In Hinduism, there are strong links between the silvery Himalayan peaks and Lord Shiva. Kalidasa
Inside the Amarnath Cave, the pure white stalagmite is formed in Shravan (July-August) as melting water trickles down in a slow rhythm, drop by drop, from the top. The source is believed to be the holy Ramkund Lake, situated above the cave. The stalagmite piles up to take the shape of a linga, which begins to rise indiscernibly to be at its full height on the nights of the full moon. Wise men say that the Shivaling waxes and wanes with the phases of the moon. Around the deity is woven a common thread, which unites the stories of priests, pilgrims, security men, langars, pony-men, pitthuwallas (porters) and shopkeepers.
It was here that Shiva narrated the Amar Katha — the secret of immortality — to his consort Parvati, the graceful daughter of the Himalaya. For a long while, Parvati remained resolute in her wish to hear the secret of the cosmos, while Shiva procrastinated. Finally, Shiva decided to indulge her. He started for a lonely place where no living being could hear what he was to say. He chose the spot that is now the Amarnath Cave. In the course of his journey, he left Nandi, his bull, at Pahalgam (which gets its name from Bailgaon). At Chandanwari, he released the moon from his locks. By the banks of Sheshnag Lake, he forsook the snakes around his neck. He decided to leave his son Ganesh at Mahagunas (Mahaganesh) Parvat. At Panchtarni, Shiva left behind the Panchabhoota (Earth, Water, Air, Fire and Sky), which together make a living being. Finally, he entered the holy Amarnath Cave along with Parvati. Here, he seated himself upon a deerskin. To ensure that no living being would overhear, he created Kalagni, the fire, which was to destroy every living thing in and around the holy cave. Shiva then started narrating the secret of immortality to Parvati. Fatefully, a pigeon’s egg was lying beneath the deer skin asan (seat), unharmed. The pair of pigeons born out of this egg became immortal, having heard the Amar Katha. Every year, pilgrims still spot pigeons residing on the roof of the cave, a miracle at these impossible heights.
The yatra
While proceeding to Amarnath, think of its rich history and legends. The Amarnath Cave is referred to in the Bhrngish Samhita, Nilmat Purana, Kalhana’s Rajtarangini, and the Mahatmayas of Amarnatha and Amreshvara Kalpa. Was it not Shiva and Parvati themselves who first traversed the trek? Countless pilgrims and great sages have walked upon this path, as has the pious Muslim ruler of Kashmir, Sultan Zain-ul- Abidin (1420-70), and the French physician Francois Bernier, who accompanied Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb to Kashmir in 1663. Swami Vivekananda and Swami Ramtirath also undertook the pilgrimage to Amarnath. A thousand years earlier, Adi Shankaracharya walked this way.
India’s syncretic and inclusive culture, its ethos of secularism and religious fervour and an ordinary Kashmiri’s struggle for survival are all encapsulated in the annual Amarnath Yatra. It is one of those rare events in the Hindu calendar in which the organisers are primarily Muslims. Many locals say it was a Muslim shepherd who discovered the cave while searching for his missing goat. Many members of the Sri Amarnathji Shrine Board are Muslim. The 200-odd makeshift shops that come up along the route and sell puja items are owned by Muslims. The pony-men, luggage carriers and tent owners, who render excellent service under tough conditions, are all Muslim too, and they claim proud privilege in providing support.
The Amarnath trail is along thick and green woodlands of breathtaking beauty. The playful stream of the Lidder River meanders alongside, sparkling bright and pure. From Chandanwari, which is the confluence of the Asthan Marg and Sheshnag rivers, there begins a terribly steep 4-km ascent to Pissu Ghati (10,403 ft), the toughest part of the pilgrimage, reminding yatris that the path to salvation involves superhuman struggle.
