Enchanting Alps

The green ribbon of the Tarn river curves through green-dotted rock channels in which the yellow-grey stone seems to rise up into cottages that grew there like the trees did. Lozére, one of the three départments that the Cévennes National Park stretches across, is the least populated area of France — a very good reason to go see it while this lasts. Because the beauty of this region straddling the Languedoc-Rousillon and the Rhône-Alps is too exquisite to miss. The granite peaks of Mont Lozére, Bougés, Aigoual and Lingas rise from it, and the karstic plateau of the Causse Méjean thrusts up too. In between there are still pools to swim in and fortified villages and castles to admire. Forest, steppe and rock habitats, in Mediterranean, Alpine and Continental climes are home to 2,400 species of fauna and almost as many plant species. No wonder Robert Louis Stevenson’s pen was readily attracted to this rocky place, where hiking is the modus of choice.

The information

Location

Montpellier is 3hrs by TGV from Paris, from where you should first head to Florac (where there’s a tourist information post) by road.

Where to stay

Local B&Bs and guesthouses are easier, but more atmospheric are the gites ruraux, small annexes of house or barn, outfitted with a small kitchen or pantry and rented out by local families. See eng.cevennes-parcnational.fr.