Kodungallur: Gateway to India

Although there are many historical debates surrounding it, however some like to believe that a small whiff of Kodungallur’s history was found in the nose of Egyptian Pharoah Ramses II (13th century BCE). The mummified remains of the Pharoah, made popular by Yul Brynner’s portrayal in The Ten Commandments (1956), when excavated by archaeologists, revealed pepper in his nostrils. Fragmented evidence of contact between Egypt and Muziris, the ancient name of Kodungallur, suggest that the pepper came from the Malabar Coast.

Sculptures and murals at the Rama Temple

Prashant Panjiar

Kodungallur’s spice trade flourished in the first millennium CE. It is believed that King Solomon’s fleet visited Kerala for trade and that the place was known to the early Jews as long ago as 1,000 BCE. According to Jack Turner in Spice: The History of an Obsession (2004), about 120 vessels from the Red Sea ports carried pepper back from the Malabar Coast every year. The Tamil epic Silappatikaram, dated roughly 7th century CE, speaks of “the beautiful vessels, the masterpieces of the Westerners, (stirring) white foam on the Periyar river, arriving with gold and departing with pepper.” Pliny is known to have described the bustling port as well.

Boat on a backwater

V. Muthuraman

However, the prosperous trade at Kodungallur suffered a great setback in the 14th century, when the Periyar flooded over, choking the entrance to the harbour. This changed the face of commerce and trade in Kerala, carving out a natural harbour at Kochi, which grew to greater prominence thereafter, though Kodungallur lost its central position.

Today, centuries after the historic, and geological upheavals, Kodungallur is a picturesque little town. History and the humdrum everyday coexist peacefully; life here functions as it would in a small town in Kerala, without the self-awareness and the consciously manufactured, sometimes commercial, nostalgia that plagues many other historical cities. While some of the inhabitants are aware of the history, myths and legends of their hometown most reject the thought that their town was the gateway to three major religions in India. One consequence of the lack of bustling tourism is that Kodungallur does not offer uninterrupted power supply and wifi-enabled cafes for the interested tourist. But offers a veritable feast for the keen tourist and history buff. It was here that St. Thomas the Apostle landed in India in 52 CE. He went on to convert the Namboodiris and build the first of his seven-and-a-half churches, starting with the Palayur Church, 46km from Kodungallur. 

Almost two decades after St. Thomas’ arrival, the Jews, escaping persecution in Jerusalem, arrived here. Settling initially in Kodungallur, Palayur, Mala and Pullut, the Jewish community did not build identifiable colonies for themselves. Today there are only a few spots linked with the community that are still preserved, including Jew’s Hill at Chavakkad and Jew’s Tank at Madayi.

The first historical source referring to the community is a copper plate ins-cription connected with king Bhaskara Ravi Varma, dated to 1000 CE. Once the Portuguese arrived, in the 16th century, the Jews were forced to flee from Kodungallur to Kochi. It was here, in Mattancherry, that the Pardesi Synagogue was built. According to the 1991 census of India, there were only 120 Jews left in Kerala – only one per cent of the number said to have landed in Kodungallur in the early years of the Common Era. Most of the Keralite Jews have left for Israel, while those who remain are called the Cochin Jews.

Kodungallur is also home to India’s first mosque, the Cherman Juma Masjid, built in 629 CE, during the lifetime of the Prophet. This mosque was most likely built by the legendary king Cheraman Perumal, once he converted to Islam.

For all intents, however, Kodungallur remains a small town with cinemas, corner shops and bus stops, largely unaware of the layers of history just under the surface. Fortunately, this ensures that there are no replicas of questionable origins, manufactured nostalgia, or guides and vendors hounding to sell their dramatic versions of history. However, there is much to see here. For instance, the nuns at the Marthoma Pontifical Shrine in Azhikode are more than willing to allow visitors a viewing of the relic of St. Thomas’ right hand, preserved within the church in a sealed room. Historical absolutes flirt with mythology and the mundane alike, blending together to form stories carried through generations. Tales about St. Thomas, Cheraman Perumal and the Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple are part of the collective consciousness of the people here.

Occasionally, new layers are added to the old. One example of this is the stone models of chickens at the gate of the Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple which are a recent addition. They symbolise the offerings made at the time of the Bharani Festival, when chickens are killed in the temple for a feast. This is an example of ‘living history’.

ORIENTATION

Kodungallur lies along NH17, which divides the city into two equal halves approximately, running parallel to the Pullut Puzha. The Kodungallur-Shoranur SH22 begins at the Bhagavathy Temple, which is located on NH17 at the heart of the town. The railway station at Irinjalakuda is further north along SH22.

