1. Zanskar Photo Tour It’s time to catch the snowmelt on your SLR as Ladakh warms up to
2. Kalarickal Plantation Bungalow
Should the breeze be nippy enough, we are told, the sweet smell of cardamom will waft in from the plantation that surrounds the Kalarickal Heritage Plantation Bungalow. The nearly century-old bungalow is set off the Thekkady-Munnar highway, quite the big house hereabouts and wearing its history well — construction began in 1918 and, at one time, it was the village office from which the grandfather of the present owner, Dr Mathew, dispensed advice. Six generations of local families have served the estate and they now act as guides through the plantation (and its neighbouring villages) — pepper and cardamom grow on its plains, coffee can be found on uphill treks. Indeed, at one time, Kalarickal was a national landmark in the planter universe. Things have changed, of course, and the teak roof additions, smart bathrooms and Dr Mathew’s greenhouse of exotic anthuriums are among them. Tariff Rs 3,250 (classic rooms), Rs 4,000 (premium rooms) Contact: mahindrahomestays.com.
3. Spiti Dance Festival
High Himalayan passes let the rest of India into Spiti for just a couple of months as summer melts the snow and roads emerge again. On the other side is the Tibetan border. Little wonder that the cultural practices of this valley remain largely unknown to outsiders. In recent decades, as the younger generations look to move out into the world, the songs and dances associated with the festivals and community traditions of this Himachali valley are vanishing except in a few elders’ memories. Spiti Ecosphere, which works to support cultural revival and enrich the local economy through developing low-impact livelihoods, is arranging a trip that highlights the musical heritage of the region. Heading out from Manali, the eco-tourists who sign up will come over the Rohtang and Kunzum passes, traversing the valleys of the Chandra, Spiti and Pin rivers. The highlights of the tour are four regional dance performances. Contact: spitiecosphere.com
4. Lake Forest Hotel
If Yercaud hasn’t quite found its place on Tamil Nadu’s hilltops, it’s because there haven’t been all that many great places to stay in it. The Lake Forest Hotel may be the start of good things to come. The homestead is part of the East Lynne Farm Coffee Estate, built in the early 1800s by Henrietta Charlotte Rosario. The coffee plantation overlooks Yercaud’s modest lake. The old-fashioned woodsy interiors have been sensibly kept that way. Inside, amiable antiques of indeterminate origin are used abundantly to charming effect. Activities include yoga, trekking, birdwatching and local sightseeing, and the kids’ play area comes with a perennially popular trampoline. A pleasant address from which to explore Yercaud’s diffident beauty, evident all year round in balmy weather that never gets extreme. Tariff From Rs 4,000 doubles Contact: 04281-223217, 9444001438, yercaud.indecohotels.com
5. Mana Village
There are many charms to Mana, and at least a couple of them are purely notional. This is the last village this side of the Indo-Tibet border but, more interestingly, it’s a part-time village that only comes to life in the summer. Just 3km from the famous Badrinath shrine, Mana surges and recedes in sync with the pilgrim centre, for the Bhot community moves to lower reaches in the winter. However, the other reasons to visit this high-altitude hamlet (11,220ft) are all worthwhile. For one, situated as it is on the confluence of the Saraswati and Alaknanda rivers, it is extremely pretty. For another, it is steeped in Puranic and Vedic lore, supplying you with a cave that Vyasa is supposed to have written in. Apart from all its rustic cosiness, it also manages to pack in quality arts and crafts. Location: Mana is 330km/5.5hrs by road from Dehradun Accommodation: At village homestays or guesthouses (Rs 400 for doubles, inclusive of meals) Contact: Hira Singh Parmar (9458102093), exploreruralindia.org
6. Tons Camp
First to run the river in 1995, adventure outfit Himalayan River Runners are understandably territorial about the Tons. A permanent fixture on their summer calendar, the Tons Camp continues to be a popular multi-activity trip, combining rafting, trekking, rappelling and swimming. The base camp, a comfortable 160km from Shimla or 140km from Mussoorie, is set in a thicket of pines by the river, 4,000ft above sea level. And the milky waters — a joy to ride after the snowmelt — swell with a staggering number and volume (up to grade five) of rapids. Open to anyone willing to spare at least 2N/3D between May 7 and June 30, the itinerary is flexible and may include other destinations in Western Garhwal or Himachal Pradesh. Cost From Rs 7,810, inclusive of camping, rafting and meals Contact 011-26852602,hrrindia.com
7. Aamod