A feeling of having reached an ethereal destination overwhelms yatris when they arrive at Sheshnag Lake (11,712 ft, 1.5 km long, 1.2 km wide) — so striking is the setting and colour of this great water body, surrounded by mighty peaks. This scenery is the setting for the first, pine-scented night halt (after Pahalgam). Sheshnag Lake symbolises the cosmic ocean in which Lord Vishnu reclines in eternal repose. Once, terrorized by a mighty asura who had received a boon from Shiva that he would not be killed by the lord himself, the devas went to the bank of the Sheshnag Lake to pray to Vishnu. Pleased, Vishnu rose from the lake, seated upon the back of the mighty serpent, the thousand-headed Sheshnag, who destroyed the asura. It is considered very auspicious to bathe in the Sheshnag Lake and several devout pilgrims do so despite its icy cold water.
Second only to the trek up the Pissu Ghati is the formidable climb from Sheshnag to the Mahagunas Top (15,091 ft). Pilgrims climb slowly and breathlessly for 5 km to reach it, the highest point in the entire course of the pilgrimage, where they cross over from the Lidder Valley to the Sind Valley.
Along the 8-km descent from Mahagunas Top to Panchtarni, the last camp en route to the cave, comes Paushpatri, where one of the best langars is organised by the Delhi-based Sri Shiv Sewak Society (Web: shreeshivsewak. com). Fuel up here before continuing to the night halt at Panchtarni.
It is in the plains of Panchtarni that Shiva danced the tandava as he left behind everything on his way to the Amarnath Cave. So immersed in ecstasy was he that his locks were undone and five streams of the Ganga (together making up the Panchtarni) fell to the ground. The Amarnath Cave is 6.5 km from Panchtarni, but involves a narrow spiralling trek. One false step, and the pilgrim or pony can fall 2,000 ft to the Panchtarni plains below. An early morning’s start is recommended for there is a long queue at the entrance to the cave. For about a kilometre, pilgrims have to travel over solid ice through a deep ravine, with the holy cave, a huge aperture in the mountain, clearly in sight. To the left of the cave, the Amaravati River flows down the mountain, where many devotees bathe before entering the cave. For those who do not wish to bathe in the icy water, water is heated up; there are a handful of makeshift changing rooms here.
Amarnath Shrine
The colossal holy cave faces south. Its outer mouth measures about 120 ft across, and it is about 75 ft high and at least 80 ft deep, sloping down into the mountainside. Inside, a central ice formation, rising to about 7 ft and ending in a glistening cone, is the ice linga of Shiva. To its right is another block of ice (6 ft high, 3 ft in diameter), revered as Ganesh, and a smaller ice figure is Goddess Parvati. Inside the cave is another very small cave to the right of the Shivaling, from which a chalk-like substance is taken by pilgrims as vibhuti (sacred ash), and holy water is collected. Despite the large crowds and hasty darshan, the visit to the home of Shiva, the Himalayan mendicant who is both destroyer and healer, is an immensely rewarding experience.
TIP Do not touch the holy linga, or throw any offering at it
Unfortunately, on Shravan Purnima, the ice linga is no longer seen in full bloom, having disappeared much earlier to the disappointment of many pilgrims. A debate rages over the ways and means of preserving the ice linga for the entire period of the yatra. The Shrine Board has taken the view that with more and more people trekking up to the cave, more time is needed to ensure darshan of the linga for all. There are economic implications too as a longer duration for the yatra ensures a boost for tourism in J&K, as many who come as pilgrims also visit Srinagar, Sonamarg and Gulmarg. But for darshan to take place, the ice linga must be preserved and hence the need for scientific devices to ensure its longevity.
After darshan, devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for lunch, continue to Sheshnag to spend the night, and return to Pahalgam the next day. They also have an option of returning via Baltal (see below) on the day of the darshan itself.
Routes to the holy cave
From Pahalgam Pahalgam-Chandanwari (16 km)-Pissu Top (4 km)-Sheshnag (9 km)-Mahagunas (5 km)-Panchtarni (8 km)-Amarnath Cave (6 km).
