Fast facts
State: Goa
Distance: 550 km S of Mumbai
When to go: The best time is, of course, winter but it’s also the most expensive season and the busiest with tourists descending in huge numbers on Goa’s beaches. The monsoon is another option for those who like to holiday in the rains.
Tourist Office: Goa Tourism Development Corp Ltd 2nd Floor, Paryatak Bhawan, Patto, Panjim, Goa
Tel: 0832-2438866/ 2438002-03
Email: [email protected]
website: goa-tourism.com
STD code: 0832

Getting there
Air Nearest airport: Dabolim Airport (60 km/11/4 hrs)
Rail Nearest railhead: Pernem Station (22 km/1/2 hr)
Route by Road from Mumbai: All the way down NH17 to Pernem via Chiplun, Lanja, Nandgaon and Sawantwadi. State road to Arambol via Corgao

Arambol beach, a paradise for hippies throughout the ‘80s, is today a favourite with European ravers and backpackers who come here because it’s one of those places where you can get by fairly well on very little money. The new face of Arambol fits in with what they are looking for: alternative food, yoga and meditation. It also explains the innumerable Tai Chi, body painting and Learn yoga signs that crowd the lanes leading through Arambol village to the beach. It certainly isn’t the unspoilt paradise that it once was but in Arambol’s quieter parts, you’ll find the echoes of a secluded beach.

You can reach Arambol either from Pernem in the east, or from the south via Morjim and Mandrem. Either way, you’ll reach Arambol Junction, where three roads meet (the third leads north to Tiracol). The post office, petrol pump, bus stop and Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church are clustered around the junction. The main Arambol Road leads west from here, running the length of the village, before it dwindles into a few footpaths. Arambol is not safe for swimming as the rocks create an unpredictable undertow. There are no lifeguards here, so it’s best not to venture in more than waist-deep. At Keri Beach, stay well away from the Tiracol River, as it has a particularly strong undertow.

Things to see and do
Arambol Beach has shacks and a few stalls selling sarongs and assorted stuff, and you can spend your time browsing through the items on sale. Climb up Waghcolomb Hill for the best possible views of the sea.  

Paliem Beach and Lake
Arambol’s most wonderful feature is the tiny Paliem Beach at the foot of the Waghcolomb Hill. Here, there’s a small freshwater lake barely 200 m from the sea, fed by springs, at the base of the surrounding hillsides. A dip here after bathing in the sea is recommended to wash off the salt. Contrary to the claims of some foreign guidebooks on Goa, there are no ‘hot’ springs feeding the lake.

Watersports and Paragliding
Apart from dolphin-spotting trips, which are offered by nearly every outfit here, there’s also a Surf Club (surfclubgoa.com) on the beach that offers windsurfing, boogie boards, kite-surfing and sand-speed sailing – this is for true adventure freaks as the board can hit 30 kmph on water. Kite Club Goa (kiteclubnorthgoa.com) is another operator here that offers courses on kite surfing, and also rents out the requisite gear. In season, paragliding takes place from the top of Waghcolomb Hill over the lake.

Keri Beach
If you fancy a walk, then head out beyond the lake. A 10-km-long path from Arambol meanders over the hillside, eventually ending at the casuarina-fringed Keri Beach. At low tide, you can even weave your way here between beachside rocks. There is nothing at Keri except for a few shacks. Nevertheless, if you wish to spend time here, there are guest houses in Keri village. This is Goa’s northernmost beach, bounded by the Tiracol river to the north. Few people ever come here, save for the occasional Sunday picnicking crowd, so Keri can be your private realm.

Tiracol Fort
North of Arambol, the road ends at the Keri-Tiracol ferry point. On the opposite shore is Goa’s north-ernmost outpost, Tiracol Fort. It was captured by the Portuguese from the Bhonsales of Sawantwadi in 1746, during the Novas Conquistas. Tiracol was and even now remains a cheeky Goan toe-hold in Maharashtra. Till recently, the fort functioned as a hotel. The chapel of St Anthony, inside the fort, is open only when guided tours arrive. But the ramparts afford a spectacular view of the river and the sea.

Nightlife
Arambol has quite a happening nightlife. Loekie Café, located on the road to the beach, is a cocktail bar that has jam sessions twice a week, Indian classical music and dance twice a week, a movie once a week and a chess tournament every month. Mango Tree is a beachside shack next to the road that has jam sessions on the days Loekie’s doesn’t. It has a better location and views than Loekie too. Babylon is a good place to drink till the wee hours.

Where to stay
Most of Arambol’s seaside hotels are on the north side of the beach, along the path to Paliem. As the road to Arambol nears the beach, it becomes narrow. Most places here are seasonal. Call ahead.

Famafa (Tel: 0832-2242516; Tariff: INR 800-3,000; famafaarambolgoa.com) is located in an ugly concrete building, but the front rooms have sea views. The seaside Om Ganesh Naik Guest House (Tel: 2242957, Cell: 081049561092; Tariff: INR 500-1,500) has great views and clean rooms. Piya Guest House (Cell: 09226339309; Tariff: INR 200-600) in Arambol’s Modlo Vaddo is just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. The road to Modlo Vaddo is to the left of the Arambol Road, not far from Arambol Junction. Ave Maria (Tel: 2242137; Tariff: INR 850-1,250), right next to Piya, is also a nice hotel.

Where to eat
Double Dutch is an excellent bakery run by the Dutch couple Axel and Lucie, who have made Goa their permanent home. Their notice board Bullshit Info is the best guide to what’s happening in Arambol. Little Italy has okay food, and is located right on the beach. Laughing Buddha, also on the beach, has reasonably priced food. Sushi Cafe and Pizzeria has good food and lovely views. Rice Bowl serves authentic Chinese and Asian fare. Another nice option is Oasis, on the path to the lake. Relax Inn, also on the lake-side path, has the best Italian food in Arambol. Outrigger in Modlo Vaddo serves great seafood. Cheeky Monkey offers Continental food, while the sea-facing Residences is favoured for its ambience.