Alampur: A Devotee’s Delight

There are chances that you might not even have heard of Alampur, as most people outside of Telangana haven’t. But let that not deter you from visiting this tiny temple town that is home to some of the most spectacular temples in southern Telangana. Besides, the village is located at a very scenic spot – the confluence of the Tungabhadra and Krishna rivers. With its plethora of temples, it is no surprise that the holy town has been bestowed with the moniker of Dakshin Kashi (Banaras of the south).

ORIENTATION

Most of the temples in Alampur are located within a 2km radius, as are the Haritha Hotel and eateries. You can cover these on foot as well.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

Navabrahma Temples

A temple in the Navabrahma complex

Syed Saad Ahmed

Built by the Badami Chalukya dynasty during the 6th–7th centuries CE, the Navabrahma temples are a group of nine temples dedicated to Shiva. The names of the nine temples are Taraka Brahma, Swarga Brahma, Padma Brahma, Bala Brahma, Garuda Brahma, Kumara Brahma, Arka Brahma, Vira Brahma and Vishwa Brahma. The façades of most of the shrines have elegant carvings that bear testimony to the art and skill of the Chalukyas.

In a small garden next to the temple complex, there is a shrine with statues of serpent deities. The Navabrahma temple complex is located on the banks of the Tungabhadra river. In earlier times it was part of a fortification, whose ramparts can still be seen near the river. Steps have been constructed here which lead down to the river, where swimming and boating are popular activities.

Timings 7.00am–7.00pm; 6.00am–8.00pm (during festivals), Parking Cars ₹20; Motorcycles ₹10

There is an archaeological museum next to the entrance of the temple complex. It has an impressive collection of statues unearthed from excavations around the temples.

Entry Adults ₹5; Children ₹3 Timings 10:30am–1:00pm; 1:30pm – 5:00pm

Jogulamba Temple

Towering above the Navabrahma temple complex, the Jogulamba Temple is one of the fifth amongst the 18 Shaktipeeths in India, which makes it an important pilgrimage destination. The principal deities of the temple are Jogulamba and Balabrahmeshwara. Here, Goddess Jogulamba is seen seated on a corpse with a scorpion, frog and lizard on her head. The deity is a fierce avatar of Goddess Parvathi who grants siddhi (enlightenment) in yoga. The name is derived from Yogula amma, which means ‘mother of yogis’ in Telugu.

It is said that Brahma had performed penance at Alampur for thousands of years. This pleased Lord Shiva, who conferred the powers of creation on him. Hence, the other deity of the temple is Balabrahmeshwara.

Legend has it that a saint known as Rasa Siddha had the power to convert base metal into gold. He was considered a close confidant of the Chalukya king Pulakesi II, who was instrumental in constructing the Navabrahma temples. Some myths claim that the names of the nine temples are actually the names of medicinal herbs posited by Rasa Siddha. According to the saint, if the penance prescribed by tantric texts is performed, mercury oozes from the linga of Balabrahmeshwara, the thighs of Subramanya, the navel of Ganpati, and the mouth of Jogulamba. He further stated that the mercury could be converted into gold using the nine medicinal herbs.

Timings 7.00am–1.00pm; 2.00 – 7.00pm

Papanasham Temple complex

Much less frequented, though no less stunning than the Navabrahma temples is the Papanasham temple complex, about 2km away. The temples, set in an expansive garden, were built roughly at the same time as the Navabrahma temples. The temples vary in shape and size, but are built in a similar architectural style. While many of the temples have intricate carvings in the interiors, the most exquisite is the frieze on the ceiling of the central shrine.

The priest here is a treasure trove of interesting myths and information regarding the temple. While he speaks only halting English, he expounds eloquently in Telugu to an admiring audience.

Sangameshwara Temple

The Sangameshwara Temple was originally built at the confluence (sangam in Telugu) of the Krishna and Tungabhadra rivers. After the Srisailam reservoir threatened to submerge the temple, it was relocated to its present spot – near the Haritha Hotel – in Alampur. The process took up to 10 years, but the structure has been beautifully preserved and reconstructed. Set in a sprawling complex, the temple is replete with exquisite carvings.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Alampur is a small town and the only good place to stay here is Telangana Tourism’s Haritha Hotel (Cell: 09705392100; Tariff: ₹599–998, dorm ₹800) with 17 AC and non-AC rooms. The hotel restaurant serves decent vegetarian south Indian food.

There are few small eateries around the place. But it is better if you stick to your hotel for meals.