Alappuzha: Life in Slow Motion

The quay in Alappuzha is now a storm-battered relic, staring forlornly at the sea, a reminder of all that this small town once was. Up until a few years back, visitors could walk out onto the Arabian Sea on the wooden boards of the quay, the blue waters visible through the gaps between the planks. Even now, the waves tell a story of the resplendent ‘Venice of the East’ that was an entry point long before Kochi became the harbour of choice.

At the same time, it is difficult to imagine that Alappuzha misses its past; while commerce flourishes here, the town remains quite untouched by modernity. So when a rice mill came up in 1980, it called for a major celebration across town. Similarly, when a railway track was laid in the early 90s, it was considered an astounding event. Everything about this town reinforces an old world feeling, from the Colonial-era government houses, grand and graceful despite the years, to the canals, green and coated with weeds and filled with boats carrying hay or bananas.

The sea, Alappuzha’s enduring motif, is beautiful and dangerous in equal measure; watching the waves lap quietly against the pure white sands, the waters bountiful with catch for the fishermen, it is difficult to believe that this benign body of water unleashed havoc during the tsunami of December 2004. The Malayali writer Thakazhi Sivasankaran Pillai immortalized these contradictions of the ocean in his award-winning novel Chemmeen, emphasising that the sea that blesses, can also take everything away. It is difficult to keep in mind the moodiness of the sea, however, while walking on the beach on a winter afternoon, the white lighthouse standing tall against the clear blue skies.

The canals in Alappuzha throw up another study in contrasts. Boatmen row past the weeds with incredible grace and agility as traffic hurtles above on modern bridges, such as the Iron Bridge, the Stone Bridge and the Palace Bridge. As vehicles whiz past, the canal reflects myriad colours, of the water lily, a bird’s wing and the brilliant hues of the tropical sky, in the tiny space that the water hyacinth has left for the sunlight to seep in. Tourists are not permitted to ride on the boats in these interior canals. However, during Onam, in the month of August, the hurrahs of the Nehru Trophy Boat Race – one of the most celebrated events in Kerala – more than make up for this restriction. Despite its small-town appearance, Alappuzha has an impressive history. The port was built by Raja Kesava Das, the Dewan of Travancore, in the 18th century. Another enduring contribution comes from the Darraigh Smaile and Company, whose Irish founder James Darraigh introduced the coir industry to the town. The story about how they brought technicians ‘Bannerjee and Mukherjee’ from Bengal to teach locals the art of spinning yarn from coir is now something of a local legend. Even though today the rubber plantations are more significant from the commercial standpoint, the tradition continues: among the fisherfolk, women still work with coir to magically mould it into ropes and mats, weaving tales as they spin their yarn. Alappuzha has also witnessed many nationalist and social reform movements. The Punnapra-Vayalar agitation is considered by some as a landmark revolt by workers against authoritarian landlords, and it is movements such as these that have shaped Alappuzha.

ORINTATION

There are six navigable canals in the town, each accompanied by parallel roads on either side. The Vadai Canal North Bank (VCNB) and Vadai Canal South Bank (VCSB) Roads and the Commercial Canal North Bank (CCNB) and Commercial Canal South Bank (CCSB) Roads run parallel to each other across the city. In the east, these canals open to the Punnamada Kayal (backwaters), connecting the city to the mesh of backwater trails, once abuzz with traders and travellers. Follow the VCNB and VCSB roads to Alleppey’s Boat Jetty on the Punnamada backwaters, crowded with numerous houseboat and backwater operators. On the western side, the canals end near the pier on Alleppey Beach. Traffic hurtles over the canals along Alleppey’s Iron, Stone and Palace bridges. The names of the bridges convey an older, gentler time, when there was very little traffic, and like the disused pier, the bridges were designed for pedestrians. The railway station is in southwest Alappuzha, near the District Hospital.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Alappuzha’s allure lies primarily in the backwaters. It is beneficial to begin any exploration of the town with a cruise from the Boat Jetty, before strolling back into town past the canals covered with mauve hyacinths. While the town’s natural beauty is truly awe – inspiring, the heritage structures all carry incredible stories. Much of the architecture here, especially of the government offices, is Colonial, and has survived the years of continuous use very well. Remnants of Alappuzha’s social reform movements – such as the Punnapra- Vayalar Martyr’s Column – dot the town as well.

