Thenmala: The Good Earth

Eco-tourism tends to have a reputation for being somewhat rigid, aiming to educate rather than entertain. Thenmala’s ecotourism programmes challenge this definition to a great extent, focusing on adventure as well as awareness, full of fun and also carrying the potential of being something more. You could walk along a nature trail, simply taking in the clean air and peaceful surroundings, and if you choose to, you could also learn more about the flora and fauna – from monkeylike creatures, who are in fact macaca radiata, primates indigenous to the area, to forests, rubber and tea plantations.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Thenmala is India’s first formally planned eco-tourism project. A day at the Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre offers activities for both the child in you and the child with you. And if that is still not your cup of tea, there are still temples and shrines dedicated to various gods, and a number of waterfalls ideal for bathing.

Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre

The easiest way to experience ecotourism at Thenmala is through the Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre near Dam Junction. It is central to all other attractions and also offers tours and experiences that will fill your day. Their day trip includes a Butterfly Safari, time at all three ‘zones’ and trekking.

The ‘zones’ include the Adventure Zone, the Leisure Zone and the Culture Zone. The Adventure Zone is an enjoyable way to spend time for those who long for more rigorous activities, such as nature walks, elevated walkways, recreational rock-climbing, rappelling and river-crossing. The Leisure Zone, marked by its massive boardwalk and swaying bridge, is a charming space set within verdant greenery, and is an excellent counter to the more rigorous activities of the Adventure Zone. There is also a sculpture garden that has several huge and breathtaking displays based on the theme of “man and nature”. Another spectacular way to spend the time is at the Musical Dancing Fountain in the Culture Zone, where jets of water dance to popular film songs as well as ‘Saare Jahan Se Achha’.

Also in to the Facilitation Centre is the Deer Rehabilitation Centre where spotted, sambar as well as barking deer, that have strayed from forests, are cared for. These animals are given food and medical attention.  There is a nature trail around their enclosure that visitors use to spot deer. It is also possible to climb the really tall ladder to their treehouse for a great view of the thick forests surrounding the centre.

Timings 9.00am–5.00pm Tel 0475-2344800 Cell 09496344800; 09495344800 Email [email protected], [email protected] W thenmalaecotourism.com

Shenduruney WLS

One of the major attractions at Thenmala is the Shenduruney Sanctuary. Boating facilities are available in the reservoir here. The hour-long boat rides demonstrate eco-tourism at its most sincere. Battery-operated vans carry visitors from the Facilitation Centre to the harbour, and this ride itself is spectacular, full of amazing views of the Sanctuary. Those who are really lucky sometimes spot exotic species.

Another potential activity at the Sanctuary is trekking through the Western Ghats. Trekking programmes are organised by the Thiruvananthapuram-based National Adventure Foundation, at very nominal prices. Discounts are available for group bookings. The trekking charges are inclusive of food and transportation. It is also possible to stay overnight. Visitors may also hire guides for treks at the Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre.

Overnight ₹2,000 onwards

TIP Please note that permits can be obtained before arriving here from the Chief Wildlife Warden, Thiruvananthapuram, or from the Wildlife Warden or Assistant Wildlife Warden at Shenduruney itself

Timings 9.00am–5.00pm, Closed January to April Tel 0475-2344600, 0475-2344300 Cell 09447217035, 8547602930

Monkeys outside Sri Dharmasastha temple

Sri Dharmasastha Kshetram, Kulathupuzha

This Ayyappa temple witnesses the unique ritual of meen-o-ottu, feeding peanuts and puffed rice to fish in the nearby lake. A bridge offers a good view of the fish feeding on the food. In addition to this, the temple itself is ancient, originally constructed by the Raja of Pandalam. The presentday structure is credited to the Raja of Kottarakkara. The temple celebrates Meda Vishu, which lasts 10 days, from 5 to 15 April every year.

Location 10km from Thenmala Timings 4.00am–1.00pm & 5.00–10.00pm Tel 0475-2222147

Aryankavu

A major shrine by the side of the Kollam-Shencottah Road, Aryankavu is one of the most important Ayyappa sites. While some consider the god residing in the temple here to be his Brahmachar avatar, others believe that this is the site where he married Pushkala from the Sourashtra community. Due to the latter, one of the main festivals at this temple is Thirukalyanam, celebrating Ayappa’s marriage to Pushkala. The Mandala Puja is also important. Interestingly, the temple has been built 35ft below the level of the road.

Also worth visiting here is the Aryankavu Railway Station, short way from the temple. With one platform, two tracks, one old handpump, the Station Master’s office and a few idyllic benches, this station looks like something picked out of an RK Narayan story. Thundering trains pass through the station, an excellent way to rediscover the romance of rail travel.

Location 10km from Thenmala Temple Timings 5.00–11.00am & 5.00–8.00pm Main Festival Mandalam Mahotsavam in Vrischikam (November–December)

Palaruvi Falls

About 4km from Aryankavu, the Palaruvi Falls are a slender thread of water falling from a height of around 300ft. The name Palaruvi translates, appropriately, into “stream of milk”. The water collects in a little pond below, where bathing is allowed. To get to the falls, visitors need to walk along the narrow road through the woods. It is possible to stay overnight at Kerala Tourism’s Hotel Aaram. Visitors can also stop by their restaurant, 4km from the falls, next to which is a checkpoint where they will be asked to hand over their belongings, as well as leave behind any liquor they may be carrying.

