Kashmir: 5 Offbeat Destinations

YUSMARG
A 45-km drive from Srinagar, passing apple and walnut orchards along the way, takes us to Yusmarg or Yousmarg in the Badgam district of western Kashmir. Yusmarg, which means ‘Jesus meadow’, has lush green meadows fringed with thick wooded alpine forests in every pos­sible hue of green—mint, apple, lime, em­erald, and more. Snow-capped peaks en­circle and jealously guard this divine and little known slice of paradise. Still rather raw and intact, the grassy knolls teem with horses, sheep and conifers. The centre of Yusmarg is the JKTDC guest house huts, scattered cottages across acres of rolling meadows, with a lake in the distance. The views are stunning, much like an alpine valley in Europe. A four-kilometre horse ride deep into the woods takes you through some incred­ible landscapes, while a babbling stream snakes its way through the pine trees. In the distance, the Nilnag lake, cradled in the hills, shimmers.

Places To Stay
We stayed at the JKTDC guest house (Rs.750 per night for two people; jktdc.co.in). The location is fabulous and surrounded by meadows on all sides. The whole area is fenced to protect guests from the wild animals. If you are lucky, you will have electricity for a few hours a day. Yusmarg is crowded from 11am to 4pm on week­ends, with school picnics, local tourists and pony handlers. The place is absolutely quite and deserted otherwise. The JKTDC restaurant here serves delicious food.

Around Yusmarg
Shopian and Pulwama are the closest towns.

ARU VALLEY
Aru Valley is a 12-km drive from Pahalgam in the An­antnag District of Jammu & Kashmir. Reputed to be the smallest hill station in the state, Aru is a veritable treat for nature lovers and adventurers alike. It is dotted with waterfalls, tur­quoise brooks, deodars, and pines. The upstream Lidder River wraps around the beautiful valley like a pale blue satin ribbon. The snow-topped mountains and lush meadows vie for attention. A pony ride from the Aru village is perhaps the best way to take in the breathtaking Lidderwat Valley if you are pressed for time. The village is also a base point from where you can trek to Kolohoi Glacier or to Tarsar-Mansar Lake. The nearby Overa Aru Wildlife Sanctuary is home to rare species such as the hangul, the musk deer, the brown bear and the snow leopard, and is spread over 500 square kilometres.

Places To Stay
There are many budget inns and guest­houses, including Aru Ecoresort campsite (Rs.2,820 onwards; aruecoresort.com). We camped at Traveller’s Inn in Pahalgam. The location is fabulous with a blue stream flowing right through the property.

Around Aru
Betaab Valley and Baisaaran are close by.

BRENG
Around 85-km Southeast of Srinagar is the Breng District of Kashmir, including Kokernag, which is home to the largest natural spring in the Kash­mir valley. The name derives from the springs and their many tributaries which take the shape of the claws of a rooster or Koker. Known for their curative proper­ties, these springs and botanical gardens draw hundreds of visitors to Kokernag and its neighbour, Verinag. Grassy knolls, crisp clean skies, the fragrance of blooms in the air, all make Kokernag a great weekend getaway option.

A 30-minute drive away from Koker­nag is Daksum, with its enchanting waterfalls, pine-covered hills and grassy meadows and streams. Relax near a bab­bling brook in the woods and get carried away by the distant strains of a flute from a passing shepherd. In the distance, as always, the snow-capped peaks stand guard. Daksum is an enchanting and peaceful stopover en route to the mighty Sinthan Top.

The steep climb up to Sinthan Top is an adrenaline rush. It is one of the prettiest drives in the Kashmir Valley, made even more worthwhile by a 48-kilometre smooth, winding road. The twists and turns make you gasp, not only at the unfolding natural beauty at every bend, but as the climb is so steep and rapid, breathing becomes laboured. Sinthan Top itself is barren, windy and bitingly cold, and at a height of 3,748m, it remains snowbound for most of the year. The views are stunning—rain clouds in the distance and snow peaks as far as the eye can see.

Places To Stay
For Breng, the JKTDC guest house in Kokernag (Rs.2,000; jktdc.co.in) is a good option. There are many private guesthouses as well.

Around Kokernag
Margan Top, Achabal and Verinag are close by.

GUREZ
Gurez, 130-km from Sri­nagar, at the edge of North Kashmir, has been only open to tourists in the last few years due to its proximity to the LoC. Remote, steeped in history, untouched and rarely visited, Gurez is a gem and completely worth the seven-hour drive from Sri­nagar. The 58-km road from Srinagar to Bandipore passes through spectacular views of the Manasbal and Wular lakes. From Bandipore it is a steep uphill drive, and the roads are narrow and very bumpy. It’s best to hire a Sumo at Ban­dipore for the journey. Enroute, distant snow-capped peaks, an intensely azure sky, forested pine woods and, of course, the Razdan Pass at 3,300m is a great spot to halt for a much needed cuppa. The Gurez Valley takes your breath away. The mighty Kishenganga River flows in from Pakistan as the Neelum, and its many brooks, streams and tributaries, gush and gurgle right through the valley. The Gurez Valley falls along the section of the ancient Silk Route which con­nected the Kashmir Valley with Gilgit. The people of Gurez are a tribe called the Dards, believed to be descendants of the Greek garrison that Alexander’s army left behind. The place appears frozen in time with its wooden log huts, charming hamlets, shepherds and its majestic, raw backdrop. There’s no internet, and barely a signal anyway. The iconic pyramidi­cal limestone mountain Habba Khatun, named after the famed Kashmiri poetess, is the central attraction in the valley.

Places To Stay
The only place to stay in Gurez is the new JKTDC Dawar Guest House (Rs.700; jktdc.co.in) and the neighbouring Dak Bungalow. The guest house has comfortable beds, hot water and you can get a hearty meal rustled up by the resident cook.

Around Gurez
The beautiful Tulail Valley is about 35-40 minutes away.

ALPATHER LAKE
Alpather Lake, AKA Frozen Lake , is one of the many high-altitude lakes in the Kashmir Valley. Very few people visit this lake in Gulmarg as it is located at an altitude of 17,500 feet and close to the LoC. The lake is frozen for nine months of the year. The army has only recently allowed treks to the lake though it is a two-hour trek at 3,500 feet above Gondola Phase 2 in Gulmarg. Not for the faint-hearted, this is an arduous, steep climb but the views are breathtak­ing throughout. Barren and surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains, you can see an army dirt road going up to the last Indian post, beyond which is Pakistan. The lake is pristine, with crystal clear freezing cold water, which tastes divine.

Places To Stay
We stayed at the Nedous (Rs.6,000 onwards; nedoushotel­gulmarg.com). The neighbouring Highland Park is also lovely. There are hundreds of stay op­tions at Gulmarg, right from the many budget options like Hotel Affarwat to the high-end Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa (khyberhotels.com).

Around Alpather Lake
The lake is located beyond Aparwath, while Gulmarg, about 35km away, is the closest town, while Srinagar is about 85 km to the east.