DELHI Blue Ginger, Taj Palace
A predictable entrée in this buffet, yes, but the French-colonial charm of
Kiyan, Dusit Devarana
We have found a new favourite dining ‘destination’ this winter, and it’s one we think is worth driving out to. The ambience is second to none, seriously—a (not-so-little) private woodland, with a waterfront patio frequented by ducks who like the (excellent) bread, and kingfishers and tree pies; plus an indoor restaurant with a brass tree sculpture complete with nesting birds…and the self-assurance to stay well clear of buffet dinners. The eats are innovative—the chef is a former Olive hat and outdoes himself with the plating as much as the pairings of ingredients. The tomato clementine soup is a classic here, and the coffee-saucy toffee pudding to end an absolute must. In between, you can’t go wrong with the homemade gnudi or the Thai-style duck with its coconutty broth. Meal for two Rs 2,200 Contact: 33552211, devarana.in
Indian Grill Room
The 20,000 sq ft tandoori place came highly recommended, so we bit the buffet despite our misgivings. The first surprise is the location: atop Gurgaon’s Suncity Business Tower, desolate at dinner time. The second is the décor: not the usual brass and brocade, but largely white-upholstered rosewood plus a waterbodied terrace. The chai sangria is a fun chaser for the excellent grills, both meaty and subz-y, from Hindu Kush kebabs to Karuvepillai meen. Which is to say that this is not your typical upscaled dhaba/curry joint. And you could easily make a meal off the barbecue coals alone with their set menu, updated monthly. Grills are served table-side and the mains make you walk off the excess with a visit to the buffet counter, for say cabbage biryani (ha, yes!). And the gulabi kheer lets you end dinner with a fine flourish, if they have it, served in a tumbler on ice! Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 0124-4477806, indiangrillroom.com
Cheri One Qutub
It’s just one of those courtyard restaurants, yes, but we just couldn’t resist. For one thing, we’ve been wanting a good rendition of a bistro-style eatery for a while, emphasis on ‘eat’ and ‘style’, please. And Cheri ticks the boxes. It’s the place to go for a quick European bite before heading out to the Blue Frog for a night of it (less pricey and precious than the club’s own restaurant) or a lazy lunch after Qutub gazing (from the terrace?), and the fine-dining indoor space is cosy with its vintage chic décor. Interestingly, the emphasis is not on imported cuts so much as local ingredients, which is a welcome change in the capital—and nor will you miss the Patagonian toothfish when chowing down on their excellent sea bass risotto. The outdoor wood pizza oven and live barista are justly popular, and the rest of the menu is fun, from chicken Waldorf veloute and steamed duck to basil brûlée with raspberry ice cream. Meal for two: Rs 2,500 Contact: 8800480048, facebook.com/cheri.onequtub
Rara Avis
Not just fine-dining, but even French, forsooth! And with no overstated hype either. This is a rare bird alright that’s landed in the capital—and much to our surprise (more a comment on the Delhi crowds than its diners), is still going strong since last year. Its mascot is a peacock-plumed lion-headed horse. And its fantastic appearance matches the quality of your meal, both on the plate and around you. The menu is straightforward without much in the way of ‘modern’ flourishes—and the cooking good enough to stand proud without any. Solid, unapologetic staples that one doesn’t see often enough in these parts include the snails in garlic butter, fish and prawn dumplings, Armoricaine fish quenelles, Basque style tuna, and pear and almond tart, as well as the safe bets of French onion soup and confit de canard. But make sure not to miss the Flammenkuche section, France’s equivalent of the pizza. Mal for two: Rs 2,800 Contact: 41085544, raraavis.in
Also…
Guppy by AI
Japanese excellence at cut price for you, that’s what this little Lodi Colony fish promises in its unexpectedly Nippon-pop interiors. And not just fresh sushi and sashimi either, though you can’t go wrong with those. But the set meals are very good value and precisely executed for the most part. Several chopsticks above the other pretenders. Meal for two: Rs 3,000 Contact 24690005, facebook.com/Guppybyai