Swarming Shimla in the summer — been there, done that? Stop 13km short, then, and amuse yourself at Aamod in sweet and sleepy Shoghi. Cottages sit on natural clearings on the slopes — not a single tree was uprooted to make room for this resort. Choose a private place or a cluster to be close to friends; but make sure you sit out in solitude under the oaks and pines at dawn, when the birds sing the sun up from bed. You could hide away for a weekend in your pretty pine cabin with a DVD, but that’s rather a waste when you can go forth among flora and fauna, attend a yoga workshop or a wine tasting, star-gaze or go on a night trek. On the other hand, those who can’t sit still can avoid scaring the wildlife by working off the fidgets with a Burma bridge, Flying Fox or monkey crawl, and then calming down in the bamboo rooms of spa Sublime. Meals boast of a well-appointed ‘colonial hangover’ at the Colonial; but there’s also Himachali fare and restaurant-style Indian. Tariff From Rs 15,000 (2N/3D for two persons)/Rs 22,000 (2N/3D for four persons) Contact 0177-6532020, 9212114441, aamod.in
8. Biksthang
For a classic off-the-beaten-track experience, there’s nothing quite like the vast, beautiful spaces of Biksthang in West Sikkim. This small district is nestled in the mountains at a little over 4,000ft above sea level, and its eponymous town is famous for its pristine surroundings and views of the Himalaya. Nearby attractions include Pelling, a quiet village famous for the Pemayangtse gompa and sublime views of the Kangchendzonga, and the pretty village of Yuksom. Location 120km/5–6hrs from Gangtok Accommodation Atmospheric options include the Bliss Resort (9434028008), which offers cottages apart from rooms. Tour Operator Greenwheels (9733300414, 9800102599) can arrange tours based around culture, religion and adventure as well as customise tours for you.
9. Elephant Valley
Elephant Valley is the sort of old favourite that slyly charms us into returning by promising more of what we liked in the first place. The eco-lodge that defies Kodaikanal’s over-exploited charms by falling a good 22km short of the hill station has now expanded to add a pair of new cottages. Its 100-odd acres, we are happy to report, remain marvellously expansive, and it continues to be difficult not to gush over the in-house stream and waterfalls. The new accommodation is rather plainly named Jasmine 1 and Jasmine 2 (their suite goes by the evocative name of Tectona, a genus of teak from the Southeast Asian tropics). Nevertheless, the interiors of both stone-tile-and-wood cottages neither overdo their classy, traditional aesthetic nor underplay their comfort. Outside, there are largish verandas and a private garden, civilised Edens that mimic the reserve forest by the edge of which thrives Elephant Valley. In this, the dry season, look out for elephants, wild boar and bison. Tariff Rs 4,700 on double occupancy Contact 0413-2655751, elephantvalleyhotel.com.
10. Wild Western Ghats
Lucky wildlife enthusiasts of the Western Ghats! Ficus Wildlife & Natural History Tours offer over a dozen extended weekend trips (3N/4D) just for you. This month has four itineraries, for Kabini, Top Slip, BR Hills and Bandipur. You might be too late to sign up for Kabini (May 6-8), but take heart if you’re near Coimbatore — that’s where the Top Slip trip, next up, sets out from in search of the gaur, tiger and wild elephants to be found in the Annamalai Hills. Bangaloreans might find BR Hills and Bandipur more convenient, the first later in May and the second in early June. The Biligiri Rangaswamy Wildlife Sanctuary, set at the juncture of the Eastern Ghats of the Nilgiris, reflects the Western Ghats’ biodiversity too — its deciduous and evergreen forest canopies shelter over 200 species of birds, besides elephants, tigers, leopards, sloth bears and other small mammals. Bandipur, sharing a similar habitat, boasts regular tiger sightings. Doesn’t fit your deadlines? Check about a flexible-departure programme with dedicated guides. Contact 9941918519, 9383114321,ficuswildlife.net.
11. Aaranyya Lodge
Wild about comfort and family time, with an invigorating dollop of adventure thrown in? Flee the northern plains and make your base at Shivpuri, above India’s rafting capital, Rishikesh. In these beautiful hills, Mercury Himalayan Explorations’ new lodge – Aaranyya, By the Ganges–puts you up in 15 air-conditioned rooms fronting the Bhagirathi Forest Range along the sparkling river. Rafts and ropes wait for you to pit your skills against the river and rocks. More sedate activities, such as driving down to watch the famous Ganga aarti in Haridwar or playing on the beach with a picnic lunch, are also on offer for younger and older clients, especially, as well as treks of short and long duration. Still not enough for you? A full-fledged spa is due to open soon, too. Tariff Rs 3,000–4,500 for doubles, inclusive of breakfast and a short trek. Lunch (Rs 350 per person), dinner (Rs 450) and high tea (Rs 150) are also served. Charges for rafting, rock climbing and rappelling, ropes courses, beach camp and day-long treks are extra (from Rs 250 per person). Contact 01378-262615, 011-23340033,himalayanadventure.com.