Entry ₹5 Timings 8.00am–6.00pm

Aryankavu Temple

WHERE TO STAY

The most centrally located hotel in Thenmala is probably the Lake View Ayurvedic Resort and Research Centre (LARC; Cell: 09447704316), a beautiful, sprawling structure carved out from the hills that offers a great view from the top. Facilities inside the rooms are adequate. The resort was being renovated at the time of going to press. Please check before booking. Those looking for less expensive options could try the Thenmala Eco-Tourism Centre (Tel: 0475-2344800/ 55, Cell: 09496- 344800; Tariff: ₹1,000–1,400, tents ₹2,000–2,600) which sublets three rooms of a big house, ideal for individual or couple travellers. They offer tents as well.

Closer to Aryankavu is Palaruvi Resort (Cell: 08547456554, 09447420660; Tariff: ₹1,000–2,500), on the Palaruvi Waterfalls Road. There is a restaurant, coffee shop and Internet. You may also stay at Hotel Green Valley (Tel: 2335134; Tariff: ₹750–1,500) in Urukunnu, about 5km from Thenmala, or Hotel Annapoorna (Cell: 09447295288, 09447067288; Tariff: ₹650–1,100), near Shenkottai Bus Stand, about 25km from Thenmala.

Visitors admiring the 300-ft-high Palaruvi Falls

WHERE TO EAT

Options for eating out are very limited in Thenmala. The best bet the Thenmala Garden Restaurant (Cell: 09447420660) opposite the Thenmala Ecotourism Facilitation Centre. A privately owned multicuisine restaurant, Hill Palace, has now opened in the Culture Zone. However, food is provided here only when it is booked 24 hours in advance (Cell: 09847997018). Other eateries here include Appus Restaurant (Cell: 08593076016), Hotel Soorya and KIP Canteen. Most of the other places to eat are located 25km away, in Tirunelveli and Varkala.

AROUND THENMALA

Hanging Bridge, Punalur (22km)

This striking bridge is located en route from Thenmala to Kottarakkara. The inscription that stands on the arch straddling the beautiful structure dates it to the year 1877.

Built across the Kallada river, this protected monument is about 20-ft wide, with a base of wooden planks and sides made out of metal. Vehicles were allowed to pass across the bridge earlier. However, it is only open to pedestrians now.

Achankovil (20km)

Another major Ayyappa Temple, Achankovil houses an idol, brandishing a sword and a shield, that is said to have been consecrated by Parasurama. Ayyappa is worshipped here in his Grihastha avatar, along with his consorts Poorna and Pushkala. Eighteen steps lead visitors down to the main temple, where the vedi vazhipadu, a practice of honouring the god with the bursting of crackers, is carried out regularly. In many ways this temple is similar to the Sabarimala Temple. Achankovil can be reached by a long, winding mountain road, along which lie the Manalar Falls, the name given to the tiny strip of cascading water usually visible after the rains, and the Kumbavurutty Falls, which is about half a kilometre away from the main road. The Kumbavurutty Falls are flanked by a Nature Interaction Centre and treehouses for children.

Temple Timings 5.00am–12.00pm & 5.00–8.00pm Main Festival Achankovil Utsavam in December Tel 0475-2342383/65-68

TIP Men must be bare chested in order to enter the temple

The pedestrian-only Hanging Bridge at Punalur

Mahanganapathi Temple, Kottarakkara (43km)

Although the name suggests that the predominant deity of Kottarakkara’s Mahaganapathi Temple is Ganesha, it is actually Shiva. The temple was originally known as the Mahadeva Temple, and also hosts shrines to Parvathi, Ayyappa, Murugan and Nagaraja. The famous prasadam here consists of unniappam, a soft, sweet delicacy, available at a counter near the solid gold dwajasthambam (flag mast). The most important festivals are Vinayaka Chathurthi, when a big homam is conducted and over 10,000 coconuts are offered to the diety. The annual temple festival falls on Meda Thiruvadhira, Shiva’s star, usually in the first half of May, and is completely sponsored by devotees. The main highlight is a procession of several hundred elephants.

Timings 5.00–11.00am & 5.00– 8.00pm Main Festival Thiruvadhira Utsavam in Medam (April–May)

Kathakali performance in progress

Thampuran Museum of Classical Arts, Kottarakkara (43km)

While a full-fledged museum is expected to be set up with government funding soon, so far this museum is basically a small, cramped house that displays lifesized statues adorned with the various vesham (attires) worn by Kathakali dancers during performances. Kottarakkara is the birthplace of this traditional dance form. The founder of the art was the Kottarakkara Thampuran, after whom this museum is named. There are also statues and representations of other dance forms, such as Kudiyattam, Kuchipudi, Mohiniattam and Bharatanatyam. A very old Tanjore veena is also displayed here, albeit in quite a dilapidated condition.

Location The museum is 1.5km away from the Mahaganapathy Temple Timings 10.00am–5.00pm Closed Monday

Velu Thampi Smarakam, Mannadi (52km)

As the name suggests, this monument is a memorial to the great warrior Velu Thampi (1765–1809 CE), the Dewan of Travancore who rallied his people against the British in a revolt. When his rebellion was quelled, rather than be captured by the enemy, he committed suicide by slitting his throat. It is believed that the memorial is built at the spot where Veluthampi prayed for the last time before ending his life. The central display is made of black stone, surrounded by patches of overgrown grass. It is advisable to get a quick view from outside the gate, en route to the Mannadi Devi Temple, which is barely a kilometre away.