The Route: Spituk-Zingchan-Rumbak-Stok La-Campsite-Stok The Spituk-Stok trek in the near vicinity of Leh
I saw plenty of birds and wildlife on the short walk and hadn’t realised until then quite how wonderful the 4,400 sq km Hemis National Park was — made easy to explore by the Snow Leopard Conservancy’s Himalayan Homestays experience. For a small fee you can stay in clean rooms with a Ladakhi family on this route and explore the park, accompanied by trained nature guides who will draw your attention to plants and flowers, birds and animals. Who knows, you may even get lucky with a sighting of the elusive shiang, or snow leopard.
DAY ONE
SPITUK-ZINGCHAN
TIME 4-6 HOURS
LEVEL MODERATE-EASY
The trek traditionally starts at the bridge over the Indus about a kilometre west of Spituk Village. However, a jeepable road runs nearly all the way to Zingchan and if you get your taxi to drop you 7 km down the road to the point opposite Phey Village, you can skip the 2-hr-long hot walk over un- changing scree-filled landscape (parti- cularly after Spituk Pharka Village). From this point, it is a pleasant walk along the descending road in a south- westerly direction along the Indus, on your right, until you arrive at a fork where a swift flowing stream joins the Indus from the left. Walk into the valley due south, across the bridge, which can be a pleasant resting point. A walk of a couple more kilometres will bring you to a road sign: ‘Jhingchan to Rumbak Road 1 km’. Look out for the log bridge here, which often gets washed away. If there is no bridge you will have to ford the thigh-deep stream. After crossing the stream, find the path heading south-east which climbs suddenly onto the hillside to Zingchan Village.
There are two campsites here — one just before you climb up and one past the village down by the stream called the Daisy Campsite. I preferred to walk a little further for an hour, crossing the stream once more on a bridge, past a Forest Checkpoint with a sign welcoming you to Hemis National Park. Continue up the well-defined path, crossing the nallah at least four times before you arrive at Sumdzom, marked by a stone chorten with prayer flags and a grove of willows and wild roses. There are good camping options here.
Entry fee to Hemis National Park ₹50 per person per day
DAY TWO
ZINGCHAN-RUMBAK
TIME 4-5 HOURS
LEVEL MODERATE
From Sumdzom, walk upstream on the left side (true right bank) crossing the stream twice over sturdy wooden bridges. Then climb steadily uphill as the path moves due south-east until it comes out of the narrow gorge into a broad valley which serves as a junction. Straight in front is the Kanda La Nallah, along which there is a path leading to high pastures. On your left or north is the path that leads up to Rumbak past a tea-stall. And up ahead, crossing the nallah and to the right is the path leading to Nyurutse and the Kanda La Base Camp.
Rest a while at the tea-stall. You may want to photograph the plentiful wild flowers, especially straight ahead along the Kanda La Nallah.
Walk up past the tea stall heading east into the broad valley. The first fields and houses of Rumbak Village appear fairly soon. If you have booked a homestay (Snow Leopard Trails, Leh Tel: 01982- 252074; Website: himalayan-homestays. com) at Rumbak, head over to your lodge and spend the next couple of days exploring the Hemis National Park. If you are continuing on the trek, I would suggest camping ahead, closer to the Stok Pass. Walk up the valley climbing a gentle gradient for about 1½ hrs 1and then climb steeply up onto the plateau on your left. You will find a flat campsite where you can spend the night. I had a surprise visit by a couple of friendly shepherds with their big mastiffs, who appreciated the dinner I shared with them.
DAY THREE
RUMBAK-STOK LA-CAMPSITE
TIME 4-5 HOURS
LEVEL TOUGH
Today is a difficult day on the trek, as you will ascend the 16,076-ft Stok Pass, also known as the Namlung La. If you are fit and have camped at the plateau just under the pass as I did, you should have no problem climbing up to the pass. I climbed steadily and made it in less than 1½ hrs. From the campsite walk up east for 10 mins and on your right you will find a path zigzagging up the mountain. At first it looks quite steep. Don’t worry. It soon crosses over the cleft to the left and heads up east at a less troubling gradient all the way to the pass.
The Stok La is marked by prayer flags and has excellent views to the north and south. But it is quite windy. When I was there in early October it was freezing cold and all plans to hang out and brew a cup of tea were quickly abandoned. The pass is a point along the climb up Stok Kangri (see page 330). We went sharply down the track leading north- east down the mountain. The track is in poor repair and crumbling in parts, so be careful as you descend into an arid valley. Soon you will follow a swiftly flowing stream on its left bank as the path broadens. There are stunning rock formations on your left and right.
There are quite a few campsites just 2- 2½ hrs from the pass once the valley turns northwards and broadens. Take your pick and settle in for the evening.
DAY FOUR
CAMPSITE-STOK
TIME 4 HOURS
LEVEL EASY
Today is an easy day going downhill all the way. Follow the stream on its left bank as it heads north. The path is broad and easy. You will find willows and wild roses growing on islands in the middle of the stream which grows quite wide as you approach Stok. Visit the Stok Palace, residence of the former king of Ladakh. The museum with ancient weapons and old thangkas is open to the public.
Time 4-5 days
Level Moderate
Ideal Season Mid-Jun to late Sep
Location South-west of Leh
GETTING THERE AND OUT
From Leh to Spituk, it’s 8 km/ 20 mins by car (₹180) or half an hour by bus (₹10). Buses ply between 7.30 am and 9 pm. You can also ask the taxi to drop you beyond Spituk Pharka Village at the point opposite Phey Village (12 km/ 40 mins/ ₹280), which is on the other side of the Indus. Or catch the 8 am bus (runs only on Mondays and Saturdays) to Phey Village. On the return, get picked up at Stok (17 km/ ½ hr/ taxi ₹750) for Leh via a trip to Stok Palace. Or if in time, catch a bus to Leh (₹10). Only two buses run from Stok to Leh, at 9.30 am and 6.30 pm
Stok Village
Stok Palace
Spituk