The road less taken

Before the 1962 war, the communities of northern Kumaon and Garhwal were some of the most prosperous in the Himalaya. Their prosperity owed to a thriving trade with Tibetan villages just across the many passes that score the Himalayan range in this region. Some of these passes have fallen into disuse while others are often frequented by trekkers. But this trek from the Girthi valley in Garhwal to the Johar valley in Kumaon over the historic Unta Dhura pass has to be one of the best going. Only a half-dozen or so trekking parties have done this crossing, so read up if you want to venture off the beaten path: drive to Malari in the Dhauli Ganga valley, and follow the Girthi Ganga valley to join the old trading route at Topidunga camping ground. From here the trail crosses the Unta Dhura pass and enters the Johar valley. The trail ends at Munsiyari and the entire traverse takes about a fortnight.

The information

You’ll need Inner Line Permits from the District Magistrate’s office in Gopeshwar (01372–252102) for Garhwal and the DM’s office in Pithoragarh (05964–225301) for Kumaon. You’ll also need to deposit a draft for Rs 10,000 at the Divisional Forest Office in Joshimath. Once you’ve got the necessary permits, report at the Army (GSO) in Tapovan, Joshimath. For logistics, get in touch with Mountain Shepherds (mountainshepherds.com) or Snow Crystal Adventures (uttarakhandtrekking.com)