On the face of it, Mamer seems an unlikely destination. Most travelers who cross this
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Mamer is a 1½-hour drive from the state capital, along the Srinagar-Leh highway, NH1D. The town’s quite small, and stretches barely a few hundred metres along NH1D. As you come in from Srinagar in the west, you’ll spy a few dhabas by the riverbank. About 300m beyond that is a pedestrian bridge across the Sind that takes you to Daraduder Village and the thick forests beyond. Another 200m east from the bridge is a J&K Tourism guest house, tucked away at the end of a short path leading to the Sind River. Beyond that are a handful of shops, a few dhabas and a hotel. To the north west of Mamer, at the end of the Wangat Road that leads from the local tehsil HQ of Kangan (10 km), lie the temple ruins of Naranag (25 km). But while Kangan might be closer to the temples, it’s just another noisy and utterly forgettable highway town. Mamer’s unspoiled nature and the good accommodation options make this, unquestionably, the better destination.
A tourist trap Mamer isn’t. No ponywallahs, no impatient cabbies waiting for tourists to check off another entry on their guidebooks before rushing to the next destination, no parks with stern warnings about the perils of plucking flowers. What there is, though, is that all-too- rare aura of peace and quiet.
Take a stroll
Walk across the pedestrian bridge which takes you over the Sind towards Daraduder Village. Do take a moment midway to look at the mesmerising flow of water under your feet. Once on the other side, turn right to walk along with the flow of the river. A little further along is a small clearing overlooking the Sind. Retrace your steps towards the bridge and sit by the grassy bank, perfect for lazing around with a book. But don’t stop here. Walk through the village, crossing small houses, fields and apple trees on your way to the motorable road that passes around 600m away. Once on the road, turn left (east). You’ll come across a magnificent forest to your right, stretching for a distance, the line of trees broken only by an occasional stream and the odd boulder. There’s plenty of space here to relax and perhaps take a nap on the grass, away from the chaos of civilisation. Pretty much the only people you’ll see around are school kids playing and shepherds tending their flock.
It’s also possible to drive up here in case you’d rather not walk. Drive east along NH1D for 2 km from the JKTDC guest house till Harganyiwan Village and take a right turn towards the bridge across the Sind. Cross the river, turn right after 100m, and again after 200m; the road will lead you to Daraduder.
But it’s not all idyllic walks and sandwiches-on-the-grass at Mamer. If you’d rather do something a bit more energetic, Highland Rafting (Mobile: 09469039619) offers rafting on the Sind. They cast off from the bridge near the JKTDC property.
TIP Pack some fruits and snacks from the market, and fill up a thermos with tea, the forest is just perfect for a picnic
Go fishing in the Sind
Long-time anglers swear by the restorative effects of a day’s fishing. Put this theory to the test in Mamer. The Sind is packed with trout, first introduced to Kashmir by the British in the early 20th century. Since then, this tasty fish has become a favourite for recreational anglers in the Himalayas. You can pick up a license (₹1,000 for six fish) and check out the other rules for anglers at the Department of Fisheries, Gogjibagh, Srinagar (Tel: 0194-2312046; Website: jkfisheries.in).
The Temples of Naranag
Mamer is the perfect base for a trip to the ancient temple complex at Naranag. It’s close enough that you can leave after breakfast, spend a couple of hours exploring the ruins and relaxing by the Wangat River, and be back in Mamer in time for lunch. Head 10 km west on NH1D towards Kangan, and take a right turn onto the Wangat Road at Kangan Police Station. A narrow, winding road will take you past rural communities to the temple complex at Naranag (7,316 ft), all told about 25 km from Mamer.
Lying on the western bank of the Wangat River, Naranag is split into two levels. The largest temple on the first level seems mostly intact, although it’s been adorned with a tin roof, which unsightly as it is, does provide some protection from the elements. There are other temples scattered around the main one, all in various stages of decay. Step carefully around the broken stones, avoiding the slippery patches of fluorescent algae. Towards the left is a newly built flight of steps that leads down to the second complex, also in ruins. You’ll spot a few Shivalings here, some ruined, some intact, including one in a temple. There’s a small tank shaped out of stone in front of the main temple. At the far end of the complex is a tank that holds water from the sacred Naranag spring. Although it suffered from the depredations of Hayavadana, a notorious rebel baron during the reign of Jayasimha in the early 12th century, the spring still flows.