Stone bridge across Vadai Canal

Vijaya Beach

Alappuzha was once the busiest coast south of Mumbai, with canals and backwaters supporting the passage of cargo, such as tea, rubber or other produce from the hills to the sea. The lighthouse and the pier helped the boats ferry across their wares. The 1000-ft long pier, built in 1862 by Captain Hugh Crawford, is now a mere skeleton of its past. With many bricks having fallen apart and washed away by the sea, it is quite risky to walk on. Yet it exudes the unmistakable air of a Colonial construction. Entry to the lighthouse is restricted as well. There are several entertainment facilities on the Vijaya Beach, including a children’s park run by the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC) and boating facilities.

Park Entry ₹2; free for children below 5 years Timings 3:00–8:00pm Boating Charges ₹10 Photography ₹5 Videography ₹25 Tel 0477- 2242960

The Glorious Backwaters

A backwater cruise on the Punnamada Kayal will take visitors along canals and past scenic islands with sublime views of coconut and paddy fields, Chinese fishing nets and toddy tappers at work. Boats can be hired from the Tourist Boat Jetty near the bus stand. The DTPC also arranges for private cruises at the jetty behind the DTPC office. KSRTC boats cruise the backwaters as well, touching the villages all around. Boating options include cruises from Alleppey to Kollam and Kottayam. The Punnamada Kayal is the starting point for the annual boat races in Alappuzha. This is where the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, the biggest snake boat race in the state, is held on the second Saturday of August. There are boats of all sizes, some with as many as 100 rowers and watching these snake boats competing with each other is an awesome sight. 

Boating Fare ₹200–500 per hour; ₹1500–4500 per day Departure for Daily Tour (eight-hour long) 10:30am Fare ₹300 per head Kuttanadu Boat Cruise Departure 11:00am, Fare ₹150 per head DTPC Administrative Office Tel 0477-2253308 W alappuzhatourism.com

Houseboat on Alappuzha backwaters

R and QST Block Islands

Alappuzha’s beauty extends to the manmade islands that have been carefully built in the waters. These islands, hedged by mud walls, are a haven for migratory birds, with paddy fields that stand below sea level. These are also inundated with water throughout the year.

R Block Island is especially famous for its fresh toddy. It is possible to drop in and hang out at the toddy shop until the next boat comes around, while sampling delicious seafood dishes, like crabs, clams, prawns and a variety of fish that are endemic to the backwaters. For those who are keen on taking a dip in the backwaters, the R Block and QST Islands are the best bet. The Kerala State Water Transport Department offers cruises to R Block Island. Speedboats and motorboats are also available for hire.

KSWTD Alleppey Boat Jetty Counter Tel 0477-2252510 Cruise Timings 7:30am–7:15pm Fare ₹650 per head

Mullackal

Alappuzha town is built around a Konkani Brahmin settlement called Mullackal, which is known for its incredible sweets as well as the Bhagavathy Temple. The main deity of the temple is Goddess Bhagavathy, flanked by installations of navavigrahangal, the nine planets. Another temple, dedicated to Mariamman, the twin sister of the Mullackal Bhagavathy, was built about a kilometre from Mullackal. The main festival at the Bhagvathy Temple is Chirappu, held in December, when all of Alappuzha decks up with festoons and flags. A fair, with numerous colourful items on display and sale, is also organized during this time.

Timings 5:00–11:00am & 5:00–8:00pm Main Festival 10-day Mullackal Chirappu in December

Mullackal Bhagavathy Temple complex

SHOPPING

Shopping in Alappuzha is an exhilarating community experience – joyful and vibrant not because of the products but the sense of being a part of the throng. The streets near the Mullackal shopping junction are filled with the scent of limes and jasmines, sandalwood and spices. Vendors selling spices such as cloves and pepper sit cramped together on this busy road, each competing to sell his product. Most of the shopping for weddings in the region takes place here, and the streets are filled with an air of urgency and jubilation. In winter, the Sabarimala devotees spill into town, and the streets are filled with vendors once more. At this time, it is possible to pick up everything from sharp knives, combs, toys and clothes to incense, carvings and heavy metal utensils at very reasonable prices.

