We fell in love with Emerald Trail in Kumaon in its very first season a few years ago. The high perch, the winding road from Bhimtal, the walking trails, the middle of nowhereness… We even shared the owner’s excitement over a milky cup of tea, as he led us from one end to the other, pointing at empty pens and overgrown hedges, talking animatedly about his organic dreams. Happily, the empty pen now has fowl, we’re told, and where the hedges ran amok, there are trees laden with fruit. There are cows too and a patch of green for vegetables and grain. Now abundant with enough milk, eggs and vegetables to run the kitchen, solar-powered mod cons and a catchment area for rainwater harvesting, this pet-friendly homestay has finally become the grown-up farmstay it always wanted to be. Tariff from Rs 3,800 doubles, all-inclusive. Contact 9833949954, emeraldtrail.in