Pahalgam is 99 km from Srinagar. The Pahalgam route is considered the more sacred route. It is through this route that Chhari Mubarak, the holy mace of Lord Shiva, reaches the cave shrine on the day of Raksha Bandhan. The base camp is in Nunwan, 3 km before Pahalgam, where tented accommodation is available. Pilgrims can also stay in hotels at Pahalgam. Early in the morning, pilgrims are allowed to proceed from Nunwan and Pahalgam to Chandanwari, a distance of 16 km, by mini-buses and taxis. It could take more than 2 hrs to cover this short distance because the road is very narrow and the vehicles have to negotiate steep, treacherous bends, many a time waiting for the traffic from the opposite direction to pass. From Chandanwari onwards the track gets even steeper, and is accessible only on foot or by pony (return ₹4,500) or dandi (palki, return ₹17,000). Porters can also accompany pilgrims (return ₹2,500). Night-stay facilities are available at Chandanwari, Sheshnag, Panchtarni and the holy cave. Most yatris on this route return to Panchtarni on the day of darshan itself.
TIP Mobile handsets do not receive signals on the trek beyond Chandanwari
From Baltal Baltal-Domail (2 km)-Burari Marg (5 km)-Sangam Ghati (5 km)-Amarnath Cave (3 km).
Baltal is 93 km from Srinagar. The Baltal route is shorter but steeper and prone to landslides. Pilgrims have to stay in tents at the base camp here, which is akin to the one in Nunwan. There is no overnight accommodation available between Baltal and the holy cave; the entire 15-km stretch has to be covered in a single day. Pilgrims who wish to halt for the night on this route, stay in tents at some distance ahead of the holy cave. If the weather conditions are favourable, those who are fast can even return to Baltal the same day, making it a one-day pilgrimage. Baltal is thus the preferred route for many pilgrims who want to undertake the Amarnath Yatra in less time. Typical costs along this route are ₹2,800 return by pony, ₹8,500 return by dandi (palki) and 1,650 for porters.
CAUTION Along either route, don’t relax at places where warning signs are fixed. Go slow on steep gradients, don’t attempt short-cuts or try to overtake others on difficult stretches. Do not use plastic around the base camp and during the trek to avoid polluting the pristine region
TIP Rates given for both routes are indicative; these are fixed yearly by the shrine board before the start of the annual pilgrimage. Hire only registered pony-men and porters with IDs
WHERE TO STAY
Tented accommodation is available along the way at the night halts and has to be secured on the yatri’s own initiative. You can bargain. The night halts on the Baltal route are at Manigam, Baltal and Panchtarni (₹100-400 per night) and on the Pahalgam route at Nunwan, Chandanwari, Sheshnag (₹125-280 per night) and Panchtarni. Rows of tents line the route in these places. Quilts, pillows, mattresses and kerosene oil lanterns are provided. Hot water is also available. A tent accommodates around 10-12 persons. There are a handful of makeshift toilets, but not enough.
The langars along the route provide free accommodation while the accommodation provided by J&K Tourism and other tentwallahs costs an average of ₹100-400 per night. But authorities discourage pilgrims from spending nights at the langars, citing security reasons.
WHERE TO EAT
The trek may be quite arduous but langars (community kitchens) set up by Shiva sevak mandals and samitis do make things a lot easier. Dotting the entire trek, they not only provide food and basic medication, but also accommodation, and sanitation facilities to some extent. Weeks before the yatra begins, around 100 langars from states such as Gujarat, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, Haryana and Punjab set up their tents and temporary kitchens. Half a dozen langars are located at each of the major halts on the yatra. Paranthas, milk, biscuits, chappatis, dal, rice, sweets, dosa, kheer, tea and bread — everything is available. Hence, yatris need not carry too many eatables during the pilgrimage. These langars are also the venues of late-night revelry, where Shiva-bhakts drink milk, gather in camaraderie and dance to the tune of lilting scores, celebrating in the name of Gauri-Shankar and shouting slogans such as Bhole ki fauj karegi mauj (Shiva’s army will enjoy).