Alappuzha has known thriving spice and paper trade. Some of the oldest and best stationers in Kerala, oldest and best stationers in Kerala, such as the P.A. George Company, on Church Road, are based in this town. Also famous is a ‘gold, silver and diamond street’ in Mukkackal, where around 30 stories sell intricately crafted jewellery. The most famous of these is Bhima and Brother, which is part of a chain of jewellery stores across Kerala. Other stores sell fine muslin, bronze and copper ware. such as the P.A. George Company, on Church Road, are based in this town. Also famous is a ‘gold, silver and diamond street’ in Mukkackal, where around 30 stories sell intricately crafted jewellery. The most famous of these is Bhima and Brother, which is part of a chain of jewellery stores across Kerala. Other stores sell fine muslin, bronze and copper ware.

Popy’s, near the Iron Bridge, and St. George, in Mullackal, the best known umbrella brands in Kerala, are based in Alappuzha. The Gandhi Store on the main street sells cheap khadi fabric of excellent quality. Seematti Textiles, also near the Iron ridge, has a good selection of fine, gold-bordered saris, sold at rates much cheaper than in other towns of Kerala.

Tharavad Heritage Resort

Courtesy Tharavad Resort

WHERE TO STAY

Alappuzha boasts some of Kerala’s loveliest hotels, on land and offshore. Within the town, you will find a cluster of hotels on NH47, about 2km from the centre of town. These are all well connected to the town by taxi, auto and bus.

TIP The most popular options in Alleppey are hotels that front the Punnamada backwaters. Many visitors to Alleppey opt for its unique stay offer – in a kettuvallom (houseboat) on the backwaters. Houseboats are run by both private operators and the government.

Tharavad Heritage Resort (Tel: 0477-2242044, 2244599; Tariff: ₹2,500–3,500), earlier Anamika, the Villa, is set in a painstakingly renovated 100-year-old Syrian Christian tharavad in the heart of Alleppey. The hotel arranges kettuvallom and speed or motorboat cruises, visits to a coir-making village and Kathakali or Mohiniattam cultural evenings.

Raheem Residency (Tel: 2230767, 2239767; Tariff: ₹5,600–10,400), ‘a gift from the past for the present’, is a heritage home located on Alleppey Beach. The 10 spacious rooms are furnished with traditional items made of teak, and there’s a one-bedroom independent unit in a separate courtyard, refurbished from old outhouses.

Gowri Heritage Residence (Tel: 2236371/ 471; Tariff: ₹800–2,000) in Thondankulangara is also set in a tharavad. They offer backwater tours as well. Alleppey Beach Resorts (Tel: 2263408, 2260125, Cell: 094959 33409; Tariff: ₹3,500–4,000) has eight rooms off Alleppey Beach. It is one of the better options, with private access to the beach, and houseboat cruises. Alleppey Prince Hotel (Tel: 2243752-57; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,500), on Cherthala Road (NH47), has 42 rooms and a poolside restaurant with regular evening music shows. They serve local cuisine, although the Continental cuisine is the safest and best bet. The handicraft shop here sells ethnically embroidered clothes as well as some exquisitely carved silver jewellery.

Restaurant seating by the pool, Alleppy Prince Hotel

Courtesy Alleppy Prince Hotel

Budget options include KTDC’s Motel Aaram (Tel: 2244460, Cell: 0940008675/ 86; Tariff: ₹1,330–2,300) and Tamarind Easy Hotel (Cell: 09400008675, Tariff: ₹1,100–1,900) in Kalappura; and Ashtamudi Homestay (Cell: 09947034999, 09605080177; Tariff: ₹800–1,200) in Zilla Court Ward. The Government Guest House (Tel: 2246503), near Alleppey Prince Hotel on NH47 is currently being renovated. The KTDC hotels have restaurants.

Dazzle Dew (Cell: 09846066446, 09387266440; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,500) is a small homestay offering seven rooms and Ayurveda treatments near the Cheramankulangara Temple. Villa Brook Heritage Home (Tel: 2244067, Cell: 09526093034; Tariff: ₹2,000–2,500) is another homestay, offering three rooms and authentic Kerala cuisine near the Cullen Bridge in Sea View Ward. Pagoda Resorts (Tel: 2251697; Tariff: ₹2,125–4,650) at Chungam has 12 cottages, a swimming pool, the Banana Leaf Restaurant, a bar and Ayurveda centre.

Beautiful grounds of the Marari Beach Resort

Courtesy Marari Beach Resort

Pozhiyoram Beach Resort (Cell: 09349438223, 09387280591; Tariff: ₹1,300–3,250) is a beachside hotel in a quiet northern suburb. It has 10 rooms, a restaurant and Ayurveda centre.