12. Rafting in Pin and Spiti
Thirteen days. Hundred kilometres. Big, burly rapids. It’s adventure outfit Aquaterra’s annual pilgrimage to the twin valleys of Spiti and Pin in Himachal Pradesh. Breaking in the rapids at Poh and hurtling down to Tabo and to the Sumdo Bridge, near the confluence of the Spiti and Pare Chu rivers, this has the makings of a great rush. Punctuating the itinerary are fossil-hunting excursions, visits to little-visited Buddhist gompas and halts at rustic homestays in a dramatic, stunningly stark region wedged between Tibet and Ladakh. The landscape mirrors the magic of neighbouring Leh, Nubra and Zanskar valleys. Snowbound most of the year, the wild and remote setting only makes the challenge greater — provoking you to tame the eye before you tame the testy waters. Departure June 19–July 1 Cost Rs 60,824, all inclusive, ex-Delhi Contact 011-29212641, aquaterra.in.
13. Kotahgiri Habba
It has fewer colonial throwbacks and places to stay, a smaller marketplace, and is cleaner and less explored. Consider heading to Kotagiri, the oldest and smallest of the three hill towns in the Nilgiris, discovered by John Sullivan. Now, Black Swan, a Pune-based tour operator that likes to connect visitors to local communities, invites the like-minded to the Kotagiri Habba (festival) scheduled for May 6–8. They have chosen well. Kotagiri (‘the hill of the Kota tribes’) is also where you are likely to see the Badagas, among the oldest settlers in the region, in their elegant traditional attire. Local artists, naturalists and photographers will come together for exhibitions, classes and birdwatching. There’ll also be tribal music and dance, Badaga food and a guided tour of tea manufacturing. Not to mention untouristy sightseeing. Cost Rs 3,200 for the activities, meals and local transport; accommodation from Rs 600 Contact Renjana (9900285305), Shishir (9822132092), black-swan.in.
14. Behdienkhlam Festival
Among the traditional festivals celebrated by the Khasis in Meghalaya, Behdienkhlam, held in Jowai town, is probably the most raucous. This annual event, taking place this year on July 6, 7 and 8, is believed to ‘beh’ (chase away) ‘khlam’ (illness) with ‘tabut’ (elaborately decorated wooden totems). Each neighbourhood prepares a tabut (there’s a competition for the most impressive one), which is immersed in a small lake. There are many traditional dances and rituals to be observed (including an ioh ktieh or mud bath) and local food and drink
to be enjoyed, before ending it all with datlawakora, a form of football played barefoot with a wooden ball in an extremely muddy field. Where Jowai is 65km/2–4hrs from Shillong. Accommodation Options in Jowai are limited but include the modest CTC Orchid Inn near the beautiful Thadlaskein lake, 6km from town (from Rs 840; 9856003662, 9863600078, megtourism.gov.in). Or stay in Shillong and make a day-trip to Jowai.
15. Ganga-Ho
Known around the country for offering heritage properties at affordable prices, the Neemrana group is now offering something brand new. Literally. Ganga-Ho — part of their recent Noble Homes concept that allows you to ‘step into a stylish, running home and call it your own’ — is an ultra-modern, newly built property occupying a sheltered spot near the Ganga, barely 3km from Rishikesh. Rented out only as a complete unit, the property integrates three chic bedrooms with attached bathrooms and verandas that all open out on to an impressively lengthy pool overlooking the Ganga. Enjoy your meals on an al fresco terrace above the river or descend the steps from the house on to a private ‘beach’. Tariff From Rs 30,000 per day for the entire property; a la carte meals from Rs 500 per head. Contact 011-46661666
16. Te Aroha
This new property, set in Dhanachuli near Mukteshwar in Kumaon, is really a converted summer home. Te Aroha sits on a terraced hillside with its sunshiney-yellow tin roof a beacon against the dark green of cedar and oak. The violet vistas of snowy peaks fronted by orchards and rhododendron in bloom are a spectacular sight in summer. The massive glass windows take advantage of this, even as antique furniture urges you to make yourself at home in the ten luxurious rooms. You can get a trail map to suit your pace, hike out under the wings of the Himalayan griffon and shikra and request a picnic lunch in the apple orchards for later. If you miss the chatter of humans, Nainital isn’t far away. We’re guessing, though, that you’d rather stay in. Especially as Te Aroha doesn’t mind if you BYOB. Tariff Rs 8,000–13,100 (bed and breakfast only); Rs 9,500–16,150 (with all meals) Contact 8130776800, tearoha.in.