TIP Smoking and drinking alcohol are strictly prohibited on the yatra. Strictly vegetarian meals are served
Preparing for the yatra
Registering for the yatra Over 6 lakh yatris perform the pilgrimage. The yatra is open only to registered pilgrims and nobody is allowed to proceed beyond Pahalgam or Baltal without a valid permit. The shrine is managed by the state government and the Shri Amarnathji Shrine Board, headed by the Governor of Jammu and Kashmir. The registration process commences much before the yatra, around mid-March, and can be done through designated branches of Jammu & Kashmir Bank and a few branches of SBI, PNB, HDFC and YES banks. The application form can be downloaded from the J&K bank website jkbank.net and the shrine board website shriamarnathjishrine.com. A medical fitness certificate is also needed to register. The date and route (Pahalgam or Baltal) are mentioned in the permit and are not changeable later.
Weather conditions Landslides triggered by torrential rains on the Srinagar-Jammu NH1A can sometimes lead to a late start or temporary suspension of the pilgrimage. The climatic conditions are uncertain. Rain or snowfall may take place at any time during the yatra. Abrupt changes in temperature might occur within a short time. The temperature may even fall to -5º C. Pilgrims may also experience breathlessness; Acclimatisation is needed at these high altitudes.
What to pack It is essential to pack warm woollen clothing, stockings and trousers, jacket, raincoat, umbrella, waterproof shoes, flashlight, walking stick, monkey cap and gloves. Also helpful are torches, with sufficient batteries, and walking sticks. Despite this long list, try to travel light. Food is available at the langars while blankets and quilts are provided in the tents.
Security arrangements Militants have made bids to disrupt the yatra. Jawans begin clearing the trek from Chandanwari and Baltal to the holy cave long before the yatra begins, removing the snow and the boulders to make the trail negotiable. A multiple cordon security blanket is also thrown along the yatra route. While the Indian Army mans the heights, BSF personnel dot the trekking route. The safety of the camps put up for the yatris at night halts is handled by the CRPF jawans. Nunwan Base Camp is cordoned off with barbed wire and iron gates. Entry and exit points are separate. Gates are shut between 10 pm and 7 am. All vehicles are stopped a kilometre short of the camp, where pilgrims are frisked thoroughly by J&K police and luggage is checked. A similar camp is set up on the other route at Baltal too. Security forces encourage yatris to opt for the shorter Baltal route, which is considered relatively secure. The 16-km stretch from Pahalgam to Chandanwari, from where the trek begins, is covered by pilgrims in a hundred designated mini-buses and taxis.
Fitness Get yourself medically examined and certified fit for the journey, as the yatra involves trekking at altitudes of 14,000 ft. At least a month or so before the yatra, start preparatory exercises: even a brisk walk of about 4-5 km a day will be beneficial. The government sets up medical camps for the yatra, but you should carry your own personal medical kit. In view of the hazardous nature of the yatra, pilgrims may insure themselves, preferably before departure from their home towns. Arrangements for accident insurance are also available at the two base camps during the yatra period.
Chhari Mubarak: Shiva’s silver mace
The Amarnath yatra commences with the ceremony of Chhari Mubarak at the Dashnami Akhara in Budshah Chowk, Srinagar, led by the mahant. If at all there is anything other than the ice linga that is important in this pilgrimage, it is this holy silver mace, which represents the mystical powers of Shiva. The Bhrngish Samhita says that Shiva gave the chhari to Rishi Kashyap and commanded that it be carried to Amarnath each year. After the ceremony, the yatri acquires a sort of symbolic walking stick. It helps him spiritually by reminding him of his resolve at the akhara when his faith begins to waver in face of a long and arduous journey.
A fortnight before Raksha Bandhan on Samawati Amavasya (August), Chhari Mubarak visits the Shankaracharya Temple in Srinagar, where puja is performed. The next day, when the bright half of the month begins, it goes to the Sharika Bhawani Temple, at Hari Parbat in downtown Srinagar. After two days, Chhari-sthapana (establishment of the chhari) and dhwajarohan ceremonies are performed at the Dashnami Akhara. A day later, on the festive occasion of Nag Panchami, Chhari pujan is performed at the akhara. Five days later, the chhari procession then leaves for the holy cave shrine of Amarnath.
During Sikh rule in Kashmir, Amritsar was the starting point of the yatra. In the 1940s, pilgrims started embarking from Srinagar, but the Giri Mahants of Amritsar still lead the pilgrimage with Chhari Mubarak from Srinagar.
