Fast facts
State: Rajasthan
Distance: 258 km SW of Delhi
When to go: Late October to March or in the monsoons. Summers are very hot
Tourist Offices: Tourist Reception Centre, Government Hostel Campus MI Road, Jaipur
Tel: 0141-5110598
Tourist Reception Centre Bikaner House, Pandara Road, New Delhi
Tel: 011-23389525
Web: rajasthantourism.gov.in, rtdc.in
STD code: 0141

Getting there
Air: Jaipur’s Sanganer Airport
Rail: Jaipur Station
Road: From Delhi take NH8 to Jaipur via Gurgaon, Dharuhera, Behror, Shahpura, Kot Putli, Chandwaji and Amer

Sawai Jai Singh II, who founded Jaipur in 1727 Jaipur’s founder, belonged to the Kachhwaha Rajput clan, which emerged as a strong force towards the end of the 16th century, when Man Singh I established the Amer (Amber) Fort in 1592. The Sawai, after whom the city is named, felt the need to find a more appropriate capital for his kingdom owing to an increase in population and a resulting scarcity of resources. Construction of this new capital began in 1727 according to the principles of Vaastu and Shilpa Shastra, scientific traditions of Indian architecture. Thus the city came into being.

Centuries later, the walled city of Jaipur lives up to its reputation as a pretty, planned metropolis for the most part: its enchanting bazaars bear their heritage with pride, it’s perfectly laid-out streets are easily navigated and the uniform pink hue of the ancient city walls as well as the grand, regal monuments evoke a flamboyant past. Even though it is widely considered a perfect embodiment of the bygone era, the Jaipur of today seeks a balance between the modern and the ancient, between gleaming malls and resplendent palaces. 

Things to see and do
Apart from the major monuments that are located within the walled city of Jaipur, the forts of Amer, Jaigarh and Nahargarh are unmissable for tourists. A visit to the forts will take up an entire day. Reserve at least four days to explore Jaipur in its entirety.

Walled City
When Jai Singh felt the need to move his capital from Amer to a bigger city, he called upon the Bengali architect Vidhyadhar Chakravorty, who formalised the new city’s plans according to a grid system. After dividing the city into nine blocks, or chowkries, and laying down wide and straight streets, he encircled it by a formidable wall. As Jai Singh had the city map before him, it was an easy task for him to allot a different area for each trade. Two of the chowkries, taking up about one- seventh of the total area, were allocated to build the palace complex. The other seven blocks were given equal attention, with pretty buildings lining the streets. 

Bazaars
The main bazaars are located within the walled city. The area opposite Hawa Mahal is Sireh Deori Bazaar, which has shops selling colourful textiles, light quilts, puppets, leather footwear, jewellery and other handicrafts. All the markets are located around the two main city blocks, or chaupars. Just after Hawa Mahal is the main square called Badi Chaupar, which leads to some interesting bazaars such as the Ramganj Bazaar to the east, where you can see leather shoemakers at work. To the west is the Tripolia Bazaar, known for its steel and brass utensils.

Johari Bazaar, south of Badi Chaupar, is famous for bandhani and block-printed textiles. Towards the east is the other end of Tripolia Bazaar (it starts from Badi Chaupar), with its metal shops. At a small lane called Maniharon ka Raasta, off Tripolia Bazaar, you can watch lac bangle-makers at work. To the south is Kishan-pol Bazaar, which has wood cots, jute strings and silver items. To the east is Chandpol Bazaar; and Jaipur’s marble workers and painters are to be found at the Khazane Walon ka Raasta here. The other two important markets within the walled city are Bapu Bazaar and Nehru Bazaar.

Havelis
Jaipur’s businessmen made lavish havelis in the city, embellished with arched entrances, carved balconies, coloured-glass windows and painted chambers. Nattani ki Haveli, which overlooks Chhoti Chaupar, Haveli of Vidhyadhar Chakravorty, Jaipur’s architect and Nawab Saheb ki Haveli (terrace open to tourists), both near Tripolia Gate, Rajputana Haveli at Ramganj Chaupar and hotels Narayan Niwas and Samode Haveli are some examples.

Amer
About 10 km north of Jaipur, Amer was the capital of Kachhwaha Rajputs for 700 years (1037-1727) and is a beautiful, almost golden fort-palace that tops the city. The fort here was established in 1592 by Man Singh I. The fort looks stunning, straddling the hillside, reflected on the surface of the small Maota Lake. You can walk up, or take an elephant ride, which takes 10 mins. It’s also possible to drive up from the rear portion of the fort.