Megu
Japanese provides another sure-shot bet with this NYC import at the Leela Palace. Megu’s pricing is stratospheric, yes, and its ambience refreshingly ‘modern Asian’. You have also, unusually, the option of more or less formality for your dining environment. Your meal will be authentic, but trendy. We do like the Wagyu croquettes as well as the unagi (eel) teriyaki and curry-flavoured okaki potato steak. If you’re playing cheapskate, get the Zen sushi platter and share (it comes with sides). Meal for two: Rs 5,500 Contact: 39331234, megurestaurants.com
On the Waterfont
Not new but newly refurbished into the OTW as the Aman (re)rebranded itself the Lodi. If ambience is worth paying for, it is also worth paying extra for the Jetty tables on the waterfront (yes, in the middle of Delhi city!). The menu ranges from Mediterranean (predictable but very well executed) to Indian (commendable if not superlative) and Eastern-South Asian (excellent). Meal for two: Rs 3,500 Contact: 43633411, thelodhi.com
Uzuri Deck & Dining
An interesting idea to capitalise on underexplored Africa, though the menu actually reveals more from the other side of the Mediterranean. But there is a good amount of experimentation going on in this smart-casual joint, with a chicken and prawn soup featuring a rooibos broth, confit salmon with pickled vegetables (including the much-maligned kohlrabi), African yam stew with Earl Grey-scented cauliflower couscous and semi-frozen (chocolate) truffles on chocolate soil. Meal for two: Rs 2,600 Contact: 41623623, facebook.com/Uzuri
Zerzura
More African inflection, which seems en vogue in the capital just as trendy Japanese seems to have become a classic with staying power. The Clarion’s Med resto-bar has Moorish overtones in appearance, and ranges from Iranian-style kebabs (comfortingly familiar to Indian tastes) to seafood tagines and quails pan-speared Spanish-style. Pizza toppings are thematic, hence unusual. Desserts may be the weak point. Meal for two: Rs 4,000 Contact 26566144, zerzura.in
Manidipa Mandal
MUMBAI
The Pantry, Kala Ghoda
An inviting white façade, charming pastel interiors and large windows overlooking the atmospheric lanes of Fort—all this makes The Pantry a popular little place to meet friends or grab a healthy lunch. Patrons are urged to “eat in harmony with the season”, and the menu is big on fresh fruits and vegetables sourced from organic farms. At breakfast you can tuck into a healthy primavera frittata packed with spinach, red pepper and mushroom or the red-millet banana pancakes. At lunch, depending on the time of year, you can enjoy a light leek, zucchini and sweet lime soup or hearty mushroom barley broth, along with a sausage roll or cheese and pepper toastie made with walnut and raisin bread. Or, better still, you can visit The Pantry when the rest of Mumbai is in office or at school. And then linger over a pomegranate and sweet lime juice, a sinful chocolate chip cookie and a juicy murder mystery. Meal for two: Rs 900 Contact: 022-22678901
Sassy Spoon, Nariman Point
There’s a lot to keep you occupied in Sassy Spoon. A signboard made out of an old-fashioned bicycle, twinkly fairy lights, a wall covered with vintage bags and trunks that introduce a whiff of adventure and romance. And, of course, a menu full of unexpected combinations and fusion creations. Sassy Spoon does a wonderful job with standard dishes like the zingy spaghetti with lemon beurre noisette or the nutty ricotta ravioli served with truffle butter and shaved black truffle. But anybody who is feeling adventurous should experiment with the restaurant’s innovative mix-and-match dishes. For example, the extraordinary oven-roasted ravas served with a piquant puli kozhambu and a delicate lemongrass risotto. Or the roast beef sandwich spiced up with a kasundi mayo. Or a variation of galouti kebabs, served with minted sour cream and Nordic crisps. For dessert you can continue the fusion theme by binging on a fennel liqueur-flavoured bread pudding layered with gulab jamun. Or, just do the sensible thing, and head straight for their spectacular ice creams served in little chai glasses. Meal for two Rs 3,000 Contact: 22888222
