Nelliyampathy: Hills With a View

The drive to Nelliyampathy is steep, with 23 dizzying, hairpin bends, tantalising flashes of the Pothundy reservoir and occasional sightings of langurs, bisons, elephants and deer who emerge from the dense, verdant forest. At a height of 4,600ft, Nelliyampathy is rather inadequately described as a tiny hill station. This little gem of the Sahyadri Range is rich in coffee, tea and orange plantations, and the sparse swamps of nelli (gooseberry) trees which have given the town its name. It offers many things for the intrepid traveller, with the exception of continuous cell reception, ATMs and stores selling mineral water bottles and snacks.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The Nelliyampathy Range consists of lofty peaks and deep valleys, the highest of which is Nellikota, or Padagiri, which soars 5,200ft above sea level. Other peaks include Vellachimudi, Valiyavana, Mayanmudi and Vela Vanchan. The road from the Pothundy Dam offers a picturesque drive to the hill station and a little way beyond towards Seetharkundu. Paths leading off the road head to the forests, filled with valuable teak of extraordinary height and girth.

Views to Die For

Nelliyampathy offers you ease and relaxation, closeness with the hills, wildlife and beautiful panoramic views from vantage points like Kesavan Para (11km from Nelliyampathy) and Seetharkundu. The latter, situated 8km from Nelliyampathy, is believed to be the place mentioned in the Ramayana, where Sita rested on her return journey from Sri Lanka. A tall, gnarled and ancient tree marks the spot today, close to a small Devi Temple at the top of Kollengode Hill. In between lie orange plantations where one can pick up tea, coffee, and bottles of squash and guava preserve.

Trekking

Seetharkundu, Palakapandy, Kesavan Para and Kara Para are all connected by small paths through the forests and hills. It is advisable to wear appropriate clothing and footwear as the scrub can be quite thorny, to come equipped with plenty of drinking water and to hire a local, hotel-recommended guide.

Malabar hornbill, one of Nelliyampathy’s attractions

Bird-watching

The Nelliyampathy range is a known habitat of the Malabar hornbill, the Indian woodpecker, red jungle fowls, all kinds of parrots and owls, as well as the chubby Malabar squirrel, amongst other interesting species. A good pair of binoculars and abundant reserves of patience will reward the curious traveller with some amazing sightings.

Mampara Peak

Nelliyampathy has a number of peaks that offer awesome views. Raja’s Cliff at Mampara is perhaps the most breathtaking. A bald knoll 5249ft above sea level, Mampara can be accessed via a bone-jarringly steep jungle path. At some points during the ride to the top, the jeep almost seems to be vertical.

Yet, the hair-raising experience is rendered worthwhile because of the view, which seems to define the word ‘panoramic’, with the Pothundy Reservoir and rivers gleaming like sashes of silver far below. On a clear day, this spot affords a view of the entire Palakkad Range. The Chaliyar, Meenkara, Mulathara, Malampuzha and Waliyar Dams sparkle below, and one can spot the pastoral hamlet of Kollengode. Near Mampara, the Victoria Church, an abandoned relic of the Raj, sits in solitude atop a rock. The summit lies directly in line with the Palghat Gap, thanks to which the breeze here seems like a full-blown gale. One can see Pollachi, Coimbatore and Mettupalayam on the Tamil Nadu side, and parts of Parambikulam and Palakkad on the Kerala side of the Gap.

Pothundy Reservoir

About 20km from Nelliyampathy, just before Nenmara Village lies the Pothundy Reservoir, surrounded by landscaped gardens that make an ideal picnic spot. Two flights of steps off the road lead the traveller to a whole other world, on the banks of the cool and calm waters of the reservoir, surrounded by hills. The Pothundy Reservoir is fed by the Manchady, Kalchandy and Challa, which are tributaries of the Bharatapuzha river. The reservoir feeds the Gayathri river.

Timings 10.00am–5.00pm Tel 04923-244232

Kalari Kovilakom

Sanjiv Valsan

King for a While

The Kollengode Kovilakam, or Palace, is a sprawling stately building. Built in the 19th century by a young princess, Dhatri, looking to escape her uncle’s tyranny, the Kovilakam gives a sense of being a spacious, safe harbour.

The palace is known for its elegant architecture – the structure features fine, fretted woodwork, huge pillars polished to a muted gleam, stained glass panes, bathing kulams (ponds), and a small ambalam (temple) with the family deity Bhagavathi. Its elegance and splendor suggest that the palace might have hosted grand ganamelas (music concerts), processions of elephants and kings, feasts and celebrations, and served as a haven for all kinds of artists.

In the 20th century, however, it fell into a state of dilapidation and neglect, from which it was rescued by the CGH Earth Group of Hotels. The grand old palace has now been restored and converted into a heritage property. Today, the Kollengode Kovilakam, also known as Kalari Kovilakam, is a different kind of refuge. With 18 beautiful, old-world rooms, the palace is now a hotel and an Ayurvedic retreat centre. It offers Ayurvedic treatments and yoga-based healing.

Guests are offered the opportunity to detox from an unhealthy lifestyle: they are asked to give up meat, sodas, intoxicants like alcohol and cigarettes, and even conversation during meals, for the duration of their stay. The Spartan lifestyle of this resort, surrounded by green-gold fields of paddy and nestled in the midst of the moody Western Ghats, offers an opportunity for guests to cleanse, rest and find peace.

W kalarikovilakom.com

WHERE TO STAY

Greenland Resort (Tel: 04923246245/ 66, Cell: 09048607202, 09846146202; Tariff: ₹1,700–4,700, tents ₹1,500 per person) is set in an estate surrounded by forests. It offers 20 rooms, one tent and a restaurant. Non-guests may eat here on advance notice. ITL Resorts (Tel: 246464, 246357; Tariff: ₹1,700–4,500) in Kaikatty has six rooms and two dorms, and a restaurant. Outdoor games and trekking in the forested hills are possible.

Ciscilia Heritage (Tel: 202383, 205583, Cell: 09495566454, 09447033560; Tariff: ₹1,500) is an eco-friendly homestay in Ranimedu Estate. It has eight rooms. Hill Valley Farm House (Tel: 246307, Cell: 09961549680, 09447400333; Tariff: ₹1,000–4,000) is another homestay with 10 rooms and a dorm in Ravivarma Estate. Both serve home-cooked meals.

WHERE TO EAT

While there are no established eateries at Nelliyampathy, most hotels have excellent restaurants. The Greenland Resort and ITL Resorts have good restaurants.

AROUND NELLIYAMPATHY

Kollengode (39km)

The picturesque, pastoral hamlet of Kollengode seems like a slice of tradition preserved through the ages for posterity. The birthplace of the poet P. Kunhiraman Nair, it houses his poorly preserved memorial (Open: 10.00am–5.00pm) opposite Raja’s High School. The Vishnu Temple (Open: 5.00–10.30am, 5.00–8.00pm) in Kaachamkurissi is a popular shrine with the locals. The whole village comes alive when the temple celebrates the Arat Festival in May with much fervour. Kollengode is home to high-end tourism, particularly centered around the Kollengode Palace, which now serves as a very swanky and popular Ayurvedic resort  

GETTING THERE