1,600–4,000) has two properties, a kilometre apart. If you want the best location in town, look no further.

Hotel Durvankur (Tel: 235764; Tariff: ₹1,500–1,900) is a good option as well. Hotel Landmark (Tel: 235284-85; Tariff: ₹2,500–3,500) is close to the sea, with an uncharitable checkout time of 9.00am. It will take you a few minutes to walk down to the Ganapati Temple and the beach from its gate. Tranquillity Beach Resort (Tel: 235750, Cell: 09881434601; Tariff: ₹2,500–3,500) is also located 5 km from Ganapatipule on Malgund-Warawade Road. They do not accept credit cards.

The Fern Courtyard Resort (Tel: 235300, Mumbai Reservations Tel: 022-67397777; Tariff ₹5,000–8,000 on weekdays, ₹5,250–8,500 on weekends), on Chafe Ganapatipule Road has all amenities. Atithi Parinay (Tel: 240121, Cell: 09049981309; Tariff: ₹3,300–3,700, near Mahalakshmi Temple in Kotawade, 15 km away) is a lovely homestay in the interiors of Konkan region.

WHERE TO EAT

MTDC’s properties in Ganapatipule are great to stay at but the food at their two restaurants, is nothing much to write home about.

As it’s a temple town, most roadside eateries in Ganapatipule serve only vegetarian fare. And the pick of these lie just a short walk away from the MTDC property.

The first of these is Bhau Joshi Bhojanalaya (Tel: 02357-235293) that serves the best sol kadi in town. They offer lunch and dinner and its best to place your order in advance. The baingan masala here is the most popular with tourists, and for dessert, the delicious and refreshing shrikhand is recommended.

Further up the road is Hotel Durvankur’s in-house Shivnandan Restaurant. Everything they serve here is of excellent quality and taste. Polish off your meal with a bottle of Marco, a locally produced mango drink.

Sameer on Temple Road serves lip-smacking bangada fry, surmai and prawn delicacies. Fren Courtyard’s Konkan Spice serves excellent Konkani and Malvani food. Mehendale’s Swaad Dining in Malgund serves simple and tasty vegetarian cuisine.

A Peek into the Past

Malgund, just a couple of kilometres out of Ganapatipule on the road to Jaigarh, has an open-air museum called Prachin Kokan, which depicts the region’s traditional way of life through life-like models. Spread over three acres on a hillside, this beautifully land-scaped park is the brainchild of Ganapatipule resident Vaibhav Sardesai. When he threw open the Prachin Kokan to visitors on 15 December, 2004, Vaibhav was only 27.

Crafts and Handicrafts

The museum depicts everyone from kolis (fisherfolk) to barbers, potters, sculptors, cobblers and even a village headman. In addition to this, there are displays of ancient implements such as an oil press, kitchen tools like a modak cooker (a modak is a Maharashtrian sweet with a jaggery and coconut filling), and even a model called Aarmaar, commemorating Shivaji’s first naval vessel, the Sangameshwari.

Nearby is a counter selling handicrafts from Maharashtra’s Konkan districts. There are wooden toys from Sawantwadi, puppets from Sindhudurg and food products from Ratnagiri. Their mango shake powder is locally made and you must definitely buy some.

Entry ₹30 Camera ₹20 Timings Open 8.30am–6.00pm through the week Call Vaibhav Sardesai on 09423855750 Email [email protected].