Warangal: Old Dreams New Dreams

Warangal encompasses everything that describes Telangana – a historic legacy, revolutionary nerve and spicy food. Bluntly put, a visit to this state is meaningless without exploring Warangal and walking back in time to discover the spirit of Telangana. The city is one of those places that is briefly mentioned in history textbooks but never really given the attention it deserves. The Kakatiya dynasty, which was the first to consolidate and rule the entire area of Telangana, had its capital here. Hence, Warangal is the place where everything began, making it the nucleus of the state.

The city’s history dates back to about 12th century CE, when the Kakatiyas built the Waranagal Fort and subsequently left behind some architectural masterpieces and infrastructure in this region, which have no parallel in the state. Warangal and its surrounding areas also have some of the most enchanting manmade lakes in the state. The region is home to several handicrafts, which Telangana is famous for – Pembarthi metalwork and Cheriyal paintings both belong to this district.

An exquisitely carved Nandi at Thousand Pillar Temple

Renuka Kelkar

The district was the nerve centre of important revolutions. It was one of the regions where the peasant movement against the zamindars (rich landlords) and the civilian movement against the razakars (Nizam’s private militia) started before the princely state of Hyderabad was annexed by the Indian Union. The people’s and students’ movement for a separate state of Telangana was also organized in a big way here.

Today, Warangal is famous for its educational institutions. The city is home to the prestigious Kakatiya University, Mahatma Gandhi Medical College and a National Institute of Technology. It is the second-fastest growing city in Telangana, after Hyderabad, and has been named amongst 11 other heritage cities in the Heritage City Development and Augmentation Yojana of Government of India.

History

Some sources suggest that Warangal was under the Yadava Kingdom during the 8th century CE and it was subsequently taken over by the Kakatiyas. It is difficult to ascertain exactly when the Kakatiya kingdom was established. Historic inscriptions that belong to this dynasty are not entirely available due to raids conducted by external powers that waged war against this land. However, the dynasty is said to have flourished from 1175 CE to 1324 CE during the rule of Rudradeva (sometimes referred to as Prataparudra I), Ganapathideva, Rani Rudrama Devi and Prataparudra II. These four rulers are credited with building temples such as the Thousand Pillar Temple (see p306) and the Ramappa Temple.

The first ruler of the Kakatiya dynasty, Rudradeva, had his capital in Hanmakonda, which is adjacent to the present day city of Warangal. His son, Ganapathideva continued to rule from Hanmakonda. Legend has it that Ganapathideva once learned about a horse cart from his kingdom, which was stuck at a nearby place that housed a precious shivalinga underground. When the rice from the cart fell to the ground, the grains automatically turned into gold. When he realised that the land had magical qualities, Ganapathideva started construction of a fort here in the late 12th century CE. The fort was completed by his daughter and next ruler Rani Rudrama Devi who made this place the new capital of the Kakatiya dynasty. Since there was only one small hillock in this area, the place was named ‘Ekasilanagaram’ (city of one stone). The name Ekasilanagaram eventually became ‘Orugallu’, again meaning one stone, and finally transformed into Warangal.

During the reign of the next ruler of the Kakatiya dynasty, Prataparudra II, the area underwent major development but also faced numerous sieges from the Delhi Sultanate. Alauddin Khilji attacked this fort several times but failed to take it down, settling for a yearly compensation from Prataparudra. When Prataparudra deliberately missed paying the compensation a few times, the Sultanate’s army returned but their sieges failed. In 1324, it was Muhammed-bin-Tuglaq who finally managed to turn the Kakatiyan military general Seetapati against his own kingdom. Seetapati opened a gate of the Warangal Fort through which the army of the Sultanate entered and conquered the fort. Prataparudra was taken prisoner but committed suicide on the way to Delhi. After being ruled by the Sultanate for a considerable period of time, Warangal came under the rule of the Qutub Shahi dynasty that reigned from Golconda Fort. Later, the region was part of the erstwhile state of Hyderabad, which was ruled by the Nizams.

The ancient façade of the Thousand Pillar Temple

Lasya Nadimpally

Orientation

There are two suburban areas next to the main city of Warangal that act as its arteries. Kazipet, which is right before Warangal, has the Kazipet Junction railway station, which is one of the most important stations of the Indian Railways and connects north India to south India. Beyond Kazipet is Hanmakonda, which has the famous Thousand Pillar Temple and several educational institutions such as the Kakatiya University and National Institute of Technology. Next is the city of Warangal, which is the headquarters of the Warangal District.

