The rooster of Barcelos is a legendary figure in Portugal. There are many versions of the medieval tale, but in all of them a dead rooster crows to prove a man’s innocence. What could be nicer? One of the commonest emblems of Portugal, the rooster, predictably, appears all over Goa, especially adorning the tops of little homes. It’s traditional for them to be coloured vividly, unlike my humble, terracotta version which I picked up at the sprawling and delightful Mapusa Market in North Goa. I had to settle for a small cock, weighed down as my other hand was with a rich haul of local spices and condiments. It’s a candle stand, I guess. I can’t remember the last time I used one, but I hope it’ll come in handy when I have to prove my innocence.