Oye Kake, Fort
Unlike the other restaurants in this list, Oye Kake can never be described as elegant or stylish. But the colourful, clattery eatery whips up a wonderful, affordable Punjabi meal—and adds welcome variety to the city’s foodscape. Oye Kake makes its vegetarian North Indian food with water brought all the way from Amritsar and works hard to recreate authentic flavours. The stuffed kulchas are crisp on the outside, wonderfully soft in the middle, and served with flavourful chhole. The stuffed tandoori parathas come with thick dahi and yummy maa ki daal. The masala papad is gobble-worthy—though the restaurant’s regulars seem hooked onto papdi paneer cheese shots served in little glasses. The sweet lassi is sublimely creamy, as is the chilled rabdi. Oye Kake is the perfect place to go when you are in the mood for a great, big, spicy, buttery meal served in a cheery environment. Meal for two: Rs 500 Contact: 22871882
Suzette, Nariman Point and Bandra
A meal at tiny Suzette comes with its share of problems. You often have to queue up for a table, and when you finally get one you may end up banging elbows with the people next to you. And occasionally you have to wait forever for your melty Belgian chocolate crepe, especially if it gets stuck behind a big takeaway order. Never mind. This is a small price to pay for the fabulous buckwheat crepes that Suzette dishes up with such panache. Suzette’s crepes are those rare inventions that find equal favour with both adults and children. Safe options for children include the crepe stuffed with Emmenthal and smoky chicken bacon, and also the classic crepe with lemon and sugar. Adults can try the more complex varieties—a personal favourite is the one with blue cheese, mozzarella, fresh cream and toasted walnuts. So experiment and enjoy! But remember to keep plenty of tummy space for the dessert crepes at the end. Meal for two: Rs 1500 Contact: 22880055, suzette.in
Le Cirque, The Leela, Andheri
For almost four decades, Le Cirque has lorded it over New York—an almost unimaginable feat in that most fickle and faddish of cities. So the arrival of this iconic restaurant in Mumbai is a cause for excitement. The spanking new Le Cirque Signature occupies an elegant space in The Leela. But more than the décor, this restaurant is about exquisite food. After carefully observing Mumbai’s tastes, Chef Matteo Boglione has created a menu that is a mix of Le Cirque standards, his own innovations and made-for-Mumbai specials. So diners get to sample trademark dishes like spaghetti primavera and crème brûlée, but also delightful creations like Caprese II—two versions of the classic Italian appetiser made with tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. The Dover Sole Almondine is delicious, the delicate flavour of the fish enhanced by the crunch of almonds. While the lobster risotto has a rich taste and texture. Clearly, it’s a good thing that the circus has come to town! Meal for two: Rs 6,000 Contact: 66911234, theleela.com
Also…
Nico Bombay, Kala Ghoda
For such a small restaurant, Nico Bombay has been making a lot of noise. Both the food and custom-made interiors have caught the imagination of the city. A nice place to soak in the old-New-York atmosphere and order from a menu that features delicacies like burrata and quail’s egg. Meal for two: Rs 2,500 Contact: 22624466
Masala Library, Bandra Kurla
Jiggs Kalra’s newest enterprise offers Indian food with a twist—and a little molecular gastronomy. The menu boasts dishes like mishti doi lolly, andaa bhurji kulchas, guchhi naans, Gujarati kadhi risottos, watermelon chaat and pesto kabab. All these come beautifully plated—and are often accompanied by a theatrical scientific demo. Little wonder, this has become the new corporate-crowd favourite. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 66424142
Yauatcha, Bandra Kurla
A haven for those who love dim sum and fine teas. Here you can nibble on your sticky rice in lotus leaf, poached peking dumpling and pan-fried turnip cake, while enjoying the drama of the open kitchen and indulging in a spot of people-watching. Meal for two: Rs 3,000 Contact: 26448888, yauatcha.com/mumbai