The St. Thomas Church lies to the north of this intersection while the Cheraman Masjid lies to the south, both along the national highway. To the west at Azhikode is St. Thomas’ Shrine, which preserves the relic of St. Thomas the Apostle. It is located on the banks of the Periyar at Azhikode, next to the Marthoma Mental Health Clinic. The best accommodation options can be found at the Thalikulam and Nattika beaches, to the north of the city. The most comfortable way of travelling around Kodungallur is by taxi, though buses are available and prove to be more economical.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Absolute must-sees at Kodungallur include the Azhikode Church, the Cheraman Juma Masjid and the Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple. The Nalambalam Circuit includes a temple each to Rama, Lakshmana, Bharata and Shatrughan, the four brothers from the Ramayana.

Marthoma Pontifical Shrine, Azhikode

Marthoma Pontifical Shrine at Azhikode

V. Muthuraman

Modeled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the Marthoma Pontifical Shrine at Azhikode commemorates St. Thomas’ arrival on the Indian Subcontinent in 52 CE. The church was built with elements of classical architecture, like colonnades, and houses paintings depicting scenes of St. Thomas’s arrival. It also preserves a relic, brought here in 1952, the bone of St. Thomas’ right arm, which has been carefully preserved. Notably, the shrine here was built in just 90 days. It is quiet, off the beaten track.

Timings 9.00am–6.00pm; Prayer Timings Every hour

Cheraman Juma Masjid, Methala

The oldest mosque in India was built in 629 CE, just seven years after the Prophet’s migration to Medina. In addition to being the oldest mosque in the country, it also has the distinction of being the second oldest mosque in the world where Friday prayers are conducted. It was constructed in a distinctively indigenous architectural style. According to the legend, King Cheraman Perumal, after whom the mosque is named, converted to Islam. He took on the name ‘Tajuddin’, marrying the sister of the Jeddah king. Before he died, he handed over letters addressed to the Rajas of Kerala to his brother-in-law, exhorting them to propagate Islam in the region. As per his wishes, the Jeddah king came to Kerala and met the Raja of Kodungallur, who helped him build the Juma Masjid.

Location Padakulam, on NH17 Timings 5.15am–7.30pm Tel 04802803170 cheramanmosque.com

TIP People of all faiths may visit the mosque, dressed appropriately. Women may enter a separate enclosure near the tomb

Koratty Muthy Church

A part of Kodungallur’s charm lies in the overlap of culture, religion and aesthetics. Just as the Cheraman Juma Masjid is built like an ancient temple, St. Mary’s Forane Church at Koratty, 23km to the east of Kodungallur, is built in the traditional Keralite Hindu architectural style. Built in 1382, this shrine is second only to Velankanni as a pilgrimage centre. Koratty Muthy, the Holy Mother, is said to shower her blessings on whosoever visits her, regardless of caste and creed. Within the church, the 12 apostles are carved in wood, while the Holy Trinity crowns the main statue of Mother Mary. The wall are rich with paintings of scenes from Mary’s life. Outside the church is the Rosary Village, which has 15 mini chapels. There’s also an ancient granite stone cross and, interestingly, a statue of Jesus Christ in padmasana, a traditional yoga posture, pointing both the multi-cultural heritage of the Church as well as this region being a melting pot of diversity.

Location 23km east of Kodungallur along the Annamanad-Mala Pallipuram Road Timings 8.00am–8.00pm Mass Timings Weekdays 5.30am, 7.00am and 5.00pm, Saturdays 5.30am, 7.00am, 10.30am and 4.45pm, Sundays 5.30am, 7.00am, 9.00am, 10.30am and 4.45pm Main Feast First Sunday after 10 October Tel 0480-2732780 W korattymuthy.com

Devotees at the Rama Temple

Prashant Panjiar

Nalambalam Circuit

The Nalambalam Yatra takes place during the month of Karkidakam (mid-July to mid-August), a time of the year associated with the Ramayana. Tradition dating back to the 16th century dictates that the devotees keep fasts during this period and recite verses from the Ramayana. The Nalambalam Yatra is a pilgrimage undertaken during this period to honour the four sons of Dasharatha from the Ramayana: Rama, Lakshmana, Bharata and Shatrughana. The focus during this pilgrimage is on family and kinship ties. There are four sets of four temples which may be visited at this time, one of which lies near Kodungallur. These four temples are associated closely with those of Lord Krishna and the Guruvayurappan Temple. It is believed that the idols of the four brothers were worshipped by the child god Krishna when he lived in Dwarka. They were carried by the sea to Kerala in the same flood that the idol had to be rescued from, to four temples near Kodungallur. The pilgrimage starts at the Rama Temple at Thriprayar, where the Nirmalyam Pooja is held at 3.00am. The devotees then proceed to the Bharata Temple at Irinjalakkula for the Usha Pooja, the Lakshmana Temple at Muzhikulam for the Utcha Pooja, and the Payammal Shatrughana Temple at Aripalam (Tel: 04872331124) for the Athazha Pooja and the Deeparadhana. Some also visit the Chandanavakku Hanuman Temple at Allapuzha, just south of Kochi. The four temples can be accessed easily from Kodungallur. The Rama Temple in Thripayar lies 27km north of Kodungallur on NH17, via Palapetty. Hereafter, drive southwards along the NH17, turning east at Moonupeedika onto SH61. This leads first to the Bharata Temple at Irinjalakkula and then to the Lakshmana Temple in Muzhikulam near Aripalam. From here, continue to drive east on SH61 and turn southwards onto NH47 to reach Angamaly. From here, drive back to Pongam on NH47, turning west towards Kodungallur.