Naranag is believed to be the Sodaratirtha pilgrimage spot referred to in the ancient Kashmiri text Nilmat Purana. It holds much significance for the Kashmiri Pandit community who would stop here on the way back after immersing the ashes of their departed in Gangabal Lake, at the foot of Mount Harmukh. Other legends associate Naranag with King Jaluka, said to have succeeded Emperor Ashoka as the ruler of Kashmir. But at least two of the temples still standing at Naranag today are said to have been built by the 8th century ruler of Kashmir, Lalitaditya.
Today, the temples lie desolate, apart from the occasional tourist or backpacker on the way from Gangabal and the Great Lakes Trek. No pilgrims come by any longer and you’re more likely to spot the children of the nomadic Gujjars who inhabit the region.
WHERE TO STAY
There are just two places to stay in Mamer, both within 200m of each other along NH1D. Hotel Snow Land Resorts (Mobile: 09419006698, 09622833613; Tariff: ₹4,500-5,000, with two meals), appears from the outside to be just another small-but-neat highway motel with a faux-Alpine chalet appearance. But the cosy rooms, wood-panelled and carpeted, are absolutely delightful. Pick the ones that overlook the river.
The JKTDC Alpine Guest House (Mobile: 09469515047, 09697986156; Tariff: ₹1,500), also by the river, offers a lot more privacy as there are just two rooms here, usually unoccupied. Again, be sure to ask for the room with a view of the river. It’s basic, but comfy enough and airy with windows that offer a ringside view of the fast-flowing Sind, barely a few metres away. There’s a small balcony, perfect for relaxing in the evening. There’s also a lawn stretching alongside the river and the friendly staff will be more than glad to serve you tea here.
Naranag offers you a choice between Gulshan Lodge (Mobile: 09697761389; Tariff: ₹1,000) and Mohammed Aslam’s Guest House (Mobile: 09697560626, 09858339208: Tariff: ₹600-800), a little distance before the temple complex, though the options at Mamer are better.
WHERE TO EAT
The restaurant at Snow Land is the best option for a meal in Mamer and serves Kashmiri and North Indian food. The staff at the JKTDC guest house will also whip up a meal with advance notice, but don’t expect anything lavish — they’re more accustomed to day trippers and motorists taking a tea break on the way to Sonamarg.
There’s also a line of dhabas and tea stalls along the highway, between Snow Land in the east and JKTDC in the west. They serve up simple highway fare of pakoras, paranthas with chutney, and tea. You can also pick up fruit — plums, cherries and apples — from the stalls in the small market. There are a couple more dhabas 300m down the highway from the bridge, with tables arranged right by the river. The town of Kangan, 10 km away towards the west, might be a good idea for a meal if you’re visiting the Naranag temples.
FAST FACTS
When to go April to September. Avoid during the Amarnath Yatra (usually late June to mid August)
Tourist Offices
J&K Tourism, Tourist Reception Centre, Near Dal Gate, Srinagar, Tel: 0194-2452691, 2479548
Director Tourism (Kashmir), TRC, Srinagar, Tel: 2472449, Website: jktourism.org
JKTDC, TRC, Srinagar, Tel: 2472644, 2457930, Website: jktdc.co.in, STD code 0194
GETTING THERE
Location By the Sind River, 10 km after Kangan on the Srinagar-Leh highway in Ganderbal District. The Naranag temples lie 15 km north of Kangan
Distance 47 km NE of Srinagar JOURNEY TIME By Road 1½ hrs
Route from Srinagar NH1D (Srinagar-Leh Highway) to Mamer via Nagbal, Ganderbal, Manigam, Prang and Kangan
Air Nearest airport: Sheikh-ul-Alam Airport, Srinagar (58 km/2 hrs), connected to Delhi, Mumbai, Leh and Jammu by Air India, SpiceJet, Indigo and Go Air. Pre-paid taxis charge ₹2,000 for a drop to Mamer
Rail Nearest railhead: Jammu (345 km/ 10 hrs). Taxi costs ₹6,000 to Mamer
Road Mamer is along NH1D that connects Srinagar to Leh. Follow NH1D past Nagbal, Ganderbal, Wayul, Manigam, Prang (bear right) and Kangan to Mamer. Taxi from TRC, Srinagar (50 km/1½ hours) charges ₹1,500. Shared Sumos charge ₹100. Local buses charge about ₹70
Jammu Kashmir & Ladakh Guide
Kashmir
India