17. Garden Valley View
From boating on the eponymous Lake Naini to hiking to China Peak, or simply enjoying a relaxing weekend break — for many, Nainital is one summer holiday destination that never goes out of style. For a quiet, homey vacation that also promises to be gentle on the wallet, check into Garden Valley View, located about 15 kilometres outside the town. Be warned, though: if you’re looking for high luxury, you’re knocking on the wrong door. A 50-year-old stone-and-wood village house, hidden by pine and oak trees, Garden Valley’s charm lies in the simple things: solitude and greenery, swimming in the nearby stream, fresh food from vegetables grown organically on the property’s six acres, bird-watching, plucking plums and peaches from the orchards. It also gets a big nod from us for being pet-friendly. There are rooms, suites and independent cottages available, so whether you’re looking for alone time or downtime with friends and family, you’re likely to find it here. Tariff from Rs 2,200 per person. Includes breakfast and dinner. Contact 05942-220071, garden valleyresort.com.
18. Colonel’s Retreat
The salubrious Mavady Hills, at an altitude of 1,000 ft, are at the dead centre of the rectangle that frames Kerala’s star tourist attractions: Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady and Alleppey. Set in a 15-acre plantation, the Colonel’s Retreat is the spacious bungalow of a retired army colonel, Jose Vallikappan. The colonel’s youngest brother owns the more well-known Vanilla County; Colonel’s Retreat opened to take care of the overflow from thereabouts. Much of the fruits and vegetables you will have here are grown on the plantation, as is the coffee. A natural spring is the source of drinking water. The two rooms have balconies with densely green views and the upper reaches of the Meenachil river can be seen from the property. If you aren’t already a trekker, swimmer, adventurer, nature lover, eco-tourist, honeymooner, writer or dreamer, Colonel’s Retreat promises to make you one. Tariff Rs 7,000 Contact 0482-2280621, 8943125684, colonelretreat.com.
19. The Machan
If ever your childhood fantasy was to live in a tree house, here’s your chance to fulfil it. Just outside well-touristed Lonavala lies the thriving biological hotspot of Jambulne, in the Western Ghats. Against this backdrop is the Machan, a tiny jewel of a place that’s big on charm. For starters, it’s actually built atop trees. Glass-walled rooms afford breathtaking views of tropical forests, hills and valleys. Summertime sees wild flowers in bloom; barking deer are not an uncommon sight. The multi-level structure (designed to withstand earthquakes and high-speed winds, we’re told) incorporates three rooms that sleep six, two bathrooms, a large dining and sitting area as well as a kitchenette. While there are luxury tents (also erected on high machans) on offer, we recommend the Machan itself, especially if you’re looking for a private family getaway. Tariff From Rs 10,000 for two (tents), Rs 25,000 for six (Machan) Contact 8080877420, themachan.com.
20. Basic Halli
This weekend camping getaway is designed to be easy on the environment, your conscience and even your wallet. The camp, just outside Bangalore, consists of 11 thatched bamboo huts. There’s no electricity inside; each hut gets a rechargeable LED lantern. Basic bedding is offered, or bring your own sleeping bag for a discount. Toilets are the only conventional built facility, but hot water depends on the electricity supply. Meals are traditional vegetarian, and guests serve themselves and wash up their own plates. There’s no bottled water, but you’re free to bring your own bottles (yes, booze too). You can go cycling or trekking, join a birdwatching walk, play gilli-danda or kho-kho, or stare at the stars from the massive 500 sq ft hammock. On weekends, there are often treasure hunts with a day’s free stay as prize. What’s more, kids come free until June 15. Tariff Rs 1,500 for two, all inclusive Contact 9886781587, 9620346362, sites.google.com/site/gotobasichalli/
Text: Janice Pariat, Lalitha Sridhar, Manidipa Mandal, Mridula Gandhi, Sheetal Vyas, Soity Banerjee
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