The Marari Beach Resort (Tel: 0478-2863801-09; Tariff: ₹9,500–26,000) sprawls across 25 acres, off the soft sandy beach at the fishing village of Mararikulam, just north of Alappuzha. The 62 cottages here are separated from the sea by a windbreak of coconut palms. Relaxing oil and herbal massages, and longer-term authentic Ayurvedic treatments are offered, as are openair yoga classes. Fresh karimeen, prawns and lobsters are served at the Chakara Restaurant here. Abad Turtle Beach Resort (Cell: 09895890776; Tariff: ₹8,000–9,000), located at Pollathai Beach in Mararikulam offers 29 cottages, a private beach, restaurant as well as a spa.

WHERE TO EAT

It is because of Alappuzha’s proximity to the sea that the area is famous for seafood delicacies. Other authentic dishes, such as appams and stew, can be sampled as well.

For the true local experience, visitors must sample karimeen pollichathu – a local delicacy where pearlspot fish from the backwaters is baked over coals and covered in banana leaves, or karimeen curry. This spicy fish is served with kappa (tapioca) – a staple in the diet of the region, as common in the local kitchens as rice – cut into slices and boiled. Konchu pollichathu (a preparation of brackish water prawns) and varal fry are also equally delicious.

An excellent place to take one’s taste buds out for a ride is Hotel Green Corner in Pazhayangadi. Hotel Aryaas, near the medical college, serves excellent vegetarian food, and the Gujarathi Street near the beach has good hotels specialising in north Indian food. The Mullackal area offers scrumptious Udupi vegetarian fare. In Alappuzha Town, the KTDC Motel Aaram on NH47 serves lunch, with karimeen fry and vegetables cooked in the local style. They also have a buffet meal. Prince Hotel serves a fine dish of grilled prawns, more of a Continental preparation. The DTPC runs Café Venice adjacent to its office near the jetty. Halay’s near Alleppey South Police Station serves excellent biryani. Dreamers Café on the beachfront has a great ambience and offers Indian and European food. Cassia, on the highway, serves delicious seafood. They have an outlet on the beachside too.

For an authentic culinary experience, travellers can drop in at the toddy shop on R-Block Island, where apart from konchu and karimeen, all the delicacies are freshly caught from the water, cooked and served. While some of these dishes do take time to be served, visitors can enjoy some toddy while waiting. For a luxurious and relaxing dining experience, visitors may head to the Kalpakavadi Inn at Kannalippalam near the Thottapalli Spillway, south of Alleppey on NH47, for fine Kuttanadan food. This inn is surrounded by a coconut grove, set next to a backwater, and it has cottages where you can sit and relax while fresh fish caught from the lake is prepared.

There are clusters of excellent bakeries near the jetty and in the Mullackal Ward and opposite the small temples on the main street, with fruit cake that has a rich brown heavy Christmas-like quality all year round.

AROUND ALAPPUZHA

Arthunkal (22km)

This coastal town is known to be an important centre of pilgrimage. St Andrew’s Church at Arthunkal, built by the Portuguese in 1591 CE, reflects the Hindu influence on the Jesuit missionaries who supervised its construction. Both Christian and Hindu devotees flock to this pilgrim spot. The church is known best for Arthunkal Perunnal, a famous feast celebrated here, dedicated to St Sebastian. It was here on November 29, 1829 that Kuriakose Elias Chavara was ordained as a priest. On the way back from Arthunkal, it is possible to stop at Chennaveli, where an old man called Sashittan runs a toddy shop that serves excellent toddy and Kuttanadstyle food.

Cherthala (20km)

To the north of Alappuzha District lies Cherthala, a noted coirweaving centre, where visitors can witness the traditional way of manufacturing coir. North of Cherthala Town is a very ancient Bhagavathy Temple, famous for its annual festival. About 2km away is Vayalar, where the Punnapra-Vayalar revolt took place. During this revolt in 1946, the workers, organised and led by communists, rose against authoritarian landlords in the area. The Travancore State Police were deployed to brutally suppress the revolt. The workers’ struggle has now become something of a legend and some consider it as an important agitation that propelled Kerala towards the setting up of a democratic government. The Martyrs’ Memorial stands here at Vayalar, flanked by coconut palms that still bear bullet marks from the police firing.

Inputs by K.V. Cybil