Cafe Zoe, Parel
The high ceilings, scrubbed wooden tables and exposed bare walls all contribute to the feeling that this charming brasserie has been teleported from Rome or Paris. The menu is eclectic, the burgers and pastas are enjoyable and the atmosphere relaxed. All of which has made this a bustling hangout in midtown Mumbai. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 24902085, cafezoe.in
Umame, Churchgate
For years, Joss was the kind of place where you went to celebrate a family occasion. Then the pan-Asian restaurant vanished, and reappeared a little distance away as Umame. This comfortable restaurant serves a dependable range of Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian and Malaysian fare—and while it lacks the flourishes of so many new Mumbai restaurants, it always provides a satisfying meal. Meal for two: Rs 3,500
Shabnam Minwalla
KOLKATA
Jhaal Farezi
Atmosphere rules the bill of fare here, at this whitewashed colonial bungalow with a courtyard café, another one with barber chairs for its industrial-chic icon as well as the colonial-kitschy fine-dining space upstairs with tarted-up formal furniture (colourful, mismatched, kantha-worked) and contemporary art spanning the walls, from Orijit Sen comics to a wine-bottle installation. It comes with a Drama Queen room attached, defined solely by things on the walls. Though, really, artwork and fun interiors are everywhere in this mansion, right up to the Music Room. The menu at the main dining room is ambitious in being decidedly Raj retro, with nostalgic Old Calcutta classics such as prawn cocktail and fish meunière alongside such family favourites as chicken with mango kasundi and posto (poppy seeds) and Anglo-Indian (but of course) ball curry. This is risky business, because the older patrons will be comparing it unfavourably (but of course, with Bongs!) to their own family cookbooks and defunct Park Street haunts, while the younger ones may just be puzzled and unimpressed. Well, all we have to say is, we keep hearing good things about it instead! Meal for two: Rs 1,500 Contact: 033-66064206, jhaalfarezi.in
Tamara
Unexpectedly luxe Oriental décor and a tongue-in-cheek menu apparently made up of ‘global’ crowd pleasers may make the best of first impressions. However, the chef’s innovation and execution alone catapult this new hotel restaurant to the top ranks in the city. Commendable dishes include the camembert-stuffed veg galouti, ‘angry’ asparagus rolls, cold melon soup, Chittagong-style seafood steamer soup and the chicken quenelles. The surprises are a nice and welcome touch, not so common in Kolkata: a watermelon amuse bouche, the complimentary palate cleansers like tamarind granita and chamomile shots, and the rice crisp-y chocolates that come at the end…though you should still order the chocolate samosas. Meal for two: Rs 1,400 Contact: 30606060, pipaltreehotel.com
Durbari
Tamara’s closest competition quite literally, the Swissotel’s speciality pan-Indian eatery has more of a contemporary, smart-casual feel, unusual for its genre. As with its food, the concept may be unsurprising but execution is pitch perfect, never ever straying into cloying or overdone. There are Kashmiri, Rajasthani and Hyderabadi flavours brought up-to-current alongside the inevitable ‘North Indian’ and Bengali. The usual suspects fare better for the twist, like in the pili mirch ke tangdi kebab (drumsticks marinated in yellow chilli) or the honey-glazed shahad murgh tikka or the clove-smoked dhuwan gosht. The shorbas are special, and, for once in Kolkata, there’s plenty of choice beyond paneer for vegetarians, including masala roesti, dalcha kebab, potatoes or spinach cooked with your choice of second-fiddle veggies. Even the good old fresh fruit platter comes with a saffron yoghurt dip. Sometimes, you do get what you pay for. Meal for two: Rs 2,500 Contact: 66266666, swissotel.com/kolkata
The Corner Courtyard
