1. Shergarh, Kanha National Park Located close to the southern entrance of Kanha National Park
2. Buxa Homestays, Buxa Tiger Reserve
This beautiful reserve in West Bengal is one of a contiguous network of conserved wild spaces that stretch from Bhutan to Assam. At 760 sq km, it is also one of the larger ones. Home to, of course, the tiger but also to the clouded leopard, wild dogs and the pangolin, this is a beautiful land of rolling forests. As tourism in the core area is prohibited here anyway, it’s unaffected by the ongoing tussle over tiger tourism. In fact, villages around the reserve like Lapchakha, Santalabari, Chunavati and others have opened a number of homestays that are cheap and comfortable with the active support of the West Bengal tourism department. TARIFF From Rs 600 for doubles CONTACT The West Bengal Tourism website, westbengaltourism.gov.in, has a detailed list of the homestays including their addresses, contact numbers, number of rooms offered and tariffs.
3. Wildernest Nature Resort, Swapnagandha Valley
Wildernest Nature Resort was conceived in 2004 as a counter move—an effort to block the mining lobby from ravaging this stretch of the Western Ghats. This region on the Goa-Karnataka-Maharashtra border, on the fringe of the Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary, was an important wildlife corridor and the founders wanted to keep it that way. Eight years later, Wildernest is an award-winning establishment that provides everything you could ask of a nature retreat: sylvan surroundings, treks, an impressive array of flora and fauna, appropriately rustic ambience, local ethnic food and a garden bar called Cloud 9 where, in the summers, you should try a local cashew extract called ‘hurrak’. Wildernest (from Rs 5,000, double) and its sister concern Swapnagandha (Rs 5,500, double) are a two-and-a-half hour drive from Margao.CONTACT 0832-3266911, wildernest-goa.com
4. Sundergaon Earth Villa, Sunderbans National Park
This beautiful tourism initiative in the Sunderbans is quite unique. When the village of Bali was devastated by the cyclone Alia three years ago, Help Tourism, who were already running another eco-camp nearby stepped in and helped relocate three affected families to a nearby area and bought up their three destroyed houses. Then they carefully restored the houses to create the Earth Villa, which it runs today in collaboration with Sunderbans Tiger Reserve and the Bali Nature and Wildlife Conservation Society. The proceeds are being used to fund a conservation centre as well as rebuild a destroyed school. TARIFF For Rs 25,000 for three days, families can rent the beautifully restored villa fitted with modern amenities. The traditional layout of the houses has been retained, to give a flavour of rural life in the Sunderbans.CONTACT 033-24550917, helptourism.com
5. Forsyth’s Lodge, Satpura National Park
The core areas of the Satpura National Park may be out of bounds, but an experience of the tiger’s country needn’t be. Forsyth’s Lodge, at the edge of the park, is set in 44 acres of restored mixed forest, and has resident chital, wild boar, jungle cats, mongoose and civets, and is excellent habitat for birds, butterflies and dragonflies. With the beautiful Tawa reservoir in the neighbourhood, a part of the Denwa river available for canoe safaris and the stylish Forsyth’s providing ambience and expertise, this is a very complete wilderness experience. Take it all in by foot, boat, jeep or merely by sitting in the comfortable verandas, watching butterflies in the grass. Forsyth’s Lodge (Rs 12,000 per person per night on twin share, open from October 16 to June 30; 0124-4062480, forsythlodge.com) is 180km/three-and-a-half hours from Bhopal.
6. Wolf Tracking, Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary
We go on about the charismatic tiger but there’s something awfully special about wolves in India, you know? Experts are shaking their heads over the exact lumping of species, but our Himalayan wolf, classified as a subspecies of Canis lupus, is the most ancient of its kind, with a lineage going back 800,000 years. Spiti Ecosphere carries out a range of activities in the Spiti region, and among their most thrilling operations is a tour to track this rare canid. So set out to spot the shanku in the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary, learn about its complex, strained relationship with the local communities and pitch in to conserve this critically endangered species. Spiti Ecosphere (01906-222652, spitiecosphere.com) runs flexible, customisable tours to track the Himalayan wolf. Rates are approx. Rs 2,000 a day but vary according to itinerary and group size.
