Harnai-Murud: Twin Temptations

Their proximity to each other has earned them the tag of ‘twin beaches’ but there’s little that Harnai and Murud have in common. While Harnai is chaotic and crowded, Murud is just the opposite. There’s solitude here, and the quiet shore is the very anti thesis of Harnai, where the urgency of fish auctions attract throngs of people each day.

Indeed, even on days when the overcast sky is the colour of a clamshell, Harnai’s fisherfolk are out in the sea, trawling its waters for fish, and later sell their catch on the shore. The buyers also turn up in full force, in autos, cycles, snazzy cars or on foot. However, the colourful cacophony at Harnai leaves you unprepared for the serene beauty of Murud Beach. The sky at sunset forms the perfect backdrop for a walk along a winding road that lattices the beach. The moon slowly climbs up and casts its silvery reflection on the waters, and in the solitude, it’s easy to imagine that you own this magnificent beach. And fortunately for you, there’s usually no one around to dispel such fantastic notions.

BEACH WATCH

The Harnai Beach, primarily a fishing dock, isn’t a good place for swimming. Murud Beach is relatively safer, and offers enough privacy.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

There’s very little by way of activity at the beaches here. Therefore, it’s best to explore Anjarle in the morning, enjoy a swim at Murud, and then head to Harnai for a fish auction in the evening. For a lovely sunset experience, you can also drive out to Karde.

Harnai

There are hills on one side of the beach, a mosque in the backdrop and Harnai Bunder on the adjacent side. The fish auctions are, undoubtedly, the main attraction for people here. They are held daily between 5.00pm and 7.00pm. The catch of the day is sold off to the highest bidder, and the rest is exported to Karnataka, Mumbai and Goa. On weekends, the beach comes alive with hawkers.

Harnai Bunder, or Suvarnadurg Fort as it is also referred to, is Harnai’s forbidden territory. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, the fort is apparently home to wild animals, and locals try to keep visitors from exploring inside. Considering the intensity with which they dissuade you, you are better off staying out. About a kilometre from Harnai, on a hill, are the Durgadevi Temple and the Siddhi Vinayak Ganapati Temple, revered by locals.

Murud (4 km)

The palm-fringed beach of Murud is just what the doctor ordered. The clear, calm waters of the sea meet the black sands dotted with crab holes on a long stretch of beach. You’ll have to walk a lot during low tide to reach the waves, but then it’s worth it; the sea at Murud is ideal for swimming.

Masoom, who belongs to Sterling Water Sports (Tel: 02358-234539, Cell: 09421900417) conducts a number of activities like jet-ski rides (₹300 per person), banana rides (₹200), parasailing (₹1,200). You can also go dolphin spotting with him, aboard a small motorboat (₹150 per person for a short trip).

Anjarle (15 Km)

As you move about 4 km along the coast from Harnai, passing Paj Pandari Beach en route, you will come across a small jetty. For a fare of ₹15 per person, you can cross the Jog Creek and reach Anjarle on a precariously balanced boat. The creek’s narrow stream of water is murky, so don’t attempt to swim across. On a weekday you might have to shell out the fare for five more people to cross over. If returning late, inform the boatman in advance, or you will have to spend the night in Anjarle. A bridge on the far right can be used if going by road. The black sands of Anjarle Beach are mixed with gravel and dotted with shells. The beach is a treat for marine life enthusiasts, with a variety of snails, crabs and corals visible near the shore.

Karde (9 km)

Walk 3 km south of Murud, past a lovely lagoon and you will reach the isolated beach stretch of Karde. A winding road plays hide and seek with the brown sands, and the only activity to indulge in is to walk with the sea on one side and the hills on the other.

WHERE TO STAY

Harnai doesn’t have many stay options. The best establishments are along Murud and Karde beaches. Many resorts and guesthouses have mushroomed along this stretch. During holidays, it is best to reserve your room in advance.