Another place where location makes the meal. This century-old South Kolkata mansion has given up its courtyard and private quarters to plate up a black-and-white chessboard fine-dining hall and stately old-fashioned furniture, as well as a ‘corridor restaurant’ and a café popular for its baking. The menu features ‘world cuisine’: smoked chicken and apples with crushed tortilla chips in an updated Caesar; Jewish spiced beetroot and chickpea farce; Persian vegetables and seaweed spiked crispy wraps; Romanian bacon-wrapped prawns with olive tapenade; pumpkin, mushroom and spinach lasagna; ‘gourmet’ burgers and pizzas (such as a rum-flavoured spicy barbecued chicken pizza, Caribbean street style, apparently)—all very prettily plated. Ambitious and fusion-ish, competently done though sometimes more innovative in the conceptualisation and execution. The selection of profiteroles and seasonally inflected pannacottas are sturdy choices off the short dessert menu—or you could pop over to the Rouge café for a cupcake. Meal for two: Rs 1,700 Contact: 40610145, facebook.com/TheCornerCourtyard
Sonar Tori
This out-of-the-way gem is an older cousin of Jhaal Farezi, but with big Bong platters rather than Anglo eats. Zamindari and rustic (grameen) and Islamic-inflected thali options at the Ganga Kutir resort are served in delightfully hyper-Bengali surroundings nostalgically overstuffed by Sabyasachi Mukherjee with rescued artefacts of a bygone era—very much the North Kolkata bhodrolok’s grand boithok (drawing room) with an excess of framed pictures and mirrors, grilles from old houses fallen apart and recused wooden doors…Indeed, rumour has it the entire building is built of reclaimed bricks! The dishes served in this ‘golden boat’ on the Hooghly are quintessentially Bengali home cooking—but many of the effort-intensive sort not often dished up in contemporary homes, like the banana-blossom pulao, dal with fish head, and banana-stem chorchori—served up on heavy brass plates with cutlery to match and gamchha napkins. Meal for two Rs 1,600 Contact 40404040, gangakutir.com
Also…
Buzz
The sole restaurant at the Gateway Hotel EM Bypass is an all-day dining space with three buffets a day, so not the finest of fine dining ambience. But the a la carte Bangladeshi menu more than makes up for it with temptations like phooler bora (frittered seasonal flowers!) with ilish (hilsa) pulao, khasir gelasi (Dhakai style goat) with chhatur porota (stuffed paratha) and sweetmeats learnt from the famous modaks of Pitha Ghar across the border. Meal for two: Rs 1,700 Contact: 66660000, thegatewayhotels.com
Oudh 1590
Consistently popular, this small establishment in labyrinthine Deshapriya Park is, unfortunately, just as consistently inconsistent on both service and kitchen skills. But the period décor lives up to the hype of having a Lakkhichhara band member as your host and it makes for a stylish evening meal on bell-metal plates if you consistently avoid weekends and holidays. Vegetarians, avoid! Meal for two: Rs 1,400 Contact: 65656551/2, facebook.com/Oudh1590
Bohemian
Chef Joy’s innovative joint isn’t really new, but the plates are still refreshingly novel. It’s not precisely fine-dining, but certainly provides very fine eating of a genre-defying sort. Chilli pickle and cheese-baked crabs with kolmi greens; pabda rolls in cherry tomato and spinach broth; orange and aam aada sorbet; gondhoraj soufflé; chhana panchphoron mousse…If ambience is a non-negotiable, you can always order in. Meal for two: Rs 1,500 Contact: 64601002
Afraa
This is the evergreen address for ambience that most of Kolkata’s hosts and hostesses will want to drag you to, outside of the five-stars and especially if there are youthful guests in the party. Their thin-crust, generously topped pizzas are great value-for-money downstairs at the deli and cost substantially more here upstairs without gaining much substance, but the food is good if a little casually served and the view from the giant windows atop this iconic Charles Correa mall is lovely. The lounge menu is more stylish, actually, and you can prevail on them to serve it at the restaurant as well; the ‘homemade’ pastas, seafood and mixed grill are safe bets. Meal for two: Rs 2,200 Contact: 23581111, afraakolkata.com
Smoke Shack
