When the news broke a few weeks ago, it was a summer treat for Kashmir and all the scores of people who’d love to more fully explore the beautiful state.


One ‘sensitive area’, the beautiful Nagin Valley, located barely five kilometres from the Line of Control, under the Affarwat range in western Kashmir, is now officially open.


A cool 9,000ft above sea level, the mist-shrouded meadows of Botpathri were a favourite with trekkers before 1990. The army then closed this area, and the closest you could get to Nagin was Gulmarg, only ten kilometres away. The Nagin Valley is part of the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve, an area famous for its blue pines, deodars, lush alpine meadows and animals ranging from the musk deer and leopard to the red fox and the hangul (Kashmir stag). The climate is quite wet, which results in lovely blooms all year round. It’s an ecologically fragile place, and given the extent to which Gulmarg has been overrun by tourists, the state is taking a more considered view of tourism here. So no hotels as of now, and no camping either, until the army thinks visitors won’t affect security considerations. But at least you can visit this lovely place.


Make a day trip from Gulmarg and stay at the Pine Palace (from Rs 2,200; 01954-254466).

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