7. Nanda Devi Homestays, Nanda Devi National Park
Ecologically sustainable wildlife tourism is best done by local communities and the homestays run by Mountain Shepherds in the villages of Lata and Tolma in the Dhauli Ganga valley in Garhwal are one of the best. Abutting the wild and pristine Nanda Devi National Park, Mountain Shepherds is an offshoot of the Nanda Devi Campaign for cultural survival and livelihoods spearheaded by the Marcha Bhotia community of this valley. You stay in small but comfortable traditional village homes, and enjoy some delicious local cuisine prepared by your hosts. The organisation even arranges for treks in the deodar and birch forests of the national park with local guides who know the local flora and fauna like the back of their hands. TARIFF The homestays come for Rs 800 per day for a double, inclusive of all meals. Trekking charges are extra. CONTACT Sunil Kainthola, 9719316777, [email protected], mountainshepherds.com
8. Muddyboots, Western Ghats
Some of the most beautiful nature and wildlife spots also sometimes seem inaccessible. Muddy Boots, launched in 2009, is a travel company with a focus on opening up offbeat adventure trails in northern Kerala, Coorg and the Nilgiris. Among their various hiking and cycling trails is a trek to Chembra, Wayanad’s highest peak at 2,100m. The walk takes you through a combination of scenic rainforest, shola forest and grasslands before giving way to breathtaking views at the top. Or you could choose a six-hour walking safari through the buffer zone of the sheltered Tholpetti Wildlife Sanctuary, adjoining Nagarhole National Park where you can expect to see elephants, deer, bison, wild dogs, a rich variety of birds, and maybe even tiger or leopard if it’s your lucky day. Vacations range from one day to three weeks and more, with accommodation offered in local homestays. Muddy Boots also has its own—Pranavam—set in 150 acres of spice and coffee plantations in Wayanad (pranavamhomestays.com). COSTfrom Rs 1,250 onwards per person CONTACT 9544201249, muddyboots.in
9. Elephant Valley, Palani Hills
When Elephant Valley opened in 2003, it was supposed to be an agricultural project—about growing organic vegetables, reviving an abandoned coffee estate, preserving traditional methods of farming. Then people came to look and wanted to stay a bit. So they built a cottage. And then another one. And now there are 24. The rooms, each of them unique, are gorgeous structures, constructed from local material and salvaged doors and windows. Stay in the latest ‘Kerala House’ or in Gangavar, by the river. For lookout, you have the scenic Western Ghats and a centuries-old elephant migration route. Go trekking or horse riding in the 100-acre property, and eat their delicious, fresh-off-the-farm meals. Elephant Valley (from Rs 3,300;elephantvalleyhotel.com) in Tamil Nadu’s Palani Hills, is 22km from Kodaikanal and 120km/3hrs from Madurai by road.
10. Rainforest Retreat, Mojo Plantation, Coorg
Every single thing about Rainforest Retreat is about being harmoniously in line with nature. Scientists Sujata and Anurag Goel wanted to develop sustainable methods of agriculture, conduct research and create a model sustainable farm. They did all that, set up an NGO called WAPRED and added a wonderful self-sustaining eco-lodge to cater to environmentally conscious travellers. So set in the middle of an organic spice plantation are these guesthouses, where you shouldn’t expect electricity, phones or television. What you do get though is a ringside view of the Western Ghats—this is one of the finest birding and trekking spots in the belt. Your hot water is solar heated, your food cooked with gobar gas—you’ll find it all very natural. Rainforest Retreat (from Rs 2,000, double; 08272-265638/6,rainforestours.com) is 10km from Madikeri town in Kodagu, Karnataka.