Okay, so it’s actually a rooftop bar/lounge in a mid-market chain hotel. But again, ambience counts for much in this city because it tends to be a rare bird, and this one is rather a sleek, stylish duck. A nicely done-up terrace in this part of town is a rare beast, and here there is plenty of smart seating and prices are not bad for a star hotel. And it is new and buzzing, despite the laidback service. The solid menu is a page of plentiful grills and tandoori offerings to supplement the liquids while you moongaze. Meal for two: Rs 1,500 Contact: 40409999, parkplaza.com
Manidipa Mandal
CHENNAI
Her Name is Ming
Yes, yes, we know nobody goes to old President anymore (even though it’s a smart biz hotel in a splendid location and it’s called the Clarion Chennai now) but changes have been quietly underfoot and its new pan-Asian fine diner is loved as much for its nomenclature as the muted interiors and, we won’t have it any other way, the food. The menu’s descriptions aspire to needless seduction, ending with a ‘we hope she left you satisfied’, but she does. The dim sums are superlative, making it difficult for guests to save their appetite for the excellent rendang, hand-pulled dan dan noodles, signature curry laksa and pandan crème brûlée. Meal for two: Rs 1,800 Contact: 044-28472211, clarionchennai.com
The Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt
A jaded metropolitan crowd of the well-heeled does not cheer without merit and the Park Hyatt’s vertically arrayed George Wong designed seven-level restaurant with distinct, changeable cuisines and elegant spaces has been bagging fulsome praise for both gumption and finesse. There’s glass all around the 9,000 sq ft of friendly drama—the restaurant’s quite ideal for convivial groups, sit-where-you-please and order-what you like, across the menu—starting with the sunken bar to the (quietest) private dining section on the topmost floor. The food is superb and imaginative, ranges from teppan to north Indian (and burgers, if you please), and there are five open kitchens. The flying elephant, in case you wondered, is the mascot of the clothing company the family also owns. Meal for two: Rs 3,000 Contact: 71771234, chennai.park.hyatt.com
Southern Spice, Taj Coromandel
When you shut a culinary legend down for renovation and hammer away behind closed doors for ten months, you have to be creative and bold and new but you also dare not wobble your old and loyal clientele’s expectations too much. They just about managed to do that at Southern Spice early last year, so the kalamkari artwork is juxtaposed with Beltrami linen, and though the menu still focuses on the four southern states, and in fact has expanded to included rarer specialities from Virudhunagar to Kakinada, it also experiments with successes like the chocolate puranam mousse, inspired by the coconutty stuffing in polis and kozhakattais, and a kari varuval made with New Zealand lamb chops. If you are going for the first time, their vegetarian thali is still the classic winner. Meal for two: Rs 3,000 Contact: 66002827, tajhotels.com
Kryptos by Willi
They started off as not just Greek but Cypriot, but it was never meant to intimidate, this family-friendly, cheery establishment in a basement of Chennai’s high street, the Khader Nawaz Khan Road. Then they recently went and startled regular patrons by switching to a completely vegetarian and mixed cuisine menu. The long, iced counter now offers a salad buffet instead of the cold meze, and if you ever walk in after one of the city’s blistering days, it should be enough to have you swooning in relief. There are eastern, Mediterranean and Indian sharing platters, the sandwiches are delish, and we urge you to enjoy the soups, veggie burgers and pizza-subs around Kryptos’ famously communal Stone Table. Chef Willi, of whom you will read more, has done it again . Meal for two: Rs 1,000 Contact: 445038001, kryptosbywilli.com
China XO, Leela Palace