On the way to Pahalgam, prayers are offered at Durganag Temple in Srinagar, the Sureshwar Temple at Sonawar, the Shiva temples at Pampore and Bijbehara, and at Martand-Tirth, the ancient Sun Temple near Anantnag. On Dashami, the Chhari Mubarak stays at Pahalgam. The next morning, the procession leaves Pahalgam and stays the night at Chandanwari, followed by night halts at Sheshnag and Panchtarni.
On Raksha Bandhan, Chhari pujan is performed at the holy cave. Those pilgrims who do the yatra from the Pahalgam route on the last few days and arrive at the holy cave on Raksha Bandhan, can walk up along with the Chhari. The holy mace is then brought back to the Pahalgam base camp for visarjan (immersion) in the Lidder River.
FAST FACTS
When to go The yatra to the holy cave used to begin around Ashad Purnima in mid-July and concluded on Shravan Purnima in mid-August, which is the day of Raksha Bandhan. Over the years, the number of pilgrims has swelled and the duration of the yatra in 2013 was increased to 55 days, beginning June 28
Tourist offices
J&K Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre, Srinagar, Tel: 0194-2452691, 2479548, Toll-free Tel: 18001031060, Website: jktourism.org
Director Tourism (Kashmir), TRC, Srinagar, Tel: 2472449
Director Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre,Vir Marg, Jammu, Tel: 0191-2548172; Telefax: 2548358
Shri Amarnathji Shrine Board, Help Desk, Srinagar, Tel: 0194-2501679, Mob: 09469722210, Email: [email protected], Website: shriamarnathijshrine.com, STD codes 1936 Pahalgam, 1932 Baltal
GETTING THERE
Location The Amarnath cave is at the head of the Sind River Valley, 32 km north-east of Pahalgam at an altitude of 12,723 ft, flanked by the Great Himalayan Range to the north and the Sachkach mountains to the south
Distances 131 km NE of Srinagar via Pahalgam, 108 km NE of Srinagar via Baltal; 320 km NE of Jammu via Pahalgam
Route from Srinagar via Pahalgam NH1A to Khanabal via Avantipora; Khanabal- Pahalgam State Highway to Chandanwari via Anantnag and Pahalgam; trek to Amarnath
Route from Srinagar via Baltal NH1D to Baltal via Ganderbal, Kangan, Mamer, Gagangir and Sonamarg; trek to Amarnath
Route from Jammu NH1A to Khanabal via Udhampur and Patnitop; Khanabal-Pahalgam State Highway to Chandanwari via Anantnag and Pahalgam; trek to Amarnath
Air Nearest airport: Srinagar (96 km to Pahalgam, 93 km to Baltal). Average cost of a taxi to either Pahalgam or Baltal is about ₹3,000. A helicopter service ferries devotees from Pahalgam or Baltal to Panchtarni, removing many stages of the trek. Bookings must be made much in advance. In 2013, M/s Global Vectra (Web: onlineglobalhelicorp.com), Pawan Hans (Web: pawanhans.co.in) and Himalayan Heli Services Pvt Ltd (Web: himalayanheli.com) served Amarnath. Cost: ₹1,500 for Baltal-Panchtarni and ₹2,400 for Pahalgam-Panchtarni
Rail Nearest railhead: Jammu Tawi (319 km/ hrs), well connected to the rest of the country by trains. For onward travel, see Road below
Road Deluxe, semi-deluxe and ordinary buses ply from the main Jammu Bus Stand to Pahalgam (287 km) and to Baltal (391 km). Also, 7-seater and 5- seater taxis are available from Jammu to Pahalgam (₹360 and ₹540 per person respectively). Note that buses from Jammu to Pahalgam arrive the same day, but must make a night halt at Srinagar en route to Baltal. It is better to proceed in a group in a taxi. From Srinagar, JKSRTC (Tel: 0194-2455107) buses are also available (₹280) to Pahalgam, but these are very slow
Amarnath
Amarnath Yatra
Jammu Kashmir & Ladakh Guide