One of the main roads in the city of Warangal is the MG Road which has a small shopping mall, various hotels and restaurants. Other roads lead to adjoining areas and the city branch out from MG Road itself. Due to its student population, Hanmakonda has various shopping malls, restaurants, hotels and eating joints. The Haritha Hanmakonda hotel run by Telangana Tourism is also located here. Both Hanmakonda and Warangal have bus stations which ply buses to surrounding areas and other parts of the state. Within the tri-cities of Warangal, Hanmakonda and Kazipet, auto rickshaws and cabs are preferred modes of transport.

Things to See & Do

The amount you can learn about Kakatiyan history and architecture when you’re in Warangal is simply overwhelming. The city itself has two sites protected by the Archaeological Survey of India – the Thousand Pillar Temple and Warangal Fort – and a few other important temples and lakes.

Warangal Fort

Located in the Mathwada area of Warangal, the fort is around 12km away from the centre of the city. Although you may pass by the Thousand Pillar Temple even before getting to Warangal, we’d suggest visiting the fort first if your itinerary permits. The exact area over which the fort is spread out is unclear due to human interference within the fort’s outer boundary walls. The exact date of its construction is also unclear. However, it is said that the fort, in its present form, was commissioned by Ganapathideva and the construction was completed by Rani Rudramadevi in the early 13th century CE. It is believed that originally, this sprawling complex contained a total of seven forts within its area, amongst which were raati kota (stone fort), matti kota (sand fort), neeti kota (water fort), ituka kota (brick fort), kanchu kota (brass fort) and kampa kota (fenced fort). Over the years, only the raati kota and matti kota have survived. About 360 wells and 360 temples were originally built for the people who lived in the fort’s premises, although most of them cannot be seen now.

View of the imposing ramparts of Warangal Fort

Saurabh Chatterjee

There are several places to see within the fortifications – the central remains of Swayambhu Devalayam (temple), Khush Mahal, Ekasila hill and a few wells such as the Akka Chellela baavi (well of sisters), Kodi Pinjala baavi and Sringara baavi where Rani Rudramadevi used to bathe. The Ekasila hill – single stone – is what gave Warangal its name. During the Kakatiyan period, a military general would sit atop the hill to keep an eye out for intruders and invaders. The Swayambhu Devalayamu now forms the most important part of Warangal Fort. Four Kakatiya kirti toranams (arches of victory), each 40ft high and assembled using 13 parts of granite each, stand at the four cardinal directions along the perimeter of the fort. This area has several water channels and shivalingas. The floor plan of the temple’s remains, which include the main mandapam, Kalyana mandapam and the swayambhu shivalinga, indicate the use of the Kakatiyan style of temple architecture. Three different types of stone – red stone, black granite and grainy black granite – were used in the construction of this temple. A sound and light show is held here every evening. The show takes visitors through the history of the Kakatiya dynasty and fort.

Adjacent to the temple complex is the imposing structure of Khush Mahal. The mahal was built by the Delhi Sultanate in honour of Sitabh Khan (earlier known as Seetapati, the Kakatiyan military general) who helped them capture Warangal Fort. The mahal is also known as Sitabh Khan Mahal. The building is now used by the ASI as a museum to showcase statues of gods and cannon balls that were found in the fort area. The view of the surrounding fortifications from the top of Khush Mahal are fantastic.

Location Mathwada, take Narsapet Road from Warangal Entry ₹5

TIP Guides aren’t readily available here. You have to reach the fort and call them up from the entry point. This is the same with various other sites in and around Warangal

Thousand Pillar Temple

As evident from its name, the Thousand Pillar Temple in Hanmakonda literally has a thousand beautifully carved pillars placed in geometrically planned positions in its main mandapam and Kalyana Mandapa. There is a foundation stone at the entrance to the temple, which talks about the temple’s history in the ancient language of Pali. The construction of the temple began in 1048 CE and ended in 1163 CE during the rule of Rudradeva. The architect of this magnificent temple was Gaggalaiah. The main sanctum in the mandapam contains shrines for Surya, Vishnu and Shiva. However, the statues of Surya and Vishnu, which were made of gold, were supposedly stolen. The only thing remaining is the shivalinga.