XO, in case you are wondering, as in extraordinary, they’ll have you know. Startlingly restrained and opting for jewel-blue tones over dragon-reds (a Japanese design company of renown, we hear), China XO sharpens the senses before satiating them; the al fresco seating brings diners even closer to the Bay of Bengal. Here be picky Cantonese and Sichuan specialities; Peking duck prepared in a wood-fired oven, wheeled to the table and served with panache and a side of steamed pancakes; and innovations like Chilean sea bass dumplings, and Thai jumbo prawns paired alongside sticky jasmine rice. The dim sum lunches on weekends resolve all confusion of choice. Meal for two: Rs 5,000 Contact: 33661234, theleela.com
Also…
Tuscana Pizzeria
Chef Willi laid the foundation for his sterling reputation with this authentic Italian trattoria of rustic and wholesome pizzas, pastas and risottos, its traditional ovens fired with mango wood. The legend goes that he experimented for 45 days to arrive at two of his pizzas, one distinguished from the other by two grams of salt. Meal for two: Rs 1,000 Contact: 45038008, tuscana.in
Pasta Bar Veneto
The chain of restaurants (four in Chennai) has this quirky radio ad in an over-the-top Italian voice that makes you smile and visit but when patrons return, it’s for the food. Pasta Bar Veneto is styled like a neighbourhood café but the food is earnest and fulsome, veering especially toward well-recognised favourites. Meal for two: Rs 500 Contact: 42126680, thepastabarveneto.com
Chop By Sandy’s
Live cooking in an experimental kitchen for a laidback diner with just 15 guests and the chef handy for appetising conversation—and if that hasn’t piqued your curiosity, the John Dory in a miso soy emulsion, brick roasted spring chicken and Sandy’s super-special BBQ sauce should do the trick. Meal for two: Rs 1,250 Contact: 42068416
Krishnavillasam
The home of classics, they call themselves, and they rely on the flavourfully spiced Tirunelveli and Thrissur sub-regions of TN and Kerala to define it, from the dosas to the curries. The best hedge though is the Krishnavillasam sappadu (meal) and Krishnavillasam vishesha (special) sappadu. Meal for two: Rs 600 Contact: 28215568, krishnavillasam.com
Italia, The Park Pod
It’s incredibly stylish (Vikram Phadke’s design, and he masterfully combines Philippe Starck’s ‘democratic design’ with Delhi-based Illum’s pop art), this boutique hotel that’s home to what’s arguably Chennai’s lowest-key Italian restaurant. The portions are moderate and delicious, and the Sunday brunches loved greatly. Meal for two:Rs 2,000 Contact: 42955555, theparkhotels.com
Lalitha Sridhar
BANGALORE
Troika
Air, fire and water, that’s the troika in the name of this multi-cuisine terrace resto-bar, a pleasant setting for Bangalore’s outdoorsy weather. There’s lounge-style high-stool seating around enjoyable flair bartending, the fine dining extends deep into the quieter inside, the French windows offer lovely views in the late evenings and night, and the dim sum station is particularly appetising. The menu’s as eclectic as metropolitan tastes have become—so there’s fenugreek gnocchi and lemon zatar chicken jostling shoulders with baked goat cheese on karvuveppilai (curry leaves) sago vadai and B&W chocolate cannelloni. The Sunday brunch with unlimited starters, mains, drinks and desserts is serious value for money in this unexpectedly low-profile restaurant. Meal for two: Rs 2,500 Contact: 080-41511155
Likethatonly
They refuse to be ordinary so what you get in place of ‘standard’ is the whimsical, irreverent and unconventional. They call it quirky-glam. Have fun unravelling it for yourself but let’s leave you with a hint of what’s on the menu. This sprawling 10,000 sq ft eatery plates up contemporary Asian and Japanese food with a twist so you’ll find nice salads (like the sake poached pear, caramelised and served with organic arugula, crumbled blue cheese and slivered almonds) and ‘small plates’ (green tacos, steamed cuttle fish and so on). The mains evoke mixed feelings, regulars simply go for the dim sums, and the shots, sangrias and signature cocktails cause them to return. They are expensive and it’s a long drive to Whitefield but it’s got to be tried like that only. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 65475610
Masala Dani, The Paul