On Murud Beach

Lotus Beach Resort (Tel: 02358- 234582, 234828, Cell: 09271001568; Tariff: ₹4,000–6,000), formerly Kamat’s Murud Beach Resort and located on Murud Beach, is a joint venture with MTDC, and offers good hospitality and service. There are 30 comfortable cottages available here, including family cottages and four-bedded rooms as well as ten bamboo tents (without AC).

The beautiful blue waters off Anjarle Beach

Silver Sand Beach Resort (Tel: 234501, Cell: 09226404740; Tariff: ₹2,500–6,500) at Karve Pakhadi in Murud has 16 colourful, pastelshaded cottages that immediately catch your attention. Ask for a beach-facing cottage. Hammocks com plete the ‘beachy’ ambience.

Dreamland Inn (Tel: 234730, 234871; Tariff: ₹2,000–2,500), near Durga Temple, with 30 rooms and a restaurant, is one of the better options here.

Swapnadeep Beach Resort (Cell: 09223289152/55; Tariff: ₹2,800– 4,000) is another popular choice witha few mini bun galows, cottages and dorms. The resort is located near NK Waradkar High School in Varchi Pakhadi.

Besides these, the following establishments offer a budget stay: Surbhi Beach Resort (Tel: 234556; Tariff: ₹850–1,000) on Murud Beach has eight brick huts and a restaurant. Abhiruchi (Cell: 09271753147; Tariff: ₹1,200–1,500) on Murud Beach has six basic cottages with attached bathrooms.

Saniya Sea Resort (Cell: 092700 61125; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,200) in Khalchi Pakhadi, is very close to the beach.

On Karde Beach

Sea Face Beach Resort (Cell: 07798720941; Tariff: ₹1,400–1,870) is probably the best deal in the area, situated across the road from the sea. It has 18 pleasant, spacious sea-facing rooms, with a lovely balcony in each, offering an unhindered view of the sea. Whistling Palms Beach Resort (Tel: 234659, Cell: 092724 51972; Tariff: ₹2,000–5,000) is another luxurious property right on the beach with 19 sea-facing rooms and suites. Their restaurant serves a variety of Konkani and seafood delicacies.

Surali Sagar (Cell: 092233 33030,/07738013351; Tariff: ₹1,800– 3,500) on the beach has both rooms and cottages. It arranges boating as well as paragliding.

Hotel Kinara (Tel: 234633; Tariff: ₹2,121–2,960), has 12 sea-facing cottages, basic but well kept. For food, order two hours in advance. The checkout time is 10.00am.

Sagar Hill Beach Resort (Cell: 09323899189/ 09029094596; Tariff: ₹1,600–2,500) is another beachside property located where Karde Beach begins. There are 22 rooms, of which 19 are sea facing, providing very little comfort. This should be your last resort, but then there are not too many hotels on this beach. There is also a restaurant that serves Konkani and Malvani cuisine and decent seafood preparations.

The day’s catch being auctioned

Sagar Sawali (Tel: 234947; Tariff: ₹2,400–2,960) is right on the beach, with 17 rooms. Savour lip-smacking Konkani food at their restaurant. There are superb views of the sea.

WHERE TO EAT

Although there are plenty of resorts in the vicinity, it’s necessary to place your order in advance. There are a few places that do take walk-in orders. Lotus Resort’s Wadi Restaurant serves Indian, Chinese, Konkani, south-Indian and Punjabi meals. What you must try here is the prawn curry, which has a typical Konkani flavour.

Surali Garden Restaurant has a variety of Konkani, Tandoori and Chinese dishes. Sagar Dhara Restaurant on Murud Beach, behind the Durgadevi Temple, is the only eating joint open till midnight, serving vegetarian as well as nonvegetarian thalis. Their pomfret thali is quite popular. The seating arrangement is in a large verandah with a mango tree in the middle.

Hotel Laxmi in Harnai offers seafood and local dishes. Annapurna, a small restaurant on Murud Beach, also serves fairly decent Malvani and Konkani food.