Intricate carvings on a pillar

The temple here is called the Rudreswaralayam, named after the king who commissioned it. Interestingly, the Thousand Pillar Temple has no sikhara or dhwajasthamba. The Nandi (bull) here is carved out of a single stone and has many ornaments adorning it as well, which have all been expertly sculpted from the stone. The next structure, Kalyana Mandapa, has been shut to the public since 2005 due to conservation work that is being carried out by the ASI. The mandapam is supposed to open in 2016. There is also a small 60ft-deep well in the temple complex.

Photography ₹25

TIP Ask the guard at the entry gate for a guide. The guides can tell you reams about the architecture

Bhadrakali Temple

Located in between Hanmakonda and Warangal, the Bhadrakali Temples is one of the oldest of its kind in India. It was built by Chalukya king Pulakesin II in 625 CE. The temple, which sits on a slight elevation, lies next to the beautiful Bhadrakali Lake, which was commissioned much later by Ganpathideva of the Kakatiya dynasty. On your way up to the main temple, you will pass a shrine dedicated to Sai Baba on your right and several small shops on your left. The Bhadrakali Lake can be clearly seen from the main temple premises. There are several small shrines and a statue of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati in the courtyard leading to the temple.

Statues of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, Bhadrakali Temple

The sanctum houses several small shrines each dedicated to different forms of Goddess Laxmi. The inner sanctorum has the yellow deity of Bhadrakali, who unlike her name suggests, wears a pleasant expression on her face. Although the temple has a constant flow of devotees irrespective of the time of day, it manages to preserve its serene and peaceful atmosphere.

Where to Stay

Warangal has a few good hotels and a host of budget accommodation. Since there is a huge influx of visitors to Warangal during the summer holidays and the Shivaratri period, it would be wise to book your hotel rooms in advance.

Hotel Ashoka (Tel: 0870-2578491-94; Tariff: ₹1,600–3,289) in Hanamkonda is amongst the older hotels in Warangal, offering AC rooms, a restaurant, coffee shop and fitness centre. Hotel Ratna (Tel: 2500645-49; Tariff: ₹1,100–2,000) on MG Road is as old as Hotel Ashoka, but is slightly cheaper.

One of the best hotels in Warangal is Hotel Grand Gayathri (Tel: 2505999, Cell: 09703114646, 09866633611; Tariff: ₹2,000–4,000), which offers neatly decorated rooms and a restaurant. It is very close to the railway station. City Grand Hotel (Tel: 2454587-89, 6588777; Tariff: ₹1,450–2,650) on SVP Road has well-appointed rooms with Wi-Fi and a restaurant serving contemporary cuisine.

Sheet metal work at Pembarthi

Nakkalgutta area has several options. Hotel Suprabha (Tel: 2573888, Cell: 07702783333; Tariff: ₹ 2,000–3,400) is a boutique hotel with good food. Hotel Landmark (Tel: 2546331-33; Tariff: ₹1,595- 1,995) on the main road enjoys a good location. It offers a restaurant, coffee shop, bar and Internet. Telengana Tourism’s Haritha Kakatiya Hotel (Tel: 2562236-37, Cell: 09951022203; Tariff: ₹2,104- 3,127) is another decent option. It has a restaurant, bar and gym.

Where to Eat

The Kanishka Coffee Shop at Hotel Ashoka offers decent breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks. Stick to the south Indian fare and you will not be disappointed. If you wish to have dal, rajma and roti, head to the Kadambari Restaurant, which also offers Chinese and Continental. But when in Warangal, do as Orugallus do and eat their traditional cuisine.

Food at Suprabha’s Snowball Restaurant is also quite good and you get the usual multi-cuisine menu. Their Cruise Coffee Shop serves excellent vegetarian food. City Grand’s signature restaurant Sun+Moon serves both vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare.

Among the standalones, Kalinga Dhaba and Haveli near the NIT Gate offer good vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals. Near the NIT Petrol Pump is Seasons Restaurant with good ambience and a great variety. For biryanis, Khursheed in Mandi Bazaar and New Shalimar on MG Road are popular.

All along the main road in Warangal, you find thelas selling mirchi bajjis. These are really spicy, but very tasty. Warangal is famous for its namkeen snack sarvapindi, made of rice flour, onions and chillies. A bit on the salty side, this snack is the perfect thing to carry while on the move.

Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple, Inavolu

AROUND WARANGAL

Pembarthi (64km)

Midway between Hyderabad and Warangal lies the village of Pembarthi, which is famous for its sheet metal work and brassware. You don’t have to make an effort to find this tiny village because once you’re here you will be surrounded by shops selling these items, on either side of the road. Some of them are purely retail outlets while some are shops attached to the homes of the artisans. Many homes here belong to families of artists who have been involved in sheet metal work for generations now.