Bangalore’s reputation as an unapologetically international and cosmopolitan foodie landscape is more or less sealed but diners at The Paul’s Mughlai restaurant come here because they get their yummy, old fashioned butter chicken, galouti kebabs (the vegetarian kebabs aren’t bad either) and dal makhni so right. By the way, the murgh makhni and paneer makhni are also outstanding. The piquant anari murgh tikka (chicken marinated in spiced yoghurt and served up with a zingy pomegranate sauce) goes especially well with the succulent lachha parathas. Naturally, there’s creamy kulfi in the end, or luscious gulab jamuns, and the paan is quite perfect. Meal for two: Rs 1,000 Contact: 40477777, thepaulbangalore.in
Jacques La Brasserie
Jacques came to Bangalore and decided he wanted to share his love for French food, especially his personal favourites, which he does rather authentically, even getting us to pretend we are in a Parisian café on a good day (the menu du jour appears invitingly by the sidewalk and the lush semi-outdoors works well in good weather). The crepes and macaroons are scrumptious, the slow-cooked lamb as tender as it should be, there are tasty and complimentary starters, the lower-salt bacon is imported from Germany, and the main courses appear moderately sized till you discover the sauces are mercilessly rich and filling. Sometimes, there’s live music, and they encourage guess to enjoy a game of chess. Meal for two: Rs 1,500 Contact: 42107222, facebook.com/JacquesLaBrasserie
Blue Terrain, Novotel
This poolside barbeque and bar at Novotel gets our vote for its dreamy ambience—the mood lighting plays up the pool and faux waterfall beautifully, and the bartending is exceptional (ingredients surprisingly include blue cheese, white chocolate and galangal, and the house special Blue Fire Shoot actually resorts to pyrotechnics). A couple of other things you might like to keep in mind when you plan your meal here—the starters are devilishly good, the mains are generous, vegetarians are assured of a decent number of choices, you must order at least one of the four signature desserts, and it would be wise to keep a stole or cardigan handy if you are here for dinner in the colder months. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 66700600, novotel.com
Also…
Bar Uno, JW Marriott
They promised the world’s best wines and prohibition cocktails, which is a high and not entirely substantiated claim, but the sparkling and still wines are meticulously selected by a sommelier and the tapas menu does justice to the upscale ambience and freestanding bar. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 approx; Contact: 67188544, marriott.com
Cafe Buzzinga
They promise chai, coffee and chocolate, they are unabashedly pet friendly, they dish out Maggi noodles on rainy days, somebody proposed to his sweetheart here just the other day, and they throw in belly dancing and in-house psych counsellors so by the time you check them out, your curiosity is positively ravenous. Meal for two: Rs 100 Contact: 9886382536, facebook.com/CafeBuzzinga
Arbor Brewing Company India
The food is pricey and indifferent but that’s not why the only Indian branch of the famous microbrewery in Ann Arbor makes our list. Lively and loud, its vast beer menu has us hooked. Reccos? The light and flavourful Bangalore Bliss, the tipsy Phat Abbot, and the 8% beers. Meal for two: Rs 1,500 Contact: 50144477, facebook.com/arborbrewindia
Bow Barracks
This cosy restaurant with red brick interiors is loved not for its wine-based cocktails or desserts, both being unremarkable, but the eclectic spread of well-cooked fish and Anglo Indian food—meat ball curry, pepper water, bacon wrapped chicken, beef jalfrezie, mango chutney dal and Aunty Pamela’s pork vindaloo. Meal for two: Rs 1,300 Contact: 42073555
24/7, Lalit Ashok
The name’s a dead giveaway but the multi-cuisine coffee shop format that foodies snub still has something to recommend itself strongly—easy access, and a warm welcome at any time of the day (or night). They do Italian, Chinese, Continental and Indian food here, and they do it rather nicely, probably why the jumbo Sunday brunch gets crowded. Meal for two: Rs 2,000 Contact: 30527777, thelalit.com
Lalitha Sridhar
Delhi
eating out
food guide