City Palace
The City Palace complex, an integral part of the walled city, is a sprawling enclosure with many courtyards, gateways and gardens. Enter from Atish Pol, and go on to Mubarak Mahal, which has an exquisitely decorated marble and sandstone exterior. Now the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum, it  displays costumes, weapons, miniature paintings, rare manuscripts and other historical memorabilia. North of the Mubarak Mahal is the Sileh Khana, believed to have been part of the Department of Music and Dance. It now houses an armoury.  Located on a raised platform in the inner courtyard is the Diwan-e-Khas, a large, pillared hall with rows of elegant marble pillars and arches. Diwan-e-Aam, the hall of public audience, is an enclosed area where durbars and ceremonies were held. Built by Sawai Pratap Singh, this huge hall has painted walls, cut-glass chandeliers and massive marble pillars.

Jantar Mantar
Sawai Jai Singh II’s Jantar Mantar Observatory, completed in 1734, has an extraordinary collection of complex astronomical instruments. This one is the largest and the best preserved out of the five that he built in the country.

Hawa Mahal
Also called the Palace of Winds, Hawa Mahal is the most widely recognised monument of Jaipur. Sawai Pratap Singh (r. 1778-1803) built this rather unusual palace in 1799. It has 953 ornate sandstone windows said to have been used by royal women to watch street  processions through the perforated stone screens. 

Albert Hall Museum
This impressive museum, now called the Central Government Museum, is located in Ram Niwas Bagh, a public garden built in 1868 by Sawai Ram Singh II and modelled on the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Located 6 km to the east of Jaipur is the Sisodia Rani ka Bagh, the garden built for the second wife of Maharaja Jai Singh II, a Sisodia princess from Udaipur. The double-storeyed palace comprises open halls and multilevel terrace gardens with pavilions.

Other Attractions
Of the forts Sawai Jai Singh built on the outskirts of the city, Jaigarh was built in 1726 and was once the royal treasury. Nahargarh was built in 1734 and was used by the royal women to enjoy the weather. Jal Mahal is an 18th-century palace on the Man Sagar lake on Amer Road. It is being opened to the public after 300 years following a major restoration. About 6 km from Jaipur, Gaitore complex houses the cenotaphs erected in the memory of the deceased rulers of Jaipur. Galta (10 km), one of the most evocative places in this area, is perched between cliff faces on a rocky gorge and surrounded by temples and seven sacred pools. On the ridge is the 18th-century Sun Temple.

Jaipur Literary Festival
Held between 21st and 25th January every year, the most reputed of India’s literary festivals has hosted the likes of Salman Rushdie, Wole Soyinka and Ian McEwan. Events are held at Diggi Palace, cocktails at Amer and meals at Rambagh. All talks, readings, films and workshops are free for the public.

Where to stay
Jaipur has 7-star hotels that give you a taste of royalty, the personal yet palatial havelis of erstwhile aristocrats, as well as relatively inexpensive homestays in pleasant parts of the town.

The Oberoi Rajvilas (Tel: 0141-2680101; Tariff: INR 48,000-5,00,000; www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-jaipur) is not a heritage hotel but its 32 landscaped acres create a palatial world. Chokhi Dhani (Tel: 5165000; Tariff: INR 8,500-35,000; www.chokhidhani.com), 12 km from town, is an unusual luxury hotel with a rural museum, camels, carnival-like ambience and great food. Jaipur Inn (Tel: 2201121; Tariff: INR 1,250-5,000; www.jaipur-inn.com) offers pleasant rooms. Arya Niwas (Tel: 4073450/ 56; Tariff: INR 1,850-2,300; www.aryaniwas.com) is a charming, value-for-money hotel set in an old house. It’s spotless and well run. About 42 km from Jaipur, the luxurious Samode Palace (Tel: 01423-240013/ 14; Tariff: INR 19,500-41,500; www.samode.com) is on the international celebrity wishlist.

Where to eat
Jaipur offers North Indian, Continental, Chinese, Thai, Gujarati and, of course, Rajasthani cuisine. For Rajasthani dishes, try Copper Chimney, Apno Rajasthan, Surabhi, Spice Court and Chokhi Dhani (their gatte ki subzi, ker sangri and lahsun mirch ki chutney are excellent). LMB in the old city is for aloo tikki, dahi vada and chaat; Rawat Mishthan Bhandar, near Polo Victory, for mirchi vada and mawa ki kachori; and Shankar Namkeen Bhandar, off Chaura Raasta, for mixed namkeen.





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