The scenically located Rama Temple, Thriprayar

Prashant Panjiar

Rama Temple, Thriprayar

The idol of Rama at this temple is sculpted in the Chaturbhuja Vishnu form, with four arms, bearing a conch, a disc, a bow and a garland, respectively. The iconography of the idol blends together elements from both Shiva and Brahma myths. The deity here is thus also referred to as a manifestation of the trimurthi. Other than the Nalambalam Yatra, the temple also attracts devotees for the pooram in Meenam (March– April), for Onam in Chingam (August–September) where the temple hosts a snake boat race, and for the Ekadasi celebrations in Vrischikam (November–December).

Timings 4.30am–12.00pm & 4.30– 8.00pm

Koodalmanikyam Bharata Temple, Irinjalakkuda

This temple is known for Anguliangamkoothu, a performative art form consisting entirely of hand gestures. It is performed during the dance festival in July and August, along with other traditional dance dramas such as Ramayanamkoothu and Koodiyattam. On the way to Irinjalakkuda from Kodungallur lies the village of Nadavaramba, known for traditional bell-metal oil lamps.

Timings 3.00–11.30am, 5.00– 8.15pm W koodalmanikyam.com

TIP Men must wear mundus and be bare chested

Thalikulam and Nattika Beaches

The Thalikkulam and Nattika Beaches draw a large crowd and are usually packed with people in the evenings. Vendors offer generic knick-knacks like bangles and toys, and roadside snacks. The beaches are nice to bathe in by the day, but not ideal for revealing swimwear.

WHERE TO STAY

Kodungalolur has some excellent Ayurveda retreats. Sitaram Beach Retreat (Tel: 0487-2397239) is an excellent Ayurveda and yoga retreat right on the beach. Experience the traditional Kerala Ayurveda, Panchakarma, Hatha yoga, Laughter yoga and other wellness programmes while you are here. Another place to relax with Ayurveda treatments is the Kaddapuram Beach Resort (Tel: 2394988; Tariff: On request). It has very tempting sea-facing, traditional Kerala-style cottages on the picturesque Nattika Beach. Its Lake View restaurant offers awesome Kerala fare. Clean budget hotels include Hotel Indraprasthem (Tel: 2802678, Cell: 09846809031; Tariff: ₹900–3,000), south-east of the kavu; and Mangala Hotel (Tel: 04802802010, Cell: 09745035588; Tariff: ₹600–1,800), east of the kavu.

Nearby are Chand V Regency (Tel: 0480-2642677, Cell: 09447308957; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,500) located in Kaipamangalam, with 21 rooms, a restaurant and beer and wine parlour. Hotel Dream Land (Tel: 2391288, Cell: 09388392656; Tariff: ₹900–1,500), near Thriprayar, with 22 rooms is a good budget option.

WHERE TO EAT

All the hotels here have restaurants which offer traditional Kerala cuisine. Hotel Dream Land’s Pavithram Restaurant has a bar and serves Chinese and north Indian food in addition to the traditional cuisine. This restaurant opens at 7.30am, making it ideal for an early breakfast before heading out sightseeing. Arathi’s Southern Delight near the South Nada is the most recommended restaurant in town, with an open, hygienic kitchen, excellent food and extremely reasonable prices. Relax Muziriz near town hall serves great seafood. Other than these, there are many tea shops and bakeries, and generic eateries all over the town.

Inputs by Latha Anantharaman

Rites for Kannagi

The Kondungallur Bhagavathy Temple, built by Chera king Chenguttuvan, is known for its worship of Kannagi, the wronged and vengeful heroine of Silappatikaram. It is believed that Kannagi ran all the way to Kodungallur from Madurai after the king falsely accused her husband of theft. At this temple, Kannagi takes on the powerful form of Bhadrakali, who killed the demon Darika.

Worship of Kannagi

Saibal Das

In the month of Meenam (March– April), the Bharani Festival is celebrated here to mark her victory over the demon. What makes this festival unique is the tradition of Therippattu, the singing of lewd songs to the deity during the seven days of the celebrations. This custom celebrates five different paths to sexual fulfillment: maithunam (intercourse), sparsanam (touch), darshanam (sight), shravanam (hearing) and grahanam (understanding). Kannagi is said to be satiated by the singing of lewd songs.

The tradition is unusual in many ways and has attracted a lot of criticism from many groups. Indeed, some people do use the tradition to behave inappropriately with women. It is thus advisable to be careful while participating in the ritual.

Another festival celebrated here is Thalapoli on Meena Dharani in the month of Makaram (January–February).

Timings 4:00am–12:00pm & 4:00– 8:00pm Tel 0480-2803061