11. Namdapha Jungle Eco Camp, Namdapha National Park
The enchanting Namdapha National Park is one of the few rainforests in the country, located in Arunachal Pradesh. A biodiversity hotspot, its cloud forests and animals like the red giant flying squirrel are famous, drawing hundreds of wildlife enthusiasts every year. SEACOW or the Society for Environment Awareness and Conservation of Wildlife, an NGO that has been doing conservation work as well as pursuing eco-tourism here for a decade now, organises nature treks in the forest under the moniker of Namdapha Tours and Treks. Recently it has set up an eco-camp called the Namdapha Jungle Eco Camp beside the Nao Dehing river just outside the park. It has two separate cottages, complete with comfortable toilets and electricity backup, as well as areas for tented accommodation. It’s a perfect base from which to explore the forest.TARIFF Rs 2,000 for doubles inclusive of meals CONTACT Phupla Singpho, 9436228763, [email protected]
12. Mary Budden Estate, Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary
Luxury and eco-friendly don’t naturally reside in the same sentence, unless you’re talking about the Mary Budden Estate. That’s not all. The ‘boutique homestay’ is among the few private properties that have the privilege of occupying space within the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. Inhabiting five acres of forested slopes, the estate comprises two country-style, stone-and-timber cottages with rooms and suites so gorgeous, and operations so flawless, it’s hard to believe that the entire system is solely reliant on solar energy and rainwater harvesting. Stay in and you’ll be rewarded with fabulous food (perhaps the biggest luxury in a place this remote), indulgent service, cosy fireplaces and beautiful rooms with beautiful views. Venture out and the forest offers scenic walks, 200 species of birds, the chance to spot goral, musk deer, wild boar, langur and even a leopard or black bear if you’re lucky… comfort nature holidays don’t get much better. TARIFF Rs 17,000 doubles, Rs 45,000 for entire Mary Budden cottage, Rs 60,000 for entire Rhododendron cottage; open September to June CONTACT 9810185101,marybuddenestate.in
13. Sarai At Toria, Panna National Park
If nothing else, come here for the view. Conservation biologist, Raghu Chundawat, and conservation writer and filmmaker, Joanna Van Gruisen, opened the Sarai two years ago. And what a spot they chose—nine acres of virgin countryside on the banks of the unspoiled Ken river, at the edge of Panna National Park. Environment and social responsibility to the nearby village lie at the heart of this project: the six thatch-roofed cottages employ local materials such as mud, stone, bamboo, grass and lime, solar power for electricity and burnable waste for heating water. There’s no air-conditioning or heating—the mud walls provide adequate insulation. Don’t let the pastoral exterior deceive you, though. Within, you’ll find comfortable contemporary interiors with attached modern bathrooms. The neighbouring patch of forest is home to a variety of birds and reptiles, jungle cats, nilgai and foxes. TARIFF Rs 13,750 doubles CONTACT 9752270337, saraiattoria.com
14. Samrakshan Eco Tours, Meghalaya
As a base to explore the magical forests of Balpakram National Park, the Baghmara Reserve Forest and the Siju Wildlife Sanctuary, you couldn’t do better than use the services of Samrakshan Eco Tours. This conservation group runs two eco-camps, one in Siju and the other at Gongrot. With their twin focus on conservation and community development, they are best suited to be your guide to this area. Samrakshan arranges a range of wildlife travel ranging from family holidays to trekking, birding and butterfly tours. TARIFF Siju Eco Camp has tented accommodation (Rs 450 for doubles) as well as rooms (Rs 400 for doubles). You could also stay in a traditional tree house or borang for Rs 1,500. At Gongrot, you can stay in tents (`450 doubles) or in rooms (Rs 400 doubles). Meals and eco-tours extra. CONTACT Yaranjit Deka, 9402396570, samrakshan.org
15. Quest For The Snow Leopard, Hemis National Park
Shan, they call it in Ladakh — the rare, elusive, beautiful snow leopard (Panthera uncia), which is the all-consuming focus of the Snow Leopard Conservancy-India Trust (SLC-IT). The Conservancy works on several fronts: from easing the conflicts between the high-altitude cat and the local villagers, recording sightings, monitoring numbers, creating awareness to developing homestays in Ladakh that benefit both the eco-tourist as well local communities. Join a 10-day ‘Quest for the Snow Leopard’, which takes you into Hemis National Park. Stay in camps and homestays, see migratory mountain birds, the blue sheep, the urial, the Tibetan argali, maybe the wolf; learn about camera traps and… perhaps see the snow leopard. TARIFF$120 per person per day CONTACT 01982-257953, snowleopardconservancy.org
accommodation in the Sunderbans
Eco tours in Meghalaya
Hemis National Park