Pala: Sacred Heart of Kottayam

Pala is sometimes refered to as a ‘city of churches’, even though it can hardly be called a city at all. The slumberous Meenachil river runs by the unassuming little town that Pala really is, where every street has a church. That every road also has a beer parlour is as much a matter of pride for the locals.

Pala seems to be synonymous with piety. While one legend connects it with Palazhi, the mythological Ocean of Milk, another links its name with the first Christian settlers from Paloor. The Syrian Christian community, the majority of the population in this little town, trace their origins to the revered St Thomas. Pala was also once the headquarters of the Meenachil region. The Meenachil Karthas, local chieftains, were patrons of many churches in the region. Meenachil was also close to Poonjar, the kingdom founded by a scion of the Pandya dynasty of Tamil Nadu.

St. Mary’s Forane Church

Courtesy Kerala Tourism

Antiquated homes, wise with age and worn with time, still stand guard over a relatively untouched Pala. Wafting out of their kitchens are the robust and wholesome aro-mas of unique culinary specialties. These include a dish particular to Pala, the mutton idicha masala, a superbly spiced tender lamb preparation that is served with humble boiled tapioca and takes, surprisingly, less than half an hour to rustle up. Interestingly, this pounded masala dish is not usually found on any hotel menus. As Pala does not advertise itself, or even consider itself, a tourist destination, it remains, like the mutton preparation, elusive.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The town of Pala, also known as Palai, is one of the main cultural centres for Christians in Kerala. And so, travellers will be able to visit plenty of churches here.

St.Thomas Cathedral of Pazhayapalli

This elegant edifice in cream and brown was established in 1002 CE. It was built with the patronage of Hindu feudal chiefs. Close by is the new cathedral. Although it was originally modelled on a temple, after successive renovations, it now has a distinctively Portuguese essence. The church was relocated when the cathedral was built, in 1977. But the soaring steeple of the new cathedral does not in any way overshadow the undisputed charm of the older structure.

Timings 8.00am–5.30pm

Steps leading to St. Thomas Cathedral

Saint Alphonsa of Bharananganam

The massive St Mary’s Forane Church of Bharananganam lies 9km from Pala in Anakallu. Established in 1004 CE, the church houses the marble tomb of the revered Saint Alphonsa, lovingly called Annakutty. The Sister Alphonsa Museum has snapshots of young Annakutty’s home at Kudamalloor, her school as well as the room at the Clarist Convent opposite the church where she lay ill. She was beatified in 1986 by Pope John Paul II, when the head of the Roman Catholic Church visited Kottayam. St. Alphonsa was canonised by Pope Benedict XVI in October 2008, to great rejoicing across the state.

St. Mary’s Forane Church, Kuravilangad

A majestic cross catches one’s attention before the church reveals itself. Carved from a single block of stone, this 48-ft-high cross was installed here in 1597. The history of the church, however, is almost as old as Christianity itself. The origin of the church is attributed to the three Christian families who moved to Kuravilangad in the 2nd century CE. One story recalls a miracle – when an old lady beckoned children tending their flock to build a church here, a spring sprouted from the earth. It is believed that the church was constructed in 345 CE. The spring referred to in the story still flows and pilgrims flock to its holy waters. The main altar of the church is a rare blend of Roman and Portuguese sculptures. The statues of Virgin Mary and St Sebastian, housed in this church, were carved from granite. It also houses the holy relics of the saint.

Location 10km north of Ettumanur Timings 5.30am–8.00pm

Poongar Palace Complex

The sounds of the Meenachil, flowing next to the Poonjar Palace, are almost like a gentle serenade for this ancient structure, which has the aura of a lonely octogenarian peacefully reclining and recalling the quiet power and pelf of a bygone era. Unlike most principalities in the world, the Poonjar Kingdom has a rare history untarnished by blood and gore, despite which it remained a free state. The founders of the kingdom, facing frequent insurgencies in Madurai, migrated to Poonjar, purchasing the land from the Thekkumkur Raja to form the kingdom around 1155 CE. Poonjar remained independent even though neighbouring principalities succumbed to the onslaughts of Marthanda Varma, Haider Ali and Tipu Sultan, somehow avoiding war entirely. The Palace Complex reflects some of this peaceful power.

The palace itself comprises several living quarters, and the traditional nalukettu (square inner courtyard) and ettukettu (two inner courtyards). Its treasures include antiques such as wooden utensils, palm leaf manuscripts, a palanquin, wooden and stone measures as well as jewellery boxes. The kovilakam has a mini-museum that displays a thoni (small boat used for Ayurvedic massages) and a collection of weapons, amongst other artefacts.

Location On a road heading to the right, just before Poonjar Junction on the Kanjirappally Road Tel 0482-2274221

TIP Entry only with prior permission from the family

Vanilla County, a beautiful homestay

Courtesy Vanilla County

Twin Temples of Poonjar

Adjacent to the palace are the Madurai Meenakshi and Sastha Temples. The Meenakshi Temple is particularly notable for its extensive stone engravings. The walls of the inner praharam have 2,200 lamps hewn from the stone itself. The idol was brought here from Madurai at the time of the royal migration. Some of the etchings on the stone walls depict scenes from the Ramayana, yet another Tamil influence. The Sastha Temple is also a work of art in its own right. The walls are carved granite, the pattikas (rooftop support) made from a single piece of wood.

Ayyampara

Ayyampara lies at the end of a road that turns towards the countryside at the Thalanadu Junction on the Erattupetta-Teekoy route. It is a beautiful hill with huge black rocks that stretch out endlessly. Driving to the top, and emerging next to the Little Flower School, affords a view of the sea on the Ernakulam coast and glimpses of Alappuzha.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The ride from Erattupetta to Vagamon is winding but comfortable. A few kilometres ahead of Erattupetta, one can see the foothills of the Western Ghats, and touch Teekoy, named after a tea plantation established by the British in 1905. All around, you see only tall, towering trees in endless rows.

A short drive further away and Baby Mathew Vallikappen’s Vanilla County (Cell: 09744183835, 09048624648; Tariff: ₹4,000–6,400) homestay can be sighted. Step out and the heady scent of cloves, pepper and cardamom envelops you. A stay here means you can take a two-hour trek across the Vallikappen Estate, a dip in the Meenachil and sight timber-hauling elephants at various places on the Poonjar-Teekoy Road (depending upon the availability of elephants, this timber hauling is done once or twice a month).

Situated in a 50-acre farm at Kurumannu, 15km from Pala, Ann’s Homestay (Tel: 04822-221287; Tariff: ₹10,000) offers the perfect plantation ambience, complete with home-grown, homecooked food. Another good homestay is Planters Homestay (Cell: 09447128060; Tariff: ₹5,500) in Bharananganam.

A room in Vanilla County

Apart from the homestays, you can stay at Finch Hotel (Tel: 275979; Tariff: ₹3,000–5,000) in Errattupeeta, Hotel Olive International (Tel: 211200, 211300; Tariff: ₹2,000–4,000) on River View Road, or Maharani Hotel (Tel: 212520, 200234; Tariff: ₹900–2,500) on the Main Road. All the hotels listed above have restaurants.