If the store owners are cooperative, you might get to see the process of making sheet metal work. First, lacquer is heated and poured on a mould of wood. Then, a brass sheet, with a paper design on top, is placed on the mould. Small metallic tools are used to etch out the designs on the sheet of metal. The most prominent works here are the Kakatiya kirti toranam and dhwajasthambam and statues of gods.

Inavolu (23km)

On the Warangal-Khammam Road, right after Reddy’s Colony, is a temple dedicated to Mallikarjuna Swamy (Lord Shiva) built in the Kakatiyan architectural style. There is a Nandi (bull), natya mandapam and a dhwajasthambam and a shivalinga in the inner sanctorum here. Four Kakatiya kirti toranams have been recently constructed on four sides of the temple. Adjacent to the main temple is another shrine dedicated to Brahmarambika Devi. Both these temples are very popular amongst the locals who often make trips here.

Kakatiya Kirti Toranam

Forty feet high and built after assembling about 13 parts of granite, all put together without the use of any adhesive, the Kakatiya kirti toranam (arch of victory) is one of the most defining pieces of the Kakatiyan art and architecture. Four such toranas, considered the original ones, stand on four sides of the Swayambhu Devalayam in the Warangal Fort. Although the rest of the fort, its statues and other structures were ruined by the marauding armies of the Delhi Sultanate, the kiriti toranas survived because of the carvings and the inscriptions on them. The toranas are marked by carvings of necklaces that look like rudrakshas, which are worn by Lord Shiva. The rudrakshas saved the toranas from destruction as they are also used in certain styles of Islamic architecture. Other notable carvings on the kirti toranam include the swans on either side of the arch, depicting the purity of the Kaktiyan rule (swans are regarded as symbols of purity since it is believed that they have the ability of separate water from milk).

Kakatiya Kirti Toranam

Nowadays the kirti toranam is widely used across Telangana – on Pembarthi sheet metal work; replicas of the torana are found at the entrance of many lanes; and the official emblem of the state itself carries the kirti toranam along with the Charminar.

Kakatiyan Temple Architecture

Most temples built by the Kakatiyas across Warangal have similar architecture. Their floor plans, carvings and shivalingas are unique, making them stand out from other south Indian temples. The most famous temples built by the Kakatiyas all have three prominent blocks – the main shrine, the Nandi and the Kalyana mandapam or in some cases a replica of the main shrine. Overall, the temple premises has a starshaped design. Lord Shiva is the resident god in most Kakatiyan temples, though the size of the shivalinga that is worshipped may differ from one place to another. All shivalingas have another small shivalinga-like design etched on them and are flat at the top.

The arch at the entrance to the inner sanctum, which houses the shivalinga, has scenes depicting Hindu mythology carved on it. There is a natya mandapam (pavilion for dance) in front of the inner sanctorum. This pavilion has a beautifully carved stone roof, which is supported by four pillars – one at each corner of the pavilion. The pillars and the roof of the natya mandapam have detailed carvings of scenes from Hindu mythology. The pillars, all made of granite, are intricately etched and have been assembled without the help of any adhesive. Due to the positioning of the natya mandapam right opposite the inner sanctum, the sun’s rays reflect off each of the four pillars and fall on the shivalinga inside, making it visible at any time of the day.

Kakatiyan temple architecture

The Nandi in Kakatiyan temples is quite interesting. Typically large, unlike Nandis elsewhere, the ones in these temples don’t look straight at the god. Instead, they have their ear turned towards the shivalinga, indicating that they are alert to sounds. Further, their legs are also carved in a position in which it looks like they are ready to get up and immediately present themselves in front of the god. Lastly, the Kalyana Mandapam (wedding hall) is situated beyond the Nandi. Its pavilion area tends to be more spacious. Alternately, some temples have a smaller replica of the main mandapa.

The main mandapam is constructed at a considerable elevation, which is achieved by filling sand amidst stone – a precautionary measure against earthquakes. The most common statues, symbols and motifs found in these temples are of lions, elephants, stars (from temple design) and dancing figurines. In fact, the Kakatiya dynasty’s emblem Gajakesari, is a mix of elephant and a lion, which is symbolic of their valour. Interestingly, the shivalinga in most temples derives its name from either the architect of the temple or the king who commissioned the temple construction.